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Guru Nanak's Travels to Madhya Pradesh during first Travel

Dalvinder Singh Grewal

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Jan 3, 2010
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Guru Nanak's Travels to Madhya Pradesh during First Travel
 

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Dalvinder Singh Grewal

Writer
Historian
SPNer
Jan 3, 2010
1,360
427
80
GURU NANAK IN MADHYA PRADESH IN SECOND UDASI

Madhya Pradesh is the central state of India located between Uttar-Pradesh and Rajasthan in north, Gujrat & Rajastan in the west, Maharashtra in the south and Bihar in the west. Spread over 4,43,446 sq km, the main area is hilly and a portion jungle clad and has a population of 66,181,170 (1991 census). The capital of the state is at Bhopal. The area was ruled by the Muslim Rulers at the time of Guru Nanak’s visit to the area. The author served in this state during 1983-1985

Guru Nanak visited Madhya Pradesh twice; once during the first journey and second time during the second journey while going to South India and Sri Lanka. In his first journey he returned from Puri-Bhubneshwar in Orissa and reached Sarangarh in Madhya Pradesh. He visited Amarkantak and then came to Jabalpur. After visiting Cittarkoot near Manikpur he went to Mahiar Nagar. After visiting Chanderi, Jhansi, Gwalior, Karauli, Dhaulpur and Bharatpur, he reached Mathura. Gurdwaras at Amarkantak, Jabalpur, Gwalior and Mathura commemorate Guru Nanak’s first journey. Gurdwaras at Amarkantak, Jabalpur, Gwalior and Mathura commemorate Guru Nanak's first journey.
During his second visit, he entered Madhya Pradesh from Banswara in Rajasthan and reached Jaora in Madhya Pradesh. After this, passing through Mahidpur, he visited Ujjain, which was known as Avantika in ancient times. Nanak visited Jaora from Banswada. There are two Gurdwaras commemorating his visit. Gurdwara Dukh Niwaran Sahib, and Gurdwara Guru Nank Sindhi Sangat are both on Station Road.

During his second travel, he entered Madhya Pradesh's Banswara and reached Jaora. Jaora is a city and a municipality in Ratlam district in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. Jaora is located in the Malwa region, between Ratlam and Madsaur. It was the capital of the Jaora Princely State of Jaora before independence. During the Mourning of Muharram, thousands of people from all over the world visit the shrine of Hussain Tekri. Jains visit Jaora as a place that the Jain ascetic Rajendrasuri.

There are two city parks, Chota Baagh and Bada Baagh. The Hussain Tekri shrine on the edge of the town attracts thousands of visitors every year. Notable temples include the 900+-year-old Idol of Shree Lakshmikant Bhagwan in Shree Lakshmikant Mandir (Brahmin Gali), Ambe Mata Mandir, Jagnath Mahadev Mandir, the 200-year-old Radhakrishna Temple, Manchapuran Hanuman Temple, Jagnath Mahadev, Bada Mandir (Jain Temple), Jain Dadawadi (Shree Rajendrasurishwar ji maharaj saheb), Rogyadevi Mandir, and Sujalpur Mandir.

There are two Gurdwaras on Station Road commemorating Guru Nanak's visit to the place; one is Dujh Niwaran Gurdwara, and the other is Sindhi Gurdwara.

Jaora has a railway station on the India Railways network between Ratlam - Ajmer section. From Jaora there are direct trains for Ajmer, Chittorgarh, Udaipur, Agra, Kota, Indore, Bhopal, Jodhpur, Jaipur, Ujjain, Ratlam, Mandsaur, Neemuch, Mumbai, Vadodara, Ahmedabad.

The Mhow-Neemuch state highway passes through Jaora. Jaora is 38 km from district HQ Ratlam. Buses provide access to the surrounding area. From Jaora his next stop was at Mehidpur. Mahidpur City is a city and a municipality, near Ujjain city in Ujjain district in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. Mahidpur City takes its name from Raja Jhala Maheda Singh, who was the founder of Mahidpur. The modern town of Mahidpur is situated on the bank of river Shipra. It is located in the Malwa region. At present, the town is a tehsil place of Ujjain district. Mahidpur is situated at a distance of 56 km southwest of Ujjain town by bus and 18 km from Mahidpur-Road Railway station on Delhi-Mumbai line of Western Railway. The town is well connected by road to Ujjain, Ratlam, Nagda, and Agar. As of 2001 India census, Mahidpur had a population of 34,365. Males constitute 52% of the population and females 48%. Mahidpur has an average literacy rate of 62%, higher than the national average of 59.5%: male literacy is 70%, and female literacy is 52%. In Mahidpur, 17% of the population is under 6 years of age. Mahidpur is the place where sikhs 1st Guru, Guru Nanak Dev ji stayed for 1 night. Gurdwara Guru SinghSabha commemorates Guru Nanak's visit to the place.The place Nanak ji visited, in Mahidpur also has a samadhi under a neem tree in backyard. Locals say that a moustached snake lives in the samadhi and protects the place.

Ujjain, the city of Baba Mahakal, has also had a great relationship with Guru Nanak Dev Ji. In fact, Ujjain is one of the 6 places where Guru Nanak Devji came to Madhya Pradesh. Gurudev traveled to Girnar Mountain and came to Ujjain. They stayed there for a long time. During this time, he had satsang with the disciples of Yogiraj Bhartrihari, under the tamarind tree in front of Ramghat. It is also mentioned in the holy book of Guru Granth Sahib.
Guru Nanak Dev Ji had said three words to Bhartrihari that Guru Nanak Dev Ji had become a Jogi by renouncing all illusions. The Bhartruhari cave, which is still famous today, is where Bhartruhari used to meditate. Near that cave, a mosque was built by the Muslim society, which had a huge tamarind tree. When Guru Nanak Dev came to Ujjain for the first time, he sat under this tree. After that, he met his wife. After reaching Ujjain, Nanak Sahib and Bhai Mardana started chanting. Seeing both of them doing kirtan, Bhartruhari did not stop and he reached Nanak Sahib and started questioning Nanak Sahib that how many Jogis coming here will get salvation, in response to which Nanak Sahib told Bhartruhari 3 words which are written on part number 223 of the book of Guru Granth Sahib.

It is recorded in the Guru Granth Sahib that Guru Nanak Dev Ji had said three Vani in Ujjain, which Bhartruhari was very pleased to hear. After which he asked many questions to Nanak Sahib and cleared his doubts. This continued for a few days. Nanak Sahib stayed in Ujjain for a long time. Its history is written in the museum of Amritsar, if you are interested in knowing about it, then you can read about it in detail by going to the museum of Amritsar. Guru Nanak Dev Ji had said these three things.
Organ - 223: If a man does spiritual work, it is true. A false man cannot understand the mystery of salvation. A yogi is one who thinks of the means of union with the Lord and establishes God in his heart by ending the five vikas.
Organ - 223: For me the nature of forgiveness is fasting, good conduct and contentment. I am not suffering from any disease or ailment. I am liberated by being absorbed in the formless God.

Part 411: Man must come down from the valley of sin and bathe in the lake of virtues. God should be praised. As there is water in the sky, one should be absorbed in the Lord and contemplate the truth and drink the nectar of Maharsa.

In Ujjain he visited Ujjain which was known as Awantika in ancient times. From Ujjain, he visited Dhara Nagri, Betma, Indore, Bhopal, Hoshangabad, Onkareshwar andIn reached Burhanpur while proceeding to Sri Lanka

Ujjain:

While visiting Mhow in Madhya Pradesh, I had the privilege of visiting Gurdwaras related to Guru Nanak Dev Ji. I first visited Ujjain which was about 2 hours from Mhow where I stayed. During his second journey, while proceeding to Sri Lanka, he re-entered Madhya Pradesh from Banswada in Rajasthan and reached Jaora in Madhya Pradesh. Thereafter passing through Mehidpur, he visited Ujjain which was known as Awantika in ancient times.
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Map showing Guru Nanak travels in Madhya Pradesh


Ujjain was the seat of the viceroyalty of Ashoka, during his father's rule of Patliputra (Patna). However, it is best known as the capital of the legendary king Vikaramaditya at whose court the "nine jewels" of Hindu literature are said to have flourished. Of these the poet Kalidas was the most renowned. It was here that Shiva, the God of Destruction, vanquished a wicked demon named Tripura. Hundreds of thousands of Hindu pilgrims throng here from all corners. It is also famous for Kumbh Fair held each 12 years. Famous Hindu temples include Shri Mahkaleshwar Mandir known for Jyotarling and Shiv Shaktipeeth.

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Mention of Guru Nanak's visit is found in Janamsakhi Meharban, 'Tab...Guru Baba Nanak ji Ujjain jai niklia'1 (Guru Baba then reached Ujjain). There was the cave of Bharthari, the place where Bharthari was born and the cave of Gorakh. Many mendicants, saints, bairagis, etc. had collected at Awantika to have bath on Vaisakhi day. Guru Nanak too reached there and was invited by the followers of Bharthari for a mutualdiscussion. Near the cave exists a mosque and after the entry into the cave there is a platform. A tamarind (Imli) tree exists at the site. A platform existed ahead of the mosque too. Guru Nanak positioned himself on that platform. Guru Nanak was asked a question, "Will all these saints, mendicants, faqirs, bairagis and udasis who have come here for salvation, ever get it?"
Guru Nanak then recited a hymn to explain:
''If a man does spiritual deeds then alone is he true. What can the false man know about the secret of salvation? Such a man is yogi, who thinks of the way of union with God. He slays the five enemies and keeps clasped the true Lord to his heart. He within whose mind, God enshrines truth, realizes the worth of the way of union with Him. The coming to the pilgrimage is worth only if they realize the True Lord. Most of the world does business like hired-labour. Nobody achieves anything without the Lord. Remember always the name of The Lord.''2
All present were pleased to hear him.
Guru Nanak entered the cave and held discussions with the descendant of Bharthari also called Bharthari Hari. He said, "You are a worldly person, while we live in jungles and caves. We believe in mysticism which you dislike. I am afraid that I will not be able to look after you properly.'' guru Nanak said:
''What fear can a yogi have when that Lord is amongst trees, plants and within and without the house (pause) The yogi meditates on the Fearless and Pure Lord. Night and Day he remains awake and embraces affection for the True Name. Such a yogi is pleasing to my mind. He burns snare of death with Lord's fire. He sheds the fear of old age and death and stills his ego. He himself swims across and saves his ancestors too. He who serves the True Guru becomes a Yogi. He who remains immersed in Lord's fear becomes fearless. As is the one whom he serves, so does he himself become? God's Name makes man pure and fearless.''3
All the present then bowed before the Guru. Having the feast of true knowledge they were satisfied by Guru's explanation.
A Gurdwara known as ‘Gurdwara Guru Nanak Ghat’ commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit. It is on the bank (Ghat) of southern bank of Shipra River opposite the famous Mahakal mandir and close to Datt Akhara. One can reach it through Nar singh Ghat bridge or the bridge next to Mahakal Mandir. The gurdwara is being renovated by ‘Sant Bhuri Wale’ through voluntary labour (k{censored}wa). Tamarind tree has developed into a very large tree.

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Gurdwara Guru Nanak in the background on the bank of River

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History Board in front of Gurdwara depicting Guru Nanak's visit to Ujjain


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The tree under which Guru Nanak sat and meditated



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1.Main gate to Raja Bharthari and Gopi Chand Caves 2.Cave of Yogi Raja Bharthari 3. Cave 2 of Yogi Raja Gopi Chand

Being present at the naturally magnetic place, watching the scenic beauty around Shipra River was a real blessing. Guru Nanak came all the way from Punjab crossing thousands of miles of the burning sands of Rajasthan into this God blessed land known not only for Mahakumbh but also for its very rich history and the Hindu temp les of great reckoning. He landed in the areas of Sidhas (close to Datt Akhara of Siddhas) who were dominating the Hindu thought then. People gather in large number Mahakaleshwar Mandir to pay obeisance to Jyotarling and Shaktipeeth around Mahashivratri of 1511 AD (Bikrami 1568 Samwat) when the gathering was the largest. His meeting Bharthari Hari’s followers and having discussion on the principles of religion and methodology of meeting God is now on record in SGGS.

