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Travels of Guru Nanak: A Brief

dalvinder45

SPNer
Jul 22, 2023
588
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Chapter IX

TO THE WIDER WORLD

After having visited Tulamba, Lahore, Sialkot, Emnabad, Goindwal Sahib and Talwandi and the surrounding areas in Punjab in 1499, the Guru started his journey beyond Punjab. It was the year 1500 A.D. when he started his first journey outside Punjab from Sultanpur Lodhi with kind blessing of his sister Bebe Nanki with a promise to come back when remembered. After visiting Talwandi, Guruji came back to Sultanpur Lodhi and took permission from his sister Bebe Nanaki for going on the long journey.(1)
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Map 9.1 Guru Nanak Dev Ji in Punjab during first itinerary
NAKODAR
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Photo 9.1 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Sherpur, Nakodar

In the first world itinerary Guru Nanak started from Sultanpur Lodhi and entered Jalandhar district and stopped at Sherpur on the periphery of Nakodar

Lamba Pind
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Photo 9.2 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Lamba Pind Jalandher

From Nakodar he is stated to have visited Lamba Pind, a village which has now become a locality of Jalandhar city. Lamba Pind is a locality in Jalandhar, Jalandhar District, Punjab, India. According to 2020 survey It is spread in Area 0.48 km² and has a Population is 1589. Being within Jalandhar city its Population Density is quite high i.e., 3294 people per km². Nearest airport & distance (Aerial) Adampur Airport, 15.47 km and Nearest Railway Station & Distance (Aerial) Suchipind, 1.42 km.

POWADRA
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Photo 9.3 Gurdwara Powadra

Powadra is a village in Jalandhar district of Punjab State, India. It is located 3 km from postal head office in Bilga, 14 km from Phillaur, 41.3 km from district headquarter Jalandhar and 127 km from state capital Chandigarh. The village is administrated by a sarpanch who is an elected representative of village as per Panchayati raj (India).[2] Nurmahal railway station is the nearest train station however, Phillaur Junction train station is 15.7 km away from the village. The village is 44.7 km away from domestic airport in Ludhiana. From Lamba Pind Guru Nanak came to Puadhara village near Bilga. It is linked to Nurmahal town via Talvan on the way to the Malwa region crossing the Sutlej at Talvan ferry, about three kilometers from Pavadhara. There are two historical Gurdwaras here dedicated to Guru Nanak and Guru Har Rai. Dharamsala Mutalqa Baba Nanak Sahib, an unscheduled gurdwara (serial no. 739) affiliated to Shiromani Parbandhak Committee is now called Gurdwara Guru Nanak Dev Sahib Patshahi Pahili. It is located in a residential house inside the village. This is maintained by the village sangat. [1][2][3][4] Later Shri Guru Har Rai Sahib Ji came via Nurmahal from Sultanpur Lodhi at the request of Sanagat. People served Guru Sahib with great devotion. Guru Sahib blessed them "Anand Raho" (2)(3)(4)

LUDHIANA

Crossing the Sutlej at Talvan ferry, about three kilometers from Pavadhara Guru Nanank reached the cosmopolitan city of Ludhiana lying on the banks of the Sutlej River and the historic Grand Trunk Road is Punjab's most populated city and industrially advanced known as the Manchester of India and the district of Ludhiana is known as one of the largest agricultural producers in India. Iy was not so 500 years when in 1500 A. D., when Guru Nanak crossed over Sutlej River.. It was only a small village named ‘Meer Hota.’[1] During the reign of Sikandar Lodhi (1486-1517 AD) Lodhis had settled in this village later naming the place as Lodhi-ana. This was gradually developed as modern Ludhiana. Initially the place was just a small encampment of the Sultans.

An event relating to the visit of Guru Nanak’s visit to the place is described by Gyani Gyan Singh: “A group of Bairagi saints were sitting hungry at the place. When they requested for rations from village elders, they remained mute. Guru Nanak said, “The panchayat here is hard of hearing. It will not remain so anymore.” [1] Since then Ludhiana (30°54'N, 75°52'E) has developed into the largest industrial town, a key communication centre and a municipal corporation with an estimated population of 15 lacs (1.5 million) in the state of Punjab, in northern India. Standing on the Sutlej River’s old bank some 13 km south of the river's present course, the city covers an area of about 310 km². Ludhiana is centrally located on the National Highway 1 between Delhi and Amritsar. It is connected to the Indian capital city of New Delhi by road and has frequent train service. It is the richest district in the state of Punjab, and also includes the most productive industrial hub producing hosiery items, cycles, machine parts etc.

Guru Nanak’s visit to Ludhiana and the villages around before going to Jagera Nanakpur is found recorded in Gurdham Sangreh. [1] and Malwa Itihas. (2) Guru Nanak visited Iqbal Ganj and Gau Ghat within the inner periphery of the present city and Dugri, Dhandra, Thhakkarwal, Gill and Bulara on the outer periphery of the city. Out of these, Gurdwaras at Iqbalganj, Gau Ghat, Dugri, Dhandra, and Thakarwal exist now which are discussed further.
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Map 9.2: 1 Gurdwara Charan Chhoh Iqbalganj 2. Gurdwara GauGhat 3. Gurdwara Manji Sahib Dugri 4. Gurdwara Khuhisar Dhandra 5. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Thakarwal 6. Gurdwara Nanaksar Jagraon 7. Gurdwara Bohd Sahib Jagraon

GURUDWARA CHARAN CHHOH PATSHAHI PEHLI IQBAL GANJ, LUDHIANA

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9.4. Gurudwara Charan Chhoh Patshahi Pehli Iqbal Ganj, Ludhiana
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9.5. Parkash Sri Guru Granth Sahib in Gurdwara IqbalGanj, Ludhiana

Gurdwara Charan Chhoh Patshahi Pehli is situated in WV75+M7F, Iqbal Ganj Chowk, Naulakha Garden Colony, Ludhiana, Punjab 141008, India and is about a km from Railway station Ludhiana. Gudwara is located between two shops in Trtankanwala Bazar, Ludhiana. A strong local belief of the local sangat draws them to the Gudwara. There usd to be a well connect3d with Guru Nanak at the site which however has been filled now and a room constructed over the well is the residence of a sewadar. [5]

GURDWARA THARA SAHIB GAU GHAT, LUDHIANA
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9.6. Gurdwara Gau Ghat Ludhiana-Sri Guru Granth Sahib inside,

9.7. History of Thara Sahib on Board


After resting for some time at Iqbaganj, he proceeded to Gau Ghat, Ludhiana. As per a local tradition Guru Nanak came here along with Bhai Bala and Mardana during his first journey. The ruler of the locality Jalal-u-deen along with his courtiers came to meet the Guru and to request him to save the city from occasional floods and erosion being caused by river Sutlej. Guru Ji guided him to serve his people well and impart justice judiciously. ‘Leave rest to the Will of God. God may be kind enough to move Sutlej miles away from the city. By His Will the place will become prosperous”, the Guru blessed.

A platform was constructed at the place to commemorate Guru’s visit and the place was initially known as Thara Sahib. Dr. Gurmukh Singh states in Historical Sikh shrines: ‘Gurdwara Gau Ghat on the bank of Buddha Nala in No. 3 Division is said to be an old shrine established to commemorate Guru’s Nanak Dev’ stay at this spot. Originally it was only in the form of Thara Sahib (a platform).[6]

After sometime, the river changed its course and moved 13 kms away from Ludhiana leaving its stream Buddha Nala to serve the people of the city.[7][8] This has now been expanded into architectural monument through Kar Sewa by late Baba Harbans Singhjii Dilli Kar Sewa wale from 1976 to 2005 AD. It is now affiliated as as an unscheduled shrine to S.G.P.C.[9]

A sarovar has since been added by diverting the Buddha Nala and reclaiming part of its bed. All the Gurpurabs are celebrated here with enthusiasm. In future construction of Sarai, School and library are envisaged.

THAKKARWAL, LUDHIANA:
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9.8 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Thakkarwal

Thakkarwal is village on the outskirts of Ludhiana on road Ludhiana-Pakhowal road, 8 kms from Feroze Gandhi market-Bhai Bala chowk and 20 kilometers from Pakhowal. It is now getting merged up with Ludhiana with lot of construction work of colonies in progress in the area. Gurdwara Nanaksar is just on the periphery of the village. As per the entry ‘Thakkarwal’ in ‘Mahankosh’ Bhai Kahn Singh Nabha ‘records: A village in Ludhiana district. It has Nanaksar, the Gurdwara on the name of the fist Guru (p.553) [9] Gurdham Didar confirms the above. [10]

Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited the place during his journey to the east. He came here from Gau Ghat in Ludhiana city along with his disciples Bhai Bala and Bhai Mardana. He is stated to have stayed here for 3-4 Days. According to senior citizens of Thakkarwal, Thakkarwal was yet not fully settled; the population was gradually migrating to their fields in this area from Village Lalton. There used to be a Johad (big pond) surrounded by Butt trees (Bohad). It was a fit place for the animals to have water and rest during noon. All the old and young also used to get together for the rest, play and gossip as is still the practice in remote villages of Punjab. Guru Nanak found this as a fit place for rest and has discussions with the local people. The head priest of temple named Thakur Das had migrated from Rajasthan and a dera in Allahabad. He served his Guru in Mathura Das well.In a rage he left the dera with some of his supporters.By this time Guru Nanak was sitting in the shade of the tree.Thakur Das met Guruji and held some discussions about the existence of god.He was enlightened to get the real answer from Guru Ji. After the death of his Guru the locals preferred another sewak Paramdas At his Guru’s death, he expected to be honoured with the vacated seat. However, Paramdas was handed over the dera.

This place remained undeveloped till Sant Hardial Singh Droli took over the task of building a Gurdwara at the place. Mukand Singh Rampur performed construction service (kar seva) with total dedication. Later on this service was taken over by Bhai Harbans Singh Delhi Kar sewa wale. Under the direction of Jarnail Singh and an excellent building structure is in place and a 200x190 feet water tank has been added after raising the plinth by25 feet. Sikh religious maryada is performed daily and all Gurpurabs are celebrated with regularity. The village is gradually becoming the part of Ludhiana with most of the important colonies like Basant enclave. To reach the location one can take an auto or taxi from Ludhiana or Pakhowal Road.[11][12][13][14][15]

DUGRI (LUDHIANA)
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9.9. Gurdwara Damdma Sahib Sahib Patshahi Pehli ate Chhevin Dugri, Ludhiana
Dugri is on the outer boundary of Ludhiana by the side of Sidhwan canal. It was visited by Guru Nanak dev ji and Guru Hargobind Sahib ji while passing through Ludhiana. He came here from and went to

Gurudwara Damdama Sahib was constructed recently to commemorate the visits of Guru Nanak Dev Ji as well as by Guru Hargobind Singh Ji. Guru Nanak Dev Ji imparted the Sikhism teachings amongst the people there and later Guru Hargobind Singh Ji visited this place to rest for sometime before heading forward to face the Mughals. The Gurudwara is situated outside the city and is often very quiet and peaceful with only the sound of kirtan filling the air around. Purely divine and serene.[16[17]

GURDWARA KHUHISAR, DHANDRA, LUDHIANA
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9.10 Gurdwara Khuhisar, Pehli Patshahi, Dhandra

According to the board at Gurdwara Board at Khuhisar, Dhandra and at per local legends told by the elders of Dhandra, Dugri and Gill villages Guru Nanak came from Ludhiana Gau Ghat to Dugri and from Dugri came to this place and went through village Gill to Jaghera. Indication of Guru Nanak on this route are also available in Malwa Itihas p.10. A Gurdwara was constructed on Dugri-Dhandra road market in 1995 which encloses the well stated to be dug at the instance of Guru Nanak.The board says that the villagers of Dhandra and Gill looked after Guru ji well but Guru ji said’ “Ujad jao.” Mardana asked the reason as to why those who served the Guru well were askd to desert the place? Guru Nanak replied that: “these persons are good natured. Where ever they would go they will spread goodness.” These words if the Guru turn4d true. The people of village of Dhandra and Gill spread widely. People from Gill village established nine villages (Chak 91 to 99) in Lyallpur district (now Faislabad, Pakistan) and after 1947 migrated to numerous other villages in North India including Dhanansu, Lakhowal, Gaddowal, Saloo Bhaini, Garoo Bhaini, Gadapur, Gaunsgarh, Aliwal, Dher etc. Similarly villagers of Dhandra too established number of villages in Pakistan and after 1947 spread to villages Gagra, Andloo, Khwajke, Halwara, Paut, Nauladi, Lalaudi, Rahaun, Mahaun, etc. and in many colonies around Ludhaina. This is how Guru Nanank’s prediction became true. Guru Nanak helped digging up a well which exists till date as can be seen in the photograph. He else held dialogue with a Muslim Faqir at the site whose place can be seen adjoining Gurdwara Khuhisar. The Gurdwara is about 2 kms from Dugri and of similar distance from Dhandra on Dugri-Dhandra Road and can be rached from Ludhiana easily since Autos go from Bus stop to Maniwal Gate just opposite Khuhisar, Gurdwara. Sri Guru Granth Sahib is established and the regular Kirtan is performed in morning and evening where quite a number of local sangat gathers.[18]

JAGERA
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9.11. Gurdwara Sahib Nanaksar Jagera
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9.12. Board at Gurdwara Sahib Nanaksar Jagera

This Gurdwara is situated at a distance of 4 Km South of town Ahmadgarh on Ludhiana-Malerkotla Road in Village Jagera-Nanakpur and is on the main highway. This Gurdwara is in the memory of the visits of Guru Nanak Dev Ji during his preaching tours. GuruNanak rested and stayed here in 1500 AD during his First Udasi. Shri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji also visited the place later. Gurdwara Shri Patshahi Pehli ate Chhevin Sahib is at the periphery of village Jagera; also known as Nanakpur Jagera in the District of Ludhiana on Ludhiana- Malerkotla-Sangrur Road 4 kms from Mandi Ahmedgarh. After the visit of Guru Sahibs the village came to be known as Nanakpur Jagera.[19[20[21]
Continued........
 

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dalvinder45

SPNer
Jul 22, 2023
588
36
79
GURU NANAK’S VISIT TO SANGRUR DISTRICT

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Map. 9.2 Guru Nanak Dev Ji 's Travels through Sangrur District

About 400 years back Sanghu, a Jat founded the village Sangrur, which has now developed into a sprawling city once it was made the Capital of erstwhile Jind State by Raja Raghbir Singh. He kept his residence here before being elevated as Raja on 31.3. 1874. He built a beautiful town constructing a bazaar on the pattern of famous pink city Jaipur with concrete built shops. After partition, in 1948, by taking parts from erstwhile Phoolkian States of Jind, Nabha and Patiala, the Muslim State of Malerkotla and some parts of the then District of Ludhiana, it was made a district of PEPSU (including the new districts of Malerkotla, Barnala, Jind and Narwana) and later a district of Punjab, when these districts were carved out of it. Jind and Narwana Tehsils were transferred to the newly created State of Haryana. It is 3614 Sq.Km. in area. This District was divided into 4 Tehsils and 8 Sub-Tehsils – Tehsils – Sangrur, Sunam, Malerkotla and Moonak and Sub-Tehsils are Ahmedgarh, Amargarh, Bhawanigarh, Dirbha, Khanauri, Lehra, Longowal and Sherpur. Recently Barnala and Malerkotla have been made separate districts.

Guru Nanak Dev ji visited Sangrur district while proceeding on his first itinerary and also while returning from second itinerary. In first itinerary, he entered Sangrur disrict from Jagera in Ludhiana district. He proceeded through Malerkotla, Banbhaura, Bhasaud, Kheri Jattan, Dhadogal, Bangawali, Cheema, Bhadalwadh, Chhitanwala, Bhalwan, Sangatpura, Gehlan, Khurana, Mangwal, Akoi, Mehlan, Ghanaur, Dirba on to Cheeka, Bhagal, Pehowa, Kutukshetra and Hardwar. While returning from second Udasi from Jind in Haryana, he visited Sunam, Bhamabandi, Bahadurpur, Mastuana, Knjhla and went to Takhtupura in Moga district.In First Udasi, he entered Sangrur district from Jagera Nanaksar from Ludhiana side and reached Banbhaura through Malerkotla in Sangrur District. According to Dhanna Singh Chehal (Cycle Yatra, p.378), Guru Nanak visited Malerkotla but no Gurdwara commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit exists. From Malerkotla Guru Nanak went to Banbhaura.

BANBHAURA
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9.13. Gurdwara Tikana Sahib Pehli te Chhevin Patshahi Banbhaura, Malerkotla

Banbhaura is a village now in Malerkotla district (Earlier in Sangrur District) of Punjab, 10 KM from the District headquarters, Malerkotla, 35 KM towards North Sangrur and 99 KM from State capital Chandigarh. Its Pin code is 148022 and postal head office is Amargarh (Sangrur). According to Census 2011 information, village location code of Banbhaura village is 039540. The total geographical area of the village is 911 hectares and it had a population of 4,016 peoples living in 779 houses. [22]
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9.14. Board at Gurdwara Tikana Sahib with history of Guru Nanak's visit

Guru Nanak Dev Ji and Guru Hargobind Sahib ji set their feet at this place. Guru Nanak dev Ji came here during his first Udasi from Sultanpur Lodhi through, Ludhiana and Jagera Nanaksar and went to Bhasaud through Banbhaura, He rested at this place along with his companions. Then onwards the place has been named as Tikana Sahib (resting place). Guru Hargobind Sahib also visited the place during his battles in Malwa. Guru Hargobind ji tied his horse with a mango tree there which has now dried up. Grand conferences on propagation of Sikhism (Gurmat Samagams) are held and partaking of ‘Khande da Pahul’ takes place on Katak Poornmasi and on 5 July, the day Guru Hargobind ji was born. Special programs are held on every Sunday and Masya. The children are connected to Sikh History, Guru’s words, Keertan, gatka and turban tying. Free medicines are given in the dispensary attached to the Gurdwara. A beautiful museum attracts the young and the old alike towards the Sikh fundamentals and religiosity. 9 bighas of land and 19 shops are attached to the Gurdwara. [22][23]

BHASAUR,
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Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Bhasaur

Bhasaur is a village in Dhuri Tehsil, Sangrur district of Punjab. It is located on State Highway No. 11 between Dhuri and Malerkotla 10 km away from sub-district headquarter Dhuri (Tehsildar office) and 25km away from district headquarter Sangrur. As per 2009 stats, it is about 240 km from Delhi and 140 km from Chandigarh, the capital of Punjab state. Its nearby villages are Banbauri, Sangala, Babanpur, Sangali etc. According to Census 2011 information the location code or village code of Bhasaur village is 039636. Pincode of Bhasaur village locality is 148024. Bhasaur village is also a gram panchayat. The total geographical area of village is 959.13 hectares. Bhasaur has a total population of 3,527 peoples in about 735 houses. Village is famous due to a Sikh preacher and writer Teja Singh Bhasaud. Guru Nanak visited this place from Banbhaura. A Singh Sabha Gurdwara was constructed by Teja Singh Bhasaud at the place commemorating his visit.[24][25][26]

KHERI JATTAN
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9.15. Gurdwara Jhida Sahib Kheri Jattan

Kheri Jattan village is located in Dhuri tehsil of Sangrur district in Punjab, India. It is situated 8 KM from Malerkotla, 15 km away from sub-district headquarter Dhuri and 27 km away from district headquarter Sangrur. As per 2009 stats, Kheri Jattan village is also a gram panchayat. Total population is 1468 and number of houses are 277. The total geographical area of the village is 375.46 hectares. According to Census 2011 the village location code of Kheri Jattan village is 039642 and pincode is 148024. The village is in Malerkotla Tehsil in Sangrur District of Punjab State. [27][28] As per local tradition Guru Nanak Dev ji came here in his first Udasi and stayed here for some time in a local jhida (a place with high natural growth). He was looked after well by Mai Bholi, a lady with great spiritual leanings. The local people were very much impressed by Guru Nanak’s teachings and became his followers. Later, at the place where Guru Nanak Sahib stayed, a gurdwara named Jhirra Sahib was constructed in 1894 AD. New congressional hall was constructed along the charming Gurdwara surrounded by Beautiful Jamun trees. Guru Nanak Dev langar Hall was added later. The natural surroundings of the Gurdwara are indeed mesmerizing. [29][30][31]

DHADOGAL
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9.16. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Nanaksar Sahib Dhadogal, Sangrur

Dhadogal village is located 15 kms away from Dhuri tehsil headquarters of Sangrur district (30 kms away) in Punjab, The total geographical area of the village is 980 hectares with a population of 2,895 peoples in about 566 houses. According to Census 2011 information the village location code of Dhadogal village is 039641 and pincode is 148024.[32] According to a local legend, during his first itinerary, Guru Nanak stayed here while proceeding towards Sangrur. The local people believe that the tree under which Guru Nanak dev ji rested, bears sweet fruit which otherwise would have been bitter. Having a faith in Guru Nanak they constructed a huge double-storied Gurdwara complex containing sanctum sanctorum, a langar hall and a prayer hall.[33]

BANGANWALI,
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9.17. Gurdwara Pehi Patshahi Banganwali

Banganwali village is located in Dhuri tehsil of Sangrur district in Punjab, India , 6km away from Dhuri and 24km away from Sangrur. According to Census 2011 the total geographical area of village is 246.45 hectares. Banganwali has a total population of 1,153 peoples staying in 215 houses. Pincode of Banganwali is 148024 and the village location code is 039653.[34] Banganwali is about 5 km from Bhasaud in Dhuri Tehsil towards north. Guru Nanak visit the place during his first itinerary. About a furlong In the east of village Banganwali there are two banyan (bohar) trees distancing each other by six steps one towards north and the other towards south. Guru Nanak Dev’s Manji Sahib is in between these two banyan trees. There is a pond closeby which has been converted into a sarovar. About 15-20 bighas of un-irrigated land is attached to the Gurdwara which has been declared s village common land (shamlat) [35]

CHEEMA
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9.18. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Cheema District Sangrur

Cheema village is located in Dhuri tehsil of Sangrur district in Punjab,14 km away from Dhuri and 28km away from Sangrur. According to Census 2011 the total geographical area of Cheema village is 232.79 hectares; a population of 967 peoples, living in 173 houses. Its pin code is 148024 and the village location code is 039645.[36] As per the prevailing folklore, Guru Nanak visited the place during his first Udasi. He came from Bangwali and went to Bhadalwadh on his way to Sangrur. A magnificent Gurdwara building and a sprawling sarovar commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit to the place. The building construction was initiated by Sant Atar Singh in 1911. New sanctum sanctorum with a huge dome flanked by small domes and supported by many arched façade are part of the 50 feet high ceiling was started in 2010. It is the tallest Gurdwara in the entire district. The environmental concerns have been kept in mind during construction. No marble or gold has been used anywhere. Huge langar hall and the rooms with moderns facilities and amenities attract pilgrims for night stays. The Gururabs are celebrated with devotion by the people from adjoining areas in large strength.[37]

BHADALWADH
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9.18. Gurdwara Pehi Patshahi Bhadalvadh



Bhadalwad is a Village in Dhuri Tehsil in Sangrur District of Punjab, India. It is located 16 KM towards North from District headquarters Sangrur, 6 KM from Dhuri and 106 KM from State capital Chandigarh. Bhadalwad Pin code is 148017 [38]. Guru Nanak Dev ji came here to meet a Muslim faqir who had met him during his Mecca travel and had held discussions during the travel. Guru Nanak visited him and stayed with him and held discussions again. The faqirs was very much pleased. Guru ji proceeded to Chheetanwala from here. Hundred years later, Guru Hargobind Sahib who had been following Guru anak Dev Ji’s steps, also visited the place. He tied his horse with a tree which is reminiscent of his visit. From this place he went towards Nankiana Sahib, Mangwal. Guru Tegh Bahadur also visited the place en-route to Jehangir village. The jand tree to which Guru Tegh Bahadur tied his horse still survives in the complex. providing cover with its leaves to the archway.[39]

GURDWARA SANGATSAR SAHIB GEHLAN
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9.19. Gurdwara Sangatsar Sahib, Gehlan. Sangrur district

Gehlan village is located in Sangrur tehsil of Sangrur district in Punjab, India. It is situated 9 km away from Sangrur, which is both district & sub-district headquarter of Gehlan village. As per 2009 stats, Gehlan village is also a gram panchayat. The total geographical area of village is 293 hectares. Gehlan has a total population of 822 peoples in 152 houses. According to Census 2011 village location code of is 039674 and pincode is 147204. [40] Guru Nanak came to Gehlan from Chheetanwala on the way to Mangwal and sat outside the village where the Gurdwara Sangatsar Sahib commemorating his visit is established. [41] Located on a main street in the village wears a fresh look since it has been recently renovated. [42]

GHANAUR JATTAN,
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9.20. Gurdwara Patshahi 1, 6 & 9 Ghanaur Jattan Sahib

Ghanaur Jattan is a Village in Sunam Tehsil in Sangrur District of Punjab State, India located 22 KM towards East from Sangrur, 17 KM from Sunam and111 KM from State capital Chandigarh.. Ghanaur Jattan Pin code is 148026 and postal head office is Bhawanigarh. Local Language is Punjabi. Village population is 1369 and number of houses are 270. [43] The village is located on the Sarhand canal’s Ghaghar Branch. It is locally known as Tall Ghanaur. Local legends mention of Guru Nanak’s visit to the place. 6th Guru Hargobind Sahib and 9th Guru Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib also visited this place. A sprawling complex of common Gurdwara Sahib commemorating the visits of all three Gurus is located among the vast greenery of fields all around and natural growth is in abundant as the Ghaghar river flows close by peacefully. Two Nishan Ssahibs identify the Gurdwara from a distance. The tall structure of Gurdwara Ghanaur Sahib towers over all these natural surroundings. An ancient kendu tree (ebony) on one side dominates the sky line. A large sarovar is attached to the gurrdwra and its walls have paintings of the gurus. The langar hall is open round the clock. Guru Hargobind Sahib tied his horses with two wooden posts which have now grown in to two karir trees which now exist on the premises of the Gurdwara and the devotees consider these sacred and worshoip these as well. Guru Tegh Bahadur sahib is stated to have visited this place while touring Malwa region.[44]

KHURANA,
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9.21. Gurdwara Jyotisar Khurana Sangrur

Khurana is a most beautiful village having many gurdwara sahibs. This village is in Sangrur Tehsil in Sangrur District of Punjab State, India and located 6 KM towards East from District headquarters on the Sangrur-Patiala road and 117 KM from State capital Chandigarh. Its Pin code is 148001 and postal head office is Sangrur. It is just Mangwal 2 KM fom the village. Khurana village population is 1682 and number of houses are 303 as per 2011 Census. [45] An age old local legend describes Guru Nanak’s visit to the place while going to Mangwal. Guru Hargobind Sahib, the sixth master of Sikhs, also visited the village during his travels in 1616 CE coming from Akoī and stayed here close to the village pond, southeast of the village where a Gurdwara Jyotisar Sahib Patshahi Chhevin now marks the site as a testimony to his visit. [46] Guru Hargobind ji came in the village but no one cared about except Mai Karmo who followed Guru ji. Seeing her following Guru Ji stopped and sat under Beri Tree. Mai Karmo Ji along with the accompanied sangat bowed in front of Guru Ji and offered milk. Guru Ji blessed her with Son and also blessed that who-so-ever will come here with devotion all his wishes will come true. The beri Tree is still present in the complex.
A beautiful Gurdwara complex was later constructed to commemorate his visit. This complex includes the sanctum sanctorum where Sri Guru Granth Sahib is seated, a spacious langar hall, rooms for visitors and a beautiful landscaped garden. An ante-room has a mirror like work depicting Guru Gobind Singh. Gurpurabs and Puranmashis are the special occasions when congregations are held on a large scale. Hola Mahala and Jor Mela too are largely attended. [47]

GURUDWARA SHRI AKOI SAHIB, SANGRUR
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Photo 22: Gurdwara Akoi Sahib

Akoi Sahib is a Village in Sangrur Tehsil in Sangrur District of Punjab State, India. It is located 4 KM towards North from Sangrur, 5 kms to the west from Nanakiana Sahib Mangwal, and 119 KM from State capital Chandigarh. Its pin code is 148001 and postal head office is Sangrur. Banganwali is 2 KM from this place. Gurudwara Shri Akoi Sahib is situated in the village Akoi Sahib, Distt Sangrur. Situated on the Sangrur Dhuri Road, it marks the place where Shri Guru Nanak. [48] This Gurdwara is situated is at 200 stes from village Akoi towards the south and at a distance of 5 Km North of Sangrur City on Malerkotla-Sangrur Road in Village Akoi. This Holy place has been blessed by the visits of First Sikh Guru, Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Sixth Sikh Guru, Shri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji and Ninth Sikh Guru, Shri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji [49]. Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited this place in 1508. People gathered here enchanted by his Sh abad abd music by Bhai Mardana. They offered him food and water. When he came to know that this place did not have a name he called it Akoi Sahib. As per Mahan Kosh, he asked the people present to construct a dharamsal and spread the message of God and truth to all. [50] Guru Nanak came here from Nankiana Sahib and went to Bhamabbandi which is about 6 km to the west. Gurdwara Akoi has 400 bighas of land attached to it. Earlier it used to get 125 rupees from Jind state which has been stopped after 1948. Its post office is sangrur and the railway station sangrur is just 5 km towards the north and Bahadur Singh wala 5 km towards south. Both langar and staying arrangements exists for the visitors. [49] At that time a dense forest existed here. Guru Ji blessed the followers and said that one day a city would prosper here. Guru Ji had come here from Nanakiana Sahib, Village Mangwal. [51]

Guru Hargobind sahib’s visit is foud recorded in Mahan Kosh, Malwa Sikh Itihas and wafreekh Gru Khalsa. [50] Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji visited this place in 1616. He came here from Kanjhla which is 10 kms to the south of Akoi. He went to Nankiana Sahib from Akoi [50] Some Sadhus had burnt a Peepal tree at Nanak Matta which belonged to Guru Nanak Dev Ji. So Alamsat, a follower of Baba Gurditta Ji (the eldest son of Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji), requested Guru Ji to visit Nanak Matta. Guru Ji, while on his way from Amritsar to Nanak Matta, stayed at this place due to strong devotion of Manak Chand Ji. (50, 52) People served Guru Ji with love and devotion. The karir tree with which Guru Ji had tied his horse still exists near Manji Sahib [49]. Guru Ji blessed this place with milk and sons. Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji visited this place in 1665 alongwith his Mother, Mata Nanaki Ji, his wife, Mata Gujri Ji, his Maternal Uncle Kirpal Chand Ji , few Sikhs and Rababi group of Bhai Nathu ram Ji, while on his way from Anandpur sahib to Assam on 3 Years Journey. Guru Ji came via Villages Aalo-Aarkh, Bhawanigarh, Gharachon, Mangwal and Nanakiana. Guru Ji arranged Kirtan Darbar here. [52]

MANGWAL
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Photo 23. Gurudwara Nankiana Sahib, Mngwal District Sangrur

Mangwal village is located in Sangrur tehsil of Sangrur district in Punjab, India situated 3km away from Sangrur. As per 2009 stats, Mangwal village is also a gram panchayat. The total geographical area of village is 1050 hectares. Mangwal has a population of 9,066 peoples, in about 1,905 houses. According to Census 2011 the location code of the village is 039764 and pincode is 148001. [53][54]

Gurudwara Shri Nankiana Sahib is situated in the District City Sangrur, Situated on the outskirts of city. It marks the place where Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji and Guru Tegbahadur Sahib Ji had visited. Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji had meeting with Kaal here. He told Guru Sahib about controlling the people. Guru Nanak Dev Ji came here from village Bhalwan [55] According to local tradition, when Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji came here in the early 16th century; the village of Mangwal was closer to the site of the present Gurdwara which stands near a deep pond. It was on the bank of this pond that Guru Nanak had preached to the villagers. [54] Guru Nanak held disussions agt this ace with a Brahman named Kalyug. He stayed here for one month 21 days. [[55] Guru nanak encouraged the congregation in the village to work hard and live a life free of superstition. [56]

A century later, as Sri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji visited the village in 1616 from Akoi and wengt to village Khurana (3) He reminded the inhabitants to maintain the sanctity of the pool consecrated by Guru Nanak and not to pollute its water with village waste. Guru Hargobind also had a platform constructed in honour of Guru Nanak. The villagers obeyed Guru Hargobind and shifted to the site of the present village from where they would come to make obeisance at the Thara Sahib, or the sacred platform, and to have a dip in the holy pool. According to a copper plate preserved in the Gurdwara, the present, a fortress like haveli type building was constructed in 1886 by Raja Raghbir Singh (1833-87) of Jind.[54]

Gurdwara is housed in a high walled complex on the highway that skirts Mangal. The Gurdwara includes a saror-var surrounded on all sides by a parikrama colonnaded corridors and a sizeable langar hall providing meals round the clock. Rooms are also available for the devotees for night stay. [56] The entry to the Gurdwara is through a massive wooden gate, consisting of several courtyards. In the central courtyard is a marble floored domed structure called Manji Sahib Patshahi Pehli. It has a platform, reverently covered with a piece of cloth, representing the Thara Sahib established by Guru Hargobind Sahib. In a separate compound behind the Manji Sahib is the assembly hall where Sri Guru Granth Sahib Ji is seated in the middle. A peculiar weapon called gurzitabar with inscription 1724 on it in Persian numerals is preserved as an antique. It is a steel rod with a hilt like that of a sword but the point having five tongues like blunt blades projecting sideways. A Persian couplet inscribed on it means: 'Gurzitabar in the hands of Gobind Singh strikes the enemy's head.' An engraved figure shows Guru Gobind Singh on horseback.[53] Shri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji tied his horse to a Karir Tree. Later when the construction of Gurudwara Sahib was going on, some person unknowingly cut the Karir tree and constructed a room there. But with passing of time Karir tree grew up again and came out of the roof of the room. Another compound houses the Guru ka Langar. The old pond has been lined and converted into a sarovar. [53][54]

Gurdwara Sri Nankana Sahib Mangwal owns 140 acres of land and is administered directly by the SGPC. Besides daily prayers and divans, important days on the Sikh calendar are observed with special religious programs, Vaisakhi taking precedence among them.[53][54]

KAMALPUR DIRBA

Photo 24.Gurdwara Nanaksar, Pehli Pashahi, Kamalpur Dirba


Kamalpur is a Village in Sunam Tehsil in Sangrur District of Punjab located 29 KM towards East from Sangrur, 17 KM from Sunam and 114 KM from State capital Chandigarh. Kamalpur Pin code is 148035 and postal head office is Dirba. According to 2011 Census Kamalpur population is 3397 in 639 houses. Its local Language is Punjabi.[57]

Guru Nanak dev ji came here from First Ghanaur Jattan on the way to Kurukshetra. According to Mahan Kosh, after visiting Bhagal, Cheeka and Kharaudi Guru Nanak halted in Jind for sometime before making his way to Kamalpura a village in Dirba. (2) However the route when marked showed that after Ghanaur Jattan Guru Nanak in first itinerary (udasi) proceeded through Mehlan to Kamalpur Dirba. After resting here he preceded to Kamalpura (Patiala) and through Bhagal, Cheeka, Pehowa, he reached Kurukshetra. Gurdwara Nanaksar Sahib Kamalpur Dirba commemorates Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s visit to the place.[58][59]

KAMALPUR PATIALA
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Photo 25. Gurudwara Patshahi Pehli Chevin ate Nauvin Sahib, Kamalpur, Patiala

Kamalpur is a Village in Sanour Tehsil in Patiala District of Punjab State, India. It is located 8 KM towards South from Patiala and 74 KM from Chandigarh. This Place is in the border of the Patiala Punjab and Kaithal District in Haryana. Cheeka in Kaithal District is in the South from this place. According to 2011 Census Kamalpur Local Language is Punjabi. Kamalpur Village population is 915 and number of houses are 158.[59]

Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited from Sangrur disgtrict during his first travels. After Kamalpur Dirba he came to this place and went towards Kurkshetara through Cheeka and Pehowa. Gurudwara Patshahi Pehli Chevin ate Nauvin Sahib is situated in Village Kamalpur Distt Patiala. This sacred place is related to Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji and Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib Ji. According to local tradition, Guru Nanak Dev Ji came here and sat on the periphery of the village on the bank of a pond. The villagers did not pay heed to him taking him to be an ordinary saint. In those days, a Sadhu also used to live on the same bank of the pond. People cared him instead. Guru Nanak held discussions with the sadhu who was deeply impressed at the Guru Nanak’s thought process, spirituality, chrisma and communicative competence. Having heard the discussion the local people were also attracted towards Guru Nanak and thronged to him in large number. Gruu Nanak delivered discourses to them here and rested here for some days and blessed this place. Gurudwara Shri Patshahi Pehli is situated at that Place. Guru Hargobind Sahib and Shri Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib also came here while on Malwa tour and rested here for some time. They also blessed this place. [60][61][62]

References

1. Gurmukh Singh Dr. Sept 1995, Historical Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros., p.139
2. Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, March 2005, Gurdham Didar, Amritsar, p.120
3. Gian Singh, Giani, Twarikh Gurduarian. Amritsar, n.d.
4. Narotam, Tara Singh, Sri Guru Tirath Sangrahi. Kankhal, 1975
5. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, ‘Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Iqbalganj’, Ludhiana, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab, October 2019, p. 141
6. Giani Gian Singh, 1997, Gurdhm Sangreh, Daram Parchar Committee Shiromani Gurdwara
Parbandhak Committee, Sri Amritsar, p. 35-36.
7. Gurmukh Singh, 1995, Dr. Historical Skih Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.189
8. Jasbir Singh Sarna Dr and Diljit Singh Bedi, Gurdwara Kosh, Amritsar, Dharam Parchar Committee.
9 The Encyclopedia of Sikhim 2nd edition, Punjabi University, Patiala, 1996,
10. Kahn Singh Nabha ‘Mahankosh’, entry ‘Thakarwal’: A village in Ludhiana district. It has Nanaksar, the Gurdwara on the name of the fist Guru (p.553)
11. Gurdham Didar, edited by Giani Gurdit Singh, March 2005, Dharam Parchar Committee, SGPC Sri Amritsar, p.167
12. Kahn Singh Nabha ‘Mahankosh’, entry ‘Thakarwal’: A village in Ludhiana district. It has Nanaksar, the Gurdwara on the name of the fist Guru (p.553)
13. Gurdham Didar, edited by Giani Gurdit Singh, March 2005, Dharam Parchar Committee, SGPC Sri Amritsar, p.167
14. Fauja Sirigh, Guru Teg Bahadur, Yatra Asthan, Prampranvan te yad Chinh. Patiala, 1976
15. Kahn Sirigh, Bhai, Gurshabad Ratnakar, Mahan Kosh. Patiala, 1981
16. Visakha Sirigh Sant, Malwa Itihas. Kishanpura, 1951
17. Gurudwaras in Punjab 9 To 21 City
18.Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, ‘Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Khuhisar, Dhandra, Ludhiana’, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 140-141
19. Gyani Gyan Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa, ® Language Deptt Punjab, Patiala, 1970.
20. Kahn ingh Nabha Bhai, Gurshabad Ratnakar Mahankosh, Language Department Punjab, Patiala, 1981
21. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, ‘Gurdwara Pehli te Chhevin Patshahi, Jagera, Ludhiana, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 132-133
22. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p.217
23. Gyani Gyan Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa
24. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p.216
25. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Singh Sabha Bhasaur, District Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 102-103
26. Bhasaur Village in Dhuri (Sangrur) Punjab | villageinfo.in
27. Kheri Jattan Village in Dhuri (Sangrur) Punjab | villageinfo.in
28. Kheri Jattan Village , Malerkotla Tehsil , Sangrur District
29. Twareekh Guru Khalsa
30. Dhana Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p.
31. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Jhira Sahib, Kheri Jattan, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 120
32..https://villageinfo.in/punjab/sangrur/dhuri/dhadogal.html
33. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Nanaksar Sahib Dhandogal, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limaited, Punjab October 2019, p. 121
34..http://villageinfo.in/punjab/sangrur/dhuri/banganwali.html
35. Dhana Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p. 216-217
36. Cheema Village Population, Caste - Dhuri Sangrur, Punjab - Census India; Census 2011 Data - censusindia.gov.in
37. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Nanaksar Cheema, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 123
38. Bhadalwad Village, Dhuri Tehsil , Sangrur District
39. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Charansar Sahib, Bhadarwadh, Dhuri, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 126-127
40. Gehlan Village in Sangrur, Punjab | villageinfo.in
41. Dhana Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p.213
42. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Datun sar, Bhalwan Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 110-111
43. Ghanaur Jattan Village, Sangrur Tehsil , Sangrur District
44. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Ghanaur Jattan, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p.122
45.Khurana Village , Sangrur Tehsil , Sangrur District
47. "Khurana". www.offerings.nic.in. Archived from the original on 3 October 2011. Retrieved 25 March 2012.
48. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Sidha Sahib, Khurana, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p.122
49. Akoi Sahib Village
50. Dhana Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p. 213-214
51. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Akoi Sahib, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 130-131
52. Gurudwara Sri Akoi Sahib, Sangrur - World Gurudwaras.
53. Mangwal Village in Sangrur, Punjab | villageinfo.in
54. Gurdwara Sri Nankana Sahib Mangwal | Discover Sikhism
55. Dhana Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra, p. 213-214.]
56. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Nankiana Sahib, Mangwal, Sangrur, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 114-115
57.. Kamalpur Village , Sunam Tehsil , Sangrur District.
58. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi, Nanaksar Sahib, Kamalpur, Dirba, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, Sangrur, p. 108
59. Video on Kamalpur Didba on PTC by Turban Traveller
60. Gurudwara Shri Patshahi Pehli Chevin ate Nauvin Sahib, Kamalpur
61. Dhana Singh Chehal, Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra,
62. Punitinder Kaur Sidhu, Gurudwara Patshahi Pehli, Chevin ate Nauvin Sahib, Kamalpur, Patiala, Guru Nanak’s Blessed Trail (Punjab), Lonely Planet Global Limited, Punjab October 2019, p. 109
 

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GURU NANAK DEV JI IN HARYANA
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Map 10.1. Guru Nanak’s Travel through Haryana

PEHOWA

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Photo 10.1 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Pehowa

After visiting places of Malwa regions of Punjab Guru Nanak reached Pahowa and sat on the banks of Saraswati river. As he saw people making heavy payments to Pandas on the name of redeeming the elder through the ritual of ‘pind bharauna’ in the fair of Chet Chaudas of the Bikrami 1561, he explained them the worthlessness of these rituals. He asked the Pandas if they can show any dead getting redeemed. The people understood the game and refrained fromn these rituals.[1] (There are two shrines at Pehowa dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev Ji; one inside and the other outside the old Pehowa town in Kurukshetra distt. Gurudwara Shri Baoli Sahib Pehowa is situated outside Pehowa town. Pehowa is an important pilgrim centre for Hindus as they come here for performing certain funeral rites and registereing their dead with their respectivepundits or family priests.These pandas possess genealogical records of their families going back to severalcenturies. Located on the bank of Sarsvati river, Pehowa is 27 km west of Kurukshetra along the road to Kaithal. Other roads from Ambala, Karnal and Gulha-Cheeka also converge here. A fair held on Chet Chaudas and Poornmasi. Guru Nanak Dev visited Pehowa during his first udasi on the occasion of the traditional Chet-Chaudason the fourteenth day of the dark half of the lunar month of Chet.At that time there was lot of influence of pundits. They used to make fool of people on superstitious rites for the benefits of the dead. Pandits used to throw a big ear ring of tyre size in Sarswati Rivers. They asked people to donate ear ring at night and showed them this ear ring in the morning to prove that their donation had got multiplied at night. People used to donate more and more in greed of multiplication.During his sermons he particularly stressed for futility of performing superstitious rites supposedly for the benefit of the dead and exhorted the people to remember God and perform right actions. Guru Nanak Sahib told them: “If donation is multiplying here so much; how much evil will multiply which the pundits are using to rob the pilgrims through treacherous rituals?”Guru Nanak Dev Ji stopped people from ancestor worshiping and preached thd ba baba yat after death, the offerings does not reach the person, it is their deeds that go with them.

"Nanak Agey So Milae, je khate ghale dei" The Pandits felt ashamed and stopped these rituals. Guruji Sahib stayed here for sometime and meditated. The place remained in a state of neglect until 1950 when Baba Jivan Singh Sewawale took up its reconstruction A Bhora Sahib and a Baoli (now convereted into sarovar)is also located at the place where Guruji used to meditate. Gurdwara is now known as Gurdwara Sahib Patshahi Pehili. It is close to the bus stand. It is a magnificient complex spread over several acres and comprising 63 feet square sanctum dome above it. A spacious 100 yards square sarovar and ancilliary buildings for Guru ka langar, offices and residential quarters for staff and pilgrims. Shri Guru Amar Das Ji and Shri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji also stayed here while going to Kurukshetra

GURUDWARA SHEESH MAHAL, PEHOWA
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Photo 10.2 Gurdwara Sheesh Mahal Pehowa

The other gurdwara, right on the bank of Saraswati inside the town, is called Gurdwara Manji Sahib. It was single room structure constructed by Chief of Kaithal (d. 1843). This too has since been replaced by a new two-storeyed building by Baba Jiwan Singh’s successors. Gurudwara Sheesh Mahal is situated in the middle of Pehowa Town in Kurukshetra Distt.

In 1567, Shri Guru Amardass Ji reached this place and guided the people that by visiting pilgrimages they cannot get the internal relief. The Guru is the true peer.

"Tirath nahavan jao tirath naam hai, tirath shabad vichar antar gyan hai"

In 1616, Shri Guru Hargobind Ji reached this pious place and preached to abolish the caste system and pray for god.In 1675, Shri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji reached at this place.He listened to the woes of The Hindu Priests who were scared of Aurangjeb. Guru Sahib replied not to panic

"bhai kaahu ko det neh neh bhai manat aan kaho nanak sun re mana giani tahi bakhan"

After meeting Sayyed Bhikan Shah at Ghurham and while going to Siana Saidan Guru ji stopped here. He preached the congregation not to take donation (offerings gifts) in the name of religion.

Both these Gurdwaras are frequented by pilgrims throughout the year but monthly amawas congregations and religious fairs on Puranmasi and Chet-Chaudas attract fairly large gatherings. [2]

KARHA
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10. 3 Gurudwara Shri Karha Sahib

Gurudwara Karha Sahib is situated in the Karah Village, Tehsil Pehowa and Distt Kurukshetra 11 kms west of Pehowa along the Pehowa-Guhla road, half a kilometer north of the road. Approached fromn the west it is 19 kilometres from Chika, now a well known road junction connecting Patiala to Kaithal and Pehowa to Guhla. Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji came here during his first udasi via Kurukshetra and Pehowa. Here he lived a Pandit who was very proudy for his his Knowledge. Guru Sahib showed him right way to the life. Shri Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji came here while going to Nanak Mata, when Baba Almast ji informed him that Gorakh Sadhus have captured Gurudwara Nanak Mata and renamed it as Gorakh Mata. Here lived a man named Kalu a blind and physical Handicaped, who used to worship Guruji a lot. When Kalu came to know that Guruji had come, he reached Gurujib crawling and said: “Guru Ji please cure me from tmy disease”. A Sikh sitting near Guruji asked Kalu to touch Guruji’s horse’s feet dust with his eyes. He did as said and he was able to see everything. Guruji blessed him and said: “Work here; Keep Guru ka langar functional and donot go to any one for Donation. Your diseases will be cured. Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib also came here. A Masand appointed by Guru Hargobindwas living here, When he came to know about Guru Tegbahadur Ji's arrival, afraid of Muslims, he did not came to meet Guruji. A person served Guru Sahib with great devotion. Guruji asked him not to use tobacco and blessed with with God's wishes everything will be blessed to you. He also Gave him Rs 500/-for digging well and Garden at that place. But instead of making a garden and a well on Guru Ghar's name he did all things on his name. Guru Gobind Singh Ji also came to this place while going Siana Sayyada and stopped under Imli Tree. Guruji warned masand appointed by Shri Guru Teg Bahadur Ji for his act. That tree is still preserved there. [3]

CHEEKA
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10.4 Gurdwara Cheeka Sahib

Midway between Patiala in Punjab and Kaithal in Haryana this place was visited by Guru Nanak during his first udasi. Sixth and Ninth Gurus also visited the place later. Guru Hargobind Sahib passed through it probably in 1638 while visiting Kurukshetra. Guru Tegh Bahadur came here from Garhi Nazir near Samana on his way to Delhi. This historical Gurdwara inside village Chikka has been reconstructed by the Kar Sewa Wale sants of Pehowa. It is a magnificent double storey domed building havinga 80-feet square congregation hall at the ground floor. Guru ka langar and residential accommodation for staff and pilgrims are in a separate compound about 150 yards away from the Gurdwara.[4]. Its post officeand police station are Goola

THANESAR-KURUKSHETRA
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Map 10.2 Thanesar Kurukshetra
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10.5 Gurdwara Guru Nanak Dev Kurukshetra

GURDWARA SIDH VATTI KURUKSHETRA

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10.6 Gurdwara Sidh Vatti Kurukshetra

Thanesar is an ancient town famous for Kurukshetra war. A fair on the eve of sun eclipse is visited bythe saints and siddha from all over India. After the sun eclipse the visitors have bath in the water tank. There are six gurdwaras in this area. Guru Nanak followed by Guru Amardas, Guru Hargobind, Guru Tegh Bahadur, Guru Gobind Singh visited the place. Guru Nanak went to Thanesar just before the Sun eclipseand held discussions with the Siddhas.[5]

Gurudwara Shri Sidhvati Sahib Patshahi Pehili situated in Kurukshetra City. Situated on the Southern Bank Brahm Sarover, it marks the Visit of Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji to Kurukshetra. Guru Ji came here during on time of Sun Ecplipse. It was propagated that Sun is in tfhe grip of demins and has to be relieved through Yagya. GuruNanak told the pilgrims that Sun ecplipse is natural Phenomenon and has nothing to do with God and Demons. Guru Ji also prepared the Non Veg food and when served it was Kheer. Guru Ji tried to prove that controversy regarding vegetarianism and non vegetarianism is irrational. two hymns on this topic that appear in Vaar Malaar Ki in Sri Guru Granth Sahib (S.G.G.S. 1289-1290) are believed to have been uttered on this occasion. Bhai Udai singh Kaithal (1830-1843) made the Gurdwara first time.

Kapal Mochan
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10.7. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Kapal Mochan Sahib

Kapal Mochan is an ancient place of pilgrimage for both Hindus and Sikhs, 17 km north-east of Yamunanagar city-Jagadhari town, on the Bilaspur road in Yamunanagar district, Haryana, India.[6] It is also called Gopal Mochan and Somsar Mochan. As per Legend, Brāhmanahatya i.e. killing of Brahmin is considered as a major sin, but one who kills a Brahmin and bath here, his Brāhmanahatya sins will be washed. Nearby Bilaspur, Haryana (not to be confused with Bilaspur, Himachal Pradesh) in Yamuna Nagar District which takes its name from the corrupted form of "Vyas Puri", was the ashram of Ved Vyasa rishi where he wrote the Mahabharta on the banks of Sarasvati river near Adi Badri where Sarasvati river leaves Himalayas and enters the plains.[7]

Guru Nanak stopped here during one of his udasis in 1584 and have spoke to a large gathering disputing the ritual of Sootak (the concept that a newborn baby is born impure). According to Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Sootak is there on Mind when it is entangles in vices. Adi Granth states: ਮਨ ਕਾ ਸੂਤਕੁ ਲੋਭੁ ਹੈ ਜਿਹਵਾ ਸੂਤਕੁ ਕੂੜੁ ॥ ਅਖੀ ਸੂਤਕੁ ਵੇਖਣਾ ਪਰ ਤ੍ਰਿਅ ਪਰ ਧਨ ਰੂਪੁ ॥ ਕੰਨੀ ਸੂਤਕੁ ਕੰਨਿ ਪੈ ਲਾਇਤਬਾਰੀ ਖਾਹਿ ॥.[8] A Gurdwara Sahib is located which commemorates his visit.[9]

KARNAL
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10.8. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Karnal

Situated on the historic Grand Trunk Road (National Highway-1), 123 km north of Delhi, Karnal (29°42`N, 76"59`E) has now developed into a very flourishing district town of Haryana. Starting from Thanesar Guru Nanak rested under a peepal tree in a garden in Karnal a small vil lage then.[10]Gurdwara Manji Sahib, Karnal is associated with this visit. At that time, the people of Karnal were held in awe by a number of Muslim Peers, or holy men, who had built their reputations by conjuring miracles. Chief among them was Peer Abu Ali Shah Qalandar. Guru Nanak sat on a small mound in a garden and recited hymns (shabads). This brought to him a number of ardent devotees. The Muslims did not like this. Some of them complained to Pir Abu Ali Shah Qalandar who became angry on what he heard from his people and set off to meet the Guru, riding a wall. He hoped to impress Guru Nanak Dev with a miracle. However, before he could reach the place where Guruji was staying, the wall he was riding upon, stopped moving. He could not move ahead. He realized his mistake. Accepting his defeat, he went on foot to pay obeisance to the Guru. Guru Nanak Dev advised him to shun such practices and use his spiritual strength for the good of the people.

Gurdwara Manji Sahib commemorates his visit to Karnal where he held religious discourses. The Guru pointed out that the practice of worshipping graves and tombs of holy men amounted to a breach of the injunctions of Islam. Gurdwara Manji Sahib, Karnal is located on Sarafa Road, Old Sarafa Bazaar, Karnal on Grand Trunk Road Bye Pass. Raja Gajpat Singh ofJind (1738-1789) got a gurudwara constructed on the site of the Mariji Sahib. An assembly hall on the first floor and the langar and a two-storeycd concrete pavilion were added later. The Gurdwara is affiliated to Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, which administers it through a local committee. The Sixth Guru, Guru Har Kishan Sahib also visited this place on his way to Delhi in 1663. Guru Tegh Bahadur is also believed to have visited the shrine in 1670 during his journey from Delhi to Lakhnaur. In 1709, Baba Banda Singh Bahadur captured Karnal and established Sikh rule here.[10][11][12][13][14][15][16]

PANIPAT
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10.9 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Panipat

‘Guru Nanak reached Panipat while returning from Hardwar and proceeded to Delhi hereafter. Sheikh Sharaf was the Muslim religious head (peer) of Panipat. His follower was Sheikh Tatteehar. He had come to collect water for the Peer and saw Baba (Guru Nanak) and Mardana sitting and bowed and wished him saying: “Slama Lekum, darvish.’ Guru Nanak replied: “My obeisance to the God. My offering is to the Peer as well.’ Sheikh Tatteehar was surprised as he thought: “No one from other religions ever paid obeisance to the Peer in this manner. I must inform of this development to my Peer.” He went to his Peer and informed: “God may secure the Peer. I am amazed at the hymn sung by a saint.” “How does he look?” asked the Peer. Sheikh Tateehar told what transipired between the two. Sheikh Sharaf was a disciple of Khwaja Qutbuddin. He came along with Shaeikh Tatteehar to the Guru andheld discussions which impressed Sheikh Sharaf Sheikh Sharaf said at the end of the discussions: “ Wah! Wah! Those who do rights deeds as per God’s Will, their sight itself is sufficient for redemption. He touched Guru’s feet and retreated to his own dwelling. Guru Nanak alongwith Mardana moved next.[17]

From Panipat, after visiting number of places and meeting saints and mendicants, Guru Nanak reached banks of Ganges in Hardwar on Waisakhi fair of Samvat 1562 Bikrami and stayed at Nanakwara. [18]

References

1. Twareekh Guru Khalsa, p. 96.
2. Gurmukh Singh: Pehowa: p. 292-293)
3. KARHA SAHIB - The Sikh Encyclopedia
4. Gurmukh Singh, Historical Sikh Shrines, p.295.
5. Gurdham Didar, p.89-90
6.yamunanagar.nic.in Archived 21 August 2014 at the Wayback Machine: About Kapal Mochan Temple
7.Sarasvati Sodh Sansthan Publications 2015
8.Page 472, Adi Granth, Nanak
9.G.S., Randhir (1990). Sikh shrines in India. New Delhi: The Director of Publication Division, Ministry of Information and Broadcasting, Government of India. pp. 42–43.
10. Gyani Gyan Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa, Language Department Punjab, p.99
11. https://www.worldgurudwaras.com/historical-gurudwaras/india/KARNAL
12. Tara Singh, Sri Gur Tirath sangreh, Amrisar, n.d.
13. Thakar S ingh, Giani, Gurduare Darshan, Amritsar, 1923
14. Nanak Singh, Gur Tirath Darshan Amritsar, n.d.
15. haryana/karnal/gurudwara-manji-sahib-karnal,
16. http://www.thesikhencyclopedia.com/karnal
17. Janamsakhi Walait Wali, edited by Bhai Vir Singh, p.56
18. Twareekh Guru Khalsa, p.99
 

dalvinder45

SPNer
Jul 22, 2023
588
36
79
UTTRAKHAND

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Map 11.1 Guru Nanak Dev ji’s travel through Uttrakhand

As per verification by this author on ground while walking on the foot prints of Guru Nanak, Guru Nanak’s travels path could be linked as under:

Guru Nanak Dev Ji went to Uttrakhand in first and third Udasis. In First Udasi he visited Hardwar from Panipat through Shantershah and from Hardwar he went through Kotdwar, Gendikhata, Najibabad and Haldor, Meerut he reached Delhi. In his third Udasi also knownas Sumer Udasi, he entered Uttrakhnand from Himachal Pradesh through Chakrata and Dehradun he went to Tehri Garhwal, Dhrasu to Uttrakashi, Gangotri and Yamnotri from where he returned and through Pauro Garhwal, Srinagar, Rudarprayag he visited Kedarnath and Badrinath, he crossed over to Mansarovar-Kailash through Manna Pass he crossed over to Kailash-Mansarovar. From Kailash-Mansarovar, he returned along Kali Nadi and reached Pithoragarh. From Pithorigarh, he reached Bageshwar, Almora, Nainital, Haldwani, Kashipur, Nanak Puri Tanda and reached Nanak Matta. From Nanak Matta he went to Reetha Sahib in Champawat District and thereafter, he entered Kohriwala Ghat to go to Ayodhya in Uttra Pradesh.. Details of his first Udasi are given here while of third Udasi are to follow later.

SHANTER SHAH
Shantershah village is located in Roorkee tehsil of Hardwar district in Uttarakhand, India. It is situated 10km away from sub-district headquarter Roorkee (tehsildar office) and 20 km away from district headquarter Hardwar. The total geographical area of village is 312.75 hectares and a total population of 206 peoples in about 22 houses. Pincode of shantershah village locality is 247667. According to Census 2011 information the location code or village code of Shantershah village is 056450.. Roorkee is nearest town to shantershah for all major economic activities, which is approximately 10 km away. It is 2 miles from daultpur village. [1] Guru Nanak visited the village while going to Hardwar. It has a gurdwara Nanak Khada commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit. Gurdwara is in control of Udsi Sadhus. Maharaj (Sri Guru Granth Sahib) is duly placed in snctum sanctorum. Idol of Sri Chad is also worshipped here. The arrangements for food and stay are good and the vistors are looked after well. There is a Nishan Sahib also but withouot Khanda. Gurdwra is quit large and spacious. 5000 acres of land are attached to it. He village with 9000 acres of land is also attached ot the Gurdwara. Government is being paid tax for the land. The 40-50 acres of land in the beighburing villages were purchased by the mahant by using offering to Gurdwara. Roorki is the Post office and Railway station.[2]

HARDWAR
Guru Nanak reached Hardwar , a Hindu center of pilgrimage on the banks of the holy Ganga. from Panipat. 'At Hardwar, he proceeded to Har ki Pauri. People had gathered there in large numbers and were taking bathe in the holy river. There, a crowd of pilgrims led by priests was performing various ceremonies to obtain salvation for their dear departed ones.

Guru Nanak Dev Ji observed many people throwing water towards the sun in the east. The Guru had already heard about this meaningless ritual. He, therefore, thought it the right place and the proper time to give correct guidance that those kinds of mindless hollow rituals have no value. He moved forward, stood facing the priests and began to offer water with his left hand towards the west. At this strange reaction, attention of all others around was diverted towards Guru Nanak.

One of the priests came forward and said, "O ignorant one! What are you doing? Come, I well help you to do what is right."

"Is it so difficult? I am doing just what you were doing", replied the Guru and continued offering water towards the west.
"We are offering water to the sun for our departed souls", said the priest," to quench their thirst."
"Then I am offering water to my drying crops and lands in Punjab", said the Guru.
The priest laughed and said, "How can you do that?" The Guru paused as a crowd gathered around to watch the scene. The Guru then asked, "How far are your ancestors?"
"Forty nine crores kos", the priest replied. "My place is five hundred kos only ", Guru Nanak remarked promptly, "If your water can reach crores of kos, then why can't my water reach five hundred kos?"
Priest had no reply. Guru Nanak further said, "You want to send water to those who have no thirst as they are beyond it. My fields require water badly." The people became silent and started thinking over the reply that was given by the Guru. They had no logical argument to challenge his statement. This made the people think about the worthlessness of their ritual and understood the gimmicks of the priests.
.
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Photo 11.1. Guru Nanak "watering" his crops in Punjab Courtesy Sikh Missionary Society U.K.
Guru Nanak Dev Ji came out of the river and the crowd followed him. The Guru calmly told them the truth and explained that hollow rituals do not have any religious value. They should love respect and take care of their people, friends and religions when they are alive rather then perform these useless rituals afterwards. When people die, they do not need anything from us and neither can we send them anything after they have left this world. After death, people get what they have given to the needy, out of their honest earnings, while living on this earth.

He said "A man may perform lip recitations, austerities, and self restraint and dwell at places of pilgrimage. He may give donations and alms and do other good deeds, but it is useless, if His Name does not dwell in the heart".

Guru Nanak then went to camping area. 'There he was invited by the priests for meals. They did special cleaning of the area by plastering the place with mud, drawing a line around.

Guru Nanak asked Mardana to cook the meals. When Mardana went to take fire from the pandits they fell upon him. The story is well described in verse.

'And here again, at Hardwar's fair and nook,

Nanak asked Mardana, to fetch fire to cook.

The orthodox around when his pots were touched. He fell upon Mardana, saying, "I will bring you to book".

Nanak thought and very gently so said,
"Evil and hatred are in his heart and head.
Purity lies in inner-self not fire and pots.
Divinity resides not in object but soul instead".
The Guru explained to the pandits:-

'There is no impurity in the different phases of the moon and the sun. There is no impurity in music nor there any impurity in Vedas. There is no impurity in the rain; there is no impurity in water. No impurity is contained in the air either, says Nanak, there is no virtue in the man, without the Guru. If he turns his face away from Guru’s teeachings, the mouth is defiled then,".

Guru Nanak explained further "Evil intellect is the she-drummer, heartlessness, the butcheress, slanderer the hear, the sweeperess and deceitful wart a pirate woman. What for do you draw lines around, if all these four are seated with you? Make righteousness thy obstenance, pious way of life thy lines and Lord's Name thy ablution. Nanak says, these only shall be exquisite who do not tread the path of sin."

Guru Nanak described the limitless powers of the Lord. All meditation, all study of Vedas and Puranas, all thy deeds, all penances, all songs and all wisdoms, all intellects, all ingenuities, all religious places, all rules, all authority, all joys and all all of them, are moved by the Lord according to His will and His pen directs our deeds. Nanak says, true is the Lord. True is his Name. True is His congregation and true is His Court'.

Some of the people had come to Hardwar to throw the remains of their dead into Ganga. Priests dragged them too in worthless rituals like that of throwing water back to the river in the name of their dear ones; Guru Nanak did not approve of this and said. "Water taken for sipping is worth if the real worth of the water itself is known. For the wise man the sipping is of true knowledge and for the yogi it is of chastity; for the Brahman it is of contentment, and for the householder, it is of truth and charity; for the kingship, it is of justice and for the learned man it is of concentration. Water does not wash the heart, but quenches thirst. The water is the creator as well as the destroyer."

He saw a few men in sad mood after disposal of the remains of their dead. Guru Nanak calmed them saying, ''Nanak says the world is of ash colour and becomes ash at its end. All earning from this becomes ash too. The body dealing with ash becomes ash. When the soul is taken out of the body, only ash remains. After his death when mortal is asked the account of his deeds the resultant is ash and gets ten times the ash in return."

As they mourned in sorrow and showed signs of pain, Guru Nanak solaced them saying, "A man is born and dies in pain and he lives in pain. Pain over-pain is suffering of human beings. The more one tries to know about the pain, the more he wails. The pain pocket is loose, out of which no happiness emerges. A man is burnt after pain they come into life again with happiness, with the fire in pain, the mortals are scorched to death, but it is the pain alone which cures all ills."

During his stay at Hardwar fair, Guru Nanak Dev Ji preached against superstitions, false rituals, worship of demi-gods and goddesses. He stressed that only One God, the Formless, is to be glorified. In this way, he showed the path of truth and enlightenment.

Commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit to Hardwar, there used to be two Gurdwaras;Gyan Godri on the bank of River Ganga and Gurdwara Nanak bari just a few yards towar ds the city which this writer visted number of times earlier. [3][4][5][6][7]

GURDWARA GYAN GODRI HARDWAR
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Photos 11.2 and 11.3 Gurdwara Gyan Godri Hardwar

Gurdwara Gyan Godri (Treasure of Knowledge), located in Haridwar Uttarkhand, at the spot where Guru Nanak is said to have visited by Guru Nanak during his travels in 1504 as per Janamsakhis (biographies). Historical site of Gurdwara was at the banks of River Ganga. Gurdwara Gyan Godri Sahib was constructed where Guru Sahib had rejected the superstitious rituals and talked about omnipresent God. Gurdwara Gyan Godri was constructed at Ganga Ghat to commemorate his visit. Raja Narinder Singh of Landhaura State and owner of Landhaura House donated the premises to Gurudwara Gyan Godri in 1880. [3][4][5][6][7]

Dhanna Singh Chehal visited this place on 01 June 1931 [8]. He writes: “The Gurdwara is on the bank of Ganga River at Hark i Pauri Platform. It is well known as Gurdwara Gyan Godri. Langar is distributed two times a day. Assa di Vaar is recited in the morning. In the evening there is a congregation gathering daily. There is no land attached to the Gurdwara. It appears that attached land is grbbed by someone. The financial condition of the Gurdwara only enough for day to day business. No stay arrangements can be done in this Gurdwara because the place is very narrow. Now the Gurdwara is in control of a Rani and its case is in her court. Arrangements for day to day are done by the Government. Gurdwara is being run by Nirmala saints. Man Singh is the mahant. Gurdwara Parkash asthan and Langar are in the same room. Mahant gives Rs 2000 as rent to the Rani through the Government. This rent has been increased due to conflict between Udasis and Nirmalas. The land of the Gurdwara is thus taken on rent. Nirmala saints say that Gurdwara Gyan Godri commemorates the place where Guru Nanak stopped the ritual of watering the sun. Udasis repeat the same story as explained before..

After a Kumbh Mela stampede in 1966, Haridwar administration acquired Landhaura House to widen Har Ki Pauri and demolished a part of the gurdwara as part of a beautification & development effort. Later there was forcible destruction of the gurdwara premises during the 1984 anti-Sikh riots. As of today the gurdwara building is no longer in existence. In its place, an office for the Scouts and Guides have been constructed by the state Government and a hotel have come up in a portion of the Gurdwara as witnessed by this author. A few yards away from this place, a private gurdwara building has been allowed in a small room where the Guru Granth is insalled. The remainder is a market. It was apparently destroyed in 1979 and Sikhs were not allowed to reconstruct it. The Sangat is trying ever since for the restoration of the Guru’s house. The same space is now occupied by an office of Scouts and Guides.
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Photo 11.4. Office of Scouts and Guards Hardwar at Ganga Ghat in place of Gurdwra Gyan Godri

GURDWARA PEHLI PATSHAHI NANAKWARA, HARDWAAR

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Photo 11.5. and 11.6 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Nanakwara, Hardwar

Another ancient gurdwara called Gurdwara Nanakwara, located 200 metres away was converted into Hindu Mandir. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Nanakwara was visited by Sardar Dhanna singh Chehal on 1 June 1931 [9] He wrote in his diary about this Gurdwara: “Gurudwara, famous by the name of Gurwara Nanakwara is in the control of Udasi saints. Maharaj (Sri Guru Granth Sahib) is installed here but langar facility is not abvailale. There are many rooms for staying; most of them ar e given on rent. It is difficult to dtay here without money. Where Maharaj Ji (SGGS) is placed, there is an idol of Babaji (Guru Nanak Dev ji) which is being worshipped a lot. This Gurdwara is on the bank of the river in the city which is close to Kushawarat Ghat and is near the bus stop about 40 karam from the Bus stop. This route is through a narrow street. Mahant Inder Singh has been looking after this place on the instructi on of Udasi saints. It is stated that Guru Nanak stayed at this place before he went to Ghat. [9]

There is another Gurdwara at Kankhal commemorating Guru Nanak. Guru Amardas Ji also visited the place hence known as gurdwara kankhal sahib popularly known as Gurdwara Guru Amardas Ji. There is another Gurdwara begtween Hardwar, Jawalaji and Kankhal commemorating Guru Gobind Singh’s visit to the place. It has a well of Guru Period and a Manji sahib covered with a cemented canopy which has the painting of a foot. The well has some writings in Sanskrit. Name of Nawab kapur Singh can be read out of the writing since he got this well repaired.[9] There are thus four historic Gurdwaras and many other gurdwaras including Gurdwara Singh Sabha in Hardwar.[10]

About 50 years ago when this writer first visited Gurdwara Nanakwara commemorating Guru Nanak’s stay at the place was controlled by an Udasi saint. This author spoke to him about the Gurdwara. The udasi Saint being an old person, was feeling weak hence requested that Sikhs must take over the Gurdwara. We agreed to meet SGPC authorities at Sri Amritsar and for take over of the Gurdwra by SGPC.However when this author along with the udasi saint contacted SGPC authorities they dillydallied and the Gurdwars could not be taken over. Later, when this author visited this gurdwara along with Turban Traveller, we found Gurdwara nanak bara converted into a Hindu Temple.. We questioned the occupants about the conversion but they were very agessive. To avoid a fight, we made a video of those who had converted it into a Hindu Mandir and circulated this video. Our live discussions with the illegal occupants of the Gurdwara had apeared on PTC and Simran Channels. However, nothing more could be done to restore the gurdwara so far.