From Ujjain, Guru Nanak went to Dhara Nagri and Betma and reached Indore, a city on the Bhopal-Khandwa line.

Dhara Nagari (Dhar),

Giani Gian Singh in Twareekh Guru Khalsa Part 1 Guru 1 (Pub 1892 AD [2], mentions the details of Guru Nanak’s visit to Dhara Nagri (Dhar) in detail: “Having descended from Abu Hills, he reached Nakhi Teerath where number of Vaishnos lived around Vashishat Ashram. Adter having visiting Achleshwar Mahadev he entered territory of Bhils. Pacifying the vilent Bhils he reached Dhara Nagri where Gopi Chand had been the famous king”.

Gopi Chand was the nephew of King Bharthari Hari of Ujjain. As per the legend the legendry king Bharthari who ruled Ujjain during tenth century having been ditched by his beloved wife abdicated the kingship and became a yogi accepting Yog at the hands of Gorakh Nath. Guru Nanak visited the cave in which he stayed while performing Yog and held discussions with him. Gopi Chand the king of Dhara Nagri also adopted yog with him leaving his kingdom.

During the period of Guru Nanak’s visit to Dharanagri, Sikander Lodhi (1489–1517) was the king at Delhi. The local ruler at the place knew Guru Nanak when Guru Nanak was in the service of Daulat Khan Lodhi at Sultanpur Lodhi. He welcomed Guru Nanak. Guru Nanak settled in Kala Baag (black garden). The historic parts of the town are dominated by an impressive sandstone fortress on a small hill. It is thought to have been built by Muhammad bin Tughlaq, the Sultan of Delhi, probably on the site of the ancient Dhārāgiri mentioned in early sources. [3]
Dhar Fort

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Having already heard about Guru Nanak, the local people visited Guru Nanak in large number. Since the followers of Bharthari and Gopi Chand have been dominating this area, they were much disturbed by Guru Nanak’s increasing following. They came to Guru Nanak and challenged for a discussion. They insisted on their superiority of Yoga to which Guru Nanak replied through a hymn in Rag Ramkali giving out the defects in the type of yoga they have adopted and told them the qualities of true yog and guided them to follow Guru’s teachings sincerely:

ਰਾਮਕਲੀਮਹਲਾ੧॥ਛਾਦਨੁਭੋਜਨੁਮਾਗਤੁਭਾਗੈ॥ਖੁਧਿਆਦੁਸਟਜਲੈਦੁਖੁਆਗੈ॥ਗੁਰਮਤਿਨਹੀਲੀਨੀਦੁਰਮਤਿਪਤਿਖੋਈ॥ਗੁਰਮਤਿਭਗਤਿਪਾਵੈਜਨੁਕੋਈ॥੧॥ਜੋਗੀਜੁਗਤਿਸਹਜਘਰਿਵਾਸੈ॥ਏਕਦ੍ਰਿਸਟਿਏਕੋਕਰਿਦੇਖਿਆਭੀਖਿਆਭਾਇਸਬਦਿਤ੍ਰਿਪਤਾਸੈ॥੧॥ਰਹਾਉ॥ਪੰਚਬੈਲਗਡੀਆਦੇਹਧਾਰੀ॥ਰਾਮਕਲਾਨਿਬਹੈਪਤਿਸਾਰੀ॥ਧਰਤੂਟੀਗਾਡੋਸਿਰਭਾਰਿ॥ਲਕਰੀਬਿਖਰਿਜਰੀਮੰਝਭਾਰਿ॥੨॥ਗੁਰਕਾਸਬਦੁਵੀਚਾਰਿਜੋਗੀ॥ਦੁਖੁਸੁਖੁਸਮਕਰਣਾਸੋਗਬਿਓਗੀ॥ਭੁਗਤਿਨਾਮੁਗੁਰਸਬਦਿਬੀਚਾਰੀ॥ਅਸਥਿਰੁਕੰਧੁਜਪੈਨਿਰੰਕਾਰੀ॥੩॥ਸਹਜਜਗੋਟਾਬੰਧਨਤੇਛੂਟਾ॥ਕਾਮੁਕ੍ਰੋਧੁਗੁਰਸਬਦੀਲੂਟਾ॥ਮਨਮਹਿਮੁੰਦ੍ਰਾਹਰਿਗੁਰਸਰਣਾ॥ਨਾਨਕਰਾਮਭਗਤਿਜਨਤਰਣਾ॥੪॥੧੧॥ (ਪੰਨਾ੮੭੯)

Raamkali, First Mehl: He runs around, begging for clothes and food. He burns with hunger and corruption, and will suffer in the world hereafter. He does not follow the Guru’s Teachings; through his evil-mindedness, he loses his honor. Only through the Guru’s Teachings will such a person become devoted. || 1 || The way of the Yogi is to dwell in the celestial home of bliss. He looks impartially, equally upon all. He receives the charity of the Lord’s Love, and the Word of the Shabad, and so he is satisfied. || 1 || Pause || The five bulls, the senses, pull the wagon of the body around. By the Lord’s power, one’s honor is preserved. But when the axle breaks, the wagon falls and crashes. It falls apart, like a pile of logs. || 2 || Contemplate the Word of the Guru’s Shabad, Yogi. Look upon pain and pleasure as one and the same, sorrow and separation. Let your food be contemplative meditation upon the Naam, the Name of the Lord, and the Word of the Guru’s Shabad. Your wall shall be permanent, by meditating on the Formless Lord. || 3 || Wear the loin-cloth of poise, and be free of entanglements. The Guru’s Word shall release you from sexual desire and anger. In your mind, let your ear-rings be the Sanctuary of the Guru, the Lord. O Nanak, worshipping the Lord in deep devotion, the humble are carried across.|| 4 || 11 ||

Having explained what a true Yoga is and to follow their Guru’s teaching; he shamed them for not following their Guru’s teaching. He mentioned that their Guru Gopi Chand had left the worldly pleasures including his kingdom but you enjoy vast mansions left by him and do not even care for the visiting mendicants and are more eager to pick up a fight rather than to listen to him peacefully. Have some same shame and follow the footsteps of your Guru. Having listened to the Guru they fell at his feet and promised to follow the path of truth and renunciation of the evil in true terms.

Mardana enquired from the Guru as to how King Gopi Chand relinquished his kingdom. Guru Nanak replied: “Gopi Chand was the son of Birsain and the maternal grandson of Gandharab Sain. His mother Mainawati followed Yoga, hence she gave him lessons on Yoga and made him a Yogi. The area (Kala Baag) where we are seated got his ears pierced from Yogi Jalandhari Nath and obtained Yoga”.

There is no Gurdwara commemorating Guru’s visit to Dhar, however the area has lot of followers of Sikhism in this entire belt and they have constructed their own Gurdwars in the villages around. Sikligars have Gurdwaras in Surma, Bankaner, Singhana, Barwa Gandhwani, Ganwali, Bumja Hawai Patti in Chhindwara village, Pachauri in Burhanpur, Palsud, Ashwada and Ojher in District Badwani, Gandhwani Garaba, Shahpur Sadwa etc., where they have about 100 families each and in Indore and Bhopal too have their presence. Some other Gurdwaras of Sikligars and Wanjaras in Madhya Pradesh are Khargon West Nimar District,Gurdwara Betma Sahib, National Highway 59, Indore Road, Indore District, Village Maliwada, Dhar District, Dhar, Barwani District, Jhabua District, Thandla, Bhaghana, Neemuch District, Neemuch, Madhya Pradesh, Kilkipura Juna, Ujjain District, Nagda, Dhar District, Dehrisaray, Thathere Sikhs are in Janta Colony of Indore. I met number of Sikligars, Wanjaras, Satnamis, Bijnoris, and Thathere Sikhs in this entire belt of Madhya Pradesh and visited some of their Gurdwaras.
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Sikligar children of Barwa Gandhwani, District Dhar, MP
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Gurdwara Baba Dip Singh of Sikligar Sikhs Pind Bakaner Dist, Dhar Madhya Pradesh

The condition of these Sikligars and Wanjaras is very poor. They are not able to feed themselves adequately what to talk of reasonable living. Till recently none of their child went to school. Now however they are sending their children to schools but do not have fees for good schools hence have to do with the local schools only. This restricts their development in education and development as such and they remain at the lower strata of the society. Their previous profession has been making tools and weapons for the armies of the Mughals, Marathas and local chiefs. This profession was banned by the British and they are being punished for the very profession for which they have been making their living for centuries.


Wanjaras do local business and are located in Neemad, Khargaun, Narwar, Dewas, Sanawad, Ojhar, Burhanpur, Khadnar, Itarsi Kanghi Mohalla (700 families) and Nagpur Ekta Colony (around 7000 persons). Niranjanpur in Indore has 500 houses of Wanjaras; Bijnoris Sikhs migrated from UP first to Gandhi Nagar area of Bhopal, where they have around 150 families. Some of them have now shifted to Indore belt. Ujjain has 250 families of Wanjaras. The Gurdwara Guru Nanak Ghat was in progress where almost all workers were from these communities worked. The well-to-do Sikhs especially at Indore, Bhopal, Nagpur, Jabalpur and other cities of MP have been helping them but to a limited extent. SGPC and DGPC too, show their appearance through some preachers occasionally. The need however, is of a large scale effort to help them out from this milieu and to ensure that these Sikhs numbering millions (100 million?) are elevated to reasonable standard. More schools and alternative jobs are needed for them. I wrote an article about them in 1968 in Sikh Review and later wrote two pamphlets depicting their history and present plight. I have worked for them ever since hence I plead to the Global Sikhs to come forward for this noble cause of development of their brethren. I am sure Global Sikh Society will do more to ensure their development.

From Dhar (Dharanagri) Guru Nanak visited Betma. Distance between Dhar and Betma is 56 kms on highway no 47 which further leads to Indore another 38 kms and 25 kms from Mhow cantonment.

 
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Dalvinder Singh Grewal

Writer
Historian
SPNer
Jan 3, 2010
1,360
427
80
Guru Nanak in Madhya Pradesh in Second Udasi Part 2

Betma Sahib
Betma is an old town of Malwa region located at 22.68°N 75.62°E. [4] It has an average elevation of 541 metres (1774 feet) and has population of 12,529. [5] It falls in Tehsil Dipalpur of Indore district of Madhya Pradesh on Indore-Dhar Road 38 kms from Indore.
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Betma Sahib Gurudwara commemorates Guru Nanak’s visit to the place. It was visited by Guru Nanak in 1511 AD when it was under the Muslim rulers. Mughals and Holkars came to the area much later. The city of Indore too had not come into existence then. Ujjain was the key city and the religious centre in the area then. Another city was Dhar which was known as Dhara Nagri. After visiting Ujjain and Dhara Nagri, the Guru came to this place. As per the local tradition, he stayed here for six months. Guru Nanak’s footprints are preserved in the Gurdwara. During his stay in the area he kept himself attuned to the God through meditation and hymns in accompaniment of music by Bhai Mardana and held discussions with the local saints.

From Dhar (Dharanagri) Guru Nanak visited Betma. Distance between Dhar and Betma is 56 kms on highway no 47 which further leads to Indore another 38 kms and 25 kms from Mhow cantonment.