Guru Nanak is also stated to have visited Kankhal but there is no imprint visible at this time at the place. Hwever there is a Gurdwara commemorating Guru Amar Das’s cisit to the place.

GURDWARA SRI GURU AMAR DAS (AT KANKHAL NEAR SATI GHAT) – HARIDWAR

The famous Hindu pilgrimage centre on the banks of Ganga River (the Ganges) was visited by several Gurus at different times, but the only historical Sikh shrine is the Gurdwara at Kankhal near Sati Ghat, three km south of Haridwar. It is dedicated to Guru Amar Das and is managed by Nirmala Sikhs

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Photo 11.7. Gurdwara Sri Amar Das Ji Hardwar

GURDWARA KOTDWAR, UP
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Photos 11.8 and 11.9 Gurdwara Guru Nanak Singh Sabha Kotdwar UP

Kotdwar is a tehsil in Pauri Garhwal district in Indian state of Uttarakhand. Its old name was KhohDwar, which means the gateway of the river Khoh. After a fort constructed around it was named as Kotdwar. It is located on the bank of river Khoh.. It is situated in the south-western part of state and is one of the main entrance points in the state of Uttarakhand. Kotdwar Railway station, established in 1890 by the Britishers is one of the oldest railway stations of the country. Being the gateway of Himalayan Region, Kotdwar rail route was used for timber transportation from Himalayan Region. First Passenger train ran in the year 1901.Kotdwar is famous for its several temples like the Sidhbali mandir which is situated at a distance of 2kms from Kotdwar. Sidhbali mandir is dedicated to Lord Hanuman and is visited by hundreds of believers all round the year. For Sikh pilgrims visiting the town, the holy bliss of gurudwara sahib ji can prove to be a perfect destination as it is blessed by Guru Nanak.[11] The climate of Kotdwar is generally temperate, although it varies from tropical; from hot in summers to severely cold.

GENDIKHATHA
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Photo 11.10. Gurdwara Baoli Sahib, Gendikhata

This is another established gurudwara in Gaindi Khata village that is 20 km from Haridwar (Uttarakhand). In 1508, Sri Guru Nanak Sahib Ji came to this place after visiting Nanakmatta, Kashipur, Kotdwar and Naziabad during the month of July-August. Guru Nanak Ji spent more than 3 months offering meditation here. Guru Nanak Ji presented a gift of Amrit in the form of a Baoli Sahib to the local Sangat. Even today pilgrims enjoy the water of the Baoli Sahib.
Gurudwara Sant Sagar Baoli Sahib is situated in the Village Gendikhatha, Distt Haridwar, Uttarakhand 20 km from Haridwar on Nazibabad Road. Guru Nanak Dev Ji came here after visiting Hardwar. From here he proceeded to Najibabad, Kotdwar and Meerut on his way to Delhi. Guru Nanak Dev Ji spent 3 months nd 13 days while doing meditation at gendikhata as told by the President of the Gurdwara. During these days Guru Nanak Dev Ji presented a gift of Amrit in the form of Bauli Sahib to the local people who even enjoy this blessings in the water of this Bauli Sahib. Gurudwara Sahib is situated on the Haridwar-Najibabad Road at the Bridge Toll Barrier. Dera pf It was also told that nearby on the banks of Ganga, a dera of Baba Sri Chand also existed. As we visited the Dera of baba Sri Chand, we were told that Guru nanak had v isited that place also, However, this could not be corrobated with any evidence.

According to Gyani Gian Singh and Dr Surinder Singh Kohli from Hardwar Guru Nanak returned towards Delhi via Kotdwar, Najibabad and Anupshahar in Uttarpradesh and Panipat in Haryana. There is a Gurdwara Charan Padka at Kotdwar to commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit. At Haldor in Bijnor district, there is a platform in the memory of the Guru. It is known as ‘Babe Nanak di Dheri’. The Sikhs have erected a Gurdwara near it. [12]

NAJIBABAD
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Photo 11.11. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Shahi Singh Sabha, Najibabad

Guru Nanak visited Najibabad from Kotdwar. The sewadar is a Bijnauri Sikh Sant Singh who does hard labour to earn his labour but does free service to the Gurdwara. He alo caters for food and lodging for the visitors from his own income. The land attached with the gurdwra has been cnsfiscat4ed by th Muslims. Gurwara in itself has no income. Bijnaur is the tehsil and district. [14]

HALDOR
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Photo 11.12. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Baag Haldor

From Najibabad Guru Nanak passed through Bijnore district. This district has about 22 villages of Bijnori Sikhs with 27 Singh Sabha Gurdwaras. These villages include Nakirpu, Paijnia, Khaspura, Rauh Nagli, Noorpur, Haldor etc. We were informed that Guru Nanak had stayed at Haldor in this district. Before we could reach Haldor, Sikhs from number of villages gathered on the route to welcome us. This was quite a touching scene since some old ladies even went as far as touching the feet of the team members. We reached at about 3.30 PM at Haldor. About 100 people from the village had gathered. The new Gurdwara Guru Nanak Baag Haldor building was constructed by Baba Bachan Singh Kar Sewa Wale. We were offered tea and samosas by the local sangat. The Bijnori Sikhs are better off than Sikligar and Wanjara Sikhs but education wise they too are comparatively disadvantaged from the local population. They requested for some Sikh college in the area so that their wards become employable in Government jobs. As I enquired from number of youth of the community, none of them was educated more than 12th class. Hoeever, they had started their own business and in this self employment most of them were earning around Rs 40,000 per month. It showed that the self-employed are relatively well off. Their business acumen appeared to be quite good.

History of Gurdwara Guru Nanak Baag Haldor as heard from the sangat, and as shown on the board states that ‘Guru Nanak came here in the garden bagichi in the pashuwada of the king Kanwal Nain. He gave discourses to the visiting people on One God of all, common brotherhood, equality among all and love for humanity. The king came to know from the people about Guru Nanak and visited him. He held discussions with the Guru and was much impressed by Guru Nanak’s discourses and requested him to stay. People projected the problem of water. Guru Nanak dug the earth and the water sprung. All the people were pleased and they became Guru Nanak’s followers. A small garden was the reminiscent of the event. When I asked about the well, they showed me the place where the well existed but it was closed by the management since it became disused over a time. I requested them to restore the well since it is the evidence of Guru Nanak’s travel to the place.

We were told that Haldor is a Municipal Locality. They were brought in this area by Baba Banda Singh Bahadur. There is likely hood that this area fell under Jathedar Baghail Singh who ruled the Khatauli principality. He captured this area and settled the Sikhs from Punjab, primarily from Hoshiarpur and Amritsar. They have now 22 villages and 27 Gurdwaras, some villages having two Gurdwaras. Haldor and Najababad are the two historical Gurdwaras in their area. Both of these commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit to the area.

It was getting late and we took leave from the sangat whose number swelled gradually. Our aim was to reach Najibabad tonight or alternatively Kashipur but the Sangat gathered all along the route had to be attended to. These were the villages of Sikhs and every one wanted us to go to their Gurdwara. We went to Noorpur Gurdwara which had a large gathering. The entire programme was video-graphed hence it took time for us to finish with the programme. It became too late by then hence at Noorpur our staying arrangements were made at a hotel belonging to a Sikh. Our dinner was arranged by a Sikh family which was too tasty. Night stay was quite comfortable.

MEERUT
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Photo 11.13. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Meerut

Our visit and stay agt Meerut has been quit memorable. I have read Dhanna Singh Chehal’s book Gur Tirath Cycle Yatra. He had visited Meerut on 26 March 1931 and writes about Guru Nanak’s visit to Meerut as follows: “Gurdwara Guru Nanak is one mile towards east on the Suraj Kund Sarovar. It was cosfrucred about 2-3- years ago (around 1900AD). A stone was found down under the place which had the name of Guru Nanak written on it. This stone was however lost aftere some time. Khanda Sahib was attached to the Nishan Sahib earlier but now the feathers of pea{censored}s are hung. The Gurdwara is under the control of Udasi saints. The Mahant is Sant Ram udasi who is not of god character and was jailed for 2 years for selling women. He is now out of prison. Gurdwara does not get much income; it is only of offerings. There are two Maharaj (copies of Sri Guru Granth Sahib. He has one follower to look after to him and a lady for cooking. She is known as lambardrni. Number o people visit the Gurdwara hese days.

Gorakh Nath came to this place wth a begging bowl. He was presented with half loaf and saag on it. Gorakh nath insisted for full loaf and threatened that if full loaf is not given he will burn the city. The women said,” Take half loadf and go off from here. Don’t threaten me. If you has such occult powers to burn the city then burn the city; I care two hoots. Guru Nanak is stated to be around then. When he came to know that Gorakh Nath is about to burn the city for a loaf, he mollified Gorakh Nath by relieving of the hunger. [14 ]

References

1. Shantershah Village in Roorkee (Hardwar) Uttarakhand | villageinfo.in
2. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirth Cycle Yatra (11 March 1930 to 26 June 1934) edited by Chetan Singh Publishers European Panjabi Sath, Walsall, U.K. 2016, p.153-154
3. Kirpal Singh (Dr.) Janam Sakhi Prampra, Punjabi University, Patiala, 1969, p.84
4. Surinder Singh Kohli (Dr.) Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjabi University, Chandigarh, 1978, p. 96
5 Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur, Guru Khalsa Twareekh, Lahore Book Shop, 1940 (3rd edn 1955), p.93
6 Dr. Surinder Singh Kohli p.96
7 Sujan Rai Bhandari, Khulast-ut-Twareekh, (Panjabi Translation) Punjabi University Patiala, 1972, p54-55
8. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirth Cycle Yatra (11 March 1930 to 26 June 1934) edited by Chetan Singh Publishers European Panjabi Sath, Walsall, U.K. 2016, p.155
9. Op Cit.
10. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirth Cycle Yatra (11 March 1930 to 26 June 1934) edited by Chetan Singh Publishers European Panjabi Sath, Walsall, U.K. 2016, pp. 155-156
11. Dhanna Singh Chehal, p.149
12. Travels of Guru Nanak, p.25-26
13. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirth Cycle Yatra (11 March 1930 to 26 June 1934) edited by Chetan Singh Publishers European Panjabi Sath, Walsall, U.K. 2016, p.152
14. Dhanna Singh Chehal, Gur Tirth Cycle Yatra (11 March 1930 to 26 June 1934) edited by Chetan Singh Publishers European Panjabi Sath, Walsall, U.K. 2016, p.155
 

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GURU NANAK IN DELHI


GURUDWARA SHRI NANAK PIAO SAHIB, DELHI
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Photo12. 1. Gurudwara Shri Nanak Piao Sahib, Delhi

Guru Nanak Dev visited Delhi alongwith Mardana during the reign of Sultan Sikandar Lodhi.Guru Nanak entered Delhi while coming from Hardwar. To protect themselves from scorching heat and for rest after long journey travellers used to stay here in the garden. Just as he was entering the suburban area from the west, he noticed some people sitting by the side of the road, tired and thirsty. Guruji drew water from the nearby well for the thirsty travelers.Guru Ji transformed a well into a midst of the garden into a place for distributing water to the travellers. Tired travellers used to get water and free Kitchen. Slowly and steadily people from Delhi started visiting him. What ever offering were made, were distrubitued to poor and needy or in the Guru Ji’s Langar. Sadhus and yogis came here and discussed with Guru Ji the various relegious issues. A memorial still exists around that well known as Gurdwara Nanak piao or Gurdwara Khui Sahib.[1].Gurudwara Nanak Piao Sahib Delhi also called Khuhi Sahib is situated near Sabzi Mandi on the Grand Trunk Road about 4 kos from Chandni Chowk, Lal Qila complex Delhi located on main highway to Karnal and Punjab. While Guru Nanak distributed water among the thirsty travelers and he gave spiritual discourses as well.[2] The word "Piao" mean to "offer liquid to drink" and refers to the offering of water to all the thirsty who visited this shrine. Guru Ji stopped here in a garden.

Impressed with Guru Ji’s personality, the Emperor Sikander Lodhi (1486-1517 AD) also visited the place. It is said that people flocked to the revered prophet and offered him and Bhai Mardana precious gifts and offerings. Guru Nanak used to distribute all these offerings to the poor and needy. Consequently, over time Gurdwara Nanak Pio attained a status of a holy and revered historical shrine. The garden surrounding the gurdwara became a place of pilgrimage for the people from all over Delhi. This is where they received the message of spiritual deliverance.It has a flat-roofed building within a walled compound. The main function of the year here is the death anniversary of Guru Nanak Dev.

GURUDWARA MAJNU KA TILLA, DELHI
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Photo 12.2. Gurudwara Majnu Ka Tilla, Delhi

While in Delhi Guru Nanak is said to have met a mendicant Majnu on 27 Asu Samwat. His intense yearning for a glimpse of God and lean physique famished with austerities had earned him the popular name Majnu after a lover of Persian folklore. Guru Nanak held long discourses with him and converted him to the path of balanced devotion to God rather than of renunciation and self-immolation. Majnu's hermitage thereafter became a missionary center of Sikh faith. Majnu loved all human beings equally hence was widely adored. During discussions with him Majnu was inspired by Guru’s teachings of One God of all and truthful living. He became disciple of Guru Nanak Dev. He was blessed by Guruji: “May this place be reverred by your name.” This palce was called ‘Majnu ka Tilla’ thereafter. Guru Ji’s company inspired in him blissfull innateness. Hazrat Nizamuddin Aulia also used to meet Guru Ji at this place and discuss divine discourses.

Gurdwara Majnu Tillais on the banks of Yamuna River near Chandraval village. The sanctum of Gurdwara Majnu Tilla is a small room with a globular dome above and a covered passage around it. Baisakhi festival is celebrated her (mid-April).

According to Janamsakhi Walait Wali [3] edited by Bhai Vir Singh, Guru Nanak stayed in Delhi among the elephant keepers.They looked after him well. Near this place, Guru found the elephant mahawats of the king found crying over a dead elephant. Guru made the elephant come to life. News spread that Guru Nanak has given life to a dead elephant. The king came to Guruji riding the elephant. He asked Guru Nanak: “Can you make the elephant dead now?” Guru Nanak said: “It is God alone who gives life and death; none else can do so.” It is written that the elephant died perchance. The King (Sikandar Lodhi 1486-15172AD) asked Guru Nanak to give life to the elephant again. Guru Nanak said: “The iron become red when put in fire. You cannot keep it on your hand even for a second. A saint when gets red in meditation, what he says happens. However he cannot change what God has done. Now God has taken his life; no one can change it.” The king reaslised the truth and asked Guruji to have some gift. Guru Nanak said: “I have the hunger of God’s Name and wish to see Him. I have no other desire”. The King left. Guru Nanak also moved further.

According to anoter version when Guru refused to revive the melephant he was put in prison.In the prison his deep compassion for the suffering of prisoners had a great moral and spiritual influence on the prison officials. They informed the Emperor that Guru Nanak was not an idolater and that as a saint he was greatly respected all the people including Hindus and Muslims.A strange thing happened during the imprisonment of Guru Nanak. A great earthquake shook the capital on July 3, 1505. According to a chronicler "the mountains were overturned and lofty edifices were dashed to the ground. The living thought the Day of Judgment had come and for dead the day of resurrection". Many thought that the new Faqir Nanak who had been imprisoned by the Emperor had cursed the King and the empire. This or some other equally strong influence like the intervention of the Chisti Sufi saints changed the mind of Emperor and he ordered the release of the Guru Nanak and at his request many other prisoners were released with the Guru. It is most likely that the Guruwon over the king with his hymns and got all other prisoners too released. [2] Later when Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji visited Delhi after he was released from Gwalior fort, on his way to Punjab he visited this place allong with released kings. Gurudwara Majnu Ka Tilla is situated on the outer ring road on the Bank of River Yamuna in the north of Chandani Chowk.

The management of al Delhi Gurdwaras was controlled by different mahants upto the time of advent of the Gurdwara Reform Movement in 1920, when steps were taken to bring them under Panthic control. A committee consisting of Sardar Dan Singh Vachhoa as Chairman, Sardar Gurdit Singh as Secretary and Sardar Harbans Singh Sistani was appointed by the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhar Committee to enter into negotiations with mahants and take over the management. Mahant Hari Singh of Gurdwara Sis Ganj Sahib was the first to hand over the Gurdwara and its property to the Committee on 19th December 1922. Other mahants except the Mahant of Majnu Tilla and Nanak Piau followed suit. The system of nomination to the local managing committee for Delhi Gurdwaras by the S.G.P.C. continued till 1937 when nomination by the S.G.P.C. in consultation with Sikh sangat of Delhi was introduced. In 1945, a separate Gurdwara Committee, Delhi was registered under the Societies Registration Act. This was superseded by the Delhi Sikh Gurdwara Management Committee established under Section 3 of the Delhi Sikh Gurdwaras Act, 1971 passed by the Parliament.

The metropolitan city of Delhi is connected with Sikh history not only because it was the highest seat of political power during the first 300 years of the life of the Sikh community, but also because five of the ten Sikh Gurus actually visited the city, which witnessed two of them ending their earthly life here. At least two dharmsals had come into existence (at Nanak Piau and .Majnu Tilla) during the time of the founder of the faith. A community of followers of Sikhism called Dilwali (abbreviated from Dilliwali) sangat lived in Kucha Dilwali Singhan near Ajmeri Gate at least since the middle of the seventeenth century. Mata Sundari and Mata Sahib Devan lived with this sangat for many years before they shifted temporarily to Mathura in 1725 Baba Banda Singh bahadur along with 700 Sikhs was martyred in Delhi. There are now nine historical Gurdwaras being managed by the Delhi Sikh Gurdwara Management Committee, a statutory body like the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee. [4]

References

1. Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr STravels of Guru Nanak, p. 22
2. Janamsakhi Walait Wali, edited by Bhai Vir Singh, p. 57-58
3. Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, March 2005, Gurdham Didar based on Mahan Kosh of Kahn Singh Nabha, p.246
4. Gurdwara Nanak Piao - Wikipedia
 

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Jul 22, 2023
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GURDWARA DAYALPUR HARYANA

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Gurdwara Nanaksar, Dayalpur, District Faridabad, Haryana

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Nanaksar Sarovar Dayalpur, District Faridabad

Village Dayalpur is 25 miles (40km) from Delhi and 5 miles (8km) from Balabgarh. It is in Faridbad district and Balabhgarh Tehsil. Dayalpur has a total area of 760 hectares and a population of 7,350 peoples, in 1,368 houses. Pincode of dayalpur village locality is 121004.[1] Gurudwara Nanaksar Santpura Patshahi Pehli te Chhevin commemorates the visit of Guru Nanak and Guru Hargobind to this place . It is famous by the name Nanaksar Sarovar [2]. The people of the village, though not baptised Sikhs, have a great faith in the Gurdwara. Guru Nanak had come from Delhi and sat under a peepal tree. Now there are many peepal trees in the area. Later Guru Hargobind Sahib also came to this place once released from Gwalior Jail. The village folk requested the 6th Guru that the water in the area was brakish and unhealthy for consumption. Guru Ji shot three arrows and the water sprung from a new place. This place was converted into a well and the usable water was then used by the people for drinking. The water of this well is sweet. A village has come up at the place near the well and a Gurdwara was constructed at the place. The Gurdwara is the most important place of worship for the local folk and a fair is regularly held at the place. When Dhanna Singh Chehal visited this place a sadhu used to perform the Gurdwara rituals.[2] Now the Gurdwara is looked after well versed Pathis, Granthis and Kirtanias and the regular parkash of Sri Guru Granth Sahib is performed.

References
1.Dayalpur Village in Ballabgarh (Faridabad) Haryana | villageinfo.in
2.Dhanna Singh Chehal, p.100

 

dalvinder45

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TRAVEL AONGSIDE GANGA AND YAMUNA

At the times of Guru Nanak’s travels in the 15th and 16th centuries, major route to the East from North India was along major rivers Ganga and Yamuna. Major cities located on Ganga are Rishikesh, Hardwar, Kanpur, Allahabad, Varanansi, Mirzapur, Ghazipur, Patna, Mungher, Bhagalpur, Behrampur, and Kolkatta. After it joined Padma, Dacca was the key port. Guru Nanak has travelled all these places. This indicates that he has used the river route too; either walking or going by ship and boats as per the sources available. Major cities along Yamuna were Mathura, Vrindivan and Agra.

The ships and boats occasionally stopped at key locations and Guru Nanak visited these key cities. Puratan Janamsakhi mentions of Guru Nanak's visit along Ganga River to Hardwar (p.52-55) and Banaras (55-57). Gyani Gian Singh in Twareekh Khalsa Part I mentions of Hardwar (p. 99), Koel (Aligarh) Kanpur, Paryag (Allahabad) Mirzapur (p.103), Kashi (Banaras) (p. 103-105), Village Pusa (p.105) Jaunpur, Chhapra, Aarah, Buxar (p.106), Patna (p.106-109), Mungher, Sahib Ganj, Raj Mahal, Malda (p.113), Maqsoodabad, Krishnanagar, Shahzadpur, Sirazganj, Kashganj (p.115), Manakganj, Devipur, Dacca (p.115) and Dhanpur (p.116-117) According to ‘Travels of Guru Nanak’ by Dr Surinder Singh Kohli [5], the cities travelled by Guru Nanak along with Ganga include Badri Nath- Kedar Nath, Dhrasu, Srinagar Garhwal, Rishikesh, Hardwar, Bijnor, Kanpur, Allahabad, Banaras, Mirzapur, Buxur, Arra, Chhapra, Patna, Hajipur, Mongher, Bhagalpur, Sahib Ganj, Raajmahal, Malda, Murshidabad, Kasganj, Navdip, Krishnanagar, Faridpur, Dacca and Dhanpur. Out of these, journey to Badri Nath-Kedara Nath, Dharasu, Srinagar Garhwal, Rishikesh, Hardwar, Bijnor and Kanpur is stated to have been performed on foot while journey from Allahbad to Banaras, Mirzapur, Buxur, Arra, Chhapra, Patna, Hajipur, Mongher, Bhagalpur, Sahibganj, Rajmahal, Malda, Murshidabad, Kasganj, Navdip, Krishnanagar, Fardipur and Dacca is stated in to be on ships and boats as mentioned in Janamsakhi Bhai Bala.[6] Dr Trilochan Singh in Jeevan Charitar Guru Nanak Dev Ji mentions Guru ji having visited Hardwar (p.122-123), Allahabad (p.1367-137), Banaras (137-148), Patna (152, 155-158), Raj Mahal (p. 159) Malda (p. 159-160), Murshidabad (p.p.162), Godagiri, Gopalpur, Krshanganj, Pabna, (p.162) and Dacca (163-164).

As per Giani Gian Singh, Giani Lal Singh Sangrur and Dr. Surinder Singh Kohli, the places connected to the visit of Guru Nanak in Uttar Pradesh are Koel (Aligarh) Etawah, Kanpur, Lucknow, Ayodhya, Paryag (Allahabad), Mirzapur (p.103), Kashi (Banaras) (p. 103-105), Village Pusa (p.105) and Chanderauli while proceeding to east and Jhansi, Mathura, Brindaban while returning during the first itinerary.

Dhanna Singh Chehal mentions Srinagar, Najibabad, Muradabad, Pilibheet, Nanak Mata, Reetha Sahib, Lucknow, Kanpur, Baithoor, Ayudhya, Nazarbagh, Allahabad, Nizamabad, Azamgarh, Mirzapur, Benaras, Gorkhpur, Brahm Kund (Tirth Raj Ghat), Mirzapur, Sayyad Raja Kasba, Gaya, Rajgir, Patna (Gau Ghat and Pachhmi Darwaza area), Barh, Mokammah, Baijnath, Hazari Baag, Mungher, Bhagalpur, Lachhmipur, Kolkatta, Mednipur, Dhakka (Barchha Sahib and Charan Paduka), Chittagaon (Sita Kund), Syllhat, Agartala and Dhubri, These places were personally verified by Dhanna Singh Chehal by visiting these. (pp.115-152)

Hence, from all evidence available, Guru Nanak travelled along Yamuna from Delhi and along Ganga upto Dhaka in Bangla Desh. One of the major events at Patna was the establishment of a Manji at Patna which was first held by Salas Rai and then by his servant Adharka. From Patna, he left for Bisiar Des, an island in sea…. and moved on water’ [1] The Janamsakhi mentions the place as Bishambarpur. [2] He travelled in water for fifteen days and fifteen nights surviving on air to reach Bisiar Des. [3]. Bisiar Des is stated to be Manipur by Dr Surinder Singh Kohli [4] and Dr Tarlochan Singh [5]. It showed that Guru Nanak travelled in the river Ganges from Patna, entering Padma, visiting Dhaka and later moving through Meghna to reach Manipur.
 

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Chapter XIV

IN UTTRAPRADESH AGAIN
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Map 14.1 Guru Nanak in Uttar Pradesh

The travel by this author and on groud verification done by Turban Traveller and a Bangalore Engineer, have found the route of Guru Nanak’s travel in First udasi after Delhi through Dayalpur, Vrindivan, Mathura,Agra, Etawah, Kanpur to be more plausible hence studied in detail further.

GURDWARA GURU NANAK TILA VRINDAVAN
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Map 14.2 Map of Vrindavan and Mathura Photo 14.1 Gurdwara Nanak Tila Vrindvan.

Ftrom Dayalpur Guru Nanak visited Vrindavan. Vrindavan is a historic town of Hindu Vaishanva tradition having a spiritual touch of Lord Krishna and his devotees of all the ages including Chaitanya and Mira Bai. Religious personalities, scholars, researchers, students, tourists often visited the town because of its historic importance. In the begininning of 16th century Guru Nanak started his Udasis (religious tours) to spread the message of God to the mankind. Guru Nanak came to Brindavan and sat on a Tilla, a high mound. What he saw and listened at the place he recorded it in a Pothi, a holy book later known as Guru Granth Sahib. He said:

He said:"The Saam Ved says that the Lord Master is clothed in white; In the age of Truth, all desired Truth, remained in Truth and merged with Truth. Rig Ved says that God pervades everywhere; the Name of Lord is most exalted among the deities. Nanak says: by chanting. the Name, sins depart; and the human beings get salvation. In Jajur Veda, Kahn Krishna of the Yaadva tribe forcibly seduced Chandraavali. He brought the Elysian tree to the milkmaid and enjoyed in Vrindaaban. In KalYuga, the dark age, the Atharv Ved rose to prominence; Allah became the name of God. Men began to wear blue dresses and clothes; Turks and Pathans took over. All four Veds claim to be true. There are four lessons to be learnt from reading and studying them. Salvation is attained by loving devotional worship and abiding in humility. Nanak says “I am an offering to the True Guru; Meeting him, I came to like the Lord Master. He taught me and gave me the healing salvation of spiritual wisdom, and with these eyes I see the world. Those merchants who leave their Lord and Master and cling to another will perish. The true Guru is like a boat to cross over, but few are those who understand it. Out of His mercy He transports them across." (SGGS, s. 470).

It is said that the mound, where Guru Nanak Dev Ji stayed, was in the possession of the ancestors of Thakur Peetambar Sinh who donated it to the Sikhs. The small Gurdwara on the mound was managed by Singh Sabha committee of Mathura. In 1975 the affairs of the Gurdwara came under the control of Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, Sri Amritsar who managed its affairs through a local committee. Now S. Barjinder Singh of Brindavan is taking keen interest in its day-to-day affairs and the present building came into existence by his efforts whose inauguration ceremony was held on 20 September 2015 as per Sikh customs.[14.1}

MATHURA:

After visiting Vrindavan, Guru Nanak reached Mathura, another very important religious place where Sri Krishna spent his early life. Mathura is a historical city in the state of Uttar Pradesh. The city was sacked and looted and many of its temples destroyed in 1018 by Mahmud of Ghazni and again by Sikandar Lodhi, who ruled the Delhi Sultanate from 1489 to 1517. Mathura was visited by the first, sixth, ninth and (possibly) tenth Sikh gurus. Located 150 km south of Delhi, Mathura is a well-known holy place for Hindus. There are three historic Gurdwaras here, Gudwara Nanak Bagichi is dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev ji and the other two are associated with Guru Tegh Baahdur. [14.2]

GURDWARA NANAK BAGICHI, MATHURA
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Photo 14.2 Gurdwara Nanak Bagichi Mathura

Gudwara Nanak Bagichi (Guru Nanak’s small garden) is situated on the right bank of Yamuna near Masani Railway Station between Mathura and Vrindavan. It is dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev who visited Mathura and Vrindavan during the month long Shravan fair held in the Bikrami month of savan (July-August).Bagichi literally means small garden. As the water of the river Yamuna is muddy and unsuitable for drinking during Sawan, Guru Nanak was told that the place was not suitable for staying. The water in the wells of the area was brackish (unfit for drinking). However, Guru Nanak asked Mardana to fetch water from the nearest well and it was found to be sweet. Guru Nanak established a Piau (drinking water stall) there and himself supplied fresh water to the pilgrims of the city. Guru Nanak is believed to have stayed here for three months. A childless couple Mohan and his wife Sita Bai served him and were blessed with a son.

A Gurdwara was constructed here to commemorate Guru Nanak's stay here. This was preserved by the Udasi priests for a long time. In the 1950s it was taken over by the Mathura Singh Sabha and in 1975 it was handed over to Sant Sadhu Singh Muni for reconstruction. It now has a hall with a square vaulted ceiling and a porch in front, in addition to several rooms for staff and pilgrims. A side water tank with taps marks the Piao of Guru Nanak Dev Ji. [14.3]

Two more Gurdwaras; Gurdwara Singh Sabha and Gurdwara Gau Ghat commemorate Guru Tegh Bahadur’s visit to the city. A Gurdwara in memory of Guru Hargobind’s visit which earlier was located in the house of a Chaube (Brahman Priest) is no longer traceable. [14.3][14.4]
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14.3 Gurdwara Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Mathura

Gurdwara Guru Tegh Bahadur, Sri Guru Singh Sabha is located behind Tilak Dwar in the Old City, opposite the General Post Office on Guru Tegh Bahadur Marg. Guru Tegh Bahadur preceded via Mathura to Agra, then an alternate capital of the Mughal emperors. The site then was called Karis Tilla. Guru Tegh Bahadur stayed here for three days. A small modest Gurdwara was constructed and served as a memorial to the guru's visit here. It was maintained by the Udasis until the early 1940s when it came under the control of Mathura Sikhs. A new two-storied building was constructed and the Sikh soldiers of the Mathura garrison contributed generously with money and labour.

Since then, buildings have been added and today the Gurdwara is a compact structure with many two-story rooms around a paved courtyard. The first floor has a rectangular entrance hall with verandas to the front and rear, accessed by a wide staircase covered with white marble tiles. Guru Tegh Bahadur Adarsh Vidyalaya, which has classes from Montessori to eighth standard, is also located on site. In August 1977, a museum with images of Sikh history was established in one room. Registered as Sri Guru Singh Sabha, the Gurdwara is managed by a local committee.

GURDWARA GAU GHAT SAHIB MATHURA
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14.4 Gurdwara Gau Ghat Sahib Mathura

Gurdwara Sri Gau Ghat Sahib Mathura is located near the west bank of the river where Guru Tegh Bahadur is said to have taken his morning bath. The Gurdwara is still run by Udasi Sikhs. There was another Gurdwara there. According to Bhai Kahn Singh's Mahan Koshi, this Gurdwara was built to commemorate the visit of Guru Hargobind sahib. It is said to be in the residence of Chaube (a Brahmin), who can no longer be traced. [14.5]

AGRA

Agra is famous for the Taj Mahal. It is located 55 kilometers south of Mathura. Fateh Pur Sikri, the former capital of Akbar, is about 200 km from Delhi and 55 km from Mathura. It was the alternate capital of the Mughal emperors from the time of Akbar. Agra became famous during the Mughal period when it became the capital. Also, because of the Mughal glory epitomized by the world-famous Taj Mahal, Agra has become such an important tourist destination. Visitors are also impressed by the grandeur of this fort.

The Sikh sangat was also here because Guru Nanak Dev visited there in the early 16th century. Guru Ramdas is also stated to have visitd the place. Guru Hargobind is said to have passed through this place after leaving Gwalior Fort. The eminent Sikh Scholar Bhai Gurdas is said to have preached Sikhism here for some time. Guru Tegh Bahadur visited it on his journey to the east. He came here again shortly before his arrest and execution in November 1675. It was there that Emperor Bahadur Shah formally received Guru Gobind Singh in court in July 1707. He remained here until he left with Bahadur Shah for Rajputana and thence for the Deccan. There are many historical Gurdwaras in Agra. Two Gurdwaras, Gurdwara Mai Than and Gurdwara Dukh Niwaran Sahib Loha Mandi commemorate Guru Nanak's visit to the place. Two historic shrines, one within the city limits and the other outside, are associated with Guru Tegh Bahadur. [14.6] Guru Gobind Singh is also stated to have visited Agra with Bahadur Shah.

GURUDWARA MAI THAN SAHIB, AGRA
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14.5. Gurdwara Mai Than, Agra

Guru Nanak Dev Ji visited Agra from Mathura. and blessed the country with his visit. At that time, Agra was just a small village. Here lived a beautiful young woman named Jassi, (Mai Sejo accoding to Dhanna Singh Chehal, p101) [14.7] who was like Meeran Bai, totally dedicated and remained in the saintly company of Bairagi sadhus.[1][14.8] She worshipped the idol of Lord Krishna as her husband. She decorated herself, danced before the idol singing. She kept herself busy in worshipping and mesditation but her mind was not at peace. All the time she prayed to the God to have a glimpse of Him. By God’s Grace Guru Nanak reached and stayed in her garden. Hearing Guru Nanak’s arrival and his praises she came to pay obeisance to him. She however, considered herself better than others. Having seen her present Guru Nanak sang a hymn in Tilang Rag (p. 722):

O foolish and ignorant soul-bride, why are you so proud? Within the home of your own self, why do you not enjoy the Love of your Lord? Your Husband Lord is so very near, O foolish bride; why do you search for Him outside? Apply the Fear of God as the maascara to adorn your eyes, and make the Love of the Lord your ornament. Then, you shall be known as a devoted and committed soul-bride, when you enshrine love for your Husband Lord. What can the silly young bride do, if she is not pleasing to her Husband Lord? She may plead and implore so many times, but still, such a bride shall not obtain the Mansion of the Lord’s Presence. Without the karma of good deeds, nothing is obtained, although she may run around frantically. She is intoxicated with greed, pride and egotism, and engrossed in Maya. She cannot obtain her Husband Lord in these ways; the young bride is so foolish! Go and ask the happy, pure soul-brides, how did they obtain their Husband Lord? Whatever the Lord does, accept that as good; do away with your own cleverness and self-will. By His Love, true wealth is obtained; link your consciousness to His lotus feet. As your Husband Lord directs, so you must act; surrender your body and mind to Him, and apply this perfume to yourself. So speaks the happy soul-bride, O sister; in this way, the Husband Lord is obtained. Give up your selfhood, and so obtain your Husband Lord; what other clever tricks are of any use? When the Husband Lord looks upon the soul-bride with His Gracious Glance, that day is historic — the bride obtains the nine treasures. She who is loved by her Husband Lord, is the true soul-bride; O Nanak, she is the queen of all. Thus she is imbued with His Love, intoxicated with delight; day and night, she is absorbed in His Love. She is beautiful, glorious and brilliant; she is known as truly wise. (p.722)

Having heard the rythmic finely tuned and related to her problem hymn sung by Guru Nanak, she fell on Guru’s feet. She was well versant with ‘sur-taal’ and was keen to meet a true Saint. She got so tuned to the ‘Great God’ that she forgot her own existence. From that day she left idol worship and became earnest devotee of Guruji and started preaching his teaching. Her house became the center of teaching of Sikhism. To provide her further experience Guru Nanak stayed there for ten days. The sangat went on increasing and the place became famous as Mai Than.

Mai Jassi was visited by Guru Ramdas, Bhai Gurdas, Guru Hargobind ji and Guru Tegh Bahadur later

People requested Guru Tegh Bahadur for availability of pure and clean water, as water of Agra was not fit for drinking. On hearing this Mata Jassi took sangat's plea Guruji laid the foundation of well which was later completed with the help of Sangat. This holy well is still present in the premises of Gurudwara Sahib.

Mata Jassi met Guruji second time when Guruji reached Agra for courting arrest on hearing the plea of Kashmiri Pandits. Mata Ji expressed Guruji her fear that as she thought that her last days were near and as she didn't have any heir, her name will have no existance after death. Guruji told her that those who have heirs, there name is carried forward only till two or three generations, but those who have earned devotees and are connected to God, their name last forever. Guruji told here that you have been blessed to meet Guru Nanak Dev Ji and have been true to your relegion all your life. So till the date Guru Nanak Dev Ji's name is followed by the world, you will also be remembered in Sikh History. [14.9] Gurdwara Mai Than commemorates Guru Nanak’s and Guru Tegh Bahadur’s visits. Guru Nanak visited Mai Jassi on 4 Bhadron Samwat 1566 and gave the spiritual message.[14.9] Sikh sangat has been existing since Guru Nanak’s visit. Sikandara commemorates Guru Tegh Bahdur’s visit to the place.[14.10]

Gurdwara Mai Than is located in a narrow street near Ghatia Chowk in a ward which is also named Mai Than Mohalla after the Gurdwara. Here was the house of a devoted Sikh lady, Mai Jassi, (Dhanna Singh Chehal writes as Mai Sejo) who had long cherished a desire to see the Guru and present to him a length of cloth made from cotton yarn spun by herself. Guru Tegh Bahadur also visited her at her house shortly before his arrest in 1675 and accepted her offering. It is a three-storey building with the sanctum in a spacious hall on the ground floor, where Guru Granth Sahib is seated in a canopied seat of white marble. Rooms on the upper floors are available to staff and pilgrims for administrative and residential purposes. The Gurdwara is registered as Sri Guru Singh Sabha and is administered by Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Central Board, a registered body. On meeting Guru Ji she asked him the way to meet God and Guru Ji answered her with his holy thoughts. She was so much inspired by Guru Ji's teaching that from the day itself she left idol worship & become earnest Devotee of Guru Ji and started preaching his teachings. Her home become the Centre of teachings of Sikhism,

During the period of the third Guru on the instructions of Guru Amardas, Guru Ram Das Ji and Bhai Gurdas Ji, the epitome of Sikhism came here. According to available records, the fourth Guru Sri Ram Das and Bhai Gurdas stayed in Agra when Sri Guru Amar Das assigned them the important task of representing Sikhism at the court of Akbar on Akbar’s bidding. The devoted female disciple of Guru Nanak Mai Jassi invited Guru Ram Das and Bhai Gurdas to her house. Bhai Gurdas preached Sikhism here during his two-year stay at the home of Mata Jassi Ji (Gurudwara Mai Than) and wrote Kavitt and Swaiye. Mai Jassi also got a chance to meet the Sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind Sahib Ji. She lived upto 175 years when she met the Ninth Guru, Sri Tegh Bahadur visited Agra on his way to Patna too. While meeting Guru Ji, Mata Ji expressed her fear because she thought that her last days were near and because she only had no heir, there would be no future of her name. To this Guruji replied that the names of those who have heirs are handed down only for one or two generations, but the name of those who are serious worshippers and attached to God lasts forever. Guru Ji said; You are blessed to meet Guru Nanak Dev Ji. and you have been faithful to your religion all your life, so that until the day the world proclaims Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s name, you will be remembered in Sikh history. Mata Ji then asked Guru ji that the charity done by the heirs reaches their ancestors in heaven after their death, but since I have nothing, won't I get something in heaven? Guru Ji replied that with the teachings of Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji all the work you do will be repaid to you and your home will be known as a holy place on your name. Her house has now become a shrine and is known as Gurdwara Mai Than. Sangat gathers here in laarge numbers. The Gurdwara is located on a narrow street near Ghatia Chowk in a ward also called Mai Than Mohalla after the name of the Gurdwara. Here was the house of the devout Sikh woman, Mai Jassi. She had become quite old some record say of 175 years . After meeting Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Guru Ram Das Ji, Guru Hargobind she now desired to see Guru Tegh Bahadur and to give him a cloth of cotton thread spun by herself. Guru Tegh Bahadur visited her just before his arrest in 1675 and accepted the offer. During Guru tgh bahadur’s stay, he was requested by the Agra dwellers for a well. Guru Tegh Bahadur laid the foundations of a well made through the volunteer service of the devotees. This well exists till date and has sweet and pure drinking water for the devotees thronging to the Gurudwara. [14.11]

A Gurdwara by the name Mai Than was constructed to commemorate the visits of the Gurus. It is a three-storied building with a sanctum sanctorum in a spacious hall on the first floor, where the Sri Guru Granth Sahib is established under a white marble canopy. The rooms on the upper floors are available to staff and pilgrims for both administrative and residential purposes. The Gurdwara is registered as Sri Guru Singh Sabha and is managed by Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Central Board, a registered body. Address: City Station Rd, Neel Kanth Mahadev Mohalla, Garhia Azam Khan, Civil Lines, Agra, Uttar Pradesh 282007, Phone: 094122 62900 [14.12]

GURUDWARA SHRI DUKHNIWARAN SAHIB, AGRA
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14.6 Gurudwara Dukhniwaran Sahib, Agra

Gurudwara Dukhniwaran Sahib, Agra is situated in the Nayabaans, Lohamandi, Old Agra City, Uttar Pradesh. Its situated in the Nayabaans, Lohamandi Agra. Guru Nanak Dev stayed for three days in Anta Ka Bagh during his Udaasi (journey) to the East. He meditated sitting under the Pilu tree located here. Now Nishan Sahib is in the place of the tree. There are foot prints of Guru's feet peserved at this place. The Guru treated the children of a woman here. Because of this, the place was named Gurudwara Dukh Nivaran Sahib. Though the garden is no more but Gurdwara Dukh Niwaran commemorates the event. Guru Ji preached the benefits of Naam Simran (to meditate on God's Name) to the congregation under this Peelu tree (Botanical Name : Salvadoroleoides} . A fair is organized on Holi, in the memory of Peelu Vale Baba, i.e Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji. . It is situated in the Nayabaans, Loha Mandi part of Agra. and can only be reached on foot through narrow alleys. Autos howver can be used o reach this place but not the cars, buses or trucks. [14.13]

GURDWARA SRI GURU TEGH BAHADUR, SIKANDRA

Old sources mention the existence of a shrine in a garden outside Agra, marking the spot where Guru Tegh Bahdur offered himself for arrest. This site had become obscure until traced and revived with the construction of the present magnificent Gurdwara near Sikandra, north of Agra by Sant Sadhu Singh Mauni during the 1970s. [14.14]

GURDWRA GURU KA TAAL AGRA
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14.7 Gurdwara Guru Ka Taal Agra


Guru ka Tal is the next most important pilgrimage destinations for the Sikhs in Agra.. It is located close to Sikandra (famous for the Akbar tomb) and is associated with an important episode in the history of Sikhism. This gurudwara was built in memory of Guru Teg Bahadur Ji and is visited by lakhs of devotees every year to pay respects and seek blessings. The spot where the gurudwara stands today is the place where the ninth Guru, Teg Bahadur Ji, offered himself up for arrest to Aurangzeb, the Mughal emperor of India. It is said the Guru Tegh bahadur Ji came to Agra and offered himself voluntarily to the authorities in Agra. A financially hard up Muslim sheep herder met the Guru and prayed for help. The Guru gave him his ring and a shawl for purchasing groceries. These were recognisedby thegrocer whoinformed the police which arrested the Guru. This is how Guru Sahib offered his voluntary arrest to help the destitute. After arrest Guru Sahib was kept in confinement for 9 days at this place. After his confinement at Agra he was taken to Delhi The place where Guru Sahib came initially and rested is the place where now Gurudwara Manji Sahib at Gurudwara Guru Ka Tal stands. Taal meaning a water reservoir constructed during the Jehangir era. Not much of the old construction exists now except a few Chattris.The structure dates back to the 17th century and is originally believed to have been a water reservoir (hence the name taal). According to various historical sources, the water reservoir was built around 1610 AD during the reign of Jahangir to conserve water during the rainy season. However, after the surrender of the Guru, a gurudwara was constructed in its place in his honor. Apart from the Sikhs, it is also visited by tourists in general because of its tranquillity and historical importance. This gurudwara also stands out from the other ones due to its massive size.

Gurudwara Guru Ka Taal, shares a similarity with other Mughal-era structures in terms of its overall architecture. The use of red sandstone in its construction also enhances that similarity. The structure originally consisted of twelve towers, out of which only eight have survived to this day.

ETAWAH
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14.8 Gurdwara Poorvi Tola, Etawa

While going to Kanpur and Lucknow, the Guru passed through Etawah. Etawah (26° 47`N, 78° 58`E), a district town of Uttar Pradesh, 127 km southeast of Agra, has two Udasi Ashrams commemorating the visits of Guru Nanak and Baba Sri Chand. There is a Gurdwara at Etawah, but no memorials at the two places. [14.15] Sikh chronicles have not recorded these visits, but they do mention that Guru Tegh Bahadur while travelling to the east passed through Etawah. He is believed to have stayed at the place where Udasi Ashram exists inside the town. The ashram is now known as Gurdwara Purabi Tola, also referred to locally as Bara Sangat. Located inside the town near the courts and the Kotwali (police station), it is popularly called Bari Sangat (lit. the larger congregation). The form of worship of the Udasi priests who control the Shrine is nearer to Hindu than a Sikh liturgy, but Guru Granth Sahib printed in Devnagri script is seated in a pavilion in one of the numerous courtyards. It is opened in the morning and closed in the same way and with the similar respect as is done in Sikh Gurudwaras. A copy of Guru Granth Sahib in Gurmukhi script is kept wrapped up in a small room nearby, because few priests of the present generation can read it. The Gurdwara is open to outsiders only during the day. Several Sahajdhari Sikhs come to bow before it in the morning and evening everyday. [14.16][14.17][14.18]

References Chapter 14


14.1 Surinder Singh Kohli, Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, 1990, p.164-165, SGGS, s. 470.
14.2. Surinder Singh Kohli, Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, 1990, p.164-165
14.3. Op cit p.165
14.4 Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p.133 4 Bhadron Samvat 1566 Bikrami nu Agre a thahire. Uthon ik Mai Jassi nam jano dooji Meeran bai si, satsang us nun Bairagi faqiran da si.
14.5.https://www.discoversikhism.com/sikh_gurdwaras/gurdwara_sri_guru_nanak_sahib_bagichi.htm
14.6. Tarlochan Singh Dr. Biography Guru Nanak
14.7. Dhanna Singh Chehal, p.101
14.8. Tara Singh, Sri Guru Tirath Sangrahi. Amritsar, n.d.
14.9.Thakar Singh, Giani, Sri Gurduare Darshan. Amritsar, 1923.
14.10. Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, March 2005, Gurdham Didar based on Mahan Kosh of Kahn Singh Nabha, p.248
14.11. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.315)
14.12.http://www.historicalgurudwaras.com/India/UttarPradesh/Agra/GurudwaraShriMaiThaanSahibAgra/ gallery.php
14.13. HistoricalGurudwaras.com, a Journey to Historical Gurudwara Sahibs
14.14. HistoricalGurudwaras.com, a Journey to Historical Gurudwara Sahibs
14.15.Randhir Singh, Udasi Sikhan dii Vithia. Chandigarh, 1972
14.16. ETAWAH - The Sikh Encyclopedia
14. 17 Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.315
14.18. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University, Chandigarh, p.27


Continued
 

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KANPUR
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14.9 Gurdwara Guru Nanak Sabha Kanpur

In Kanpur, A Gurdwara of first and Ninth Guru exists on Saariya Ghat on the banks of Ganga. This Gurdwara is in control of Udasi saints. Sri Guru Granth Sahib is recited there. Some land is also attached to the Gurdwara There are not arrangements for food and lodging. When mahant was asked about the visit of the Gurus he replied in the negative but on the name of Guru Nanak Sabha shows and also as enquired from others the Gurus definitely visited the place.[14.19] Guru Nanak dev ji came here from Etawah and went to Lucknow as per information available from other sources.

LUCKNOW
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14.5. Historical Gurdwara Guru Nanak Dev ji, Lucknow
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14.6 Gurdwara Nanak Niwas Naka Lucknow

Guru Nanak is stated to have visited Lucknow as well. According to Dhana Singh Chehal Patshahi Pehli, Nauvin ate Dasvin have visited Lucknow.[14.20] Mohalla Ahya ganj has a Gurdwars commemorating Guru Gobind Singh’s visit. He is said have given a Sri Sahib to Bhagat Bhagat a famous Udasi saint with whom he stayed.

References
14.19. Dhanna Singh Chehal p. 141
14.20. Dhanna Singh Chehal p. 142
 

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ALLAHABAD

Allahabad is situated near the confluence (sangam) of rivers Ganga and Yamuna.Gurdwara Tap Asthan (Pakki Sangat) - Allahabad is situated near the confluence of the River Ganga and Yamuna, which is sacred to the Hindus as Triveni Sangam (lit. confluence of three rivers) in the belief that a third invisible river Sarasvati also meets the Ganges here. Guru Nanak Dev visited Allahabad, then called Prayag. Later Guru Tegh Bahadur stayed here for some time. Gurudwara Tap Asthan (Pakki Sangat) Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji in Mohalla Ahiyapur marks the site where the Guru stayed in the house of a devotee.

GURDWARA PAKKI SANGAT ALLAHABAD
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14.15. Gurdwara Pakki Sangat Allahabad Entry Gate
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14.16. Gurdwara Pakki Sangat Allahabad

The building was reconstructed by Mahant Pritam Singh in 1965 and stands about four feet above the street level. The sanctum is a flat-roofed rectangular congregation hall at the far end of a spacious square compound entered through a double-storey gateway. Guru Granth Sahib is seated on a canopied throne of white marble. One of the side rooms adjacent to the congregation hall represents the Guru's bedroom during his stay here. Two double-storey blocks of rooms, one on either side of the courtyard, provide residential accommodation to staff and visitors.[14.21]

MIRZAPUR
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14.17. Gurdwara Mirzapur

Mirzapur is district town along the Grand Trunk Road on the right bank of the Ganga. It is also a railway station on the Delhi-Kanpur- Mughal Serai section of Northern railway. Mirzapur was visited by Guru Nanak Dev and Guru Tegh Bahddur. A Sikh Sangat existed here when the latter passed through the town during 1666. Now it is called Shri Nirmal Sangat, in association of Nirmala Sikhs. It is located at Narayan Ghat near the river bank also called Pakka Ghat. Guru Granth Sahib is also seated in a room adjacent to the mahant's house. Its present building was inaugurated on Guru Nanak Dev's birth anniversary in 1935. [14.22]

BANARAS (VARANASI)

Banaras is famous as a Hindu pilgrimage Centre; place of saints and as a Centre of classical learning. Also called Shivpuri, Kashi, and Varanasi, it is the one of the holiest and one of major centre of Hinduism. Kabir was dweller of this place and he had discussion on Gurmat with various religious scholars. The local scholars were self centered and corrupt. For the sake of worldly attaintments they misguided the people from divine path. These scholars were idol worshippers, donation seekers, casteist, worshipper of human gods and propagated many other irreligious thoughts.They preached costly rituals to squeeze the public of their money. They had become famous as Benaras ke Thugg and Benaras as Fort of irreligion. Bhagats Kabir and Ravidas and other saints raised voice against these scholars and their rituals. Bhagats Kabir and Revidas, whose bani (compositions) forms part of the Sikh Scripture, lived here.
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14.18. The Ganges In Varnasi
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14.19. Gurdwara Guru ka Baag Benaras

Guru Nanak reached Benaras from Allahabad and sat on the bank of Ganges. Gurudwara Guru ka Bag is situated in District City Benaras in Uttar pradesh, on Guru Nanak Dev road in old city of Benaras. Guru Nanak Dev also preached Divine Name and One God when he went there on the occasion of Shivratri fair (February-March) in 1503 AD and held religious discourses with Brahaman scholars and sadhus of different denominations. Guru Nanak Dev came here on the eve of Shivratari and stopped in a Garden. Bhai Mardana asked Guru ji about the ownership of the garden. Guruji answered: This garden belongs to God assigned temporarilyto His being,who will soon appear. He asked Mardana to play rebec. Bhai Mardana started playing rebec while Guru not recited a hymn. The whole atmosphere was under the influence of Bani. A Religious Scholar, Pundit Gopal Das who was an idol worshipper, worshipped Shivalingam and worebeads of tulsi and observed many ritualistic practices, listened to sacred hymn of Guruji and came to him and heldreligious discourse with him. He questioned on his way of religious life which was logically disapproved by Guru ji, as he was attached to temporal aspect rather then to the spiritual one. Guruji advised him to understand various aspects of soul and to control five evils which have overpowered his soul. He asked him to purify heart and soul and understand the Divine in him.God could be attained from inside rather then getting into temporal rituals of worshipping Saligram, bathing, wearing beads etc. Gopal Das realised his self and became a Sikh of Guru Nanakleaving all ritualistic practices. He invited Guruji to his house. Guruji stayed in his house for some months holding discussions with scholars of various faiths on various aspects of spirituality and propagated Divine Name.

Chaturdas was the Pandit of Benaras then. Discussions with Pandit Chaturdas have been very well explained in Puratan Janamsakhi [14.23] Pandit Chatur Das came for having the ritual bath in Ganges and wished saying Ram Ram to Guru Nanak. Seeing Guruji’s wear, he said: “O worshipper! You do not have idol, rosary of tulsi beads, or vermillion mark on your forehead and call yourself a worshipper! What type of worship have you done?”
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14.20. Gurdwara Guru ka Bagh Shri Guru Nanak Dev Ji Banaras

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14.21. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Dev Ji
Benares

Guru Nanak said: “O Brahmin, you worship and believe in your stone-god, and wear your ceremonial rosary beads. Chant the Name of the Lord. Build your boat, and pray, “O Merciful Lord, please be merciful to me.” Why do you irrigate the barren, alkaline soil? You are wasting your life away! This wall of mud is crumbling. Why bother to patch it with plaster? [14.24]

Pandit questioned: “O worshipper! If the earth is dug but not watered, how can it grow plants? How can the gardener accept it as his own creation?”

Guru Nanak replied, “Let your hands be the buckets, strung on the chain, and yoke the mind as the ox to pull it; draw the water up from the well. Irrigate your fields with the Ambrosial Nectar, and you shall be owned by God the Gardener.

Pandit questioned again: “O worshipper! This is the produce from watering an alkaline land. What is that with which we water the earth and we reach God?

GuruNanak replied: “Let lust and anger be your two shovels, to dig up the dirt of your farm, O Siblings of Destiny. The more you dig, the more peace yoshall find. Your past actions cannot be erased.”

“Use your lust and anger as tools to dig the earth. The more you dig better you get the results. Hard labour can never be obliterated.”

Pandit was highly impressed by Guru Nanak’s reply. He bowed and said: “Sire you are swan among the cranes. Our intellect is controlled by our senses, like crane.

Guru Nanak replied: “The crane is again transformed into a swan, if God is Merciful and Wills so. I, Nanak, the slave of God’s slaves, bow and pray to the Merciful Lord to have mercy on me”.

Pandit said further: “Sire! You are the true worshipper of God. Please purify this town as well and have benefit of the quality of this town.” Guru Nanak enquired: “What is the special quality of this place?” The Pandit replied: “The quality of this town is education. By getting education here one get special qualities of wordly attainments (ridhi) here. If you are here the world will reognise you. You guide the people to your path and be a head priest.

Guru Nanak sang: “The king is just a boy, and his city is vulnerable. He is in love with his wicked enemies. He reads of his two mothers and his two fathers; O Pandit, reflect on this. Master Pandit, teach me about this. How can I obtain the Lord of life? There is fire within the plants which bloom; the ocean is tied into a bundle. The sun and the moon dwell in the same home in the sky. You have not obtained this knowledge. One who knows the All-pervading Lord, eats up the one mother — Maya. Know that the sign of such a person is that he gathers the wealth of compassion. The mind lives with those who do not listen, and do not admit what they eat. Prays Nanak, the slave of the Lord’s slave: one instant the mind is huge, and the next instant, it is tiny”. [14.24]

Pandit Chatur Das requested again: “Whatever we learn and teach does it help attain God’s Name?” Guru Nanak asked, “What do you learn and what do you teach your students?” Pandit said: “We teach mantras and their rituals from Vedas, Shashtras and Smritis.” Guru Nanak sang:

From Ongkaar, the One Universal Creator God, Brahma was created. He kept Ongkaar in his consciousness. From Ongkaar, the mountains and the ages were created. Ongkaar created the Vedas. Ongkaar saves the world through the Shabad. Ongkaar saves the Gurmukhs. Listen to the Message of the Universal, Imperishable Creator Lord. The Universal, Imperishable Creator Lord is the essence of the three worlds. Listen, O Pandit, O religious scholar, why are you writing about worldly debates? As Gurmukh, write only the Name of the Lord, the Lord of the World. [14.25]

O Brahmin, you worship and believe in your stone-god, and wear your ceremonial rosary beads.Chant the Name of the Lord. Build your boat, and pray, “O Merciful Lord, please be merciful to me.” Why do you irrigate the barren, alkaline soil? You are wasting your life away! This wall of mud is crumbling. Why bother to patch it with plaster? Let your hands be the buckets, strung on the chain, and yoke the mind as the ox to pull it; draw the water up from the well. Irrigate your fields with the Ambrosial Nectar, and you shall be owned by God the Gardener. Let sexual desire and anger be your two shovels, to dig up the dirt of your farm, O Siblings of Destiny. The more you dig, the more peace you shall find. Your past actions cannot be erased. The crane is again transformed into a swan, if You will, O Merciful Lord. Prays Nanak, the slave of Your slaves: O Merciful Lord, have mercy on me.

He then recited 54 paudis (steps) of Bani Ongkar. Pandit fell at Guru Nanak’s feet and dedicated himself to meditation on God’s Name and recited ‘Guru, Guru’.
Having heard about Guru Nanak’s arrival Bhagat Namdev, Ravidas, Trilochan, Parsa, the two followers of Kabir Haso Rai and Dharma Das Rama Nand’s follower Nityanand and many other saints came to meet him and were pleased to hold discussions. Guru Nanak sang the hymn in Sri Rag: ‘aape rasia aap ras’

Sri Raag, First Mehl, Second House: He Himself is the Enjoyer, and He Himself is the Enjoyment. He Himself is the Ravisher of all. He Himself is the Bride in her dress; He Himself is the Bridegroom on the bed. My Lord and Master is imbued with love; He is totally permeating and pervading all.He Himself is the fisherman and the fish; He Himself is the water and the net. He Himself is the sinker, and He Himself is the bait. He Himself loves in so many ways. O sister soul-brides, He is my Beloved. He continually ravishes and enjoys the happy soul-brides; just look at the plight I am in without Him! Prays Nanak, please hear my prayer: You are the pool, and You are the soul-swan. You are the lotus flower of the day You are the water-lily of the night. You Yourself behold them, and blossom forth in bliss. (p.23)

The lively discussions with the representatives of various sects got quite a number of people around who too relished Guru’s hymns. Guru stayed in Benaras for fifteen days.[14.26]

After Guru Nanak Dev had visited it, a sangat was established here, which was already flourishing when Guru Tegh Bahadur arrived in 1666 and Guru Gobind Singh passed through the city on his way from Patna Sahib to Punjab in 1670. The Tenth Guru sent five Sikhs here to learn Sanskrit. These learned men, who came to be known as Nirmalas (lit. pure) Sikhs went back to Punjab to propagate learning among the Sikhs there, but more came to study ancient classics in their place. Contact thus established with Benaras continued uninterrupted, and in 1823, according to a census taken by James Princep, there were 1000 Sikhs in Benaras. They were divided into seven sects and were listed under Hindu Fakirs. The seven sects were Udasis, Nirmalas, Govind Singhis, Suthrashahis and three (not numerous though) sects of Gang Bakhshis, Ram Raias and Nagas. Collectively they were known as the Sikhs or the Nanak Shahis. The present building of the Gurdwara located along Shri Guru Nanak Marg (or street) was constructed during early 1970s. The sanctum is at one end of a rectangular hall with a wide gallery at mid-height on three sides on the interior, and a porch in front of the doors on the opposite side of the sanctum. A few rooms near the entrance to the one-acre compound of the Gurdwara are available for pilgrims' staying overnight. [14.27]

Guru Tegh Bahadur, Guru Gobind Singh and many prominent Sikhs also visited the place. Recently water was taken out from below the bed of Ganges River under Gurdwara at Banaras and it was found that it had the cleanest water despite Ganges having been declared the most polluted river.
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14.22. Footwear of Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Ji and Guru Gobind Singh Ji

Other historical Sikh Gurdwaras and institutions at Benaras in their memory include:

GURDWARA BARI SANGAT SRI GURU TEGH BAHADUR –
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14.23. Gurdwara Bari Sangat Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur

The Gurdwara in Nichi Bagh area is the oldest and most important sangat at Benaras judging from old hukamnamas and other relics possessed by it. At the time of Guru Tegh Bahdur's visit, the Sangat was headed by Bhai Jawehri Lal, the masand. The Guru stayed in a house belonging to Bhai Kalyan Mal. It is the site of this house which is occupied by the Gurdwara Bari Sangat now. Its present three-storey building, which replaced the one constructed by Maharaja Narinder Singh of Patiala in 1854, was constructed during the 1950s. The sanctum is at one end of a spacious high-ceilinged, rectangular hall on the ground floor. All around the interior of the hall is a wide gallery and a number of cupboards for use by pilgrims. Within the congregation hall there are two more shrines - a small room called Tap Asthan represents the closet where Guru Tegh Bahadur sat in solitary meditation, and a narrow well called Baoli Ganga Pargat (lit. well making the Ganges manifest). There is a popular legend related to the latter. It is said that one morning as Guru Tegh Bahadur was meditating in the Tap Asthan, Bhai Kalyan Mal invited him to a dip in the holy Ganges. The Guru remarked, "God's Name is the holiest of all. Rather than a worshipper of God, go seeking holiness in the waters of Ganges, the Ganges would come to be blessed by the touch of the worshipper." Seeing Kalyan Mal puzzled by his utterance, the Guru asked him to lift a nearby stone. As soon as Kalyan Mal did so, a spring of river-water appeared. This spring is the present Baoli Ganga Pargat. Two very old pairs of shoes, one once worn by Guru Tegh bahadur and the other by the young Sahibzada Gobind Das, and a chola (long, loose gown) once used by Guru Tegh Bahadur are displayed in glass cupboards. The hukamnamas, seventeen in number are kept separately in the office of the committee that manages this Gurdwara.
GURDWARA CHHOTI SANGAT
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14.23. Gurdwara Chhoti Sangat
Gurdwara Chhoti Sangat is located in a privately owned house in a narrow lane named Bhuteshwar Gali branching off Dashashvamedh Road. It is said to be the congregation spot of a smaller Sikh community (chhoti sangat) which too was visited by Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh. It is a serial like building with two floors of rooms around a square compound. The rooms are rented out. The Gurdwara is in a room on the first floor maintained by a Nirmala sadhu. There is also a hand-written copy of Guru Granth Sahib here which is dated Phagun 1833 (Feb-March 1777).

NIRMAL MIR GHAT
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14.24. Gurdwara Nirmal Mir Ghat Sahib
Nirmal Mir Ghat is near Vishalakshi Temple on the Ganges bank .It was also once a Sikh Sangat, but is now a study centre of Udasi students of Udasin Sanskrit Vidyalaya. Guru Granth Sahib is still seated here but alongwith Bhagvad Gita on adjacently placed palanquins in rectangular hall.

There is an Udasin mutt stated to have been visited by Baba Sri Chand son of Guru Nanak. The proceedings of discourses and Shabad at the place as recorded by a Bengali visitor [14.28] are given oug here.

HYMN

You are the Lord—to You be praise.
All life is with You.
You are my parents, I am Your child -
All happiness is derived from Your clemency.
No one knows Your end.
Highest Lord amongst the highest—
Of all that exists You are the regulator.
And all that is from You obeys Your will.
Your movements—Your pleasure—You only know.
Nanak, Your slave, is free-will offering unto You.
The Priest said—
Meditate on the Saheb of the Book
[Sri Guru Granth Sahib], and exclaim Wah Guru.
The People accordingly repeat—
Wah Guru — Wah Guru Ki Fateh.
The Priest -
Meditating on Sri Chandra, exclaim Wah Guru.
The People— Wah Guru — Wah Guru Ki Fateh.

HYMN
Love, and fix Your whole heart upon Him—
The world is bound to You by Prosperity—
No one is another’s.
Whilst prosperity endures many will come;
And sit with you and surround you;
But in adversity they will fly,
And not one will be near thee.
The woman of the house who loves you,
And is ever in your bosom,
When the spirit quits the body,
Will fly with alarm from the dead.
Such is the way of the world.
With all on which we place affection;
Do Your, Nanak, at your last hour,
Rely alone upon Hari.
Priest as before—
Meditating on the Saheb of the Book
[Sri Guru Granth Sahib], &c.
People as before — Wah Guru &c.

HYMN

My holy teacher is he who teaches clemency —
The heart is awake within; who seeks may find.
Wonderful is that rosary, every bead of which is the breath.
Lying apart in its ardour, “It knows what cometh to pass.
The Sage is he who is merciful; the merciless is a butcher.
You wieldest the knife and regardlessly exclaims :
What is a goat, what is cow, what are animals?
But the Saheb declared that the blood of all is the same.
Saints, Prophets, and Seers have all passed in death.
Nanak, destroy not life for the preservation of the body.
That desire of life which is in the heart do you, brother, repress.
Nanak, calling aloud, says: take refuge with Hari. Priest as before —
Meditating on the [Guru Granth] Saheb, &c.
People as before — Wah Guru — Wah Guru ki fateh. 5

1. The Guru Granth Sahib is not worshipped as an image, but in view of its size, it is placed on a small cot, called Manji, for convenience of reading. The offerings are for the general fund of the temples and are not unoften put in locked boxes or pots kept there for the purpose.]

2. [The teachings of Guru Nanak are not founded on any particular school of Hindu philosophy. They are of his independent thinking.]

3. [The Udasi order was established by Sri Chand son of Guru Nanak and not by his grandson.]

4. Lit. Congregation; also a Sikh Gurdawra or temple.

5. For further specimens see Journal of the As. Soc. of Bengal

Bhagat Kabir belonged to Banaras. However no accounts are available of Guru Nanak meeting Kabir at Banaras.

SHRI CHETAN MATH
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14.25. Gurdwara Chetan Math is in Bishwesharganj locality

Shri Chetan Math is in Bishwesharganj locality near the Punjabi Market. It is where the first batch of five Sikhs sent to Benaras by Guru Gobind Singh to study Sanskrit had stayed. It is now called Sri Guru Nanak Nirmal Sanskrit Vidalaya, which is a residential college affiliated to the Sampurnanand Sanskrit University Varanasi. Guru Granth Sahib is seated in one of the rooms, but its study is not a part of the curriculum.