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Historically, a 1020 CE copper plate inscription of the Parmar king Bhoj (King of Ujjain) found in Betma links it to legendry king Raja Bhoj. [6]After Parmars, Muslim rulers took over and then came the Mughals. In Mughal era, Betma was a paragna under a kanungo (Hakk Dastoor 26) under Ujjain Sarkar. During Akbar’s time Thakur Dungar Singh Nigam, a Kayasth Kshtari was appointed Betma paragna Jagirdar who received the sanad and title of Kanungo from the Ujjain Sarkar under Akbar's court. Marathas took over from Mughals and the Holkers changed the revenue policy and appointed Madhorao Bhag as Betma local revenue collector. Later a Chouhan Rajput was appointed revenue agent (Ugahi Thekedar) by the agent of Holkars’ Bagh Mansabdar and Pargna Kanungo of Betma. Chouhans maintained their post of revenue agents during the British Raj. In free India it became a part of Indore District
Having been under Muslims, Mughals, Marathas and other Hindu rulers Betma has got a truly cosmopolitan culture. Places of worship of all major Indian religions are found here. In addition to the Gurdwara commemorating the visit of Guru Nanak Dev ji, ‘Aman Chaman Mata Mandir’ is of historical significance to Hindus. "Saeyad Sarkar" a Sufi Saint of village Daultabad 10 km away on Depalpur road from Betma is visited for spiritual knowledge and blessings. ‘Dargah e Isa Ji Shaheed’ is situated in Lakhera Bakhal and is of historical significance for Dawoodi Bohras.


Indore

Indore is the most populous and the largest city in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh.[7] It is the headquarters of both Indore District and Division. Indore was described by the Economic Times as the commercial capital of the state. It is also considered as an education hub of the state and first city to have campuses of both the Indian Institute of Technology and the Indian Institute of Management.[8] Located on the southern edge of Malwa Plateau, at an average altitude of 550 meters above sea level it has the highest elevation among major cities of Central India. The city is 190 km west of the state capital of Bhopal the state capital. With a census-estimated 2011 population of 1,994,397 (municipal corporation) [9][10] the Indore Metropolitan Area's population is the state's largest. The city is distributed over a land area of just 530 square kilometers making Indore the most densely populated major city in the central province.
Indore is on the Bhopal-Khandwa line. It has not come to exist during or before the visit of Guru Nanak. Indore traces its roots to its 16th century founding as a trading hub between the Deccan and Delhi. The city and its surroundings came under Hindu Maratha Empire on 18 May 1724 after Maratha Peshwa Bahi Rao I assumed the full control of Malwa. The city was later built by Rani Ahalya Bai (1765-95) the famous Holker ruler on the rivers of Sarswati and Khan. Before this it was only a small town having some Jain temples. During the days of the British Raj, Indore State was a 19 Gun Salute princely state ruled by the Maratha Holkar dynasty, until they acceded to the Union of India.[11] Indore served as the capital of the Madhya Bharat from 1950 until 1956. Indore has been selected as one of the 100 Indian cities to be developed as a smart city.[12] among the first twenty cities .[13] Indore has been elected as the cleanest city of India as per the Swachh Survekshan.[14]
Guru Nanak visited Indore in 1511 AD from Betma. Indore was not a city but a few hillocks on the banks of rivers. Guru Nanak came and settled on Khan River in Harsidhi Tola near Machhli Bazar. The area was agriculturally rich due to rivulets Sirpir, Bilawali, Piplya and Peeliakhal watering the land to keep it green. As per local legend Guru Nanak stayed in this area (now Indore) for three months and held discussions with saints in Krishanpura on Chanderbhaga River and remained in deep meditation for the remaining period. Guru Nanak visited temples around Indore and held discussions with Jainis. He had planted a tamrand (Imli) tree in the area which became a sprawling tree. A Gurdwara is now constructed in the area in Guru Nanak’s memory. This Gurdwara remained in the control of Udasis who later converted into their own property. Later in a prolonged court case the Sikhs of Indore have been able to restore the place from the Hindu family. Now a Gurdwara has been constructed at the place.
Indore is historically attached to Sikhism. It has 7 Gurdwaras. Gurdwara Imli Sahib is the historical Sikh shrine in Indore commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit. It is centrally located and beautiful devotees assure spiritual knowledge, peace and bliss here.
The Sikhs who came from Punjab during the rule of Holkars and settled in this area; constructed a Gurdwara close to tamarind tree to commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit to this place. A monumental four storeyed building of Gurdwara was later constructed in 1940 AD at the place. This tamarind tree existed till 70 years ago when the tree was cut to expand the gurdwara. A great discussion took place before cutting the tamrand tree. Since Sikhs did not believe in idol worship, it was decided that tamarind tree had become a source of worship hence be removed. A new portion of the gurdwara was constructed at the place. The name of the Gurdwara remained however Gurdwara Imli Sahib. Earlier there used to be a high mound of the height of Gurdwara. This mound was gradually washed away by the flooding river waters and is now extinct.
No trace exists of the historic tamarind tree either but Sri Guru Granth Sahib in a palanquin (palki) keeps the memory of Guru Nanak’s visit alive through regular recitation of Gurbani. The local congregation (sangat) also keeps on meditating or reciting Gurbani in its presence. This Gurdwara is at the centre of the city on famous Jawahar Road showing the expansion, extension and development of Indore city as we see it now. It is close to Municipality Office. The entire city developed around it in many kilometeres.
LIG is a residential area in indore at Agra-Bombay road, A Gurudwara is also present near LIG square also called as LIG Gurudwara. LIG Gurudwara has its own beauty. It is one of the best infrastructure of Indore in terms of devotional places. Gurudwara Topkhana Sahab is present at MG road indore.

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Gurdwara Imli Sahib Indore
Gurdwara Imli Sahib is in the centre of Indore in Rajwada area close to Municipal Committee office. The building is very impressive. It has a lift to go to various storeys. In the place of tree now Sri Guru Granth Sahib is established where continuous recitation is always in progress. All the Gurpurabs are being celebrated with great fervour and the Sikhs and non Sikhs gather in large number daily to pay obeisance at the place. Manjit Singh (9425077777, 98260 76000) President Gurdwara Indore and S. Jasbir Singh Gandhi is the Secretary (9425082677).
We reached Indore from Ujjain and paid our obeisance at the place. A four storeyed Gurdwara commemorates Guru Nanak’s visit. There used to be the tamarind till 70 years ago when to expand the gurdwara the tree was cut. Now there is no trace exists of this historic tree but Sri Guru Granth Sahib in a palanquin (palki) keep the memory of Guru Nanak alive through regular recitation of Gurbani. The local sangat also keeps on meditation or path of Japuji Sahib in its presence. Guru Nanak left Indore for Bhopal. Paying our obeisance at the sanctum sanctorum in front of Sri Guru Granth Sahib placed at the place where once Imli (tamarind) tree existed. One misses the tamarind tree, the real essence. Cutting of it is an obliteration of the evidence of Guru Nanak’s visit. The space of the Gurdwara is too small to expand. There is no parking area either. An adjoining building has been purchased for the parking site. The streets leading to the Gurdwara are also narrow. More land is needed to ensure the much needy expansion due to increasing attraction of this historical place. The library, conference room and the office are spacious however. Regular langar (free kitchen) service for everyone draws lot of people daily.

Guru Nanak left Indore for Bhopal. Bhopal is now the capital of Madhya Pradesh. Raja Bhoj is stated to be the founder of Bhopal. The grand lake built by Raja Bhoj is the key attraction. Bhopal is in Vindhayachal ranges perched on a hill feature. All trains from New Delhi to Mumbai, Hyderabad and Chennai pass through Bhopal. The then king of Bhopal was too worldly. He was acquainted with Guru Nanak at Sultanpur when Guru Nanak was the store-holder of Daulat Khan. Guru Nanak sent a message to the king about his arrival. The King replied, “I have a job at hand. I will finish this and will come over without delay.” He sent his servant with delicious food. Guru Nanak waited for him for a day.

Next day the king turned up. Guru Nanak enquired the reason for delay, “It was a financial deal which did not allow me to come yesterday. I started immediately after the job was completed.” Guru Nanak said, “It is the God who gets everything done. Man is just a play thing in his hands.” He then sang a hymn, “Ram Nam chit(u) rapai ja ka. Upjant darsan kariai taka” (Gauri Astpadia, Mahala 1, p. 228)

(At early dawn see the sight of him whose soul is imbued with the Lord’s Name. Your ill luck is that you do not meditate on the Name of pervading Lord. In every age, beneficent is my Lord master (Pause). Under Guru’s instructions, the perfect man meditates on the Lord. In his mind, the unstruck melodious bands play. The persons, who bear love to God, and Lord’s devotional service; the master mercifully preserves them. In whose heart that Lord abides; by seeing their sight peace is obtained. Amongst all the beings, the One Lord is contained. The proud perverse person, ultimately wanders in existence. He alone understands the Lords who obtains the True Guru. Stilling his ego, he receives the Guru’s word. How can the mortal know about the union of the low man with the high Lord? By Guru’s grace, and through mind’s appeasement the man meets with master’s union. I am a sinner, without merit, O my master, show goodness unto me. When the Lord becomes merciful, slave Nanak is emancipated.)
During discourses with the king, Guru Nanak was told of king’s ancestor who was affected by leprosy and then living on the rock-hill in mud cave. Guru Nanak went over to him and heard his story. Guru Nanak redeemed him and asked him to worship true Lord’s Name who will save him from such curse. The mud cave can still be seen. We visited this hut in 1985. There was no Gurdwara at the place then. A Gurdwara exists about 500 yards from the place which is said to be in the memory of Guru Gobind Singh’s visit to the place. The mud cave hut is regularly visited by devotees from all religions. A Muslim priest looks after the place.

The originality of the place is maintained. It is not like we Sikhs who construct huge Gurdwaras at the historical site and hide all the history evidence. It is high time the Sikhs learn preservation rather than destroying the original and constructing large sized showy structures by spending huge funds of devotees. It is not the money, wealth or stone structures which increase the value of the place; it is the reverence and devotion which consist of the real soul and the maintenance of the true worth of a historical object or relic.

From Bhopal Guru Nanak proceeded to Hoshangabad on the bank of Narmada river. Hoshangabad is a key railway station on Delhi-Bhopal-Mumbai line. There are numerous temples in the city which include Jagan Nath Mandir, Ram Chander Mandir, Hanuman Mandir, Mahadev Mandir and Shani Mandir. Guru Nanak visited these temples and held discussions with the religious leaders. The Guru stayed in a garden, where the ruler and the people of the area benefited from the company of Guru Nanak. A memorial in honour of Guru Nanak stands in the garden.

From Hoshangabad Guru Nanak went to visit Surya Kund and Oankareshwar. Oankareshwar also known as Mandhata is 8 Kilometres from the Omkareshwar Road railway station on the Indore- Khandwa branch line.

Omkareshwar
Omkareshwar is one of the most sacred towns situated in Madhya Pradesh on Indore-Khandwa Highway. The holy town is situated on the meeting point of two rivers- Narmada and Kaveri. The swift and deep river is the haunt of crocodiles and fishes. The rocks have a tint of green which blends beautifully with the dark green foliage and the brown and grey temples which rise in rows. Raja Mandhatri was the founder of the holy shrine who claimed descent from the Sun.
Meeting between two of these most prominent rivers of India leaves the island in the shape of Hindu symbol Om symbol hence named as such.

The holy city has two of the twelve holiest temples dedicated to Shiva, situated on an island, about 3 kilometres long in the middle of the sacred Narmada River. The two ancient shrines are Omkareshwar (whose name means "Lord of Omkaara or the Lord of the Om Sound") located in the island and Amareshwar (whose name means "Immortal lord" or "lord of the Immortals or Devas") located on the south bank of Narmada River on the mainland. Omkareshwar is a pilgrimage center for Hindus housing one of the 12 Jyotirlingas, situated on Mandhata islands in river Narmada.

The temple of Omkareshwar is situated on the Birkhala rocks and is picturesque building with a courtyard and colonnades supported by massive pillars. The original shrine Amreshwar or Manileshwar, which contains the holy Lingam dedicated to Shiva is on the southern part of the island. The original site was taken over by the jungle. The Maratha Peshwa Bala Ji Rao II tried to find and restore the shrine but could not do so and he built a new temple. When the original site was later found, a temple was built over it too and the Peshwa’s shrine retains the name of Manileshwar. On the north bank of the Narmada, a short distance away from Omkarji, are ruins of temples dedicated to Vishnu and also of Jain temples. The Jain temples stand on an eminence a little back from the river. The largest is on 5 ft. high plinth.

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Every Monday the golden idol of Lord Omkar is shown to the pilgrims and visitors with bands, drums, and priests gathering in procession, after which they go to the river to finish their worship. Temple permit required for photographing. The whole area is bounded by mountains presenting a very beautiful view. The view around the island is also serene and relaxing.

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Omkareshwar is a popular pilgrim destination, dedicated to lord Shiva in Madhya Pradesh state of Central
situated 80 km from Indore to the south in Khandwa District. It is in western part of state on the bank of holy Narmada River. The eternal god Lord Shiva is one of the three main gods of Hindus - Brahma, Vishnu & Mahesh (Shiva). Omkareshwar, called Mandhata or Shivapuri is a sacred island of Lord Shiva, situated 80 km from Indore, the financial capital of Madhya Pradesh. The island got a shape of “OM’ by the two lofty hills, divided by a valleys, ‘OM’ which is a sacred Hindu symbol, also known to be a sound from which this whole universe and living being originated. Omkareshwar is revered for Jyotirlinga in Mamaleshwar Temple.

According to its history; Parmar King Udayaditya installed 4 stone inscriptions here with some holy couplets of Shiv Mahima inscribed on these in 10th century AD. The temple then came to be known as Amaleshwar Temple. Thousands of visitors around the globe come here on Mahashivaratri to celebrate union with God. Omkareshwar is a Hindu temple, is on an island called Mandhata or Shivapuri in the Narmada River.

Bhils followed by Rajputs ruled the area in 12th and 13th century. From 1200 A.D. Muslim rule started during which the ancient temples and idols were destroyed. When Allauddin passed through this country in 1295 A.D., returning from Deccan he conquered Asirgarh (near Burhanpur) near Omkareshwar. Later Ghouri and Aurangzeb devastated yhe area and these temples. The remains of temples and structures around Mandhata in plenty are witness of this devastation. The hills are covered with remnants of habitations built in stones (Basalt and yellow Sand-stone) without cement.
Mamaleshwar is one of the 12 Jyotirlingas spread over India. Also called Amakeshwar, the temple it is a protected ancient moment on the bank of holy Narmada River on opposite bank of Omkareshwar temple. Often people consider Omkareshwar temple as Jyotirlinga temple but it is Mamaleshwar temple in Omkareshwar town having the actual Jyotirlinga. [15]

In fairs and festivals like Maha-shivratri, Diwali, Dussehra, Navratra and Vasant Panchami local people gather here in large numbers to celebrate. Most of the visitors are from nearby townships and cities like Indore, Khandwa, Ujjain, Dhar etc. Visitors also do boating and shopping and enjoy night lighting arrangement in temples and streets.

The airports closest to Omkareshwar are Indore (77km) and Ujjain (133km). The nearest railway station is 12 km away, but it is not on the mainline and is not connected to the major cities. The nearest major railway station is Indore (77 km). A bus can be boarded from Ujjain, Indore or Khandwa. Distance of Omkareshwar from Indore and Maheshwar is 80 kms, Mandu and Ujjain is 145 kms, Burhanpur 125 Kms and Bhopal 280 kms. It is about 12 miles (20 km) from Mortakka in Madhya Pradesh.

Omkareshwar was Visited by Guru Nanak Dev Ji during his itinerary (udasi) to south. Guru Nanak’s visited all the temples around. There was a discourse between Guru Nanak and the Pundit (Priest) of Omkareshwar temple which was compuled by Guru Nanak as hymn (bani) Dhakhni Ongkar. The study of the first stanza of this bani clearly indicates that Guru Nanak spoke about the philosophy of the Pundit of Omkar Temple. In rest of the Bani (from stanza 2 to 54) Guru Nanak cleared the confusion of the Pundit about nature and attributes of God.


The Idol of Shiva or Linga of Shiva is considered as ‘Ekamkaar (Omkar) by the Pundits of Omkareshwar Temple. The Pundit also equated ‘Omkar’ to OM, which represents Trinity of God. This was not the philosophy of Guru Nanak. Guru Nanak explained to the Pundit that there is no Trinity (Brahma, Vishnu, and Shiva) of God to which the word, ‘Oankar’ or ‘Omkar’, is implied. Guru Nanak explained to the Pundit that God is ‘One and the Only One’. He does not come into anthropomorphic form (Ajuni); and no specific/descriptive name can be coined for God since God is an ‘Eternal Entity’ and ineffable.Bani Dakhni Omkar was composed by Guru Nanak to explain to the Pundit of Omkar Temple that God cannot be represented as Omkar since it originated from OM – The Trinity: Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva.

The Gurdwara is Situated on the bank of the river Narmada in Omkareshwar. The Phone of Gurdwara priest (granthi) is 07280271330, Mobile : 9827714749 fo future contact.


The Gurmukhi and the English transliteration of three stanzas of bani Dakhni Oankaar (out of the 54 stanzas in SGGS (pp. 929-930)) is given next:

ਰਾਮਕਲੀ ਮਹਲਾ 1 ਦਖਣੀ ਓਅੰਕਾਰੁ ੴ ਸਤਿਗੁਰ ਪ੍ਰਸਾਦਿ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਬ੍ਰਹਮਾ ਉਤਪਤਿ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰੁ ਕੀਆ ਜਿਨਿ ਚਿਤਿ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਸੈਲ ਜੁਗ ਭਏ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਬੇਦ ਨਿਰਮਏ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਸਬਦਿ ਉਧਰੇ ॥ ਓਅੰਕਾਰਿ ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਤਰੇ ॥ ਓਨਮ ਅਖਰ ਸੁਣਹੁ ਬੀਚਾਰੁ ॥ ਓਨਮ ਅਖਰੁ ਤ੍ਰਿਭਵਣ ਸਾਰੁ ॥ 1 ॥ ਸੁਣਿ ਪਾਡੇ ਕਿਆ ਲਿਖਹੁ ਜੰਜਾਲਾ ॥ ਲਿਖੁ ਰਾਮ ਨਾਮ ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਗੋਪਾਲਾ ॥ 1 ॥ ਰਹਾਉ ॥ ਸਸੈ ਸਭੁ ਜਗੁ ਸਹਜਿ ਉਪਾਇਆ ਤੀਨਿ ਭਵਨ ਇਕ ਜੋਤੀ ॥ ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਵਸਤੁ ਪਰਾਪਤਿ ਹੋਵੈ ਚੁਣਿ ਲੈ ਮਾਣਕ ਮੋਤੀ ॥ ਸਮਝੈ ਸੂਝੈ ਪੜਿ ਪੜਿ ਬੂਝੈ ਅੰਤਿ ਨਿਰੰਤਰਿ ਸਾਚਾ ॥ ਗੁਰਮੁਖਿ ਦੇਖੈ ਸਾਚੁ ਸਮਾਲੇ ਬਿਨੁ ਸਾਚੇ ਜਗੁ ਕਾਚਾ ॥ 2 ॥ ਧਧੈ ਧਰਮੁ ਧਰੇ ਧਰਮਾ ਪੁਰਿ ਗੁਣਕਾਰੀ ਮਨੁ ਧੀਰਾ ॥ ਧਧੈ ਧੂਲਿ ਪੜੈ ਮੁਖਿ ਮਸਤਕਿ ਕੰਚਨ ਭਏ ਮਨੂਰਾ ॥ ਧਨੁ ਧਰਣੀਧਰੁ ਆਪਿ ਅਜੋਨੀ ਤੋਲਿ ਬੋਲਿ ਸਚੁ ਪੂਰਾ ॥ ਕਰਤੇ ਕੀ ਮਿਤਿ ਕਰਤਾ ਜਾਣੈ ਕੈ ਜਾਣੈ ਗੁਰੁ ਸੂਰਾ ॥ 3 ॥

Raamkalee, First Mehl, Dakhanee, Ongkaar: One Universal Creator God. By The Grace Of The True Guru: From Ongkaar, the One Universal Creator God, Brahma was created. He kept Ongkaar in his consciousness. From Ongkaar, the mountains and the ages were created. Ongkaar created the Vedas.
Ongkaar saves the world through the Shabad. Ongkaar saves the Gurmukhs. Listen to the Message of the Universal, Imperishable Creator Lord. The Universal, Imperishable Creator Lord is the essence of the three worlds. || 1 || Listen, O Pandit, O religious scholar, why are you writing about worldly debates? As Gurmukh, write only the Name of the Lord, the Lord of the World. || 1 || Pause || Sassa: He created the entire universe with ease; His One Light pervades the three worlds. Become Gurmukh, and obtain the real thing; gather the gems and pearls. If one understands, realizes and comprehends what he reads and studies, in the end he shall realize that the True Lord dwells deep within his nucleus. The Gurmukh sees and contemplates the True Lord; without the True Lord, the world is false. || 2 || Dhadha: Those who enshrine Dharmic faith and dwell in the City of Dharma are worthy; their minds are steadfast and stable. Dhadha: If the dust of their feet touches one’s face and forehead, he is transformed from iron into gold. Blessed is the Support of the Earth; He Himself is not born; His measure and speech are perfect and True. Only the Creator Himself knows His own extent; He alone knows the Brave Guru.|| 3 ||


Sohagpur.

Guru Nanak’s melodious songs attracted the attention of the inhabitants who used to worship Shani- a god who rides on a vulture and is generally considered “malefic among malefic”. He was much dreaded in the area. All the troubles and calamities are traced to him. The people worship Shani to avoid harm. The Guru advised them not to fear anyone other than God as there was no one stronger than Him in the world. Whatever the God wants to be done, is done. No one can change His Will. All the devas and demons fear Him, so one must worship Him and none else.

Guru Nanak went next to Burhanpur. Burhanpur, an old walled town in Khandwa district of Madhaya Pradesh, is one of the banks of Tapti River, four kilometers from Burhanpur railway station on the Delhi-Bhopal-Itarsi-Bombay line. Guru Nanak Dev and Guru Gobind Singh visited Burhanpur. One of Bhai Gurdas’s vars points of the existence of Sikh Sangat here in early seventeenth century. Gurdwara commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit is located on the bank of Rapti River near the grave of Nur Jehan. Later during the eighteenth century, Hathhi Singh son of Mata Sundari’s adopted son Ajit singh lived here. There are now two historical Gurdwaras at Burhanpur. Gurdwara Rajghat Sangat Pahili Patshahi on the river bank dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev is in a single room and is looked after by a Nihang Singh who lives in a similar room close by.

Gurdwara Bari Sangat about two furlongs northwest of the walled city is much more flourishing and frequented. It marks the site where Guru Gobind Singh, travelling to the south with the Emperor Bahadur Shah stayed in May-June 1908. Later Hathi Singh made his abode here. This Gurdwara has 16 acres of land attached to it. Guru Granth Sahib is seated on a marble canopied seat in the middle of a spacious rectangular hall with high ceiling. This has gallery at mid height on three sides. Above the hall, over the sanctum, are two floors of square rooms with domed pavilion on top. An old hand written copy of Guru Granth Sahib is preserved in this Gurdwara. Its pages has beautifully drawn border in multicolour.

From Burhanpur Guru Nanak entered Maharashtra. Continuing his journey further, the Guru went through Panchmarhi, Narsinghpur, Chhindwara, Seoni, Balaghat, Tumsar etc. and reached Ramtek, about 24 miles north of Nagpur.