NIZAMABAD

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14.26. Gurdwara Charan Paduka, Nizamabad

Nizamabad is a small town in the interior of Azamgarh district. An eight-kilometre link road connects it to Serai Rani on the Jaunpur-Azamgarh road. Another six-kilometres road links it to Phariha. Both Serai Rani and Phariha are railway stations on the Ballia-Shahganj metre gauge section of North-Eastern Railway.Gurdwara Charan Paduka Patshahi Pehli te Nauvinexists to commemorate the visits of the two gurus to the place. Nizamabad was visited by Guru Nanak Dev during his eastern udasi in the early sixteenth century, and by Guru Tegh Bahadur during his journey back towards Punjab in 1670. A shrine called Charan Paduka (lit. wooden sandals) common to both Gurus existed here of old under Udasi priests until Bawa Kripa Dayal Singh of Goindwal established a proper Gurdwara and himself settled here to preach Sikhism. It became a well known Sikh missionary centre during the time of his son Sadho Singh and grandson, the well-known scholar, author and poet Bawa Sumer Singh. The shrine is named Gurdwara Charan Paduka Patshahi 1 te 9. Its buildings have been renovated by Sant Sadhu Singh Mauni, whose successors continue to administer it. Besides a pair of wooden sandals kept here as a sacred relic one used by Guru Tegh Bahadur, there are fourteen old hand-written copies of Guru Granth Sahib.[14.29]
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14.27. Charan Paduka Patshahi Pehli te Nauvin inside Gurdwara Nizambad

CHANDERAULI
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14.28. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Dev ji Maharaj Chanderauli

From Benares two routes lead to Patna; a kutcha passage parallel to the Ganges and another via Gaya. The road that led to Patna via Sasaram and Gaya was later on named Sher Shah Suri Road because Emperor Sher Shah Suri also got constructed inns alongside this road. Walking down this route, there lies an ancient town Chandrauli, 29 miles (46.40 km.) off Benares. Within a radius of five miles (8 km.) of this town there are several habitations well as ancient ruins. It seems Hari Nāth was a chief of one of these places where Guru Nanak went there. Setting out from Benares and on his way to Gaya, Guru Nanak halted near Chandrauli. He took up his residence outside the town. The Guru remained absorbed in his self and did not talk to anybody. He remained silent for some time. This had a salutary effect on the people. The news spread throughout the town that a fakir had come who neither spoke nor made any gestures. The very sight of his handsome and impressive face was blissful. Listening this, the Chief of the town, Hari Nāth, came to have a glimpse of the Guru. He came and sat beside the Guru.At this time, the Guru recited the following hymn:

My soul burns, over and over again.
Burning and burning, it is ruined, and it falls into evil.
That body, which forgets the Word of the Guru,
cries out in pain, like a chronic patient. || 1 ||
To speak too much and babble is useless.
Even without our speaking, He knows everything. || 1 || Pause ||
He created our ears, eyes and nose.
He gave us our tongue to speak so fluently.
He preserved the mind in the fire of the womb;
at His Command, the wind blows everywhere. || 2 ||
These worldly attachments, loves and pleasurable tastes,
all are just black stains.
One who departs, with these black stains of sin on his face
shall find no place to sit in the Court of the Lord. || 3 ||
By Your Grace, we chant Your Name.
Becoming attached to it, one is saved;
there is no other way.
Even if one is drowning, still, he may be saved.
O Nanak, the True Lord is the Giver of all. || 4 || (Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p. 662)

This hymn acted as a balm on the aching psyche of Hari Nāth. It seemed to him as if the Guru had spelt out the condition of his (Hari Nāth’s) mind when he said:“My soul burns over and over again.”

As for the question oflove, attachment and enjoyment, it seemed to him as if God Himself took the form of this fakir to eradicate his suffering.So he fell at the Guru’s feet and prayed that the Guru make him his disciple and let him be his companion. He even promised to renounce the throne.The Guru advised him that there was yoga even in reigning. He further told him to serve the people and remember the Name Divine. Thus he gave Hari Nāth the message of nām (Divine Name), dān (charity) andgaribi (humility).Thereafter, Guru Nanak resumed his journey.

References Chapter 14

14.1 Surinder Singh Kohli, Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, 1990, p.164-165, SGGS, s. 470.
14.2. Surinder Singh Kohli, Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, 1990, p.164-165
14.3. Op cit p.165
14.4 Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, Part 1, p.133 4 Bhadron Samvat 1566 Bikrami nu Agre a thahire. Uthon ik Mai Jassi nam jano dooji Meeran bai si, satsang us nun Bairagi faqiran da si.
14.5. Gurdwara Sri Guru Nanak Sahib Bagichi | Discover Sikhism
14.6. Tarlochan Singh Dr. Biography Guru Nanak
14.7. Dhanna Singh Chehal, p.101
14.5 Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak
14.8. Tara Singh, Sri Guru Tirath Sangrahi. Amritsar, n.d.
14.9.Thakar Singh, Giani, Sri Gurduare Darshan. Amritsar, 1923.
14.10. Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, March 2005, Gurdham Didar based on Mahan Kosh of Kahn Singh Nabha, p.248
14.11. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.315)
14.12.http://www.historicalgurudwaras.com/India/UttarPradesh/Agra/GurudwaraShriMaiThaanSahibAgra/ gallery.php
14.13. HistoricalGurudwaras.com, a Journey to Historical Gurudwara Sahibs
14.14. HistoricalGurudwaras.com, a Journey to Historical Gurudwara Sahibs
14.15.Randhir Singh, Udasi Sikhan dii Vithia. Chandigarh, 1972
14.16. ETAWAH - The Sikh Encyclopedia
14. 17 Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.315
14.18. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University, Chandigarh, p.27
14.19. Dhanna Singh Chehal p. 141
14.20. Dhanna Songh Chehal, p. 142, Gupta, Pratul Chandra (1963). Nana Sahib and the Rising at Cawnpore. Clarendon Press. Retrieved 16 June 2012.
14.21. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.316
14.22. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.317
14.23. Puratan Janamsakhi edited by Bhai Vir Singh pp. 60-63
14.24. Sri Guru Granth Sahib. pp. 1170-1171
14.25. Op cit, p.1171
14.26. Gyani Gian Singh Twareekh Khalsa ,p. 104-105SGGS. Pp..929-930
14.27. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.319
14.28. Religious Sects of the Hindus, Sushil Gupta, Calcutta, 1958 [first published in the Asiatic Researches, XVI, 1828, XVII 1882; Bishop’s College Press, 1846; reprinted 1862].
14.29. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.322
 

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BIHAR

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Map 15.1: Guru Nanak’s Travel Route in Bihar through Gaya

Guru Nanak is believed to have entered Bihar from Uttar Pradesh during his first Udasi (Journey) to the East in the year 1503. There is difference of opinion among scholars about the route adopted by Guru Nanak, while proceeding from Benaras to Bihar. In the “Atlas-Travels of Guru Nanak” [15.1] Drs. Fauja Singh - Kripal Singh referred to two routes from Benaras to Hajipur-Patna; “One kacha route lays along the bank of Ganges and the second proceeded there via Gaya”. According to these learned writers, Guru Nanak wanted to visit Gaya on the way to Patna because Gaya was an old - famous center of pilgrimage of Hindus and the Buddhists, and as such they have opined that Guru Nanak took the Gaya route

Dr. Trilochan Singh [15.2] (Guru Nanak - A Biography) is also of the same opinion when he writes, ‘From Benaras Guru Nanak wended his way to Gaya”. As per Twareekh Guru Khalsa of Gyani Gyan Singh [15.3]and Khalsa Twareekh by Giani Lal Singh Sangrur,[15.4] he passed through Jaunpur, Buxar, Arra, Chhapra and reached Patna. Prom Patna he went to Rajgir, Gaya, Bodh Gaya, Mungher, Bhagalpur, Vaidyadham in Deoghar town and retuned to Bhagalpur and proceeded to Sahibganj and Rajmahal in west Bengal enroute to Dhaka. However, Surinder Singh Kohli [15.5] (Travels of Guru Nanak) writes that Guru Nanak touched the territory of Bihar following the course of the Ganges and entered Bihar at Buxur (The old Siddh Ashram), then passing through Arrah and Chhapra, he reached Patna. Bhai Saheb Bhai Vir Singh [15.6](Guru Nanak Chamatkar) also mentions the visit of Guru Nanak from Patna to Gaya-Bodh Gaya and to Rajauli.Guru Nanak’s Travels in Bihar: A Historical Perspective: Joginder Singh Jogi,[15.7]Advocate and former President Takht, Sri Patna Sahib. (Bihar) also supports this.

Referring to this difference of opinion, Dr. Ved Prakash [15.8] in “The Sikhs in Bihar” writes, “According to some, Guru Nanak first came to Patna andthen proceeded to Gaya, associated with the name Lord Buddha. This view seems to be unconvincing because the Guru could not prefer first visiting Patna before Gaya due to the fact that Gaya was and even today is the famous place of pilgrimage of the Hindus and there he was sure to get a good opportunity of imparting his mission to the common folk who so often frequented such religious places”. Map below depicts Bihar journey.

Bihar was also extensively travelled by Guru Tegh Bahadur. As a result of the visit of the two Gurus and later efforts of Sikh saints, half of Bihar is said to have become Nanakpanthi at one time. With large number of Sikh families having settled in different areas of Bihar, after partition of the country, some of such memorials have been so developed as to become places of pilgrimage.

BODH GAYA

Guru Nanak reached Bodh Gaya where Lord Buddha attained enlightenment after passing through Chandrauli. It was a famous place of pilgrimage for Hindus as well as Buddhists. The Buddhist centre is known as Boddh Gaya and is about 12 Kilometres from Gaya to its south. At this place Mahatma Buddha made his renununciation and performed his memorable peace. Guru Nanak sat outside the memorial, in spiritual bliss, with Mardana at the Rabab, and the Kirtan attracted Mahant Devgir. In his discourse with Mahant Devgir, Guru Nanak sermonized that a person has to exercise control over his wishes so that wicked intentions should melt away and shady thoughts and passions should surrender to Divine Sublime. Mahant Devgir was much impressed by the doctrines enunciated by the Guru and adopted the discipline ordained by Guru Nanak. According to Bhai Sahib Bhai Vir Singh [15.9] and other scholars, Mahant Devgir was said to be a very respectable and wealthy person. The third successor of this Mahant was one Bhagatgir who was afterwards re¬christened as Bhagat Bhawan.Dr. Ved. Prakash [15.10] in his thesis Sikhs in Bihar) mentions: “As a convert is usually more zealous and firm in his faith, he (Bhagat Bhagwan) did utmost to carry out the instructions of his initiator. He was converted to Sikhism during the pontification of Guru Har Rai, the seventh Guru and is credited with having established 360 mathhs in Bihar or Magadh. A gurdwara in memory of Guru Nanak’s visit has land attached to it and regular donations are received from the sangat. [15.11]

GAYA
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15.1. Gurdwara Guru Nanak, Vishu Ghat, Gaya Bihar
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15.2. Gurdwara Guru Nanak, Vishu Ghat, Gaya Bihar

Guru Nanak visited Gaya after Bodh Gaya. It was a Hindu pilgrim centre situated on the bank of the Phalgu. It was strongly believed during those days that Gaya was a devil (shaitan) who took to hard meditation. Vishnu was pleased at this and told him to ask for a boon. The devil sought the boon that whosoever saw him might get free from the pangs of hell. Lord Vishnu said ‘whosoever sees my feet will get liberated.’

The Vishnu Pad is a huge temple where pilgrims from all over India come to pay obeisance. Another belief that was current was that if one performed here the last rites of his ancestors who were already dead they would also get liberated. Therefore, many Hindus visited Gaya to perform last rites of their ancestors to seek liberation for them. While performing these rites, they make round balls of rice and lighted lamps. They believed that by their doing so, their ancestors could get salvation. They offer rolls of barley along with cash placed on leaves of Palas to the Brahmans (pandas) for their eternal salvation. The ritual is known as ‘pind bharouna’.[15.12] As Guru Nanak sat on the bank of the Phalgu river absorbed in his thoughts, the pandas came to him and advised him to get pind bharai (offer to the elders), the last rituals performed for his own and his ancestors’ liberation. The Guru replied that he had lit a lamp for himself and his ancestors. He had performed such a ritual that the darkness of ignorance would wane. Heaven and hell are phenomenon of ignorance. Those who have lit the lamp of knowledge of Divine Name they stood liberated.

Guru Nanak recited the hymn: “deeva mera ek naam dukh vich paia tel. Un chanan oh sokhia chooka jam sio mel. Loga mat ko fakad pai.Lakh madia kar ekthe ek rate lai bhahi”.

The One Name is my lamp; I have put the oil of suffering into it.Its flame has dried up this oil, and I have escaped my meeting with the Messenger of Death. || 1 ||
O people, do not make fun of me. Thousands of wooden logs, piled up together, need only a tiny flame to burn. || 1 || Pause ||
The Lord is my festive dish, of rice balls on leafy plates; the True Name of the Creator Lord is my funeral ceremony. Here and hereafter, in the past and in the future, this is my support. || 2 ||
The Lord’s Praise is my River Ganges and my city of Benares; my soul takes its sacred cleansing bath there. That becomes my true cleansing bath, if night and day, I enshrine love for You. || 3 || The rice balls are offered to the gods and the dead ancestors, but it is the Brahmins who eat them!O Nanak, the rice balls of the Lord are a gift which is never exhausted. [15.13]

Hearing this, the pandits realized the truth and were ashamed at their act as they used to get the materials from their customers and used it for their personal usage. The pilgrims also realized the futulity of these rituals. There is a gurdwara in Gaya to commemorate the Guru’s visit to that place. It is situated by the side of Vishnu Pad temple in Deoghat on the bank of Falgu river. Baba Ram Das Udasi is the Mahant who manages the gurdwara which is known as Gurdwara Deo Ghat. The building of the shrine was got constructed by Almast during the pontificate of Guru Hargobind. The stamp of Bhai Almast is still preserved there. In the central hall of the building, a Hindi version of Granth Sahib has been placed on a raised platform along with Gita and Ramayana. A statuette of Baba Sri Chand, son of Guru Nanak has also been installed in the room. The last Mahant Baba Satnam Das having died in early 2006, after prolonged suffering, his father Vaid Anant Das, who used to look after his son, is now managing the shrine and claims it to head an Udasi Sangat, which historically is not correct. There is strong resentment among the local Sikhs.[15.14]

Later Guru Tegh Bahadur also visited the place. Gurdwara Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji near Vishnupad is controlled by Udasi priests. As in Gurdwara Chacha Phaggu Mal at Sasaram, here too three copies of Guru Granth Sahib in Gurmukhi and Devnagri script are seated side by side in a rectangular pavilion on a raised platform.

RAJAULI
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15.3 Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi Rajauli

Going from Gaya to Rajgir, Guru Nanak passed through Rajauli, where a faqir, Kalhan Shah had been meditating for long by the side of a “Dhooni” (continuous fire place). Impressed by the melodious voice of Kirtan of Guru Nanak, the faqir came and bowed before the Guru who blessed him with real Name. According to ‘Guru Nanak Chamatkar’[15.15] two memorials were created at Rajauli; one in the memory of the faqir and the other of Guru Nanak. According to one scholar “the antiquity of the Sangat was established, but there is no reference to Guru Nanak, nor was there any evidence available, oral or documentary, to support the traditional account given by the Punjabi authors.” Mahant Ram Ratan Buksh Das is presently managing the Sangat, who claims to be the seventh successor of Mahant Nanak Buksh Das. This Sangat is in fact the biggest of the Sangats in Bihar associated with the name of Guru Nanak and is situated in Rajauli town on Patna Ranchi main Road (NH-30) in an area of about four acres; covered by the building of the Sangat and the Bagicha attached to the Sangat. There are over fifty residential rooms in this two hundred years old building and the design of the inner side of the roomsreminds one of the designs of the rooms around parikrama of Sri Darbar Sahib Amritsar. In the Puja room of the Sangat is kept hundred year old hand written Bir of Sri Guru Granth Saheb and a few pictures of Hindu deities. There are certain Samadhs within the complex; the name of Baba Sadh Buksh Das is written in Gurumukhi on one of the Samadhs. A gate within the complex also mentions the name of Baba Gopal Buksh Das written in Gurumukhi. According to Mahant Ram Ratan Buksh Das, there is another branch of the Sangat situated at Akbarpur about fifteen kms away from Rajauli on the said Patna Ranchi Road. The Khankah of Faqir Kalhan Shah is situated at some distance from the Sangat. It is neatly kept and according to one Azhar Alam, is being managed by the Sunni Waqf Board through its local committee. The Faqir was said to have possessed miraculous powers. The dhooni is no longer burning today.

RAJGIR
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15.4 Gurdwara Baoli Sahib Rajgir

15.5 Gurdwara Baoli Sahib Rajgir

15.6 Sheetal Kund Rajgir


Rajgir, the old Rajgraha, said to be one of the oldest cities of India and had been the capital of Jarasandh. It is considered sacred because it had long association with Lord Buddha and Lord Mahavira. According to Surinder Singh Kohli [15.16], the place is famous in the history of Buddhism because five hundred Buddhist monks met here to fix the Buddhist canon.

Having stayed at Gaya for some days Guru Nanak visited Rajgir also known as Rajgriha.The absence of any mention ofNanak Kund or the visit of Guru Nanak at Rajgir, in the original Biographies of the Guru (Janam Sakhis) has created doubts in the mind of some scholars about the veracity of traditional account of this historic place.

Rajgir Manji Sahib is about 20 miles from Gaya. It has the fort of Jarasindh and the lines of his chariot are still being shown. Three tanks of hot water remain full: these are called fountains of gods. The one in which Guru Nanak had bath is always cool. The fair is held in the month of Badhron.[15.17] Guru Nanak is believed to have a discourse with Buddhist and Jain monks and impressed upon the importance of devotion to God without renunciation: like a lotus. The city was surrounded by springs of hot water. Cool drinking water was not available to the people. The Guru pointed out to the people to dig a place. Lo! Cool water gushed out. The historical spring is known as Nanak Kund. Patna Gazetteer [15.18] refers to Sikh Gurudwara at the Kund. Kund is recorded in revenue records at Khata No. 332 and Khatauni No. 7690 of Mauza - Rajgir, District - Patna (now district Nalanda). During the last forty years, mainly with the untiring efforts of Bhai Ajaib Singh, the Gurudwara has been maintained and developed. Another complex of about ten residential rooms has also been constructed with the funds provided by the Prabandhak Committee,and the transporters and the Sangat of Gaya. Rajgir is fast developing as a socio-cultural center and Rajgir Mahotsav is organized every year. A large number of Sikh families from Mumbai and other parts of the country while visiting Patna for celebrating birthday of Guru Gobind Singh every year, congregate at Rajgir Gurudwara the next day. A special Diwan is held where local people also participate in large number.

PATNA SAHIB

Patna, capital of Bihar State is reverently called Patna Sahib by the Sikhs because of its consecration by Guru Nanak Dev, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh. The latter was born here during the holy family's sojourn at Patna during Guru Tegh Bahadur's tour of eastern Bihar, Bengal and Assam from 1666 to 1670. Patna Sahib is situated on the right bank of the River Ganges. The nearest railway station to the old city, where most of the Sikh shrines are located, is Patna Sahib, east of the main junction.

Hajipur (Patna)

GURDWARA PEHLI PATSHAHI HAJIPUR PATNA


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15.7. Gurdwara Sonar Toli Patna associated with Guru Nanak, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh Ji

A kutcha road from Gaya led to the place which has since come to be known as Patna Sahib. Those days debris of the old city of Patliputra was extant. Passing through the debris and crossing the Ganga, Guru Nanak reached Hajipur which was a famous city those days. Hajipur is situated on the northern bank of the Ganges and opposite the city of Patna where the Gaṇḍakī River merges with the Ganges. After crossing the Ganges, the Guru sat on the site where now stands the Nanak Shahi Gurdwara. This place is in the Ram Chaura Mohalla in Harihar colony.

SALAS RAI OF HAJIPUR (PATNA):
When Guru Nanak reached Hajipur, his companion Mardana was very hungry. Guru Nanak took out a gem from the earth, handed over to Mardana to sell it in the market and to take care of his hunger.The shopkeepers approached by Mardana offered meagre consideration for the gem which Mardana did not accept and came back. Guru Nanak then asked Mardana to go to Jauhri Tola of the city to sell the gem to Salas Rai. Salas Rai examined the gem and told Mardana that the gem was so precious that he could not afford to purchase it but he paid Mardana Rs. 100/- as Mehmani (for having a look at it) Mardana brought the amount and the gem before the Guru. According to Bhai Santokh Singh[15.19] Guru Nanak told Mardana that human life is like a precious jewel. Those who appreciate its real value recognize it and re-emerge with Eternal Reality while others simply waste their life in gratification of sensual pleasures. Guru Nanak asked Mardana to return the money, which Salasrai declined to accept back. Acknowledging the servant as special, alongwith his servant named Adharaka Salas Rai came to see the Guru. He also brought along some food which he presented to the Guru and said that earlier he considered Mardana a jewel with you but after meeting you I see jewels all around you. The Guru uttered the following hymn:

In the pure, immaculate waters, both the lotus and the slimy scum are found.
The lotus flower is with the scum and the water, but it remains untouched by any pollution. || 1 ||
You frog, you will never understand. You eat the dirt, while you dwell in the immaculate waters.
You know nothing of the ambrosial nectar there. || 1 || Pause ||
You dwell continually in the water; the bumble bee does not dwell there, but it is intoxicated with its fragrance from afar. Intuitively sensing the moon in the distance, the lotus bows its head. || 2 ||
realms of nectar are irrigated with milk and honey; you think you are clever to live in the water.
You can never escape your own inner tendencies, like the love of the flea for blood. || 3 ||
The fool may live with the Pandit, the religious scholar and listen to the Vedas and the Śāstras.
You can never escape your own inner tendencies ,like the crooked tail of the dog. || 4 ||
Some are hypocrites; they do not merge with the Nām, the Name of the Lord. Some are absorbed in the Feet of the Lord, Har, Har. The mortals obtain what they are predestined to receive;
O Nanak, with your tongue, chant the Nām. || 5 || [15.20]

Salis Rai felt peace in his mind on listening to the hymn. He paid obeisance to the Guru and prayed that his offering be accepted. The Guru refused to accept money, but did accept the food. Salis Rai again prayed that he be assigned any service. The Guru advised him that it is not necessary that the virtue of Name is achieved only after acquiring some status. Therefore, one must not be proud of one’s higher social status. The Guru also told him that his subordinate Adharka was on way to realizing Name and that he (although a subordinate in social life) was spiritually higher than him. Therefore, he deserved to be held in esteem.

Guru Nanak’s words produced such an impression on Salas Rai that he became Guru’s disciple and brought Guru Nanak to his house. A small community of Sikh believers was formed into what was known as Chhoti Sangat. The Guru stayed for about eight months (according to some scholars the period of stay is more than that) Bhai Vir Singh[15.21] narrates a lengthy discourse between Guru Nanak and Salas Rai, who converted his house (Haveli) as Guru Nanak Dharamshala- the first of its kind. It is said that Guru Nanak put his turban on the head of Salas Rai and appointed him as a Preacher of the area with the condition that after Salas Rai’s death his servant Adharaka, who had acquired spiritual enlightenment, shall became his successor. At the time of his departure, Guru Nanak professed that a Mahanpurkh (great person) shall take birth at this place.A new building comprising a spacious square hall with the sanctum in the middle was constructed during the 1980s.

Ghanshyam, the great grand son of Adhrakha, the fourth successor of Salis Rai Johri's Sangat (now the birth place of Guru Gobind Singh ji) was also fortunate to get blessings from the ninth successor of Guru Nanak, as it was assured by Guru Nanak during his visit to this place. [15.22]

HARIHAR KSHETRA MELA:

Dr. Surinder Singh Kohli mentions that Guru Nanak attended the fair at Harihar Kshetra about three miles from Patna on the northern bank of Ganges, where he attracted the people by his sermons on life. There was an old temple dedicated to Gajgrah near Hajipur. A fair, called the Sonpur fair, was held there on the full-moon night of the month of Kārtik each year. Many pilgrims came on that day. Even otherwise the devotees of Vishnu kept pouring in throughout the year. One day a devotee of Vishnu came to Guru Nanak and put him a question: “Mind seeks material wealth; material wealth cannot be attained without ego; and ego takes one away from God. How can one realize God?”In response, the Guru recited the following hymn:

When the body perishes, whose wealth is it? Without the Guru, how can the Lord’s Name be obtained? The wealth of the Lord’s Name is my companion and helper.Night and day, centre your loving attentionon the Immaculate Lord. || 1 ||[15]

This provided that Vaiṣṇavite the required solace and he fell at the Guru’s feet. The Guru spent some time at Hajipur and then proceeded eastwards.The fair is now called Sonepur Mela. According to Muzaffarpur Gazetteer(1958)[15.24] “The famous Sonepur fair in Saran district beyond Hajipur was previously held at Hajipur and only oblations were offered to deity at Sonepur.” A three day Prachar Camp is organized at Sonepur by the Prabandhak Committee Takht Sri Harimandir Ji, Patna Saheb every year at Kartik Purnima. Again, according to said Gazetteer, Hajipur subdivision was founded in the year 1865 and was comprised of Six Thanas - including Lalganj. It is said that sermons of Guru Nanak were so impressive and appealing that a number of Sangats were established in the area of Hajipur and Lalganj, which by now are non-existent. Lalganj (now in the district of Vaishali) has the distinction of having a century old rich library - Shri Sharda Sadan Pustkalaya.

GURDWARA GAU GHAT, PATNA
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15.8. Gurudwara Gau Ghat Alamganj Village Bhishambarpur, Patna City.

From Hajipur, Guru Nanak came to the house of one Jaita Seth situated at a place called Bishambherpur (Janam Sakhis) near Pachhmi Darwaja of then walled city of Patna with a number of gates, on the southern bank of Ganges, within the jurisdiction of present Alamganj Police Station. Dr. Surinder Singh Kohli 15.25] has referred to this place as Pachhmi Darwaja Sangat where Guru Nanak stayed for sometime hence known as Gurdwara Pahila Bara as it is dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev, who during his visit to Patna in 1503 AD stayed here with Bhai Jaita, a pious man, confectioner by trade, who became the Guru's follower and later converted his house into a dharmsal. As per a local legend, Bhai Jaitamal, a man of great piety was 350 years old when he requested the Guru to secure his soul. Guru Nanak counselled patience and advised him to wait till the ninth Master blessed him. As the legend told by Avtar Singh, the priest of Gurudwara Gau Ghat, Jaitamal was much old for bathing in the River Ganga, but with the blessings of Guru Nanak he could. "Bhai Jaitamal prayed to the Guru to give him strength to bathe in the river Ganga. Guruji told Jaitamal that he need not go to the river; the river would come to him. Guru Nanak converted the river Ganga to a cow. The spot is still there where Bhai Jaitamal used to bathe,"

The congregation that gathered here came to be called Bari Sangat or Gau Ghat Sangat. It is about 4 kilometers from Harimandir Saheb, on the Ashok Raj Path, Alamganj amidst the Patna Railway Junction and Takhat Sri Patna Sahib. Gurudwara Gau Ghat Sahib is the oldest Gurudwara even older than Takhat Shri Hari Mandir Sahib Ji Patna Sahib.

GURDWARA GURU KA BAG, PATNA
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15.8.Gurdwara Guru ka Baag Patna

In 1666, Guru Tegh Bahadur blessed Bhai Jaitamal. The Ninth Guru, along with his family stayed in Patna for four months and made the place popular among the followers of Guru Nanak. The gurudwara preserves many sacred relics such as the bed, a grindstone of Mata Gujri, the musical instrument, Rebeck of Bhai Mardana, the window of the house of Bhai Jaitamal and Thara Sahib where Guru Tegh Bahadur sat. Devotees offer chola or clothes at Tham Sahib, the wooden pillars. It is believed that an unequal pair of wood was brought for the construction, which was later corrected by Guru Tegh Bahudar. Since then, devotees pay obeisance to the pillars. "If someone finds it difficult to marry or secure a job, his wishes are fulfilled. An offering of Chola (a piece of cloth) is made to the Tham Sahib. Hindus, Muslims and people of all religions come here and each has his wish fulfilled," said a devotee.

The place was obviously used to be managed by Mahants, Baba Mangal Singh being the last Mahant, appointed as such by Baba Mukand Singh Mahant of Sri Harimandir Ji, Patna (1913 - 1930). According to S. Balbir Singh Sethi, it was at the instance of his grand father Baba Mukand Singh that a Bir of Guru Granth Saheb was taken in a decorated Palki from Sri Harimandir Ji, and installed at this Gurudwara. After the death of Baba Mangal Singh, his sons Didar Singh and Ranjit Singh transferred this shrine in favour of Prabandhak Committee in the year 1972.

GURDWARA JANAM ASTHAN GURU GOBIND SINGH JI

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15.9. GURDWARA JANAM ASTHAN GURU GOBIND SINGH JI

GURDWARA BAL LILA, PATNA

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15.10. Gurdwara Bal Lila, Patna
GURDWARA KANGAN GHAT

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15.11. Gurdwara Kangan Ghat, Patna

GURDWARA HANDI SAHIB
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15.12. Gurdwara Handi Sahib Patna

TWICE BLESSED PATNA:

The Haveli of Salas Rai, where Guru Nanak stayed became a centre of preaching. On his way to Assam, Guru Tegh Bahadur stayed with his family first at Bhai Jaita’s place and later on the family was shifted to Salas Rai’s Haveli, in compliance with a Hukumnama issued by Guru Tegh Bahadur. It was in this Haveli that Guru Gobind Singh was born. The Janamasthan of Guru Gobind Singh is now known as Takht Sri Harimandir Ji, Patna Saheb. In one of his Hukumnamas Guru Tegh Bahadur bestowed Patna with the title of Guru Ka Ghar. The old single storeyed Janamasthan has now come up to a majestic five storeyed Gurudwara building with three big langar halls, about three hundred residential rooms for the pilgrims, constructed from time to time with the efforts and under the supervision of Sant Nishchal Singh Ji of Yamuna Nagar, Sant Kartar Singh Ji of Sultanpur and Baba Harbans Singh Ji K{censored}wa Wale. A separate V.I.P. complex with thirty six modern rooms known as Salas Rai Jauhri Niwas is reminiscent of the services rendered by the enlightened Jauhri to Guru Nanak and the people of his faith.

Suffice it to say that the seeds of human love, peace and devotion to God sown by Guru Nanak in Salas Rai Haveli have now grown into a flower of religio-¬political center of Eastern India in the form of a Takht (seat of authority) to preserve and promote Guru Nanak-Guru Gobind Singh doctrine of Universal Brotherhood through the offices of a fifteen-member Prabandhak Committee to be approved by the District Judge of Patna, in exercise of powers vested in him under the Religious Endowment Act, 1863.[15.26]

MONGHER
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15.13. Gurdwara Pakki Sangat Mungher

Mongher, a district town, 170 kilometres east of Patna Sahib by rail, is another place where Guru Nanak is known to have stayed during his eastward journey. On his way to Bhagalpur, Guru Nanak stayed at Mongher, old Mudagagir. According to Dr Kohli from Bodh Gaya Guru Nanak reached Mongher or the old Mudgiri [15.27][15.28] Guru Tegh Bahadur also visited the place. It was during his stay here that he got the news of the birth of Guru Gobind Singh. The commemorative shrine Gurdwara Pakki (lit. firm or permanent) Sangat is in Belan Bazar area near the ld fort. Its old building was damaged badly by the 1934 earthquake, it was, however, rebuilt within a year. It is a rectangular room with a verandah in front and is served by Brahaman priests. Two relics, a cot and a pillow said to have been used by the Guru during his stay here, are kept in the same room where Guru Granth Sahib is seated. [15.29] Hukumnama issued by Guru Tegh Bahadur from Mongher containing the following instructions: “kabila humne Patne mein chhora hai. koi haweli hove bari tismein kabila haamara rakhna. Asi pare raje ka sath gaye hain.” A Birh of Guru Granth Saheb used to be installed in this Gurdwara. On enquiry, Vaid Anant Das stated that the said Sri Guru Granth Saheb has been taken away by some Sikhs from Punjab, but he could not give any positive particulars. To trace the history of development of this Sangat and the line of succession through which Mahant Ramratanbux Das has come to be the Gadi Nashin of this Sangat. There is a gurdwara at the site where the Guru stayed.

BHAGALPUR

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15.14. Gurdwara Badi Sangat Bhagalpur

Bhagalpur, another district town on the right bank of the Ganges, 63 km east of Mongher by rail was visited by Guru Nanak after Mongher. At Bhagalpur Guru Nanak stayed at a place in a corner of the city where a memorial was erected near Boorha Nath Mandir in the area known as Jogsar. The memorial is being managed by Lachhmi Devi, widow of Sant Saran Das. Her daughter and son-in-law are also residing with her. An old hand-written Bir of Guru Granth Saheb is also installed in the house. Sr. Tirlochan Singh, Secretary Sri Guru Singh Sabha, Bhagalpur led by the team of Guru Nanak Dev University to Chhoti Sangat situated in Mathra Das Ghosh lane in Jogsar, sanctified by the visit of Guru Tegh Bahadur. The two storeyed Gurdwara is being neatly kept and managed by local Sikhs, with Bhai Jaspal Singh as Granthi. A Sikh officer of N.C.C. lives with his family in the upper floor of the Gurdwara.

It had two Sikh Sangats when Guru Tegh Bahadur visited it in 1667. Guru Tegh Bahadur is said to have stayed at Bari Sangat on Boorhanath Ghat of which what is left is a stone slab, still considered holy. Over it Sardar Inder Singh Atwal got a room built in 1974. On every amavas, Guru Granth Sahib is brought from Grudwara Singh Sabha in the interior of the town and a congregation is held here with the holy book placed on the old slab called Chauki Sahib. The place itself is named Gurdwara Bari Sangat Sri Guru Tegh Bahadur Ji Chauki Sahib. An old hand-written copy of Guru of Guru Granth Sahib acquired from the former Udasi priest of the shrine is preserved in Gurdwara Singh Sabha. The other place, Chhoti Sangat, also on the Ghat a little distance away from Bari Sangat has since been converted into a Hindu temple.[15.30]

Baidyanath Dham

Dr. Ved Prakash and Surinder Singh Kohli make mention of Guru Nanak’s visit to Baidyanath Dham in the district of Deoghar.