References

1 Janamsakhi Meharban, in Janam Sakhi Prampara ed. Dr. Kirpal Singh Janam Sikh Prampra, p.139
2 Giani Gian Singh in Twareekh Guru Khalsa Part 1 Guru 1 (Pub 1892 AD) (reprint Bhasha Vibhag 1970 AD, pp. 148-150)
3. K. K. Lele, in Dikshit, Pārijātamañjarī, p. xxi, n. 1,
4. Falling Rain Genomics, Inc - Betma:
5. "Census of India 2001: Data from the 2001 Census, including cities, villages and towns (Provisional)". Census Commission of India.
6. Trivedi, Harihar Vitthal (1991), Inscriptions of the Paramāras, Chandēllas, Kachchapaghātas, and two minor dynasties, Archeological Survey of India, p. 35. K. K. Lele, in Dikshit, Pārijātamañjarī, p. xxi, n. 1,
7. List of cities in Madhya Pradesh by population
8. How Indore's unique IIT-IIM blend is spurring entrepreneurship".
9. District Census Handbook, Indore
10 Presentation on Towns and Urban Agglomerations". Census of India 2011. Archived from the original on 14 March 2016. Retrieved 2016-03-13.
11. Report on the Administration of Holkar State for 1944 - Indore (India) - Google Books. Books.google.co.in. Retrieved 2014-04-04.
12. Why only 98 cities instead of 100 announced: All questions answered about smart cities project". 28 August 2015. Retrieved 25 November 2016.
13. List of first 20 smart cities under Smart Cities Mission". The Hindu. Retrieved February 16, 2016.
14. Swachh Survekshan 2017 cleanest cities. ndtv.com. Retrieved 5 May 2017.
15. Caturvedi, Jyoti. (2006), Shiv Purana (First ed.), New Delhi: Diamond Pocket Books (P) Ltd, ISBN 81-7182-721-7 Shri Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga

 
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Guru Nanak's Travels to Madhya Pradesh during First Travel
Guru Nanak's Travels to Madhya Pradesh during First Travel
MADHYA PARDESH


Return Journey

During his first Udasi, he traveled to the east. Giving the route of Journey of Guru Nanak in first journey from Jagananth Puri onwards some researchers like Dr. Fauza Singh Kirpal Singh [1] Prof Sahib Singh [2] and Dr Tarlochan Singh [3] give the route to Rameshwaram, Sri Lanka and return via Kerala, Karnatka etc., while most of the researchers like Bhai Santokh Singh,[4] Giani Gian Singh,[5] Lal Singh Sangrur [6] and Dr Surinder Singh Kohli [7] give the return journey through Madhya Pradesh, Rajasthan, Haryana to Punjab visiting Khorda, Raja-Ranapour, Sarnngarh, Subhagpur, Kohkantak in Vindhyachal, Kapil Muni Ashram, Jabalpur, Chitarkut, Maiharnagar, Manikpur, Tekri of Dattatreya, Fardiwara, Panna district, Hilly tracts of Saugar and Jhansi districts, Chanderi, Jhalapattan, Bharatpur (Rajsthan), Rewari, Gurgaon, Jhajar, Dojana, Karoli, Bahaura, Jind, Samalpur, Bhagalpur Cheeka (20 km from Patiala), Kharauti, Kamalpur (near Dirba), Chhitanwala, Malerkotla, Qadirabad (Bhasaur), Akoi Sahib, Mangwal (Sangrur district) Jagraon, Tihada, Sultanpur.









Amarkantak


Guru Nanak came to Amarkantak following Mahanadi. Amarkantak also called "Teerthraj" (the king of pilgrimages), is a pilgrim town in Madhya Pradesh, India. A unique natural heritage area it is the meeting point of the Vindhyas and the Satpuras with the Maikal Hills being the fulcrum. It has Nagar Panchayat in Anupur district.. Herefrom, the Narmada River, the Son River and Johila River emerge.[8] Popular Indian Mystic and Poet Kabir is said to have meditated on Kabir Chabutra, also called the platform of Kabir. Amarkantak is a combination of two Sanskrit words, amar (immortal) and kantak (obstruction). The poet Kalidas has mentioned it as Amrakuta, which later became Amarkantak.[9] It is naturally so rich that Kapil Muni established its asharam and Bhagat Kabir mEditated here.



Amarkantak is located at 22.67°N 81.75°E. It has an average elevation of 1048 metres (3438 ft). Roads running through Rewa, Shahdol, Anupur, Jabalpur, Katni and Pendra connect it. It is situated on the Mailkal Hills at the meeting point of the Vidya and Satpura ranges ; 522 km from SE of Bhopal, 232 km SE of Jabalpur. The nearest railway stations are Anupur and Pendra Road 43 km via Keonchi connecting to Delhi and only 28 km via Jwaleshwar. The nearest airport is Dumna Jabalpur airport in the city of Jabalpur (240 km) having daily flight service to Delhi and Mumbai. [10][11]

Narmada River originates at Narmada Udgam complex of shrines. In this area Narmada is given the same status as Ganga and Sarswati. The ancient temples Karna Matha temples are of Kalachuri period. These are in the south of Narmada kund. These were built by Kalachuri Maharaja Karnadeva (1041–1073 AD) of Jabalpur. [9] There is an ancient kund which remains full of bathing devotees. It is surrounded by the Narmada temples made in 18th century by Bhosle kings of Nagpur.

Another group of shrines is a km distance in Mai ki Bagiya where the water of the kund originates from feet of Narmada.






Meeting Kabir

Guru Nanak is stated to have met Bhagat Kabir at this location. Though Bhagat Kabir belonged to Varanasi, Guru Nanak could not meet him there as Kabir was meditating at Amarkantak. Kabir Chabutra is the place where Bhagat Kabir was meditating and where Guru Nanak met him. Gyani Gian Singh quotes Dharam Das stating that Bhagat Kabir met him in village Pusa near Raghunathpura according to his Pothi Nanak Parbodh [12]. They both held discussions on religion and the situation around. They discussed about the existence of God and soul and the role of the being in society. They were together for seven days.[13]

Bhagat Kabir was born in Benaras in 1398 AD. As per one story he was born into a Muslim family but due to the dominant Hindu culture in the area he was quite atuned to it. It is also said that he was found floating on a lotus leaf in a tank in Benaras by a Muslim weaver. The weaver took the vulnerable child under his care and following the traditional manner, gave him the name of 'Kabir', meaning 'the great one'. Even at a young age, Kabir displayed enormous spiritual talent. He believed that human beings are equal and being one with God is the ultimate aim of every individual. He wrote verses mainly spiritual and the collections contain over 500 verses by this great saint. These verses or dohas are still read by people with awe and admiration.

He became a disciple of Ramanand by proxy as he being a Muslim, it was next to impossible for him to get initiation from a Hindu. So, he took recourse to a trick. Ramanand daily went to the bathing ghat for his pre-dawn ritual ablutions. Kabir lay on the steps of the ghat in such a way that Ramanand stepped on him. Shocked at this incident, he chanted 'Rama! Rama!'. Kabir said that since he had received teachings from him, in the form of the words 'Rama! Rama!', he was Ramanand's disciple. Impressed with the intelligence of Kabir, Ramanand took him as his disciple. Although Kabir is often depicted in modern times as a harmonizer of Hindu and Muslim belief and practice, it would be more accurate to say that he was equally critical of both, often conceiving them as parallel to one another in their misguided ways. In his view, the mindless, repetitious, prideful habit of declaiming scripture could be visited alike on the sacred Hindu texts, the Vedas, or the Islamic holy book, the Qur’an; the religious authorities doing so could be Brahmans or qāḍīs (judges); meaningless rites of initiation could focus either on the sacred thread or on circumcision. What really counted, for Kabir, was utter fidelity to the one deathless truth of life, which he associated equally with the designations Allah and Ram—the latter understood as a general Hindu name for the divine, not the hero of the Ramayana. Kabir’s principal media of communication were songs called padas and rhymed couplets (dohas) sometimes called “words” (shabdas) or “witnesses” (sakhis). A number of those couplets, and others attributed to Kabir since his death, have come to be commonly used by speakers of north Indian languages. The hallmark of Kabir's works consists of his two line couplets, known as the 'Kabir ke Dohe'. The Dohas reflect the deep philosophical thinking of the poet saint.




Kabir’s poetic personality has been variously defined by the religious traditions that revere him, and the same can be said for his hagiography. For Sikhs his verses in Sri Guru Granth Sahib are considered as the guiding lights as these relate to the soul of Sikh spiritualism. Muslims place him in Sufi (mystical) lineages, and for Hindus he becomes a Vaishnavite (devotee of the god Vishnu) with Universalist leanings. But when one goes back to the poetry that can most reliably be attributed to Kabir, only two aspects of his life emerge as truly certain: he lived most of his life in Banaras (now Varanasi), and he was a weaver (julaha), one of a low-ranked caste that had become largely Muslim in Kabir’s time. His humble social station and his own combative reaction to any who would regard it as such have contributed to his celebrity among various other religious movements and helped shape the Kabir Panth, a sect found across northern and central India that draws its members especially, but not exclusively, from the Dalits (formerly known as untouchables). The Kabir Panth regards Kabir as its principal guru or even as a divinity—truth incarnate. The broad range of traditions on which Kabir has had an impact is testimony to his massive authority, even for those whose beliefs and practices he criticized so unsparingly. From early on, his presence in anthologies of North Indian bhakti (devotional) poetry is remarkable. [14]

Saint Kabir believed in the Vedantic concepts of atman. He always advocated the Impersonal Aspect of God (Nirguna) and therefore, was against idol worship. As per his view, all human beings are equal and the societal caste system that is so widely prevalent in our country is fallacious. He said that true guru is the one who can be attained through direct experience. The common ways of realizing God, like chanting, austerities, etc, are worthless.e died in 1518 at Mag-har, now in Pakistan. [15]


Bhagat Kabir met Guru Nanak at this place in Amarkantank

People of this area worshipped lightening considering it all powerful, but the Guru forbade from such a practice laying stress on remembering Divine Name whose power works in all deities and forces. The king of the area Raja Mainpal was highly impressed by the instructions of the Guru and became his disciple. Here the Guru met several saints and divines before proceeding to Jabalpur.[16] Gyani Gian Singh and Dr Surinder Singh Kohli mention that this was the place linked to Kauda cannibal episode. However the Janamsakhi walait Wali and Janamsakhi Bhai Bala do not support this as Kauda episode occurred in an island in sea. Amarkantak is no island but is located in Vindhyachal mountain range in Central India.







Gurdwara Sri Guru Nanak Devji Amarkantak

To commemorate his visit to Amarkantak a Gurudwara is constructed on the right side bank of Narmada River in Amarkantak city. Nearest Railway Station is "Pendra Road." The gurdwara is being developed into a large complex.

Kapildhara

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Guru Nanak proceeded from Amarkantak to Kapil Muni Asharam. It is about 7 km away towards the western edges of the plateau which lies next to the beautiful Kapildhara and dudhdhara falls. Water of Narmada falls 70 feet down of the sheer rock. Enjoying the beautiful scence of mountain chain and green trees and fruits Mardana was very much pleased. The local people came bringing all types of fruits and enquired the background of Guru Nanak from Mardana. They were pleased to know about the background as some of it was already heard by them. Guruji sang hymns in ecstasy which bewitched them further. They were earlier worshipping Kapil Dev but after coming in contact with Guru Nanak they became the followers of Guru Nanak. Guru Nanak stayed there for 15 days.[17]



References


[1] Drs., Fauja Singh Kirpal Singh, Atlas of Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjabi University, Patiala

[2] Prof Sahib Singh

[3] Dr Tarlochan Singh

[4] Bhai Santokh Singh

[5] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part1

[6] Lal Singh Sangrur, twareekh Guru Khalsa, Lahore Book Shop, Ludhiana

[7] Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University, Chandigarh

[8]."Kabir Chabutra". C.P.R. Environmental Education Centre

[9]. Bhattacharyya, P.K. 1977, Historial Geography of Madhya Pradesh from Earlier Records, Motilal Banarsidass, p. 76

[10]. http://www.spicejet.com/newspage.aspx?strNews=Flights_Jabalpur

[11]. "Amarkantak PinCode". citypincode.in. Retrieved 2014-03-10.

[12]Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa Guru 1, Part 1, p. 105.

[13] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa Guru 1, Part 1,p.106

[14]Kabir | Birth, Poetry, Religion, & Facts | Britannica.

[15] hhttp://www.iloveindia.com/spirituality/gurus/kabir.html#jmvzhFiUx8TJgTpy.99

[16] Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of guru Nanak, p.63

[17] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, p.131)

Suhagpur:

Guru Nanak settled for some time on a hill feature near village Suhagpur enjoying the nature’s bounty around. Soomeone died in the village and an old lady came crying to the Guru for doing something to his son. Guru Nanak sang a hymn in Assa Mahla 1. (p.357)

Aasaa, First Mehl: No one is anyone else’s son and no one is anyone else’s mother. Through false attachments, people wander around in doubt. O My Lord and Master, I am created by You. If You give it to me, I will chant Your Name. That person who is filled with all sorts of sins may pray at the Lord’s Door, but he is forgiven only when the Lord so wills. By Guru’s Grace, evil-mindedness is destroyed. Wherever I look, there I find the One Lord. Says Nanak, if one comes to such an understanding, then he is absorbed into the Truest of the True.

Listening to this hymn everyone fell at Guru Nanak’s feet. These people used to worship Chhanichhar Devta as the salvager and the problem solver. Guru Nanak questioned as to why do you do so. A Pandit told the following connected background: There used to be a king name Surajwhose generation call themselves as Suraj Bansi Chhatri. He had eight sons. The youngest one was the son of queen second in line. His name was Chhanichar and he was too dark and was too lazy. Except him all were married. His mother used vermillion to make him yellowish so that he could not be married, but still no one married him. On the death of the king the queen got immolated (sati). All his brothers shared the food with him. His sisters-in-law started calling him eater of borrowed food (satnaja eater). They gave him oil in place of ghee, iron ornaments in place of golden ornaments, torn clothes to wear and vermillion and oil to use on his face.Using all this, he remained attuned to God. His words turn out to be truth and the people used to worship him. Even after his death he is being worshipped the same way.”

Baba said, “He is being worshipped because he regularly recited the Divine Name. You should meditate on God who gave him all power. You must not worship bodily form of a man who himself could not live and died. He had the worst of foods, wore the worst dress and did not have powers to get better for himself. What can you expect better from him? You must worship All Powerful God, who gives everything to everyone in this world. Hearing to the True message of Guru Nanak; the King Brihatpal and all the local people started reciting Divine Name leaving the worship of Chhaninchar. Guru Nanak went back to Amarkantak wherefrom he proceeded to Jabalpur.

Gurudwara Gwari Ghat Sahib – Jabalpur


Jabalpur is known for its picturesque marble rock formations (Bhedaghat) on the banks of the river Narmada, Dhuwandhar since the water droplets at the fall go above in concentrated mass and create illusion of vapors.

Gurdwara Gwari Ghat Saheb is located alongside the river Narmada in the city of Jabalpur at Coordinates: 23�6'12"N 79�55'30"E. Located almost dead center in India the Gurdwara is surrounded with a very picturesque setting. It is at a famous stepped embankment (a ghat) known as Gwarighat. During his return trip in first Udasi Guru Nanak and his companions Bhai Bala and Mardana walked along the Northeast side of the River Narmada until they reached Gwarighat near present day Jabalpur where they crossed the river.

Gyani Gian Singh [1], the renowned poet has described the crossing of the Narmada river in his 'Panth Parkash': After blessing Vindhyachal, river Narmada was crossed, Jabalpur and Chitrakoot and Rikhanpur were blessed. The 'Panth Parkash' also records that this is where Guru Nanak crossed the Narmada River to give sermons to Sarbang Rishi. From ancient times the old road from Jabalpur to Nagpur passed through Gwarighat. Even now there is no other dock in Jabalpur where the Narmada could be crossed. Satbir Singh and the writers of the old Janam Sakhis (witness accounts of lives of Guru Nanak and other Gurus) have also mentioned the blessing, preaching and reforming of several thugs and criminals operating along the Narmada river by Guru Nanak.

Gurdwara Gwarighat is on the picturesque South bank of river Narmada. For a long time Sant Tulsa Singh served (did Seva) at this hallowed site associated with Guru Nanak. After Sant Tulsa Singh passed away the Sikh sangat (congregation) of Jabalpur constituted a committee to look after the site. The Gurdwara complex includes a Guru ka Langar, a serai with rooms for pilgrims and travelers to stay, a small museum with paintings to explain the history of Sikhi and a Homoeopathic dispensary to provide free medical care for the sick and infirm. Every visitor and traveler is cared for lovingly.Guruparab (religious anniversaries and events):

The historic Guruparab of Hola Mahlla (Holi) is celebrated here with great �clat and pomp. Days before the event people start to converge here from far off places with great enthusiasm. The parkash Utsav (Birth anniversary) of Guru AmarDas ji is celebrated with great Devotion. Every Sunday congregation Divan is organized after Akhand Patth Bhog. Every week numerous Devout Sikhs and others come here to listen to the divine enlightening message and wisdom of Guru Granth Sahib.





GURDWARA GWARIGHAT JABBALPUR

During his return trip Guru Nanak and his companions walked along the Northeast side of the River Narmada until they reached Gwarighat near present day Jabalpur where they crossed the river. Gurdwara Gwari Ghat Saheb is located at Gwarighat which is a famous stepped embankment (a ghat) alongside the river Narmada in the city of Jabalpur in Madhya Pradesh, India at Coordinates: 23°6'12"N 79°55'30"E. The Gurdwara is surrounded with a very picturesque setting.

Giani Gian Singh [10], the renowned poet has described the crossing of the Narmada river in his ‘Panth Parkash. ’ Gurdwara Gwarighat is on the picturesque South bank of the river. For a long time Sant Tulsa Singh served (did Seva) at this hallowed site associated with Guru Nanak. After Sant Tulsa Singh passed away the Sikh sangat (congregation) of Jabalpur constituted a committee to look after the site. The Gurdwara complex includes a Guru ka Langar, a serai with rooms for pilgrims and travelers to stay, a small museum with paintings to explain the history of Sikhi and a Homoeopathic dispensary to provide free medical care for the sick and infirm. Every visitor and traveler is cared for lovingly. The 'Panth Parkash' also records that this is where Guru Nanak crossed the Narmada River to give sermons to Sarbang Rishi. From ancient times the old road from Jabalpur to Nagpur passed through Gwarighat. Even now there is no other dock in Jabalpur where the Narmada could be crossed. Satbir Singh and the writers of the old Janam Sakhis (witness accounts of lives of Guru Nanak and other Gurus) have also mentioned the blessing, preaching and reforming of several thugs and criminals operating along the Narmada river by Guru Nanak.

Guruparab (religious anniversaries and events): The historic Guruparab of Hola Mahlla (Holi) is celebrated here with great éclat and pomp. Days before the event people start to converge here from far off places with great enthusiasm. The parkash Utsav (Birth anniversary) of Guru Amardas ji is celebrated with great devotion. Every Sunday congregation Divan is organized after Akhand Patth Bhog. Every week numerous devout Sikhs and others come here to listen to the divine enlightening message and wisdom of Guru Granth Sahib. Jabalpur is also famous for its eroded volcanic rock formations called, The Balancing Rocks of Jabalpur. ‘The Marble Rocks' a gorge on the Narmada River where the river narrows to a width of 10 meters carving through a large area of white marble. There are quarries near here from which marble is exported to sites all over India. Dhuandhar waterfall is a major tourist attraction.





Map to Gurdwara Gwari Ghat Saheb

Jabalpur has a modern up to date airport. Regular flight services, as well as chartered flights are available. Air Deccan provides regular service to Delhi-Bhopal-Jabalpur. Kingfisher Airlines runs daily flights from Jabalpur to Indore and Mumbai. Jabalpur is well connected to Nagpur, Bhopal, Allahabad and Jaipur by highway systems making motoring easy as well. Indian Airlines plans a Delhi-Jabalpur route. It is also well connected with fast trains from Ahmedabad, New Delhi, Mumbai, Bangalore, Bhopal, Chennai, Howrah, Jaipur, Kota, Lucknow, Nagpur and Patna. From Jabalpur both highways and a narrow guage railway, which can be crowded at times, lead to Gwari Ghat. The train station is across the river from the Gurdwara. Ferries cross the river and travel as well to the local 'Marble Rocks' area.



References


Bhai Jasbir Singh, Sri Darbar Sahib – Amritsar / English rendition by Kamaljeet Singh / Publisher: Gurudwara Prabandhak Committee / Gwarighat, Jabalpur, MP India

[1] Fauja Singh Kirpal Singh, Atlas of Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjabi University Patiala,

[2] Sahib Singh Prof. 1969, Jeevan Birtant Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Amritsar, Singh Brothers, 5th edn1984,

[3] Trilochan Singh (Dr.), Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak Dev, Delhi Gurdwara Parbandhak Board

[4] Santokh Singh Bhai, Suraj Parkash,

[5] Gian Singh Giani, Twareekh Guru Khalsa Part I, Patiala Bhasha Vibhag,

[6] Lal Singh Sangrur, (Giani), 1940,Guru Khalsa Twarikh, Ludhiana, Lahore Book shop, 1955, 3rd edn

[7] Surinder Singh Kohli (Dr), 1978, Travels of Guru Nanak, Chandigarh, Punjab University, (2nd edn),

[8] Giani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa part I

[9] Surinder Singh Kohli, 1978, Travels of Guru Nanak

[10] Giani Gian Singh, 1970, Panth Parkash', Patiala, Bhasha Vibhag, Punjab.

[11] Gurdwara Gwari Ghat Saheb - SikhiWiki, free Sikh encyclopedia.

Maihar



From Jabalpur Guru Nanak reached Maihar while proceeding to Chitarkoot. Maihar is a city and municipality in Satna district in the Indian state of Madhya Pradesh. It is said that when lord Shiva was carrying the body of the dead mother goddess (Mai in Hindi) Sati, her necklace (har in Hindi) fell at this place and hence the name 'Maihar' (Maihar = Mai+Har, meaning the 'necklace of mother').[1]

The legend that is supposed to be the reason for the existence of the temple starts with the Devi Sati and Lords Shiva who got married despite the objection of father of the Goddess - Daksha. Dejected by the marriage, Daksha planned a great Yagya to bring insult to Lord Shiva by not inviting Him. The act infuriated the Goddess who sacrificed herself in the holy fire. Upon getting the news of Her death, Lord Shiva brought His anger upon the world destroying anything and everything He met meanwhile carrying dead body of the Goddess on his back. To stop Him, Lord Vishnu cut the body into 52 pieces that fell at different parts of India where 52 Shakti Peethas (shrines) could now be found. Maihar is one of those 52 shrines where necklace (known as 'har' in Hindi) of the Goddess ('Mai'= mother) fell. Sharda is just another of Her many names.https://www.tourmyindia.com/pilgrimage/maihar-devi-temple.html

Maihar is located at 24.27°N 80.75°E.[3] It has an average elevation of 367 metres (1204 ft). Maihar city is known for the Maa Sharda Devi temple (around of 502 A.D.), situated at the top of Trikoota hill which is around 5 km from the railway station. There are 1063 steps to reach the top of the hill. Golamath Temple is dedicated to lord Shiva. This east facing Pancharathi temple is built in Nagara style and has been built during Kalchuri period (10th-11th century A.D.). Other temples are Badi Maai Temple, Oila Temple, Alha Temple and Bada Akhada Temple. Pannikhoh Cave and Purva Fall are other attractions.The people of Maihar believe that Alha is still alive and comes at 4 am in the morning to worship the Goddess Sharda. According to the local people of Maihar, the warriors Alha and Udal, who fought war with Prithvi Raj Chauhan, were very strong followers of Sharda Devi and were the first ones to visit the goddess in this remote forest. They called the mother goddess by the name 'Sharda Mai', and henceforth she became popular as 'Mata Sharda Mai'. Alha worshiped for 12 years and got the amaratva with the blessings of Sharda Devi. Behind the temple and downhill is Alha Pond. At a distance of 2 km from this pond is situated an 'akhara' (wrestling ring) where Alha and Udal used to practice kushti (wrestling).