References

15.1. Drs. Fauja Singh - Kripal Singh, Atlas-Travels of Guru Nanak”
15.2. Dr. Trilochan Singh, Guru Nanak - A Biography
15.3. Gyani Gian Singh Twareekh Guru Khalsa
15.4 Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur Khalsa Twareekh
15.5. Surinder Singh Kohli Travels of Guru Nanak
15.6. Bhai Vir Singh,Guru Nanak Chamatkar
15.7. Joginder Singh Jogi,Advocate and forer President Takht, Sri Patna Sahib. (Bihar)
15.8. Dr. Ved Prakash in “The Sikhs in Bihar” (Thesis submitted by him for his doctorate and later on published by Janki Prakashan, Patna”)
15.9. Bhai Vir Singh,Guru Nanak Chamatkar
15.10. Dr. Ved Prakash in “The Sikhs in Bihar” Thesis submitted by him for his doctorate and later on published by Janki Prakashan, Patna”
15.11. Gyani Gyan Singh, 1997, Gurdham Sangreh, Sri Amritsar, Dharam Parchar Committee SGPC, 15 December p.39)
15.12. Dr. Ganda Singh, The Sikh Gurus at Gaya, April 1984, Punjab Past and PVIII-I Srno 35., pp. 13-16
15.13. Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p. 358
15.14. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.331
15.15. Bhai Vir Singh Guru Nanak Chamatkar
15.16. Dr Surinder Singh Kohi, Travels of Guru Nanak
15.17. Gyani Gian Singh, 1997, Gurdham Sangreh, Sri Amritsar, Dharam Parchar Committee SGPC, 15 December p.39
15.18 Patna Gazetteer, 1991, p. 101
15.19. Bhai Santokh Singh, Suraj Prakash-Jeewan Dus Guru Sahiban¬Translation in verse
15.20. Guru Granth Sahib. p. 990
15.21. Bhai Vir Singh [3] in Guru Nanak Chamatkar
15.22. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.329-331)
15.23. Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p. 416
15.24. Muzaffarpur Gazetteer,1958
15.25. Dr. Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak.
15.26. Singh Jogi, Advocate and former President Takht, Sri Patna Sahib. (Bihar)
15.27.Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak
15.28. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.331-332
15.29. Joginder Singh Jogi, Guru Nanak’s Travels in Bihar: A Historical Perspective
15.30 Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.332.
 

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GURU NANAK IN BENGAL

At the time of Guru Nanak’s visit to Bengal, Bengal was united and not partitioned as West and East Bengal as of now. The Hussain Shahi dynasty gained power in 1494, when Alauddin Hussain Shah,(1493-1519) , the son of the Sharif of Mecca, became the Sultan of Bengal.[1] Alauddin ushered an age of prosperity and cultural pluralism. His royal court and governors were major patrons of literature and the arts. The Sultan followed a liberal religious policy. He is said to have shown great respect to the famous saint Chaitanya. His Prime Minister was a Hindu. The chief physician, the chief of the bodyguard and the master of the mint and Sultan’s private secretary were also Hindus. Bengali literature flourished under his patronage.He extended the sultanate all the way to the port ohiottagong which witnessed the arrival of the first Portuguese merchants. The sultanate expanded its territory to include Arakan as a dominion.[2] Its royal court received numerous world explorers, including Ibn Battuta, Niccolo De Conti, Ralph Fitch and Admiral Zheng He.[16.1][16.2]

West Bengal was then part of Bengal.Dacca was not developed into a city; it was only a seat of Thanedar then surrounded by insiginificant villages. In Bengal Guru Nanak entered from Bihar’s Bhagalpur town along Ganga and visited Sahibganj, Pakur, Rajmahal and Maldawhere he stayed in the garden of Ram Babu. This garden is known as Guru ka Bagh where the Guru stayed for a few days. There from he crossed to Kantnagar, Lakshamipur, Murshidabad(also known as Maksoodabad and) and Nalhati. Therefrom the Guru Nanak travelled to Krishan Nagar (Nadia). From Krishannagar he entered East Bengal (now Bangladesh) and passed through Faridpur district after Shahzadpur, Shiraz Ganj, Kas Ganj and Navdeep next where he is likely to have met Chaitanya.[16.3] He also visited Siddh saint Ram Dass. He went to Manak Ganj and Devipur and reached Dhaka (Bengal) on 6 Maghar Samvat 1564 (1507 AD). [16.4]

After Dacca he visited Kamrup and Assam and returned to Bangladesh and visited Syllhet and Mymansinghwala. From there he reached Chittagaaon and proceded to East Asia. From East Asia, Guru Nanak returned to Chittagong. From Chittagong the Guru proceeded towards Calcutta in West Bengal via Chandpur and Kesabpur.[16.2] He reached Ratnakhali through boat/ship. There from, he crossed Padma River and reached Faridpur. Through Kesabpur and 24 Parganas he reached Krishnagar. Krishananagar had become the capital of Bengal. Visiting Dinsra and Chandarnagar he reached Kolkatta (Calcutta).Calcutta was a small village then. Guru Nanak reached Ganga Ghat. From Midnapur District Guru Nanak crossed Matthi River, and through Dhal Bhum reached KanchiPuri the place of birth of Ramanuj. Ramanuj followers included Ramanand, Kabir, Parmanand etc. From Kanchipur he crossed Baitarni River. After crossing Alwari River, he reached Baleshwar and guided the people towards worship of One God adopting the path of truth and to shun idol worship. He held discussions with the saints in Mor Hunjan valleys and after crossing Lakhshor river reached Mednipur, where there is a place of worship in honour of Guru Nanak. [16.5] Dr Kohli writes: “The Guru is said to have toured the districts of Hooghly, 24 parganas, bardwan and Midnapore including Dum Dum, Barasar, Howrah, Serampore, Chander Nagar etc. It is also probable that he visited Nadia district again and accompanied the Sanyasi of Navdeep i.e., Chaitnya Mahaprabhu to Jagananath Puri in Orissa. A Gurdwara has been erected in Midnapore in momeory of the visit of the Guru.[16.6] There is no gurdwara in Midnapur now, the nearest Gurdwaras are in Khargapur not connected with Guru Nanak’s visit. The nearest Gurdwara in Paschim Mednipur district is at Chanderkona

References

[16.1]. AM Chowdhury, Husain Shah, Banglapedia: The National Encyclopedia of Bangladesh, Asiatic Society of Bangladesh
[16.2]. Richard, Arthus (2002). History of Rakhine. Boston, MD: Lexington Books. p. 23.ISBN 0-7391-0356-3.
[16.3] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr. 1969, Travels of Guru Nanak, Chandigarh, Punjab Univ, 3rd edition 1997, pp. 40-41
[16.4] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa, Part I, Patiala, Bhasha Vibhag, p.15
[16.5] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa, Part I, Patiala, Bhasha Vibhag, p.15
[16.6] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr. 1969, Travels of Guru Nanak, Chandigarh, Punjab University, 3rd edition 1997, pp. 40-41
 

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WEST BENGAL ON THE WAY TO EAST
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Map 17.1. Guru Nanak in West Bengal

Guru Nanak left Hajipur (Patna) and set out on his way parallel to the Ganges travelling in Ganga by boat and away from Ganga by foot. Passing through the cities of Mongher and Bhagalpur he reached Sahibganj in West Bengal according to all available evidence. Guru Nanak passed through Sahebganj and Pukur before he went to Rajamahal and Malda in Bengal. Memorials have been constructed at Sahibganj and Pakur.

MALDAH:
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Photo 17.1. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Malda

Guru went farther eastwards crossing Ganga towards North. There the Ganges takes a turn towards south. Here the river Mahānandā coming from the north merges with the Ganges. In this region, the Ganges is known by the name of Kālindī. Malda is on the site where the Kālindī and the Mahānandā meet. This town was aprominent halting point for the boats which sailed on these two rivers.Maldah is a prosperous town of West Bengal situated on the confluence of Kalindi and Mahananda in north latitude 2302’30” and east longitude 88010’51’’. It is 8 kos from Makhsoodabad. It is now a district town. It is known for its Mangoes. Guru Nanak took off at this point. It is said that a money-lender by the name of Ram Dev met Guru Nanak here. He was much impressed by Guru Nanak. The Guru stayed here for some time. Guru Nanak came in the garden and he was very well looked after by the Bengali King. He presented the entire garden to the Guru which is being looked after udasis. [17.1] Being a river port it became the business centre during the Mohammadan rule in fifteenth century.

Guru Nanak visited the place in the first decade of sixteenth century. In the town he had met various Muslim saints and delivered discourses. A merchant was highly impressed by the discourses of the Guru and dedicated his mango garden to the Guru in which the guru had delivered his sermons. The placehas been known as ‘Guru ka Bagh’. The place was converted into sangat and was revered by the local sangat. There used to be two rooms and a verandah at the place where the Guru had stayed and was looked after by Udasis. This however is now in disuse and these two buildings have vanished. Four walls about three feet high with two doors on the plinth of 80’x40’ reminded of the existence of an earlier complex. Within walls there was a place where the Guru used to sit as indicated by a local person Dr Shambu Bihar Aggarwal. The local people used to greatly revere the place. None of the family allowed even their children to make water or ease themselves in or around the enclosure. Nobody ever thought of ever picking up any brick from the place. In the records of Municipality, it was shown as a place of Sikh worship. The tax assessment register of the Municipality also showed that it was ‘Sikh Worship Place’ and the ‘Sikh Community’ was shown as the owner. The number of the holding was 98, Mauza Sharbari, Old Maldah.[17.2] It remained the property of sangat till it was later converted in to a local school. In 1945-47 Sardar Gyan Singh Kahlon ICS, the then District Magistrate of Malda got a boundary wall constructed around the place with the help of Sardar Narain Singh contractor. During their visit on 6th February 1974, the team from Guru Nanak DevUniversity consisting of Dr Raghubir Singh Tak and sabinder Singh sagar found a school in the place of the garden complex. The place was in Old Maldah and there was no Sikh around however there was only one Sikh Sardar family of Sardar Harmahinder Singh Makkar living in New Maldah area after his migration from West Punjab in 1947[17.2]. Malda was also visited by Guru Tegh Bahadur. A commemorative shrine existed in Power House Lane in Sarbari Area of Old Malda. It was called Gurdwara Nima Sarai Guru Tegh Bahadur. With the rise of new Malda town across the river, Old Malda was depopulated and the Sikh Gurdwara was deserted. Yet two masonry platforms and an old well remained on the site which continued to be shown as Gurdwara property in revenue records. Interest in the old Gurdwara was revived during the 1960s when a contractor in road building business constructed a compound wall around the remains. Subsequently, other Sikhs mostly road transporters, who first constructed Gurdwara Singh Sabha in New Maldah, took up the restoration of the historical shrine in Old Maldah. It is now known as Prayag Sahib, Sarbari, Old Malda. [17.3]

From Malda Guru Nanak reached Kant Nagar, a town in the Katihar tehsil of present day Purnia district. This town was situated on the bank of the Ganges and near the famous city, Karagola. Here stands an old gurdwara in the memory of Guru Nanak’s visit. According to a local tradition, the Guru had stayed here.[17.4]

GURDWARA GURU NANAK SAHIB GANJ
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17.2. Gurdwara Guru Nanak Sahib Ganj

MAKSUDABAD (MURSHADABAD)
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17.3. Gurdwara Ziaganj West Bengal

From Malda in West Bengal Guru Nanak set out further towards south-east. He took the route alongside the Ganges towards the south: It was later on turned into a pucca road by Sher Shah Suri. This route passed through Maksoodabad (Murshadabad). Maksoodabad is on the banks of the Ganges and lying along the Howrah-Lalgola section and Nalhati on the Howrah-Kiul section of Eastern Railway Half a mile from Nalhati station there is a Gurdwara with an attached garden. He won over sanyasis and made them his Sikhs.In Makhsoodabad Dharamsala he stopped the Hindu weavers from idol worship and turned them into Divine Name. Dharamsla was made of bricks by Laloo Mal Sain. The weaver Sikhs look after the Dharmsala.[17.5]Now it has an Udasi-controlled Gurdwara dedicated to Guru Nanak Dev.[17.6] From Maqsoodabad, he crossed by Sonar village in Bangla Desh before reaching Dacca.

References

17.1. Gyani Gyan Singh,Dec 1997, Gurdham Sangreh, Sri Amritsar, Dharam Parchar Committee SGPC, 15 p.39.
17.2. Raghubir Singh Tak and sabinder Singh Sagar, 1970, Guru Nanak’s visit to Maldah, Journal of Sikh Studies, Vol VI, No.1, Dec 1970, Amritsar, Department of Guru Nanak Studies, Guru Nanak Dev University, 163-166.
17.3. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.336
17.4. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.332-333
17.5. Gyani Gyan Singh, 1997, Gurdham Sangreh, Sri Amritsar, Dharam Parchar Committee SGPC, p.39-40.
17.6. Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.334-336
 

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Jul 22, 2023
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BANGLADESH
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Map 18.1. Guru Nanak travels through Bangla Desh

From Maqsoodabad he took a turn eastwards and reached Sonar village. This village is 15 miles (21 km.) towards north of Dhaka (now in Bangladesh). Guru Nanak did not go to Sonar’ village and instead turned towards south to reach Dhaka.Here was an ancient pilgrim centre, the temple of Dhakeshwari goddess on whose name the town was named. During those days Dhaka was famous only for the temple of goddess Dhakeshwari those days. It became the capital town of the region in 1608.Dhaka was situated on the bank of the Bohi Ganga which was then an important tributary of the Padma river.Guru Nanak halted on the northern side of Dhaka at a site which is these days called the Reyar Bazar. There lived the potters, as they do the same business even these days.The tradition of Guru Nanak’s visit to this place still survives among these people. A well of Guru Nanak’s days is still extant. It is said that the Guru dug up the earth here with his wooden stick to make this well. Before the partition of India in 1947, a fair used to be held here every year in the month of Chet.

Dhaka

Dhaka, also spelled Dacca city is now the capital of Bangladesh. Dhaka’s name is said to refer to the dhak tree, once common in the area, or to Dhakeshwari (The Hidden Goddess), whose shrine is located in the western part of the city. It is located just north of the Buriganga River, a channel of the Dhaleswari River, in the south-central part of the country. Dhaka is Bangladesh’s most populous city and is one of the largest metropolises in South Asia. 9,672,763; (2011) The area around Dhaka consists of a level plain bounded by the Meghna, Padma (Ganga), and Jamuna (Brahmaputra) rivers. The plain is crossed by a network of streams and rivers, the chief being the Dhaleswari, Buriganga, and Sitalakhya.[18.1]Dacca was not yet developed in to a city; it was only a seat of Thanedar then surrounded by insiginificant villages. In all there were 52 bazars; most famous being the Bengala bazar and Dakeshwri bazar built around the most famous Dhakeshwri temple of the area. The name became famous as Dhaka Bangla from the combination of two names [18.2] The city did not rise to prominence until the 17th century, when it served as the capital of the Muslim Mughal dynasty of Bengal province (1608–39 and 1660–1704). [18.3]

Guru Nanak travelled from Murshidabad to Krishan Nagar (Nadia)in West bengal. From Krishannagar he entered East Bengal (now Bangladesh) and passed through Faridpur district Shahzadpur, Shiraz Ganj, Kas Ganj and Navdeep next where he is likely to have met Chaitanya.[18.4] He also visited Siddh saint Ram Dass. He went to Manak Ganj and Devipur and reached Dhaka (Bengal) on 6 Maghar Samvat 1564.[18.5]
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Photo 18.1. Gudwara Nanak Shahi Dhaka

Janamsakhi records the visit to Dhaka Bangala [18.6] Guru Nanak travelled by boat. To visit this he landed at the northern most ghat at Rayer Bazar. Guru Nanak might have visited the most famous temple of the area i.e., Dhakeshwri temple.[18.7] Rayer Bazar was known as Sibpur village in the times of Guru Nanak where potter class dominated.….A Well known as Guru ka Khuh, half hidden in the bramble growth commemorated his visit to the area. There was a local tradition that Guru Nanak drank from the well. Guru Nanak used his stick to get water from the ground. The Gurdwara in Rayer Bazar was known as Sikhar Mandir. [18.8]

The holy shrine where Guru Nanak had a public well dug and a dharamsala built came to be known as Rayer Bazar Gurdwara as indicated in Burt’s [18.9] and Hassan’s [18.10] works. It now stands wholly obliterated. It was around 1960 that the East Pakistan authorities demolished the building, leveled the well (known and revered as Guru Nanak’s well) and the land attached to it, carved out plots, auctioned for house building. On that site now stands modern bungalows, and the locality, called Dhan Mandi, is now the leading posh colony of Dhaka, the capital of Bangladesh. On the other hand, Gurdwara Nanak Shahi, still stands at its original site, in the heart of the city adjacent to the Dhaka University. However, it has been deprived of its vast estate, mostly encroached upon by authorities. It has been renovated by means of a grant by the Indian High Commission and generous donations received from Sikh devotees of Calcutta, Bangkok, Singapore & the Far East. The second existing shrine, Gurdwara Sangat Tola, is located in the Bangla Bazar. Guru Tegh Bahadur stayed here on his way to Assam. It is in a highly dilapidated condition and requires immediate repairs and renovation. Its housing complex, worth crores of rupees, is under unauthorised occupation. [18.11] [18.12]

Some Sikh chronicals mention that it was a spear (barchha) with which he dug the earth, hence the place was known as Barchha Sahib. Bengal had salty water due to closeness of sea and rivers. Guru Nanak took out water from the earth with the help of a spear (Barchha). A gurdwara was later constructed at the place and was known as Barchha Sahib. Nathe Shah Udasi propagated Sikhism in this area. Water of Baoli was being used by the locals during the visit of Gyani Gian Singh. [18.13] [18.14]The name of the place given variedly as Jafrabad and Dhanpur and even the episode of Noorshah is linked to this place.[18.11]

Kalar Village, Manji Sahib: According to Gyani Gian Singh a woman hypnotized Mardana and tied him up. Guru Nanak got him released from the woman known as Noorshah. Guru Nanak made them the understand the importance of attachment to God and sand the hymn: “Galee asi changian aachari buriah. manhu kusudha kalian bahron chitviahn.) [18.15]The evidence however does not support this and mentions that Noor Shah belonged toa hill tribe of Dhubri in Kamrup part of Assam which is explained later.

Reaching Dhaka, Guru Nanak sang: “Man kunchar kaia udiane. Gur ankas sach sabd nisane”[18.16]: in accompaniment of Mardana on rebec. People were mesmerised at the wording of the song and the music. They flocked in large numbers to listen to the Guru: many became his followers. A sangat was set up at Dhaka. Word went across the area about Guru’s greatness. Famous saints of the area e.g., Smal Nath, Rewa Das, Chander Nath, Narain Das, Sheikh Ahmed, Nathe Shah, Loonia Siddh etc., paid their obeissance to the Guru and held discussions with him. Some of them tried to show their magical and spiritual powers but were subdued having seen the greatness of the Guru and the truth in hymns. Hindus in the area worshipped Dhakeshwri, Kamkhya, Bhairon, Nar Singh, Birs and Muslim bowed before tombs. Guru Ji delivered daily discourses to the sangat exposing the fallacy of worshipping the idols and the dead. They started worshipping One God, recited his Name regularly and stopped idol and tomb worship. [18.13]

There were 52 Akharas and 12 Sangats in Bengal during British period. [18.17] The only Sikh Sangat which retained its old feature is the one behind in University of Dacca. [18.18] This sangat was situated on the right side of the road going from the Ramana Race Course towards Nilkhet ….….. It was Almast who set up this sangat. Third in succession to Almast was Nathi Shah after whose name the sangat was known among the Sikhs. [18.18] It was known as 'Sujatpur Sikh Sangat', as it was situated in then Sujatpur mouza. Almast was sent by Baba Gurdita son of the sixth Sikh Guru, Hargobind Singh (1595-1644), during the reign of Emperor Jahangir. Some others believe that it was built by the Ninth Sikh Guru, Tegh Bahadur (1621-75), and that from here communication was maintained with other Sikh Gurdwaras in Bengal, Bihar and Orissa. When Guru Tegh Bahadur was at Dacca during the late 1660s, Bhai Nattha was the Udasi Mahant and Baba Bulaki Das the Guru's masand here. Bhaī Nattha is said to have constructed the Gurdwara building, with a square sanctum, which still exists. It was repaired by Mahant Prem Das in 1833. From 1915 to 1947, Sri Chandrajyoti served as the granthi. On the eve of the Partition, possession and priesthood was the subject of court cases between Baba Tribeni Das and another claimant Gobind Das and later between Tribeni Das and one Manik Lal. Ultimately Tribeni Das was adjudged the lawful guardian of the Gurdwara, but in the wake of the Partition, he left for India never to return. None except a lone brave Sikh, Bhai Swaran Singh, the last Granthi of the Nanak Shahi Gurdwara, remained there to look after them. In 1960-61, the East Pakistan Government passed an order to acquire 1.40 acres of the 1.63 acres of walled premises of the Gurdwara. Bhai Swaran Singh challenged the government in lower courts and ultimately in Dacca High Court. The case was pending there when Indo-Pak War started in December 1971. On or about 14th December 1971, he was shot dead by Pakistani Razakars along with Mohd-ul-Malik Haq, his Muslim friend, during the Pakistan army’s crackdown in 1971. Their bodies were buried side by side in the later's house.[18.19] The place suffered neglect thereafter.

After the conclusion of the war three days later, a Sikh deputation was sent from Takht Sri Patna Sahib to Dacca. With the help of Sikh soldiers the members of the deputation led by Captain Bhag Singh of Calcutta recovered possession of the Gurdwara, cleaned it and held a congregation in it on 2nd January, 1972. Sri Guru Granth Sahib was installed again at the shrine. Even Sayyad Nazar-ul-Islam, then acting President of Bangla Desh attended the congregation and gave assurance about the safety and reconstruction of this and the other Gurdwaras.[18.20]A tank and a well, said to have been dug by Bhaī Nattha, however, no longer exist. The Udasi mahants and the Sikh residents, who had been revering and managing them, had to leave East Bengal soon after the establishment of Pakistan.

The decorative art work on the interior wall was still intact when a Sikh commission visited it in January 1972 after Bangladesh emerged as a sovereign State. This sangat has been named as Gurdwara Nanak Shahi, Dhaka which commemorates Guru Nanak’s visit to Dacca in 1506-1507. It was one of the seven most known important historic Gurdwaras in Bangladesh. The new building of the Gurdwara is said to have been built in 1830. It is situated on the campus of the University of Dacca near the arts faculty building on Neelkhet Road, Ramna.
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Photo 18.2. and 18.3. Gurdwara Nanak Shahi, Nilkhet Road, Ramna Dhaka (near teachers students centre, Dhaka University)

The foot ware (kharawa) of Sri Guru Nanak Dev ji at Gurdwara Nanakshashi (Dhaka)

There was a handwritten copy of Guru Granth Sahib at Gurdwara Nanakshashi (Dhaka) which was looked after by the lady caretaker cum granthi Mata Kanchan Devi in 1971. During the Pakistan Army crackdown in Bangladesh in 1971, Mata Kanchan Devi wife of Swaran Singh was evacuated to Calcutta, along with the precious and beautiful Bir, where she died at the age of 110 years. The Bir was brought back by Captain Bhag Singh to the Gurdwara. The unique Bir and a water-colour painting of Guru Tegh Bahadur, sandals and other Relics were retrieved from the house.The present building of the Gurdwara was renovated in 1988-1989 and a parkarma verandah has been constructed on all four sides of the original building to protect it from wear and tear. [18.21]

The management of the Gurdwara is under a management committee now under the president of a Professor at Dhaka University. Around 10 Sikh Families residing transitorily belong mostly to officers and staff of Indian High Commission and on attachment from UNO and SAARC etc. There are no permanent Sikh residents in this country. Only a Granthi appointed by Takht Patna Sahib looks after the two Gurdwaras in Dhaka, However, kirtan is conducted every Friday from 11 AM to 1 PM, where devotees professing different faiths - Sikh, Hindu and Muslims and others, recite Gurbani Shabads in praise of God, the true Creator. Free weekly langar is regularly served on these days without any distinction of caste or creed. They all assemble here on Fridays and on Guru Nanak Birthdays and Vaisakhi. [18.22]

A Sikh Research Centre has been established in gurdwara premises with the efforts of Baba Sukha Singh of Sarhali Punjab India as per a news report of Times of India. In picture Baba ji is seen with VC of Dhaka University and Deputy High Commissioner Dhaka (a lady) who is general secretary of Bangladesh Gurdwaras Board in present times (2010) [18.23]
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18.4. This is the original paintings of Satguru Teg Bahadur Sahib, as painted by a painter of Dacca in 1667, when the Satguru Sahib was in Dacca in his second.
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18.5. A handwritten copy of Sri Guru Granth Sahib ji at Gurdwara Nanakshashi (Dhaka).
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18.6. Another photo of the handwritten copy of Sri Guru Granth Sahib ji at Gurdwara Nanakshashi
18.7. & 18.8. Two manuscripts writings

1. Earliest known Painting of Guru Tegh Bahadur drawn at Dacca; 2 & 3 handwritten manuscripts of Sri Guru Granth sahib in Dacca Gurdwara 4. Sikh priest Piara Singh at Gurdwara Nanakshahi Dacca1.5. VC Dhaka University with Baba Sukha Singh of Sirhali Punjabat the opening of langar & research centre at Gurdwara Nanakshahi

As per Times of India report presently 42 students were studying it, he said, adding that they were also planning to arrange a tour of religious places in Indian for these students. Many Hindu and Muslim followers of Sikhism regularly hold religious functions at the Gurdwara. Every Friday, more than 500 Hindus and a few Muslims gather at the Gurdwara to hold religious prayers, followed by langar. The Sampardaya has also made a large langar hall in the Gurdwara besides a sarai having seven rooms. The kar sewa being carried out with financial help from followers of Sampardaya spread across the world. It has now begun ‘kar sewa’ of Gurdwara Punjabi Lane in Chittagong, about 250 km from Dhaka, he stated.[18.23]

There are two hand-written Birs (Recessions) of Guru Granth Sahib in the Gurdwara, one of 18 x 12 inches with 1336 pages. Each page is decorated with art work on borders in seven different colours. The significance of this Bir lies in being a Relic rather than Granth Sahib per se. It weighs about 80 lbs and the leaves may wear out if used for reading. Accordingly, it has recently been rebound and placed in a glass case, along with other manuscripts, Photostat copies of some Hukam Namas (Original Hukam Namas were reported to be stolen), and a pair of Guru Tegh Bahadur’s wooden Kharavan (sandals) handed down from generation to generation are also kept in the show case. The last custodian being Mata Kanchan Devi, locally called Sikher Mata, or mother of the Sikhs. Devotees can view a document issued under Imperial (Aurangzeb) Farman by the then Mughal Governor, Shaista Khan, granting land to Guru Nanak Home exempted from taxes in perpetuity. [5] An oil painting, copy of the original painting of the Guru, is kept in Nanak Shahi Gurdwara. The original water colour painting was retrieved from the house which later came to known as Gurdwara Sangat Tola. His mother, a devout lady wanted to have a portrait of the Guru made, before the Guru returned to Punjab. The old lady engaged a renowned painter, Ahsan by name. The painter painted the body and the apparel but could not give finishing touches to the radiant face of the Guru. Seeing the painter in a predicament, the Guru took the brush in his own hand, corrected and completed the picture, and handed it to the lady. It is thus stated in Mehma Prakash, one of the oldest biographies of the Guru:-

"bada likhari leai mai satguru hazur tasvir likhai sagal ang bastr subh likha mukh kamal Prabhu nahin likh saka dekh Dial kalam hath lina nij hath sudhar sampuran kina tab mai ko murat Prabh dina".

This painting is now believed to be in custody of the Victoria Museum Calcutta, where it was taken to be restored in its torn portion and for preservation treatment, by Late Captain Bhag Singh. [24]

Guru Tegh Bahadur also visited Dhaka and stayed at a place which later came to be known as Gurdwara Sangat Tola situated in old Dhaka. It was especially built by Bhai Bulaki, the Cardinal of Sikh church in old Dhaka, which remained the abode of Guru Tegh Bahadur for about two years. The news of the birth of his only son Sri Gobind Rai - Guru Gobind Singh ji Maharaj – in Patna is stated to have received by Guru Tegh Bahadur when he was sojourning in Dhaka while Sakhian mentions the place of news to be Dhubri. The quarter in which the Sikh sangat (Gurdwara) is situated is called after it Sangat Tola…commemorating memory of Guru Tegh Bahadur’s visit.[18.24]

There are also about eight or nine smaller gurdwaras in different parts of Bangladesh. The Bangladesh Gurdwara Management Committee runs the affairs of these gurdwaras with financial support from the devotees, foreign visitors, donors and grants from the Bangladesh Government. [Sambaru Chandra Mohant’s statement]

Only six gurdwaras remained in East Bengal (Bangla Desh) in 1970. Three were in the city of Dacca, one in Chittagong and one in Mymensingh. The most important of them was the Gurdwara at Rayer Bazar Dacca, built to commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit. In Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, it is mentioned as Dhan Mandi. It was a protected temple (under the Ancient Monument Protection Act) in the British Period. After the partition of India, there being no granth tresspassers occupied it and converted it into their house. [18.24]

As regards the relics, only one out of the five old, handwritten and dated recessions of Guru Granth Sahib, noticed and described by Sardar G.B. Singh in 1945 and Captain Bhag Singh in 1971, is now extant. That too is in a highly dilapidated condition and the page expected to bear its date is washed out.

The only other extant relic is a pair of Kharavan (wooden sandals) placed on a chauki (a low wooden stool), used by Guru Tegh Bahadur and bestowed upon Bulaki Ram on the eve of his departure for Assam. The original painting of the Guru, drawn by a contemporary painter of Shaista Khan’s court, is also missing and its beautiful colour copy stands exhibited alongwith the above holy items in the said Gurdwara Nanak Shahi.

The two hukumnamas (edicts) of Guru Gobind Singh, addressed to the Dhaka Sangat, found in Gurdwara Sangat Tola at the time of the surrender of Pakistani Army to General Jagjit Singh Arora, are no longer available there.

In order to preserve all that which is now extant, to retrieve all that which has been usurped, or is occupied without authorisation and to re-establish the desecrated and obliterated one, Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee, Amritsar should take immediate necessary steps with due permission and help of the Bangladesh Government and in collaboration with the Sikh organisations of West Bengal and the neighbouring countries (such as Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Japan) as well as of the NRIs of the UK and USA, etc. under the kind advice of the Indian High commission in Bangladesh.

At present only a non-official committee, called the Bangladesh Gurdwara Management Board, Calcutta, is engaged in make-shift arrangements for gurdwara’s upkeep under very peculiar circumstances.

In the past it had an entrance from the north, a ditch and burial ground on the south, and a pond on the west with concrete steps to the water. Apart from the main temple there were a number of rooms for accommodating devotees. In all, there were nine rooms. On the north-east of the main temple there was an office and on the east the granthi (priest) had his residence.

The gurdwara is open to all, irrespective of race, religion, caste or sex. The place of prayer is known as 'darbar sahib' and has entrances on all sides, unlike other places of worship. At the northern end of the prayer hall a copy of the holy book of the Sikhs, the granth shahib, is kept on a wooden platform. A pair of wooden sandals, believed to belong to Guru Teg Bahadur Singh, has been preserved in a glass box just under Sri Guru Granth Sahib.

The daily religious rites at the gurdwara include reading from the Granth Sahib and recital of prayers.. The chief granthi reads from the Sri Guru Granth Sahib. kirtan and prayers continue for over two hoursculminating into freel langar. There are also arrangements to distribute food in the morning. Sikhs regard this as a way of enhancing understanding among people. Social functions such as Baishakhi are celebrated. Suitable accommodation is available for visitors.

References

[18.1] Dhaka | River, History, Definition, Map, & Facts
[18.2] G.B. Singh, Sikh Relics in East Bengal
[18.3] Dhaka | River, History, Definition, Map, & Facts
[18.4] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr. 1969, Travels of Guru Nanak, Chandigarh, Punjab University, 3rd edition 1997, pp. 40-41
[18.5] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa, Part I, Patiala, Bhasha Vibhag, p.15
[18.6]Surinder Singh Kohli, edited, 1975, Janam Sakhi Bhai Bala, Chandigarh, Punjab University, 2nd edition 1990, p.151
[18.7] Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, p.41
[18.8] Arjan Singh Mann, Dr. 1959, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Assam Pradesh, New Delhi, Sikh Publishing House, p.152
[18.9] Extract from the Romance of an Eastern Capital by F.B. Bradley-Birt, London, 1906 Beyond the Idgah, further away from the city lay another centre of interest, the memories of which have long since grown vague and dim. Out in the waste, half hidden in the bramble growth, a well and a broken arch are the only visible signs of the Sikh monastery that once flourished here. The well is known as Guru Nanak’s well, after Guru Nanak, the founder of Sikh religion. There is a local tradition that the great teacher once visited Dacca and drank from this well, to the waters of which miraculous properties have ever since been attributed. Another and more possible story is that it was Guru Tegh Bahadur the ninth Guru, who came to Dacca in the time of Aurangzeb and gathered about him a large following, which has never quite died out in the city. Close by the race course there is a Sikh temple where the Sikhs still meet and worship. (pp. 271-72)
[18.10] Extract from Notes on the Antiquities of by Sayad Aulad Kasam, Dacca, 1904 ‘Some three hundred yards to the east of Dara Beghum’s mausoleum there is a large, deep masonry well, known as Guru Nanak’s well after Guru Nanak, the founder of the Sikh religion. Tradition says that during his visit to Dacca, the Guru once drank the water of this well. Since then the water is supposed to possess the property of healing diseases……There was a Sikh monastery close by. One arch of it is alone is standing now’. (p.33)
A report by Prof. Harnam Singh Shan (Sikh Review April 2003) Prof. Harnam Singh Shan, former Chairman of Guru Nanak Chair and Head of Panjabi and Sikh Studies at Panjab University, Chandigarh, participated in the 17th Conference of the International Association of Historians of Asia. After the Conference, Prof. Shan paid obeisance at the historic Sikh shrines, and had a look at the relics associated with Guru Nanak (1504 A.D.) and Guru Tegh Bahadur (1666 A.D.). These shrines have remained neglected ever since the Partition of India in 1947, because access to these had been denied to the Sikhs during the Pakistani regime.
[18.11] Arjan Singh Mann, Dr. 1959, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Assam Pradesh, New Delhi, Sikh Publishing House, p.152
[18.12] Dacca gazetteer edited by B.C. Allen, published 1912 A.D. ; “The sangat at Sangattola close to Shtrapur is now the chief place of worship but some Sikhs still visit the ruins at Jafrabad where there is a well whose waters are thought to have curative powers.”
[18.13] Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa,p.16-17
[18.14] Gurmukh Singh, September 1995, Sikh Shrines, Amritsar, Singh Bros, p.75-77
[18.15] Gyani Gian Singh, 1997, Gurdham Sangreh, Sri Amritsar, Dharam Parchar Committee SGPC, 15 Dec p.40
[18.16] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.221.
[18.17] Extract from Telegraph of Dacca 1838, Vol II by James Taylor Calcutta, p.243: “The Hindu places of worship in the city are 52 Akharas, 55 Kali Barrees and 12 Sanghuts. The Brahmins attached to the temple of Daccaeserry Doora, were 18 in number and those who perform Jujmanee ceremonies amounted to 345 in the year 1838.
[18.18] Extract from Dacca: A Record of Its Changing Fortunes, by Ahmad Hasan Dani, PhD Dacca 1962, pp. 171-72)
[18.19] http//Allabout sikhs.com/world-gurdwara/gurdwara-nanak-shahi-dacca/view. html ,
[18.20] http//www.tribuneindia.com/2003/200130105/cth1.htm34
[18.21] Pamphlet Gurdwaras of Bangla Desh Gurdwara Management committee, Patna Sahib
[18.22] Extract from letter dated 5.6.1970 from Sh J.M. Chatterjee, Akal-Niwas Sarojini Pally, P.O. Barasat, West Bengal addressing President Sri Guru Singh Sabha Calcutta; copy with Giani Gurbachan Singh, Manager Takhat Harmandar Sahib Patna.
[18.23] Sayid Aulad Kasam (p.36) Gurdwara Nanak Shahi, Dhaka - SikhiWiki, free Sikh encyclopedia.
[18.24] A report by Prof. Harnam Singh Shan (Sikh Review April 2003) ref 9

External Links

1. Gurdwara Nanak Shahi, Dhaka - SikhiWiki, free Sikh encyclopedia.
2. Sikhreview.org, Sikh Review, Calcutta
3. Gurdwara Nanak Shahi: A spiritual refuge
4. Allaboutsikhs.com
 
Last edited:

dalvinder45

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Jul 22, 2023
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GURU NANAK IN ASSAM & KAMRROP

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1707099411905.png

Map 19.1 Map Guru Nanak in Kamroop and Assam

Assam
is a state of India in the north-eastern region with its capital at Dispur near Gwahati located south of the eastern Himalayas comprising the Brahmaputra Valley and the Barak river valleys along with the Karbi Anglong and the North Cachar Hills with an area of 30,285 square miles (78,438 km²). The Land of mighty Brahamputra banked by lush green tree gardens and tropical forests, Assam is the North Eastern State of India bounded by Tibet and Bhutan in the North, Burma and China in the east, Burma in the south and Bengal and Bangla-Desh in the west. Earlier a composite state with a total area of 9 millions miles is now divided into 7 state territories i.e. Arunachal Pradesh, Nagaland, Manipur, Mizoram, Tripura, and Meghalaya which bifurcated from it in sixties. Geographically it is connected to India through Siligurhi corridor also called chicken neck. Assam shares international borders with Bhutan and Bangladesh; and cultures, peoples and climate with South-East Asia. Assam became a part of the British India after the British occupied the region following the First Anglo-Burmese War of 1824–1826. Prior to the thirteenth century, the present region was called Kāmarūpa or, alternatively, Prāgjyotiṣapur. [19.1] [19.2].

The word 'Assamese' is an English name based on the anglicised form 'Assam' from the native word "Asam", which in its turn is connected with the Shans who invaded the Brahmaputra Valley in the 13th century. [19.3][19.4] The term 'Axom or Asom' was earlier used to mean the Shan community...Subsequently the term came to be used to mean also the territory they ruled. The term 'Assam' is, relatively speaking, of recent origin and traces back to the tradition of the Ahoms who entered the Brahmaputra valley in the thirteenth century." [19.5][19.6] But most probably Asama meaning peerless or unequalled is a latter day Sanskritisation of some earlier form like Āchām [7] In medieval times the Mughals used Asham and Kamrup to denote a region within Assam, and during British colonialism, the English used Assam.The Ahom king was called Swargdeo, who had to be a descendant of the first king Sukapha who founded the Ahom Kingdom in India with boundaries between the Dikhau and the Dihing rivers in the 13th century, and by the end of the 19th century, the western outpost was the Assam Chouki, or Hadira Chouki, contiguous with British territories. The southern boundaries were defined by Doboka and Dimapur. The eastern portion around Bengmara, the Matak regions, was under the autonomous control of the B{censored}napati. The Kingdom of Assam, where it is entered from Bengal, commences on the north of the Berhamputra, at the Khonder Chokey, nearly opposite to the picturesque estate of the late Mr Raush at Goalpara; and at the Nagrabaree Hill on the South". [19.8]

Assam during 15-16th century:
During 15th and 16th centuries Assam had two major parts; the eastern most being called Assam under the Ahom rulers and the western part was known as Kamrup under Koch rulers; the loose boundaries between the two being the Barnadi River on the northern bank of the Brahmaputra River.

Ahom Kingdom (1228–1826)

Ahoms had established a kingdom in the Brahmaputra valley in Assam that maintained its sovereignty for nearly 600 years and successfully resisted Mughal expansion in North-East India. Established by Sukapha, a Tai prince from Mong Mao, it began as a Mong in the upper reaches of the Brahamputra River. It expanded suddenly under Suhungmung in the 16th century and became multi-ethnic in character, casting a profound effect on the political and social life in the entire Brahmaputra valley. Assam was in turmoil in the sixteenth century.

Along its boundary the various small rulers of 15th century i.e., Kamta Kings, Ahom King Chutiya Kings, Kachari kings and Bhuyan Chieftains were struggling hard and fighting amongst each other to gain supremacy. “West of the Kacharis on the south bank (of the Brahmaputra), and of the Chutiya on the north, were a number of petty chiefs called Bhuyas (or Bhuyans). These chiefs were independent of the others within their own domain. But they seem to have been in the habit of joining their forces whenever

they were threatened by a common enemy. The boundary between the tract ruled by these Bhuiyas and the kingdom of Kamarupa doubtless varied from time to time; a powerful prince would bring many of them under his control, but they would again become independent when this sceptre passed into the hands of a weaker ruler. The strongest among them was Suhungmung (1497–1539 AD) also known as Dahingia Raja who ultimately subdued Chuttiyas and Kacharis during his rule. They were in this process when Guru Nanak is said to have visited the area and his contact with various kings needs to be studied in this light as shown in the sketch at table 1: Change of Kamrup to Assam
1707099262167.png

Table 19.1 Change of Kamrup to Assam

Upper boundary between Assam and Kamroop during the time of Guru Nanak’s visit was the confluence of Brahmputra and Barnadi river. Kamroop lay between Barnadi and Manas rivers. Barnadi is a river of Assam which rises in the Himalayas and enters the valley of the Brahmaputra at 26° 13′ N. and 91° 48′ E. From this point it once formed the boundary between the Districts of Kamrup and Darrang, but the river has so often changed its channel that its present course is no longer recognized as the boundary. Near the hills the Barnadi flows through forest and grass jungle, but farther south villages appear on the banks. The most important places are Sonarikhal, where two small fairs are held, and Magamuri market in the Tamulpur tahsil, which is situated about 4 miles from the Barnadi, but is a considerable centre of river-borne trade. A ferry plies throughout the year at Dumunichaki on the trunk road. The river is largely used as a trade route, and boats of 4 tons burthen can proceed as far as Sonarikhal throughout the year, and to Malmuragaon in the rainy season. It has a total length of about 100 miles.[19.9]

Kamroop

Kavroo Des is mentioned in Janamsakhi edited by Bhai Vir Singh [19.10] (Tab Kauroo des ai nikle, p.74-79) and in Janam Sakhi Bhai Bala [19.11] (Aage karoo des jai pae, p.152). It is realted to Kamrup.

Table 2: Episodes related to Kamproop in various Janamsakhis pagewise

SrEpisodePuratan JS Vir Singh pagesPuratan JS SS Ashok pagesJS Bhai Bala : Kohli pages
1Kamroop74-7964-66152-153
2Kalyug79-8266-68143-146
3Keed Nagar83-84
4Keep settled (Vasde Rahe)85146
5Be uprooted (Ujad jave)85-86147
6Entering Assa Desh86-94147-151

If we see the sequence of episodes; 1 to 5 can be related to Kamroop and 6 to 11 to Assam. Hence these are dealt under separate headings under Guru Nanak in Kamroop and Guru Nanak in Assam. The anecdotes that can be related to Kamroop are: Magical women of Kamroop, Meeting Kalyug, Keed Nagar, Keep settled and Be uprooted. The episodes started by visiting Assa Des can be related to Assam. These are ‘Meeting Sheikh Farid and installing a new king’, Mardana blessed with Amrit, Kauda Rakshash and ‘Meeting Jhanda Badhi’. For explaining the contents of these anecdotes Paratan Janam Sakhi edited by Bhai Vir Singh has been taken as the base to study episodes of of Kamroop.

The Koch king ruled the then Kamroop kingdom and its extent included Dhubri, Goalpara, Kokrajhar, Barpeta, Nalabari and Kamrup district of modern Assam, portions of Northern Bengal and Mymen Singh of Bangla Desh. [19.12] According to D. Nath, 1989, [13] Bishwa Singh ruled over from 1509-1540. Bishwa Singha also subjugated Bhuyans. Since this is generally the period of Guru Nanak’s visit to Kamroop, Koch King Bishwa Singh can be considered as the ruler of Kamroop.

References


[19.1] Bhuyan S.K., Tunkhungia Buranji or A History of Assam (1681–1826) 1968 p. 199
[19.2] Barbaruah Hiteswar Ahomar-Din or A History of Assam under the Ahoms 1981 p. 299
[19.3] Barua Gunaviram Assam Buranji or A History of Assam 2008 p. 108
[19.4] Gait E.A. A History of Assam 1926 Calcutta and Shimla Thacker & Co p. 230
[19.5] Bhuyan S.K. Tunkhungia Buranji or A History of Assam (1681–1826) 1968 p. 206
[19.6] Barbaruah Hiteswar Ahomar-Din or A History of Assam under the Ahoms 1981 p. 320
[19.7] Neog, M, 1980, Early History of the Vaisnava Faith and Movement in Assam, Delhi: Motilal Banarasidass, pp. 53-55
[19.8] Wade, Dr John Peter, 1805, A Geographical Sketch of Assam, Asiatic Annual Register, reprinted (Sharma,1972, p.341)
[19.9] Page Not Found -- $NAME -- Digital South Asia Library
[19.10] Bhai Vir Singh, Jan 2006, Puratan Janamsakhi, Bhai Vir Singh Sahit Sadan New Delhi.
[19.11] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr 1997, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University Chandigarh 3rd edition.
[19.12] Sircar J.N. 19 90 and Sircar D.C1990 as cited in 10
[19.13] Nath D, 1989, History of Koch Kingdom, 1515-1615, Delhi, pp. 27-28.
 

dalvinder45

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Jul 22, 2023
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KAMRUP

1707138686858.png

Map 20.1. of Assam including erstwhile Kamrup

From Dhaka Guru Nanak set out for Kamrup. The Koch kings ruled the then Kamroop kingdom and its extent included Dhubri, Goalpara, Kokrajhar, Barpeta, Nalabari and Kamrup district of modern Assam, portions of Northern Bengal and Mymen Singh of Bangla Desh [20.1][20.2]. According to D. Nath, 1989, [20.3] Bishwa Singh ruled over from 1509-1540. Bishwa Singha also subjugated Bhuyans. Since this is generally the period of Guru Nanak’s visit to Kamroop, Koch King Bishwa Singh can be considered as the ruler of Kamroop.

Those days the most frequented route of travel from Dhaka to Kamrup was the Brahmaputra River. The present day districts of Goalpara, Kamrup-Rangpur and Cooch- Bihar constituted Kamrup.Guru Nanak reached Dhubri by boat which is these days an important town of the Goalpara district. To commemorate Guru Nanak’s visit to the place, Guru Tegh Bahadur later on got a raised a platform in the memory of Guru Nanak by bringing in earth from Rangamati. The Goalpara Gazetteer records that the Muslim soldiers helped, Guru Tegh Bahadur by bringing in the earth in their shields.

From Dhubri Guru Nanak went on to Guwahati by boat in the Brahmaputra. The town was then named Prayāga Jyotispur.In the beginning of the 16th century, the people of Kamrup were very proficient in tantra. They were worshippers of Shakti. Although the Muslims had once demolished the temple of Kāmākhya goddess, but the people s belief could not be shattered.Mostly the people of Kochi tribe inhabited the Kamrup region. They worshipped goddess Kāmākhya and offered human sacrifice to the goddess.Janamsakhis are unanimous in Guru Nanak’s visit to Kamroop though they are vague about date and time, places, events and persons visited buy Guru Nanak. They being the oldest source of Guru Nanak’s life and travels help us with some information about events and their possible location and individuals involved. The most discussed episode from these Jansakhis is of the magical women of Kamroop.

Both these Janam Sakhis have the same anecdote stating that the women were the leaders of the area and they magically converted Mardana into a lamb which Guru Nanak got released. The event has been related to Khasi and Jaintia Hills where the women domination existed.

Redeeming of Noorshah

Episode in Puratan Janamskhi


The episode of redeeming Noor Shah and other magical women in Kamroop is recorded by Bhai Vir Singh as ‘Noor Shah Nistara’ in Puratan Janamsakhi.[20.4.]

“They (Guru Nanak and his companions) came to Kauru (Kamrup) state. One day Mardana felt hungry. Mardana said: “Respected Lord! If you permit I shall go to the city.” Guru Nanak said, “Mardana! This is Kavroo (Kamroop). This is ruled by women. If you wish, you can go (at your own risk).” Mardana went and stood before the house of a woman. The woman called him and asked the reason of his standing. He asked for food. The woman called him in. As he entered her house, the woman put a thread around his neck and tied him like a lamb. She went to bring water from outside source. Baba (Guru Nanak) had an insight and found Mardana tied like a sheep. Baba came to the place. By then woman returned after bringing pitcher of water. Guru Nanak asked,” Has our man come here?” She said: “No! No one came here, Check yourself.”

Baba uttered: “The trader women of barren land, ask fragrance for free. Without good deeds, how can they get their husbands?”

At this the pitcher got stuck on woman’s head, it could not be brought down. She carried it on her head due to her falsehood. Noorshah (their leader of the area) was informed: An expert magician has come. The pitcher from the head (of the woman) has got stuck; it cannot be brought down. Noorshah ordered: “Whosoever is expert magician in the city must not stay back’. Where ever expert magicians were in the city, they all came with their magical powers. Some came on a tree; some came on lion’s skin; some came on moon; some came on wall; some brought a garden along and some came beating the drum. Everyone tried to mesmerize in her own way by tying threads around. Baba saw Mardana tied Baba laughed and said: “O Mardana! Bow down saying Lord’s Name (Waheguru).” The thread broke. Guru Nanak gave rebec to Mardana and asked him to play the rebec. Mardana played the rebec. Guru Nanak sang Wadhans M:1

The virtuous bride ravishes and enjoys her Husband Lord; why does the unworthy one cry out? If she were to become virtuous, then she too could enjoy her Husband Lord. My Husband Lord is loving and playful; why should the soul-bride enjoy any other? If the soul-bride does good deeds, and makes her mind the thread, she obtains the jewel, which cannot be purchased for any price, strung upon the thread of her consciousness. I ask, but I do not follow the way shown to me; still, I claim to have reached my destination. I do not speak with You, O my Husband Lord; how then can I come to have a place in Your home? O Nanak, without the One, there is no other at all. If the soul-bride remains attached to You then she shall enjoy her Husband Lord.

Noorshah tried every magic; nothing happened. Guru Nanak asked: “Have you agreed to the crime?” She kept her head down. All the drums stopped and started dancing on the hymn. Guru Nanak said: “Mardana! Play the rebec,” and sang in Aasa Rag.
The urges of the heart are like cymbals and ankle-bells; the drum of the world resounds with the beat. Narad dances to the tune of the Dark Age of Kali Yuga; where can the celibates and the men of truth place their feet? Nanak is a sacrifice to the Nam, the Name of the Lord. The world is blind; our Lord and Master is All-seeing. The disciple feeds on the Guru; out of love for bread, he comes to dwell in his home. If one were to live and eat for hundreds of years, that day alone would be auspicious, when he recognizes his Lord and Master. Beholding the sight of the petitioner, compassion is not aroused. No one lives without give and take. The king administers justice only if his palm is greased. No one is moved by the Name of God. O Nanak, they are human beings in form and name only; by their deeds they are dogsthis is the Command of the Lord’s Court.

Thereafter Guru Baba uttered a Shlok.

We are good at talking, but our actions are bad. Mentally, we are impure and black, but outwardly, we appear white. We imitate those who stand and serve at the Lord’s Door. They are attuned to the Love of their Husband Lord, and they experience the pleasure of His Love. They remain powerless, even while they have power; they remain humble and meek. O Nanak, our lives become profitable if we associate with them. (SGGS, p.85)



At last, they fell at Guru Nanak’s feet and stood putting cloth around their necks and said: “How can we be redeemed? How can this pitcher removed from the head?” Guru Baba said: “Calling God’s name (Wahiguru) you should remove the pitcher from her head. You will also be redeemed. Go on praying on God’s Name.” They all fell on Guru’s feet and became the True God seeker Sikhs.

Location of Guru Nanak’s visit to Kamroop

There are two different views about place of the legend of Mardana's conversion to a lamb. While Gyani Gyan Singh [20.5] and other writers attribute this to a place named Dhanpur (near Dacca) now Bangladesh, Dr. Tarlocahn Singh [20.6] relates this incidence to Guwahati. According to him Mardana was made a lamb by Noor Shah at Guwahti. Mardana, eager to see the town, proceeded alone after taking permission from Guru Nanak. At that time Guwahti was said to be ruled by a queen. An indication to this is available in "The Background of Assamese culture' by S.K., Bhuyan[20.7] as follows.

"A state is stated to have existed in a certain part of the country inhabited only by women, governed by a woman ruler with help of women ministers and soldiers and any male stranger unknowingly stepping into it was sapped to death."

As Mardana entered the town, the local women converted Mardana into a lamb and tied him up under a roof. After the long wait for return of Mardana, Guru Nanak himself left for the city to search for him. The magic women among whom Noor Shah was the chief, were pleased to find Guru Nanak also in their net.[20..8]

They tried all tricks of magic on the Guru but failed. They realised that the Guru was a great saint and no ordinary person. Meanwhile Guru Nanak went to Mardana and broke the thread from his neck. The magic spell broke and Mardana turned into original shape of a man.

Noor Shah and the other women soon recognised their folly and fell at Guru's feet and requested for forgiveness which he gave without reservation. He established a place for religious meetings and prayer (Dharamsal) at Guwahati and proceeded towards Hajo, another Hindu religious centre. He visited Matsayadhavaj, where a temple exists in honour of Lord Vishnu. Mardana Kund and Bala Kund commemorate Guru's visit to this place. [20.9]

Bhai Vir Singh mentions in Guru Nanak Chamtkar [20.10] p.232: The real name of Noor Shah was Padma. Her father’s name was Narinder Nath. A Muslim Sufi Noor Shah was an expert in magic. Narinder Nath and daughter were so impressed by him that they became his followers. When Noor Shah died, his seat was taken over by Padma. As a result people started calling Padma as Noor Shah.

Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur [20.11] considers this event to have happened at Dhanpur. Dr Tarlochan Singh [20.12] also follows the same line and states that this event occurred at Dhanpur. He also quoted Bhai Vir Singh and Gyani Gyan Singh to confirm his view point. (p.169) [20.13] Gyani Gian Singh[20.14] mentions the location of Barchha Sahib at Dhanpur and a grave of Noor Shah to a village Kalar near Dacca. He also mentions Guwahati, Gwalpada and Damdama Sahib as the places connected with the visit of Ninth Guru (p.120) [20.15] in Kamroop. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli also mentions the place of this event as Dhanpur (p.42)[20.16] but according to SK Bhuyan [20.17] “Guru Nanak, the father of the valiant community, had the bitter anguish of finding the brave Punjabi servant Mardana converted in to lamb before his very eyes by a woman of this country (Kamroop), who could as well reconvert the young man to his natural anatomical shape according to her personal and private needs.[20.17] All the Janamsakhis and other sources agree that this event occurred in Kamroop. Dhanpur is not in Kamroop; hence cannot be accepted at the face value since only Gyani Gian Singh has mentioned this originally which appears to have been copied by others.

Almost all the Janamsakhis mention of magic in Kamrup. Bhai Bala Janamsakhi edited by Surinder Singh Kohli though starts differently “Age Karu des jai pae. Tan Mardana akhia ji, ih sahar tan hachha nazar anwda hai. Ithon kuchh khai aavan. …….oh dovain sikh hoi Guru Nanak de una de pichhe sangat hoi…” [20.18] Later the story is generally on the similar lines though the name Noorshah has not appeared in this Janamsakhi.

In Guru Nanak Chamtkar, [2019] p.232, Bhai Vir Singh mentions: The real name of Noor Shah was Padma. Her father’s name was Narinder Nath. A Muslim Sufi Noor Shah was an expert in magic. Narinder Nath and daughter were so impressed by him that they became his followers. When Noor Shah died, his seat was taken over by Padma. As a result people started calling Padma as Noor Shah.



Janam Sakhi B-40 ed by Piar Singh (2nd edn 1989) [20.20] published by Guru Nanak Dev University Amritsar, pp. 85-86 has also got the story of Magic women on similar lines without naming the place as Kamroop and the name of the leader as Noorshah.

Both Giani Lal Singh [20.21] and Dr Surinder Singh Kohli [20.22]accept the existence of Gurdwara Damdama Sahib constructed at the place where the Guru rested at Dhubri. This researcher has visited the Gurdwara at Dhubri twice first in 1971 and later in 1988, 2014, and 2015and found Gurdwara Damdama Sahib East Garo Hills Dhubri Sahib commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit to the area near Gurdwara Guru Tegh Bahadur.

Janamsakhis mention Noorshah as the leader of the community[20.23]. Garo tribe living in Dhubri and the adjoining Garo Hill Districts of Meghalaya has the matrilineal system. This Garo area starts from the other bank of Brahmaputra and can be reached by boat. Meghalaya has one of the world's largest surviving matrilineal system. Since this is the only place where the matrilineal system existed at the time in India, and this being a part of Kamroop state, the event of Noorshah and other women most likely relates to Garo area.

The Garo Kingdom of Meghalaya originated from Tibet, from where they went to the present Cooch Behar and then to Dhubri. Then they moved on to Jogighopa, present Kamakhya Hills, along the Brahmaputra valley and finally spread in Goalpara or the Habraghat Pargana. The Garos prospered in the Habraghat Pargana neighborhood.
1707138784857.png

Photo 21.1 Damdama Sahib East Garo Hills.​
1707138821428.png

21.2 Gurdwara Guru Tegh Bahadur Sahib Dhubri

1707138950063.png
1707138871322.png
21.3. Old Manuscript of Sri Guru Granth sahib. 21.4. Well got dug by Guru Tegh Bahdur
1707139090367.png
1707139105604.png

21.5.An Old Photo of Damdma Sahib 21.6. The Pathar thrown by Neta Dhoban on Guru Tegh Bahadur

The Garos and also the Khasis and Jaintias of Meghalaya are purely matrilineal society and as such the descent of an individual either men or women is always reckoned and traced from the mother alone and through her genealogical tree traces its origin back to the common ancesters. The matrilineal system gave the woman, the wife and the mother, a social rather than a personal standing.[20.24]

In this matrilineal society, the blood relations on the mother's side are known as the "Cognates" and "Agnates" refer to the paternal side. The cognates trace their origin from a common ancestress and their lineal descent is from mother to daughter, just the opposite from other societies. Marriage is also strictly exogamous, i.e., outside the cognates. Marriage with agnates is permissible subject to certain restrictions. Marriage with near cousins is forbidden. The inheritance in the society is strictly determined by the principle of Unigeniture.
1707139208746.png

In the Garo lineage system, the youngest daughter inherits the family property by default, unless another daughter is so named by the parents. She then becomes designated as nokna meaning 'for the house or home'. If there are no daughters, a chosen daughter-in-law (bohari) or an adopted child (deragata) comes to stay in the house and inherit the property. The Khasi and Jaintia (also called Syntengs) have the custom of ia rap iing, where the family adopts a girl from another family, perform religious ceremonies with the community, and she then becomes ka trai iing (head of the house).[20..25]

Dhubri area is adjoining East Garo Hills. Before going into Garo Hills the Garo tribe had a control of Dhubri areas of Kamoroop as well. The area of Gurdwara Dumduma Sahib is still known as East Garo Hills and named as such. This was got confirmed by the researcher from Additional Deputy Commissioner of Dhubri after he checked up the records. Guru Nanak’s visit is still known as Garo Hill area. Since the women controlled the Garo tribe, it might have been under control of Queen Noor Shah who practiced black magic, and possessed strange powers. She is stated to have many women slaves to whom she had taught witchcraft and black magic.

Thus Noorshah being the leader of community indicates that she belonged to Garo tribe. Noorshah is a Muslim name. The Dhubri district is one among the many Muslim Majority districts of Assam. The largest religious group in the district are the Muslims with 1,216,455 (74.29%) followers, while Hindus/Sikhs and Christians constitute 405,065 and 12,477 inhabitants respectively. [20.26][20.27]

Muslim Kingdom:

The invasion of western Assam by Allauddin Hussein of Gaur up to Barnadi river in 1498 is recorded in coins from the early sixteenth century, declaring Hussein as the conqueror of Kamru.[20.28][20.29] As stated above Allauddin Hussain Shah had extended his rule in 1498 till Barnadi covering entire Kamroop. It showed that Islamic influence existed in the region before Guru Nanak’s visit and Sufi saints might have visited during the period. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli while commenting in Janam Sakhi Bhai Bala mentions: “Shiekh Braham, in the lineage of Pir Shiekh Farid of Pattan” (Patan de Pir Sheikh Farid di aulad Sheikh Braham wala Raja) [20.30] (p. 121)

Dr Kohli mentions that Guru Nanak also visited Khasi Hills (Travels of Guru Nanak). [20.31] As the tribesmen there too follow the traditional matrilineal norm, wherein the Khun Khaddu (or the youngest daughter) inherits all the property and responsibilities for the family. Having visited Dhubri, this researcher visited Guwahati and Shillong to trace the origin of the event but could not relate this event to any other place than Dhubri and adjoining areas. Thus the location of this event should be attributed to Dhubri or adjoining Garo Hill Districts. Dhubri is on national highway Guwahati-Siliguri-Patna. To reach by air nearest airports are Guwahati and Bagdogra. From Guwahati and Siliguri close to Bagdogra, intercity trains are available direct to Dhubri. 44 trains are available on new Jalpaiguri-Guwahati route each day. New Delhi-Dibrugarh Rajdhani also gets you closer at New Cooch Behar wherefrom train or local/hired transport can take one to Dhubri. Gurdwara Sahib has good arrangements for stay.

References

[20.1] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr 1997, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University Chandigarh 3rd edition.
[20.2] Sircar J.N. 19 90 and Sircar D.C1990 as cited in 10
[20.3] Nath D, 1989, History of Koch Kingdom, 1515-1615, Delhi, pp. 27-28.
[20.4] Puratan Janamsakhi edited by Bhai Vir Singh: 2006, pp.74-79
[20.5] Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur; Guru Khalsa Twareekh, 1955 (3rd edn), p. 68
[20.6] Tarlochan Singh (Dr) Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak Devji, p. 172.
[20.7] Bhuyan SK Dr., 1968, Tunkhungia Buranji or A History of Assam (1681–1826), p. 199
[20.8] Surinder Singh Kohli (Dr.) (ed.) 1990, Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, Punjab University Publication Bureau, Chandigarh, Second edn, pp. 152-153.
[20.9] Bhai Vir Singh Noor Shah Nistara’ in Puratan Janamsakhi
[20.10] Bhai Vir Singh, Guru Nanak Chamtkar, 2nd edn, p.232
[20.11] Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur; Guru Khalsa Twareekh, 1955 (3rd edn), p. 68
[20.12.] Mohammad Kazim wrote in Description of Assam, wrote in Asiatic Researches I, p. 181 as quoted by Tarlochan Singh (Dr) Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak Devji, p. 172.
[20.13] Trilochan Singh (Dr) Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak Devji, p. 169
[20.14]. Gyani Gyan Singh, p.120
[20.15]. Op.Cit.
[20.16] Dr. Surinder Singh Kohli, p.42
[20.17]. Bhuyan SK Dr., 1968, Tunkhungia Buranji or A History of Assam (1681–1826), p. 199
[20.18]. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak p.42
[20.19]. Bhai Vir Singh, Guru Nanak Chamtkar, second edn, p.232
[20.20]. Piar Singh, 1989, B-40 Janamsakhi Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Guru Nanak Dev University, Sri Amritsar, p.12
[20.21]. Gyani Gian Singh, 2002 (reprint), Gurdham Sangreh, Dharam Parchar Committee Sri Amritsar, p.40, p.120.
[20.22]. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak p.42
[20.23] Surinder Singh Kohli (Dr.) (ed.) 1990, Janamsakhi Bhai Bala, Punjab University Publication Bureau, Chandigarh, Second edn , pp. 152-153.
[20.24] (a) Sarkar, J N., 1990, "Koch Bihar, Kamrup and the Mughals, 1576–1613", in Barpujari, H K, The Comprehensive History of Assam: Medieval Period, Political II, Guwahati: Publication Board, Assam, pp. 92–103; (b) Sircar, D C., 1990, "Pragjyotisha-Kamarupa", in Barpujari, H K, The Comprehensive History of Assam I, Guwahati: Publication Board, Assam, pp. 59–171
[20.25] Sujan Rai Bhandari, 1972, Khulastut Twareekh, (Punjabi version), Punjabi University Patiala (pp. 54-55) originally written in 1696 (ix).
[20.26] Garo people - Wikipedia
[20.27] District Census 2011. Census 2011.co.in. 2011. Retrieved 2011-09-30.
[20.28] Sircar J.N. 19 90 and Sircar D.C1990 as cited in 10
[20.29] Nath D, 1989, History of Koch Kingdom, 1515-1615, Delhi, pp. 27-28).
[20.30] Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of guru Nanak, p.121
[20.31] Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, p. 49.
 

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dalvinder45

SPNer
Jul 22, 2023
588
36
79
MEETING SRIMANT SHANKAR DEV

At Dhubri, there used to be a huge hillock on the bank of Brahmaputra River. The Guru is said to have meditated here and held discussions with Srimanta Sankar Deb, an acknowledged religious leader of Assamese of the period. Gurudwara Damdama Sahib is reminiscent of Guru's visit to this place. Srimanta Sankar Deb's (1449-1569) name is a household word in Assam. He was born at Bardoa village of Nowgong and was brought up according to Hindu traditions. He came in contact with sages on a pilgrimage and his mental make-up got transformed for the search of the Ulitmate Truth. His life history and basic principles of thought process are very akin to Guru Nanak Dev Ji. Since Srimant Sankar Dev also was a Bhuyan, his presence in the area may be considered possible.

According to Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, “Guru Nanak met Sri Sankar Dev (1449-1569) at Dhubri, who had come from Barpeta. Both of them discussed the main points of their faith. Sankra Deva’s faith is known as Eksarna Dharma and his sect is called Mahapursa sect. Eksarna Dharma lays emphasis on dasya aspect of the devotion to God……He was greatly responsible for bringing peace and unity in the area by starting a religious movement of universal brotherhood through congregational prayer. Sankra Dev is said to have shaped the religious, social, cultural and literary life of the Province for the ages to come. [2]

Dr. Suniti Kumar Chatterji in his lecture on ‘The place of Assam in History and Civilization of India” says about the faith of Sankar Dev: “During the long life, there were six contemporaries of Sankradeva in the religious world of India-Chaitanya of Bengal (1485-1533), Vallabhacharya of Andhra and Vrajamandala (1479-1531), Kabir of Benaras (1398-1518), Nanak of the Punjab (1469-1539) and Tulsi Das of the United Provinces (1523-1623?). Sankar Dev’s Eka-sarnaDharma, or Mahapursha sect as it is also called (because its leaders beginning with Sankar Deb were great men (Mahapursa) by virtue not of birth but of faith in God, agreed more with the robust and manly path favoured by Kabir and Nanak and later by Tulsi Das: it was the path of a man’s straight-forward faith in the master, without his assuming the nature of a woman.” [3] Dr Arjan Singh Mann wrote: “Guru Nanak visited Saidiya and Malinithan”. [4] Dr Tarlochan Singh also accepts that Guru Nanak and Sankradeva met, but is unable to state where and when.[5]

This researcher has been in the area of Assam, Kamroop, North Bengal and Arunachal Pradesh from 1985 to1987 and carried out research on Guru Nanak’s travels to these areas. He visited Dhubri, Guwahati, Kamkhya temple, Hajo in Kamroop and number of places in Assam including Nazira near Sibsagar and Brahmkund (Parsu Ram Kund). He saw Sankar Dev’s followers visiting Gurdwaras in Assam on the occasion of birthday of Guru Nanak. When asked about the reason of their visit gurdwara, they told the researcher: “We come here to celebrate the birthday of our Guru Bhai. Guru Nanak was Guru Bhai of Sankar Deb.” This researcher has the recorded statements of the people from these areas who have been confirming that Guru Nanak visited Kamroop and Assam along with Shankar Deb. While visiting Nazira near Sibsagar, in a recorded interview with S. Harpal Singh and others stated that Nazira is so named because Guru Nanak and Srimanta Sankar Dev held discussions at the place. Hence the place was named as Nanak Zirah meaning discussions with Nanak. This Nanak Zirah was gradually modified as Nazira. In another recorded interview to the researcher Pandit Ram Saran Das, the head priest of Parsu Ram Kund Arunachal Pradesh told that “It is well known that Guru Nanak along with Srimant Sankar Dev came to Parsu Ram Kund on the fair of Makar Sankranti.” This researcher was also told of the Guru visiting Saidya and Malinithan while coming from Menchukha and Tuting Gelling along Siang River in Arunachal Pradesh (then a part of Assam).

The comparative study of philosophy of Guru Nanak and Srimant Sankar Dev was carried out. There appeared to be no difference between the philosophies of the two. This firms up the point that the two met for a considerable time where the philosophies of the two were discussed in detail and the meeting caused impact. From the life and philosophy of Srimanta Sankar Dev it is found that he lived the life of a house holder and stood for truth. He opposed all meaningless rituals and ceremonies of the time. He preached a simple faith. The cardinal power in his faith is chanting of the name of God. According to him, the worship of many gods and goddesses is unnecessary as the same Supreme Soul exists in all beings. There can be no two classes of touchable and untouchables. Devotion and not salvation is the aim of human life.[6] The salient points found in Srimanta Sankar Dev’s extensive writings, which have philosophical bearing are summarized in the book Mahapursha Srimanta Sankradeva by Dr Sanjib Kumar Barakakoti [7] as under:

1. Brahma is the Supreme Truth.

2. Brahma and Ishwara (God) are the same.

3. Brahma or Ishwara is there in everything.

4. Ishwar and His creations are not different.

5. Jives (creature) is a component of God. The former constitutes the body of the latter.

6. The creation is temporary, but not exactly unreal as it is projection of God; so it cannot be

ignored.