Trikutta Hill with Mai Sharda mandir at the top




When Guru Nanak visited the town it was a small town before it became a princely state capital. It was close to the area of Gosain faqirs and centre of Jangams and Datatreya Tekri visited by Gyani Gianb singh later. They used to worship Mahadev as God. (Gyani Gian Singh, p. 132). Guru Nanak sang the following hymn in Maru Rag to explain that there is only One God of all and not any other God. All others are at His command. Only God should be remembered and no one else. They must not worship anyother gods or their idols. While remembering Him they must get tuned to His Name and get detached from worldly attachments and must not worship idols who will not bestow with any worldly achievement. “Maya mui n man mua sar(u) lahree mai mat(u)’ (p.992)

Maya is not conquered, and the mind is not subdued; the waves of desire in the world-ocean are intoxicating wine. The boat crosses over the water, carrying the true merchandise. The jewel within the mind subdues the mind; attached to the Truth, it is not broken. The king is seated upon the throne, imbued with the Fear of God and the five qualities. O Baba, do not see your True Lord and Master as being far away. He is the Light of all, the Life of the world; The True Lord writes His Inscription on each and every head. Brahma and Vishnu, the Rishis and the silent sages, Shiva and Indra, penitents and beggars — whoever obeys the Hukam of the Lord’s Command, looks beautiful in the Court of the True Lord, while the stubborn rebels die. The wandering beggars, warriors, celibates and Sannyaasee hermits — through the Perfect Guru, consider this: without selfless service, no one ever receives the fruits of their rewards. Serving the Lord is the most excellent action. You are the wealth of the poor, the Guru of the guru-less, the honor of the dishonored. I am blind; I have grasped hold of the jewel, the Guru. You are the strength of the weak. He is not known through burnt offerings and ritual chanting; the True Lord is known through the Guru’s Teachings. Without the Naam, the Name of the Lord, no one finds shelter in the Court of the Lord; the false come and go in reincarnation. So praise the True Name, and through the True Name, you will find satisfaction. When the mind is cleaned with the jewel of spiritual wisdom, it does not become dirty again. As long as the Lord and Master dwells in the mind, no obstacles are encountered. O Nanak, giving one’s head, one is emancipated, and the mind and body become true.

Thinking that Guru Nanak was equating Mahadev and Bishnu with penitents and beggers, these people got annoyed and some even challenge for a fight. Some wise persons preferrreed a discussion. Guru Nanak explained to them that both Mahadev and Bishnu were living beings like others and they died as their time came. It is the God only who does not die. Those who remembee Divine Name are the ultimate gainers. The true Name is given only by a True guru:

“The Yogi who is joined to the Naam, the Name of the Lord, is pure; he is not stained by even a particle of dirt. The True Lord, his Beloved, is always with him; the rounds of birth and death are ended for him. O Lord of the Universe, what is Your Name, and what is it like? If You summon me into the Mansion of Your Presence, I will ask You, how I can become one with You. He alone is a Brahmin, who takes his cleansing bath in the spiritual wisdom of God, and whose leaf-offerings in worship are the Glorious Praises of the Lord. The One Name, the One Lord, and His One Light pervade the three worlds. My tongue is the balance of the scale, and this heart of mine is the pan of the scale; I weigh the immeasurable Naam. There is one store, and one banker above all; the merchants deal in the one commodity. The True Guru saves us at both ends; he alone understands, who is lovingly focused on the One Lord; his inner being remains free of doubt. The Word of the Shabad abides within, and doubt is ended, for those who constantly serve, day and night. Above is the sky of the mind, and beyond this sky is the Lord, the Protector of the World; the Inaccessible Lord God; the Guru abides there as well. According to the Word of the Guru’s Teachings, what is outside is the same as what is inside the home of the self. Nanak has become a detached renunciate”.

Having heard these hymns they all cooled down and became Guru Nanak’s followers. There is a Gurdwara and Guru Nanak Mission School commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit to the place.Guru Nanak Mission School is a coeducation residential Higher Secondary School.

Maihar is a railway station on West Central Railway line between Satna and Jabalpur, 97 miles (156 km) north of Jabalpur. Extensive ruins of shrines and other buildings surround the town.[2] There are no regular flights from other major cities of the country to Maihar. Nearest airport is Khajuraho Airport 106 km away. Central Maihar is connected via both major rail routes and National Highway 7. The Mahakoshal Express provides a daily direct connection from Delhi's Hazrat Nizamuddin station. The Mahakoshal train (Train no. is 12189/12190) runs between Hazrat Nizamuddin station and Jabalpur station past Maihar. Maihar Railway Station is situated in between Katni and Satna stations of the West Central Railway. During the Nav Ratra festivals there is a heavy rush of pilgrims. Therefore, during these days all up and down trains stop at Maihar for the convenience of passengers. The nearest airports are Jabalpur and Khajuraho. Ma sharda temple is visible from miles while travelling in a train.

References

Maihar Darshan Guide (Ed. Laxmi Prasad Soni), Vidyasagar Book Stall, Satna, p. 5

Chisholm, Hugh, ed. (1911). Encyclopædia Britannica (11th ed.). Cambridge University Press.

Falling Rain Genomics, Inc – Maihar

Chitarkoot

Chitrakoot is the place where Lord Ram spent most of his time in exile (eleven and half years) and it was most lovable place for him. The great sage Atri, Sati Anusuya, Dattatreya, Maharshi Markandeya, Sarbhanga, Sutikshna and various other sages, seers, devotees and thinkers meditated; and here the principal trinity of the Hindu pantheon, Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh, took their incarnations as per Hindu Mytholohgy.

Chitrakoot Dham (Karwi) is district headquarters and a municiptal board in Chitrakoot Distric in the state of Uttar Pradesh. In past, Karwi city was a tehsil in Banda district. On May 6, 1997 Government of Uttar Pradesh carved out a new district Chitarkoot from Banda district. Since then the city is serving as district headquarters. The city's coordinates are 25° North and 81° East. It is bounded in the north by Kaushambi, in the south by Satna (M.P.) & Rewa (M.P.), in the east by Allahabad (Prayag), in the west by Banda. Chitrakoot Dham (Karwi) is situated on the bank of River Mandakini.[2]

Ramghat: This is a main ghat in Chitrakoot. Tulsidas statue can be seen on the ghat. Bharat Milap temple is also there on this ghat. It takes around 2 hours to visit these. A well attended daily Aarti happens at 6PM in the evening. Kamadgiri Parikrama is around 5 km which can be completed in approx 2 hours. Beware of notorious monkeys on the parikrama; they snatch any polythene from your hand or spectacles. This place is 1.5 km from Ramghat. Hanuman Dhara: This is a hill where there are 3 main spots. Trimukhi Hanuman Mandir, Panchmukhi Hanuman Mandir (Main) and Seeta Rasoi at the top. There is a continuous stream of water falls on hanuman idol.The source of water is not known. At Sita Rasoi Sitaji cooked food during ram vanvas. This place is around 3 km away from Ramghat.

Gupt Godavari Caves: There are around 3 caves around 20 km from Ramghat.. Water streams flow through these caves. Sphatic Shila: This is a stone around 4 km from Ramghat where Lord Ram used to rest. This stone gives a velvet kind of feeling. Janki Kund: there is a hospital there now and this place is not open to visitors. The whole place is green with vegetation, mountains all around and lot of rivulets and springs meeting Mandakini river. The distance between Allahabad and Chitrakoot is around 130 kms. There is a huge jungle around.

Guru Nanak visited Chitarkoot from Maihar. Jabalpur shaahr di lehar dekh Chitarkoot a dekhia jithe Ramchanderji rahe se. ‘Uthon de lokan nun bhagrti vich tatpar kar mahiar nagar….ja pahunche’. Mahir actually comes halfway between Jabalpur and Chitarkoot. [1]





Lord Kamtanath temple and Pradakshina of Kamadgiri Mountain. Kamadgiri are the main holy places of Chitrakoot Dham. The Sanskrit word ‘Kamadgiri’ means the mountain which fulfills all the wishes and desires. The place is believed to have been the abode of Lord Ram, Sita and Laxman during their exile. Lord Kamtanath, another of His names, is the Ishta Deva principal deity not only of Kamadgiri Parvat but of the whole of Chitrakoot. The religious-minded believe that all the holy places are in the Parikrama or its pilgrimage-path. The pilgrimage path around this hill is about 5 Km long. There are a large number of temples in the Parikrama Path. Except during the summers, the place remains green throughout the year and appears like a bow seen from any place in Chitrakoot.





  1. Chitrakoot Dham : Entrance to Kamadgiri Parikrama
  2. Chitrakoot Dham : Shri Ram , Sita Maa , Lakshman jee and Shri Hanuman


Chitrakoot Dham: Kamadgiri Mountain (Photo credits: www.iskcontreedsire.net)

Bharat Milap

The Lakshman Pahari or Lakshman Hill located on the Parikrama Path of Kamadgiri Mountain half way from the Pramukh Dwar is the hillock where Lakshman; the younger brother of Lord Ram spent most of his time when retired from the services of his elder brother. He used to guard the Kamadgiri Mountain when Lord Ram and Sita used to rest. There is a temple after Lakshman and a pillar called Lakshman. Pilgrims embrace this pillar as if they were embracing Lakshmana himself .

In Chitrakoot, Hanuman Dhara also covers a beautiful fable of Lord Ram. It is believed that this cascade was created to ease the hardship of Hanuman while he returned from Lanka after setting fire to Lanka. Lord Ram pierces an arrow in this mountain which springs up water which relieves Shri Hanuman. Hanuman Dhara provides the awe inspiring scenery of a cascade that falls from the nearby mountains. Though the uphill path is little bit tiresome, the pictorial beauty of the gleaming waterfall take away all your hardships and you will be enthralled by the lovely environ that surrounds you.

An ascent of around 500 steps would get you towards the spring. The temple is dedicated to Hanuman holds a deity which is regarded as one of a rare idol of the monkey god. The spring that falls on the deity gradually fills the nearby kund is indeed a delightful site to be remembered for a long. Apart from this, Hanuman Dhara gives a implausible view of the legendary town of Chitrakoot and so do not forget to pay a visit to this lovely hillock.















Roads: Chitrakoot Dham (Karwi) falls on National Highway 76 (NH 76) stretched from Pindwara to Allahabad via Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Kota, Shivpuri, Jhansi and Banda. City is also linked with roadways to all adjoining districts of Banda, Allahabad, Satna, Rewa and Kaushambi. National highways are really in bad condition. Railways: Chitakoot Dham (Karwi) is an railway station (IRCTC code: CKTD) on Manikpur - Jhansi/Kanpur main line, served by the North-Central division of Indian Railways. Karwi is connected by trains to Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Bhopal, Raipur, Jabalpur, Kanpur, Khajuraho, Lucknow, Durg and Varanasi. Air: Allahabad is the nearest operational airport to the city which is 120 km away. Chitrakoot Dham (Karwi) also have an airstrip at Dewangana.[3]

After putting the people (at Chitarkoot) on right path, he saw the fair at Faridwada. (Note: This fair is held in the month of Jeth (May) on a well where Farid hung himself upside down with an iron chain. The crows ate his flesh from the palms. On this he sang, “O the crows: you have searched my caracas and eaten all the flesh. Please do not touch my two eyes since I have a hope to see my beloved.” There is a monument of a goat grazier who hung himself upside down with the help of grass rope. When the grass dried up and the rope was about to break, the God appeared and blessed both. Baba Farid sungy in ecstasy: (the one blessed by you g ot you too blessed.) Gyani Gian Singh,Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p.132)



References

1. Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p.

2."Census of India 2001: Data from the 2001 Census, including cities, villages and towns (Provisional)". Census Commission of India. Archived from the original on 2004-06-16. Retrieved 2008-11-01.

3. Airstrips of Civil Aviation Department, Uttar Pradesh

4. Gyani Gian Singh Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1 p.132: “Unhan nu summat la ke Farid wade da mela ja dekhia. (Note: Eh mela Jeth Mahine use khuh ute hunda hai jithe Baba Farid sangal nal khuh vich puttha latkia si te aia kavan talian khotar khadhian si, tan eh bolia si (kaga krang dhandholia sagla khaia maas. E doi naina mat chhuhao pir dekhan ki aas.} Use than bakrian charan wale da maqbara hai jihad ghah de rasse naal use kuen vich puthha latak pia si, us da rassa sukk ke tuttan laga tan parmeshwar ne dohan nun darshan de nihal keeta, tade hi Farid ne fer aakhia ki (aisa bakhshya tuh(i) milai tub hi bakhshia jai.”

Chanderi:

From Chitarkoot Guru Nanak travelled through Panna where from jewels like diamonds, rubies are dug from ground; Tal Bhopal, Mahilsar Parbat etc. and reached Chanderi South. It has a place in Baba’s memory. People there considered various elements like wind, earth, fire, sky, sun, moon, rivers etc., as the creators of the universe. To put them on right path Baba explained them that all these elements are rotating in fear of the Creator; the One God; this alone is Truth. He sang the following hymn:[1]

In the Fear of God, the wind and breezes ever blow. In the Fear of God, thousands of rivers flow. In the Fear of God, fire is forced to labor. In the Fear of God, the earth is crushed under its burden. In the Fear of God, the clouds move across the sky. In the Fear of God, the Righteous Judge of Dharma stands at His Door. In the Fear of God, the sun shines, and in the Fear of God, the moon reflects. They travel millions of miles, endlessly. In the Fear of God, the Siddhas exist, as do the Buddhas, the demi-gods and Yogis. In the Fear of God, the Akaashic ethers are stretched across the sky. In the Fear of God, the warriors and the most powerful heroes exist. In the Fear of God, multitudes come and go. God has inscribed the Inscription of His Fear upon the heads of all. O Nanak, the Fearless Lord, the Formless Lord, the True Lord, is One. (SGGS, p.464)

Having listened to the hymn their thinking process was changed from worshipping varios elements to worshipping only One God by remembering His Name.

There is a Gurudwara Ashok Nagar, Isagarh in Chanderi. But it does not provide link to Guru Nanak’s visit. This researcher went twice to Chanderi in 1983-1984 AD to locate it but was unable to find one. People there were also not aware about Guru’s visit to the place. It may be that when Gyani Gian Singh visited, there might be a gurdwara which does not exist now.





Digamber Jain Atishaya Kshetra Choubeesee Bara Mandir, Chanderi




Chanderi is a town of historical importance in Ashoknagar District of the state of Madhya Pradesh. It is situated at a distance of 127 km from Shivpuri, 37 km from Lalitpur, 55 km from Ashok Nagar and about 45 km from Isagarh.[2] Choubisi Mandir, Bawari Masjid, Jama Masjid, Kati Ghati, Battlesi Wabri, Koshiq Mahal, Shahzadi ka Rouza. Jogeshwari Devi temple, Baiju Bawra’s Mauselium, and Janki Nath Temple are some important monumnets.[3] Chanderi is a place famous for its handicrafts, natural and sceneric beauty and pilgrims. Choubeesee Bara Mandir is very artistic and unique example of architecture. The front portion of this temple is called Bara Mandir & rear part is called Choubeesee Mandir.

History of Chanderi goes back to the 11th century, when it was dominated by the trade routes of Central India and was proximate to the arterial route to the ancient ports of Gujrat as well as to central india, and the Deccan. In earlier times, it was a part of Gwalior State. Consequently, Chanderi became an important military outpost. The town also finds mention in Mahabharta. Shishupal was the king of Chanderi during the Mahabharata period. Balban captured the city in 1251. Khilji captured it in 1438 after a siege of several months. In 1520 Rana Sanga captured the city, and gave it to Medini Rai, a rebellious minister of Sultan Mahmud II of Malwa. In thehanderi , the Mughal Emperor Babur captured the city from Medini Rai and witnessed the macabre Rajput rite of jauhar, in which, faced with certain defeat and in an attempt to escape dishonor in the hands of the enemy, women with children in their arms jumped in a fire pit to commit suicide,which was made for this specific purpose,against the background of vedic hymns recited by the priests.Jauhar was performed during the night and in the morning the men would rub the ashes of their dead women folk on their forehead,don a saffron garment known as kesariya,chew tulsi leaves (in India tulsi leaves are placed in the mouth of a dead body),symbolizing their awareness about impending death and resolve to fight and die with honour.This method of fighting & dying for the cause of retaining honour was called "SAKA".[4] In 1540 it was captured by Sher Shah Suri. The Mughal Emperor Akbar made the city asarkar in the subah of Malwa.[5] According to Ain-e-Akbari, the autobiography of Akbar, Chanderi had 14000 stone houses and boasted of 384 markets, 360 sapcious caravan sarais (resting place) and 12,000 mosques. History thus is long. During Guru Nanak’s period it was under Khilji’s Rule. Chanderi is located at 24.72°N 78.13°E.[4] It has an average elevation of 456 metres (1496 feet). Coordinates 244312 N 780748 E

Gyani Gyan Singh mentions that from Chanderi Guru Nanak proceeded to Jhalrapattan. [6] Such a place could not be located on ground or map. The place may be Jallawar which is over 555 kms from Chanderi. Hence his next journey is shown as Jhansi and Gwalior. From there he travelled through Jhansi, Gwalior and crossing Chambal river he reached Agra on 4 Bhadron Samvat 1566 Bikrami.[6]

Reference

[1]. Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p. 133: “Uthon Jhansi Gwalior hunde hoe Chambal nadi par ho Bharatpur, Dhaulpur, ehna desan di sair karde hoe 4 Bhadron samvat 1566 Bikrami nun Agre a thahire’. Sri Guru Granth Sahib p.464.

[2] Abū al-Fazl ibn Mubārak, The Ain - I - Akbari, Volume 2, page 196

[3] http://www.nagoriyamath.org/chanderi.html

[4] "Jainism at Chanderi". http://chanderi.net. Hunter, William Wilson, James Sutherland Cotton, Richard Burn, William Stevenson Meyer, eds. (1909). Imperial Gazetteer of India, vol. 9. Oxford, Clarendon Press, The Mughal Throne by Abraham Eraly pg 33

[5] Chanderi - Wikipedia

[6] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p. 133

Jhansi

From Chanderi Guru Nanak proceeded to Jhansi.[1] There is no gurdwara commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit to Jhansi although there are number of other Gurdwaras. Onw Sikh showed me a place connected with Guru Nanak. He said, “This is the place where Guruji got himself sold for horses.” I had not heard of anyepisode connected with Guru Nanak. Twaliorhere is a direct route fom Jhansi to Gwalior. However there is a Gurdwara Bhai Bala Sandhu at Shivpuri commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit to Shivpuri. It is probable that Guru Nanak proceeded to Gwalior via Shivpuri.

Gurudwara Bhai Bala Sandhu – Shivpuri


stands at the location where Sri Guru Nanak Dev ji stopped briefly. Here, he gave an audience to the local sangat (congregation) and took water from a well that still exists at the Gurdwara. Gurdwara Bhai Bala Sandhu Gurdwara Bhai Bala Sandhu (also referred to as Gurdwara Padora) lies on National Highway Number 3, which leads to Agra and Sri Hazoor Sahib. Sikh pilgrims travelling to Hazoor Sahib usually make a stop at this Gurdwara for food and accomodation. Shivpuri is located 116KM from Jhansi 121 km from Gwalior and almost 970 km from Hazoor Sahib. Over the years, the Gurdwara, under the direction of Baba Hakim Singh, has helped many members of the sangat who are in need, e.g., who meet accidents via travelling and have other problems are helped out. All this has been carried out free of cost.

Other sewa projects of the Gurdwara include the Baba Amrik Singh Residential High School (Gurdwara A school at Pandora, Shivpuri offers free education to needy/orphaned children. Students at the school include local children, who attend as day pupils, as well as children who board at the school. The school is named after the late Baba Amrik Singh, son of the late Baba Charan Singh ji of Sampardai Kar Sewa Sarhali Sahib, Amritsar. A Charitable Hospital located opposite the Gurdwara is the recently completed project by Sant Baba Tara Singh, Sant Baba Charan Singh, was due for completion in 2008 or 2009. It has been constructed to meet the requirements of of medical facilities in the area for needy people.

Gwalior

Gwalior is a well-known city, 120 kilometres south of Agra and well connected by rail and road. Its historical fort built atop a hill is a prominent landmark overlooking the town below. There is a mention of Guru Nanak’s visit to the place by Gyani Gian Singh and Dr Sure inder Singh Kohli but no episode is shown linked to the place. A beautiful Gurdwara in Phool bagh on MLB Road commemorates the visit and this researcher has the privilege of visiting the place number of times. It is quite well attended by the sangat since another Gurdwara, gurdwara Bandi Chhod is quite a distance from the main city. Guru Nanak’s birthday and other important gurpurabs are being celeberated regularly.





Gurdwara Pahili Patshahi, Phool Bagh, MLB Road, Gwalior

Gurudwara Data Bandi Chor – Gwalior




Sri Har Gobind Sahib the sixth Guru was detained in the Fort of Gwalior by the order of Emperor Jahangir. The cause of detention, it is said, was that the fanatical Muslim officers, particularly those under the influence of Naqshbandi cult, were alarmed by the Guru's new policy of militarization. They poisoned the mind of Jahangir, who otherwise about that time had soft corner for Guru. He was summoned to Delhi and was asked to pay a fine of rupees two lakhs which had been imposed on his father and which the latter had refused to pay. As Guru Har Gobind showed little inclination to pay the fine, he was sent for detention to Gwalior Fort where the Mughal Emperor used to keep their political prisoners. Obviously the cause of detention was political. Non payment of fine was merely an excuse.

Chroniclers differ about the dates and duration of the Guru's detention. But it appears that it was only for a few months sometime between 1617 and 1619. The persuasive efforts of Bhai Jetha at Jahangir's court and may be the exercise of influence with the Emperor by the Muslim saint Hazrat Mian Mir, a friend of Guru Arjun, brought an early end to his detention. The release came in the nature of general amnesty which also brought the end of the imprisonment of 52 Rajas who had been kept there. The Guru came to be known as 'Bandi Chhor' The Grand emancipator. A Shrine bearing the name was established inside the fort. It was looked after by Muslim priests until the Sikhs acquired possession and established a Gurdwara after the Independence in 1947. The original Shrine in the form of a marbled platform is still maintained near the entrance to Gurdwara Data Bandi Chhor Patshahi 6 Guru HarGobind Sahib Ji, as it is now named. The present building complex spread over six acres was constructed under the supervision of Sant Jhanda Singh and Utam Singh Mauni of Khadur Sahib during the 1970s and 1980s. The principal building is a six-storey edifice near the old Shrine. The sanctum is on one side of a high-ceilinged, almost square hall on the ground floor. There is a basement below of the same size as the hall and four storeys of room above the sanctum. Guru ka Langar with its vast dining hall and residential rooms for staff and pilgrims are in a separate, adjoining compound. It is a peculiarity of this Gurdwara to have two sarvoars, one each for gents and ladies. Pilgrims from all over the country visit this Gurdwara to pay homage to Guru Har Gobind.Address: Gwalior Fort, Gwalior,Madhya Pradesh, India, Telephone 0091 751 2480040, 2480776. [2]

Reference

1.
Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p. 133: “Uthon Jhansi Gwalior hunde hoe Chambal nadi par ho Bharatpur, Dhaulpur, ehna desan di sair karde hoe 4 Bhadron samvat 1566 Bikrami nun Agre a thahire’. Srig Guru Granth Sahib p.464.

2. http://www.worldgurudwaras.com/madhya-pradesh/gurudwara-data-bandi-chor-gwalior
 
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