7. Maya (illusion) is an act of God and its influence can be avoided by the grace of God.

8. One becomes God as one realizes the identity of God and the five elements.

Guru Nanak’s life and philosophy are no different. There is a striking similarity in the teaching of the two. A comparative table of teachings of Shankar Dev and Guru Nanak’s philosophy is given below:

Sankar DevGuru Nanak
Brahma is Supreme Truth(a) God Himself is the Supreme Truth [20] (b) God was true in the beginning; He was true throughout the ages; He is true even now and true for ever shall He be [21] (c) True is the Lord: True is His Name. [22]
Brahma & Ishwar (God) are the same(a) Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh are His form; all are the Creation of God. [23] (b) Ishtar, Gorakh, Brahm and Parvarti are forms of the same God; the true Guide and He is no different from them. [24]
Brahma or Ishwar is there in every thing(a) He is in everyone in the form of soul. He pervades in all hearts.[25] (b) He is in everything in the form of Light [26](c) God’s Light is contained in all beings [27] (d) The One God pervades everywhere. He alone dwells in every soul [28] (e) All are contained in One Lord and the One Lord pervades all [29]
Iswara and His creations are not different.(a) The only One God dwells in all [30] (b)Whom should I call second, when there is none other than God? He the Immaculate One, alone pervades all [31]
Jivas (creature) is a component of God. The former constitutes the body of the latter.(a) Everyone is created out of Him. [32] (b) God Himself made the body and put soul into it.[33] (c) God abides within the body. He Himself is the Creator and Immortal. [34] (d) He Himself is the Creator and the Cause.[35]
The creation is temporary, but not exactly unreal as it is projection of God. So it cannot be ignored.(a) Whatever you see is transitory. [36] (b) God created the world with the process of transmigration. [37]
Maya (illusion) is an act of God and its influence can be avoided by the grace of God.(a) Illusion has covered the entire world. [38] (b) God has created emotional attachment to Maya; He Himself misleads us through illusion and doubt[39] (b) God is realized only through His Grace[40](c) By recognizing himself and by abiding therein man rids of ego and desire. [41] (d) He who is graced by God attains Him. [42]
One becomes God as one realizes the identity of God and the five elements.(a) He who realizes himself; identifies himself with the Supreme self. [42] (b) By recognizing the inner self one becomes attuned to the formless one.[43] He who realizes his self comes to know the fundamental elements.[44]
Dr Sanjib Kumar Borkakoti [45] in his paper Mahapurusha Srimanta Sankar Dev and Guru Nanak: A Comparative Study agrees that:

“Similarities in the ideologies of both the saints make us strongly feel that they met each other, even though the hagiographies of both the saints are silent on it. Such a meeting was certainly possible because Guru Nanak visited Assam in 1505. He went also to Sadiya and then up to Tanager in Arunachal Pradesh during that visit. A meeting between the two saints took place in this visit although it was not recorded in the hagiographies. Another earlier meeting was also possible during Srimanta Sankar Dev’s first pilgrimage in 1481-1493 when Guru Nanak was in the age period 12-24 years. The fact that the Sikh Guru entered seriously into the realm of spiritualism almost after this time is a significant fact. May be that was why Guru Nanak came here in 1505 to meet Srimanta Sankar Dev again. This needs further research. The Sikhs of Assam firmly believe that such a meeting actually took place. It is also believed that the two saints discussed the way to counter the Tantric cult, which had led to moral decay in the society. The place of the meeting is generally believed by them to be Damdama Sahib at Dhubri, which we do not find tenable as Srimanta Sankar Dev was staying at Bardowa at that time, busy with guiding his disciples, creating literary and cultural outputs, as well as managing the Bhuyan kingdom. He was also settling down with his second wife Kalindi, whom he had married two years ago in 1503. Moreover in the medieval period inter-kingdom journey was few and far between; in the case of a stalwart and erstwhile ruler (Shiromani Bhuyan) like Srimanta Sankaradeva every major movement was certain to be duly recorded, Dhubri and Bardowa coming under separate kingdoms in those times. So the place of the meeting between the two saints was certainly Bardowa”.[46]

The period of this meeting taken by Barakokti is 1505. During this period, Srimanta Sankar Dev had settled at Majuli near Dibrugarh-Sibsagar area and he had established good relations with Ahom Kings, with his son-in-law having been appointed in Ahom court. The indications received by this researcher during his travels to Assam are that the meeting place was either at the Ahom capital or near it. Girgaon, the earlier capital of Ahom Kings and the place claimed by the locals there to be the place of discussions of Guru Nanak and Srimanta Sankar Dev appears to be the reasonable claim. Srimant Sankar Dev and Guru Nanak would have travelled this part of Assam including Saidya and Parsu Ram Kund together for considerable exchange of thought. This theory and the new evidence thus need to be studied further.

These principles known to Assamese as Eksarana Dharma seemed to have been embedded in him during the discussions with Guru Nanak at Dhubri. The followers of Sri Sankar Deb known as Mahapursh sect till date consider Guru Nanak as 'Guru Bhai' of Sri Sankar Deb and attend religious functions in various Gurudwaras held in honour of Guru Nanak.

References

[1] Barua, Kanak Lal, 2005, An Early History of Kamarupa, From the Earliest Time to the Sixteenth Century, Guwahati: Lawyers Book Stall; Bhushan, Chandra, Assam: Its Heritage and Culture. Gyan Publishing House.ISBN 978-81-7835-352-4.

[2] Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, p. 46

[3] Suniti Kumar Chatterji, 1955, “The place of Assam in the history and Civilisation of India, BanikantaMemorial lectures, 1954, published by University of Gauhati, G. DS. Press Madras)

[4] Dr Arjan Singh Mann, 1959, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Assam Pradesh, Sikh Publishing House New Delhi, p.170.

[5] Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Travels of Guru Nanak, p.49

[6] Barua Kanak Lal, 2005, Early History of Kamrup, pp.1, 9, 11

[7] Sanjib Kumar Barakakoti, 2005, Mahapursha Srimanta Sankradeva, p.32

[8] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p. 1

[9] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1

[10] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.2

[11] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.908

[12] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.2

[13] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1273

[14] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.663

[15] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.469

[16] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.354

[17] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.90

[18] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.931

[19] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.223

[20] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.19

[21] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.138

[22] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1026

[23] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1190

[24] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.21

[25] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1283

[26] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1342

[27] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.67

[28] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.1393

[29] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.57

[30] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.468

[31] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.421

[32] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.415

[33] Sri Guru Granth Sahib, p.229

[34] Sanjib Kumar Barakakoti, Mahapurusha Srimanta Sankaradeva and Guru Nanak: A Comparative Study
 

dalvinder45

SPNer
Jul 22, 2023
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79
REDEEMING BHUMIA AND VISIT TO GUWAHATI

Visit to Kamakhya and Hajo temples:

Having redeemed Noor Shah Guru Nanak held discussions with Srimanta Sanker Dev at Dhubri and met Gaurjan. Guru Nanak’s next journey was to Kamakhaya Guwahati and Hajo in Kamroop. From Dhubri Guru Nanak proceeded towards Guwahati through Gauripore, Rangamati, Jogigompha, and Goalpara.[1]

During this journey Guru Nanak redeemed Bhumia. Janam Sakhi Bhai Bala has an anecdote of Bhumian.The episode is described in Janamsakhi B 40 [2] as under

‘Guru Nanak entered into the area which belonged to the thieves. A leader if thieves had 500 horses and many animals. All thieves were afraid of him. But he was very religious, donated freely and looked after the saints very well. He took Baba (Guru Nanak) to his house as he saw the Guru in his area and cared him with respect. Baba questioned: “What is your job?’ He said: “You know (that I am a thief). Please make me your follower.” Guru Nanak said, “You can become my follower only if you leave this evil.” Bhumia said, “You can ask anything else; even if you ask for my head or life I will offer you, but this evil is hereditary; it cannot be left. You must consider me as I have offered myself to you.” Baba accepted him his follower with three conditions: 1.Always speak truth even when you steel. 2. Never think ill of the person whose salt you have taken 3. See that innocent and poor are not tortured but helped. He accepted these. Baba started his journey further. Bhumia thought of a big plan i.e., looting the palace of the king so that he did not require to loot again and must follow strictly what the saint had said. He dressed himself well and wore five weapons on his body and started for king’s place on horse.

About midnight he reached king’s palace. As he entered the main gate he was challenged by the gatekeeper for his identity. He remembered what Guru Nanak had said i.e., to speak truth so he said, “I am thief.” In a bit harsh tone the sentry took him to be some royal person who speaks in such a manner. He did not stop him. He crossed all the seven gates by speaking truth. He collected all the valuables from king’s palace and tied into a huge bundle. Before leaving he thought of having some food. He entered the kitchen and tasted from a packet. It turned out to be salt. He had got so much faith in Baba’s saying that he left all valuables as he had taken salt from the king’s kitchen.

Next day as the king saw the packed valuables in his palace; he realized that a thief had entered. He was astonished as to why he had left all valuables. Sentries told why they allowed him in. The sentries in turn tortured all the suspected. As the news of the torture spread, he remembered Guru’s third instruction. See that the innocent and poor are not troubled. To save the innocent the Bhumia went to the king and told him what all had happened.

“How did you enter into the palace crossing seven gates?”

“By speaking the truth.my intention was not doubted.’

“Why did you leave all valuables packed?”

“I had taken your salt?”

“Why did you not you save yourself by remaining quite?”

“I could not bear the torture on the poor. I came to save the innocents.”

He repeated all three points the saint had asked him to follow.

“Who is this saint? I will like to meet him.”

The king honoured the Bhumia with lot of presents and made him his minister and requested him to help him meeting Baba.[2]

Bhumia or Bhuyans were the warrior chiefs and landlords (zamindars) in medieval Bengal and Assam. Srimanta Sankardeb was also a Bhuyan. [3] The Baro-Bhuyans are the twelve landlords who formed a confederacy [4] each Bhuyan in control of a group of villages called chakla; the more powerful among them called themselves as rajas. [5] Baro denotes number twelve and meant many (bado) [6]The system of Baro-Bhuyan confederacy is a relic of the erstwhile Kamroop Kingdom, that covered all of Assam, North Bengal and large portions of Bangladesh.[7] In presence of strong king they offered their allegiance to him [8] In Assam, the Baro-Bhuyans occupied the region west of the Kachari kingdom in the south bank of the Brahmputra river, and west of the Sutiya kingdom in the north bank. They were instrumental in defending against aggressors from Bengal, especially in defeating the remnant of Alauddin Husain Shah’s administration after 1498. They also resisted the emergence of the Koch dynasty but failed. Subsequently, they were squeezed between the Kachari kingdom and the Kamta kingdom in the south bank and were slowly overpowered by the expanding Ahom kingdom in the north. These landlords did not belong to any particular ethnicity, religion or caste.[9] A group of seven Kayastha and seven Brahmin families led by Chandivara was transferred to Langamaguri, a few miles north of present-day Guwahati.[10] Chandivara and his group did not stay in The king was eager to meet Baba. His wife happened to be the follower of the Baba. She too was eager Lengamaguri for long and moved soon to Bordowa in present-day Angoon district with the support of Durlabh Narayana.[10] Among the descendants of Chandivara was Srimanta Sankar Deb. [10]

King and queen meeting the saint: [11]

The Koch King and queen went to meet him. She loved singing Baba’s hymns and reciting God’s Name. Both of them went to Baba with the help of Bhumia. The king and queen requested for a blessing for a son. Sikh Chronicles mention the queen to be Gaurjan.

Gaurjan

Gyani Gian Singh in Twareekh Guru Khalsa, [12] states that Rani Gaurjan, queen of one of the states of Kamroop was the devout follower of Guru Nanak. Her grandson Raja Ram Rai became the Sikh of Guru Tegh Bahadur and he was blessed with a son by Guru’s blessings. The boy was named Ratan Rai. This Rattan Rai presented a white elephant and a Panchkala weapon; a combination of five weapons) to Guru Gobind Singh (Suraj Prakash 22, 46) Guru Kian Sakhian by Stoop Singh Koshers pp. 68-69 and 86-87[13] based on Bhatt Wahis recorded by the Bhatts in Guru’s court have also the record as above. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli mentions: it is said that the queen of this area (Pragjyotishapura) became the disciple of the Guru. She was the grandmother of Raja Ram Deo who became disciple of Guru Tegh Bahadur. Her great grandson Raja Rattan Deo came to Anandpur to pay his respects to Guru Gobind Singh. [14]

Guru Kian Sakhian [15] states further: Raja Ram Singh battled with Assamese for many years and Raja won the battle in the beginning of 1726 AD. Assamese King accepted defeat. Guru Tegh Bahadur got both parties to compromise. Raja Ram Singh created a mind on the bank of Brahmaputra in the honor of Guru Tegh Bahadur. Assam King Sug Deo requestedand took Guru to his residence. Both King and the Queen welcomed the Guru with love and respect. The queen requested the Guru politely: Please bless me with an offspring. I do not have any other wish.” Guru Jib said: “You will give birth to a very fortunate son.” He took his ring and touched on the queen’s head and said “Dear queen! You will find stamp of this ring on the head of your son. Name him Rattan Rai.” Guru took leave from King and Queen and returned to the camp of Raja Ram Singh.” [16]

“Guru (Guru Gobind Singh) issued orders to Sikhs to come to Paunta to celebrate Deepawali. Receiving Guru’s orders, the sangat came from Delhi, Assam, Majha, Malwa, Doaba, Pothohar, Kabul etc., with great vigour. From Assam came Ratan Rai son of Sug deo along with his mother and uncle Ram Rai bringing very valuable presents. Earlier when Rattan Rai was just eleven years, he came to Chak Nanaki along with his mother and father. At that time they had presented very valuable gifts. These included a weapon (Panch Kala) capable of performing five weapons i.e., spear, beam, sword, pistol and a barchhi changing from one weapon to other just by moving the handle. Another was a Parsadi Elephant which had a white lining from head to tail. It also included one sandalwood seat having four layers. In addition to this a golden bowl, the head Kalgi, a bracelet of diamonds and 101 gold Muhars and bowed before the Guru. [17] This Panchkala is presently stated to be in Baroda museum. [18] As stated above Guru Nanak visited Dhubri where a Gurdwara commemorates his visit. This Gurdwara was further sanctified by Guru Tegh Bahadur’s visit in 1710 AD to Dhubri where he brought a settlement between Raja Ram Singh a General of Mughals and King Chakardhawaj Singh of Assam. [19]

Guru Nanak’s next visit was to Guwahati’s Kamakhya temple.Dr. Tarlochan Singh [20] and Dr Surinder Singh Kohli [21] agree that Guru Nanak visited Kamakhya in Guwahati and Hajo. Arjan Singh Mann writes: “After Dhubri, Guru Nanak visited Gauripore, Rangamati, Jogigompha, Goalpara reached Kamakhya (Guwahati) where he stayed with the high priest for some time and left his message with him.”[22]

At Kamakhaya the famous temple of Guwahati, he stayed with 'Punjabi Panda' and held discussions with various pandits including the head priest. According to Punjabi Panda,Old Wahis of Punjabi Panda had a mention about Guru's visit but were destroyed in a fire at his house. Now records are available only from nineteenth century onwards.[23]

Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur mentions: ‘In Kamroop he told the priests: “It is ignorance and non acceptance of God’s natural laws to sacrifice animals in front of idols to appease gods.” He sermonized: The god of mammon attracts all gods and goddesses. The death however does not excuse anyone except those in the permanent service of The Lord.” (Gauri M.1)[24]

He further sermonized: “If you worship the gods and goddesses, what will you ask from them and what will they give?” Having listened to these sermons the ignorance of the priests was gone and they became the worshippers of The Lord God (p.70) [25]. In his notes he explains that the Kamkhya temple is in Guwahati. The same approach has been taken by Dr Tarlochan Singh [26].

From Hajo and Matsayadhwaj Guru Nanak proceeded to Tashigonzong (Bhutan) on his way to Lhasa (Tibet). On return from Tibet, through Arunanchal Pradesh he proceeded to Saidya and attended the fair at Brahma Kund. After religious discussions at Brahmankud, the Guru proceeded to Walong and held discussions with the Lama there. There form he returned to Assam and visited Tinsukhia, Dibrugarh and Nazira.[27]

According to Dr Kohli Guru Nanak is said to have visited both the temples at Guwahati and Hajo. The purpose of the visit of Guru Nanak in this area was to dissuade the people from Shakti practices and put them on right path i.e., the devotion towards all pervading Brahman (p. 49) [28].

Route of Travel to Kamrup

The route of travels to Kamrup given by Fauja Singh Kirpal Singh [29] from Banaras onwards is as under:

“Benaras-Chandrola-Sasarasm-Gaya-Patna-Hajipur-Mungher-Bhagalpur-Kantnagar-Malda from where he would have selected one out of the following: (a) Sher Shah Suri Marg leading to Sunargaon via Maqsudabad and reached Dacca (b) He travelled north passing through the present North Bihar and North Bengal reaching Dhubri the first important place in Kamrup visited by Guru Nanak. At Dhubri Guru Tegh Bahadur raised a platform in the hallowed memory of Guru Nanak’s visit. As this place is situated on the right bank of the Brahmputra River, the likelihood is that Guru arrived there from the west and not from the side of Dacca. Secondly, for a traveller desiring to tour the region of Assam, as the Guru was, the Dacca route was much longer, circuitous and perhaps also unnatural. Thirdly the northerly route is marked by many old historical gurdwara bearing association with Guru Nanak and Guru Tegh Bahadur. Fourthly, when later on Guru Tegh Bahadur preceded to Assam he, too, followed the northerly route.” [29]

Janam Sakhi B-40 edited by Piar Singh, 1989 [30] narrates the story of Guru Nanak’s visit to Bhutan, “Sakhi Bhutant Des ki” at p. 124. Since Bhutan is touching the borders of North Bengal Cooch Behar and Kamrup, it is probable that Guru Nanak also visited Bhutan during his visit to Kamrup. Thus the route through north passing through the present North Bihar and North Bengal reaching Dhubri in Kamrup is the most probable route and he visited Bhutan during this route only. Dr Surinder Singh Kohli gives this probable route to be during his third journey when the Guru was travelling in Sikkim and Bhutan and he toured through some territory of North Bengal in Darjeeling, Jalpaiguri and Cooch Behar District.[31]

This author in his book Amazing Travels of Guru Nanak [32] found the travel to Kamroop and beyond during Guru Nanak’s third itinerary (udasi) and the route to Kamroop from Sikkim and Bhutan as the most plausible.[33] However after visiting the area again came to the conclusion that Guru Nanak's travels to this region were after visiting Dacca by boat in Brahmputra and proceeded on foot to Guwahati walking through Gauripur, Rangamati, Jogigompha, Goalpara reaching Kamakhaya.[22]

Period of the Travel

Guru Nanak (1469-1539), the founder of Sikhism visited Kamrup in the beginning of 16th Century.In the Janamsakhi edited by Shamsher Singh Ashok [33] the period of visit to Kamroop given is after the first and second itineraries (udasis) in the year 1508 AD. “Baba then started for other pilgrimage centres. He visited 68 pilgrimage centres like Ganga, Godawri, Gaya, Pirag, Gomti, Ayodhya, Dwarka, Jagan Nath, and Orissa and had the benefit of all these pilgrimages including bathing in various rivers. Having visited the entire land, the true Guru Baba reached that part of the land on the corneer of the sea where no men exist and the women rule. In the entire country only the women earn and not the men. [32] If the period of start is taken as 1500AD from sultanpur Lodhi, his arrival in Kamroop comes out to be 1504-1505 AD. Dr Sanjib Kumar Barakokti’s[34] timings thus can be taken as correct

References:

[1] Arjan Singh Mann, Dr., 1959, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Assam Pradesh, Sikh Publishing House New Delhi, p.170.

[2] Piar Singh (ed) B40 Janamsakhi, ‘Sakhi Bhumie Chor nal hoee’, Amritsar,Guru Nanak Dev University, pp. 143-144

[3] Ibid pp. 145-146

[4] Guha, Amalendu (1983). "The Ahom Political System: An Enquiry into the State Formation Process in Medieval Assam". Social Scientist (Social Scientist) 11 (12): 3–34. doi:10.2307/3516963. JSTOR 3516963.Guha 1983, p. 10

[5] Akbarnama, Volume III, Page 647.

[6] Neog, M (1980), Early History of the Vaisnava Faith and Movement in Assam, Delhi: Motilal Banarasidass Neog 1980, p. 48, Nath, D (1989), History of the Koch Kingdom: 1515-1615, Delhi: Mittal Publications

[7] Neog, M (1992), "Origin of the Baro-Bhuyans", in Barpujari, H. K., The Comprehensive History of Assam2, Guwahati: Assam Publication Board, pp. 62–66, Neog 1980:49f

[8] Lahiri, Nayanjot (1984). "The Pre-Ahom Roots of Medieval Assam".Social Scientist (Social Scientist) 12 (6): 60–69. JSTOR 3517004.Lahiri 1984, p. 62

[9] Neog 1980, p. 49

[10] Nath, D, 1989, History of the Koch Kingdom: 1515-1615, Delhi: Mittal Publications, p.21

[11] Piar Singh (ed) B40 Janamsakhi, Sakhi Bhumie Chor nal hoee, Amritsar,Guru Nanak Dev University, pp. 145-146

[12] Gyani Gyan Singh’s, Twareekh Guru Khalsa, p. 87

[13] Sarup Singh Koshish edited by Piara Singh Padam and Gyani Garja Singh, 1986, Guru Kian Sakhian by Kalam Mandir, Patiala, pp. 68-69 & 86-87

[14] Surinder Singh Kohli, 1997, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University, Chandigarh, Third edition,

[15] Sarup Singh Koshish 1986,, pp. 68-69 & 86-87

[16]Ibid pp. 68-69

[17] Ibid pp. 86-87

[18] Tarlochan Singh, Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak, p.174

[19] Akhbar (i) Darbar(i) Muala, quoted in Guru Tegh Bahadur ji dian yatravan by Sabinderjit Singh Sagar in Nau Nidh edited by Pritam Siongh, Guru Nanak Dev University Sri Amritsar, p.67

[20] Tarlochan Singh, Dr, Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak, p.174

[21] Surinder Singh Kohli (Dr), p.47

[22] Arjan Singh Mann (Dr), p.170

[23] Dalvinder Singh Grewal, Dr. May, 2002, Amazing Travels of Guru Nanak, Amritsar, Shiromani Parbandhak Committee pp. 211-213

[24] Gyani Lal Singh Sangrur, p 70

[25] ibid

[26] Tarlochan Singh, Dr., Jeevan Charit Guru Nanak, p.174

[27] Dalvinder Singh Grewal Dr, 2002, p.212

[28] Surinder Singh Kohli, 1997, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University, Chandigarh, Third edition, p.49

[29] Fauja Singh Kirpal Singh, 1976, Atlas Tavels of Guru Nanak, Punjabi University Patiala, pp. 17

[30] Piar Singh, 1989, B-40 Janamsakhi Sri Guru Nanak Dev Ji, Guru Nanak Dev University, Sri Amritsar, p.124

[31] Surinder Singh Kohli, 1997, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University, Chandigarh, Third edition, p.44, 46-47

[32] Dalvinder Singh Grewal, Dr. May, 2002, pp. 211-213

[33] Shamsher Singh Ashok (ed.) 1969, Puratan Janamsakhi, Shiromani Gurdwara Committee, Amritsar, p. 200 quotes 1508 AD as the year of visit of Guru Nanak to Kachhar then a part of Kamrup.





 
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dalvinder45

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Jul 22, 2023
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GURU NANAK IN ASSAM

The important areas of Kamroop visited by Guru Nanak mentioned in Janamsakhi following his visit to Kamroop are Assa Des, Dhanasari and Bisiar Des. There are no such states by the name Karoo or Kavroo Des, Assa Des and Dhanasari Des or Bisiar Des in India. Bhai Santokh Singh, Giani Gyan Singh, Giani Lal Singh Sangrur, Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr Tarlochan Singh, Dr Fauja Singh Kirpal Singh; Dr Arjan Singh Mann, Dr Dalvinder Singh Grewal and a host of other writers mention these areas as Kamroop Desh, Assam Desh and Dhanasari Valley in Assam. Bisiar Desh has been interpreted as the Sylhet of present Bangla Desh.​

After visiting Kamroop areas of Dhubri, Gwahati, Hajo and Khasi and Jaintia Hills, Guru Nanak visited further east to the kingdom of Ahom Kings. On the eve of the movement of the Ahoms to Assam in the early thirteenth century, any semblance of a centralized kingship in the region had collapsed into a fragmented system of tribal polities and loose confederacies of petty Hindu rajas, called Bhuyans. The Ahom, a Shan tribe from which the name Assam is probably derived, crossed the Patkoi Mountains from Burma in 1228 AD and by the sixteenth century had absorbed the Chutiya and Kachari kingdoms of the upper Brahmaputra, subdued the neighboring hill tribes and integrated the Bhuyans into the administrative apparatus of a feudalistic state.[1]

During the latter half of the sixteenth century, Srimanta Shankara Deva, inspired a popular Vaishnavite movement that sought to reform the esoteric practices of Tantric Hinduism and to limit the prerogatives of the brahmanas attached to the Ahom court. The Ahom came to sponsor an extensive network of Vaishnavite monasteries, whose monks played an important role in the reclamation of wastelands for wet-rice cultivation throughout the Brahmaputra Valley. Because of the repudiation of caste privilege, Shankara Deva's Vaishnavism appealed to the broad tribal base on which the Ahom had erected their state.[2]

For the present study, all these states have been considered as one except Arunachal Pradesh which has been dealt separately.

Assam, earlier known as Kamrup, was considered less developed and less civilised. Magic and idol worship prevailed and the gods and spirits were dreaded and worshipped to the scale that even Chinese traveller Hieuntsang, who visited Assam in 640 A.D., wrote about this country. 'The country of Kamarupa is about 10,000 Li (nearly 1800 miles) in circuit. The capital town is 5 miles round. The land lies low but is rich and regularly cultivated. The climate is soft and temperate. The men are of small stature and their complexion dark yellow. Their language differs a little from that of mid-India. Their nature is very impetuous and wild, their memories are retentive and they are earnest in study’.

Today Karmrup is the name of a district only and the old Karmrup Kingdom has come to be known as Assam. Before Bhaskar Varman, the dynsty of Narkasur and BhagyaDutt remained supreme for long. According to Mahabharat, king of Pragjyotishwar (the present Gwahati) led his army to the battle of Kurukshetra. For several centuries the Koch, the Ahoms and Chutias contested for Assam, but in the early part of the 13th century the Ahoms from Burma and Chinese frontiers poured into Assam, founded a kingdom and held it for several centuries. The Ahoms were in the process of establishment and routing out the local Hindu Kings during the period of Guru Nanak's visit to Assam. The ferocious Ahoms had unleashed a reign of terror and practiced all savagery on the local population to subdue them. Guru's entry into Assam at that period was quite solacing. He visited all these states and encouraged the people to stand against the tyranny and oppression and to be united by shedding away the meaningless ritualism and caste distinctions.[3]The episodes (Sakhis) narrated below are taken from Puratan Janamsakhi edited by Bhai Vir Singh.[4] In this Janamsakhi Guru Nanak is often mentioned as Baba, Guru, Guru Baba or Baba Nanak.

Guru Nanak then entered Assa Des. Sheikh Farid welcomed saying, “Alahoo, Alla o Saint!’ Baba replied, “Alah, Farid Zuhdi, Always Welcome Farid Zuhdi, Alah Alah.” They shook hands and sat down. Shekh Farid saw Baba, held discussions and asked Baba, “On one side you need world and on the other you desire God. Do not keep feet on two boats, lest you are drowned.” Guru Nanak replied, “Keep your feet on both the boats. One may get drowned but another may get you across. In actuality, there are neither boats nor water in which get drowned. You must trade in wealth of truth; you will get into Him naturally.’ Sheikh Farid said, “You cover your arms with red bangles. The world is falsehood. The field gets destroyed in front of your eyes.” Guru Baba replied, “The love with the red bangles has been from the very inception. The field does not get destroyed if the caretaker is careful.” Shiekh Farid spoke, “Body remained but the mind is split leaving powerless. O my dear! get up and apply effective medicine.” Guru Baba said, “The true recognition of the friend is of limited speech. Why split your mind to millions to find Him; He is within you.” (p.1100)

Shiekh Farid sang in Rag Soohi, “You were not able to make yourself a raft when you should have. When the ocean is churning and over-flowing, then it is very difficult to cross over it. Do not touch the sun flower with your hands; its color will fade away, my dear. First, the bride herself is weak, and then, her Husband Lord’s Order is hard to bear. Milk does not return to the breast; it will not be collected again. Says Fareed, O my companions, when our Husband Lord calls, the soul departs, sad at heart, and this body returns to dust”. (p.794)

Guru Nanak replied: “Build the raft of meditation and self-discipline, to carry you across the river. There will be no ocean, and no rising tides to stop you; this is how comfortable your path shall be. God’s Name alone is the colour, in which the robe of my body is dyed. This color is permanent. My beloved friends have departed; how will they meet the Lord? If they have virtue in their pack, the Lord will unite them with Himself. Once united with Him, they will not be separated again, provided they are truly united. The True Lord brings their comings and goings to an end. One who subdues and eradicates egotism, sews the robe of devotion. Following the Word of the Guru’s Teachings, she receives the fruits of her reward, the Ambrosial Words of the Lord. Our Husband Lord is so dear! We are the servants, the hand-maidens of the Lord; He is our True Lord and Master”. (p.729)

Shiekh Farid spoke, “They alone are true whose love for God is deep and heart-felt. Those who have one thing in their heart, and something else in their mouth, are judged to be false. Those who are imbued with love for the Lord, are delighted by His Vision. Those who forget the Naam, the Name of the Lord, are a burden on the earth. Those whom the Lord attaches to the hem of His robe, are the true dervishes at His Door. Blessed are the mothers who gave birth to them; and fruitful is their coming into the world. O Lord, Sustainer and Cherisher, You are infinite, unfathomable and endless. Those who recognize the True Lord — I kiss their feet. I seek Your Protection- You are the Forgiving Lord. Please, bless Sheikh Farid with the bounty of Your meditative worship”.(488)

Guru Nanak said, “When I have the Lord then I have everything. O my Lord and Master, You are my wealth and capital. Within You, I abide in peace; within You, I am congratulated. By the Pleasure of Your Will, You bestow thrones and greatness. And by the Pleasure of Your Will, You make us beggars and wanderers. By the Pleasure of Your Will, the ocean flows in the desert, and the lotus blossoms in the sky. By the Pleasure of Your Will one crosses over the terrifying world-ocean; by the Pleasure of Your Will, he sinks down into it. By the Pleasure of His Will, that Lord becomes my Husband and I am imbued with the Praises of the Lord, the treasure of virtue. By the Pleasure of Your Will, O my Husband Lord, I am afraid of You and I come and go and die. You, O my Husband Lord, are inaccessible and immeasurable; talking and speaking of You, I have fallen at Your Feet. What should I beg for? What should I say and hear? I am hungry and thirsty for the Blessed Vision of Your Darshan. Through the Word of the Guru’s Teachings, I have found my Husband Lord. This is Nanak’s true prayer”. (p.762)

Baba and Sheikh Farid stayed together in jungle for a night. A man of God turned up. He saw them and went back. In the last leg of night, he brought a vessel full of milk with four mohars in it. Sheikh Farid got his share of milk separated and kept Guru’s share separate. Sheikh Farid said,” It brought fruit in the first part of the night and gave the fruit at night only. Whosoever is awake get the God’s gift.” (p.1384) Baba replied, “The gifts of God do not go with a man. Some do not enjoy while awake while others are woken up to enjoy.” (p.83)

Baba further said, ‘Sheikh Farid. Move your hand into my share of milk and see.” Farid checked and found four Mohars in it. The person who had brought the milk left on seeing this. Guru Nanak sang in rag Tukhari,

“In the first watch of the dark night, O bride of splendored eyes, protect your riches; your turn is coming soon. When your turn comes, who will wake you? While you sleep, your juice shall be sucked out by the Messenger of Death. The night is so dark; what will become of your honor? The thieves will break into your home and rob you. O Saviour Lord, Inaccessible and Infinite, please hear my prayer. O Nanak, the fool never remembers Him; what can he see in the dark of night? The second watch has begun; wake up, you unconscious being! Protect your riches, O mortal; your farm is being eaten. Protect your crops, and love the Lord, the Guru. Stay awake and aware, and the thieves shall not rob you. You shall not have to go on the path of Death, and you shall not suffer in pain; your fear and terror of death shall run away. The lamps of the sun and the moon are lit by the Guru’s Teachings, through His Door, meditating on the True Lord, in the mind and with the mouth. O Nanak, the fool still does not remember the Lord. How can he find peace in duality? The third watch has begun, and sleep has set in. The mortal suffers in pain, from attachment to Maya, children and spouse. Maya, his children, his wife and the world are so dear to him; he bites the bait, and is caught. Meditating on the Naam, the Name of the Lord, he shall find peace; following the Guru’s Teachings, he shall not be seized by death. He cannot escape from birth, dying and death; without the Name, he suffers. O Nanak, in the third watch of the three-phased Maya, the world is engrossed in attachment to Maya. The fourth watch has begun, and the day is about to dawn. Those who remain awake and aware, night and day, preserve and protect their homes. The night is pleasant and peaceful, for those who remain awake; following the Guru’s advice, they focus on the Naam. Those who practice the Word of the Guru’s Shabad are not reincarnated again; the Lord God is their Best Friend. The hands shake, the feet and body totter, the vision goes dark, and the body turns to dust. O Nanak, people are miserable throughout the four ages, if the Name of the Lord does not abide in the mind. The knot has been untied; rise up — the order has come! Pleasures and comforts are gone; like a prisoner, you are driven on. You shall be bound and gagged, when it pleases God; you will not see or hear it coming. Everyone will have their turn; the crop ripens, and then it is cut down. The account is kept for every second, every instant; the soul suffers for the bad and the good. O Nanak, the angelic beings are united with the Word of the Shabad; this is the way God made it. (p.1110)

Baba and Sheikh moved from the place. As the man who had brought milk returned he found his vessel. When he picked it up he found the vessel to be of gold and filled with muhars. He repented and said, “They were worldly saints. If it would have come to my mind I would have got true faith. I brought the world and got the world.” he took away the vessel and went home.

From there Guru Baba and Sheikh Farid came to Assa Des. The king of Assa Des was Samunder who had died.(Janam Sakhi Bhai Bala edited by Dr Surinder Singh Kohli, has the same story but the name of King of Assa des as Siam Sunder .(p.150) His scalp was not getting burnt even after lot of effort. The astrologers were then asked the way out. Asttrologers said, “He stated falsehood only once due to which his life is in trouble. People of Assa Des are truthful; they cut at night what they sow during day.” The public of Assa Des started crying. The astrologers said, ‘He can only be redeemed if some saints foot touches him.”

They closed all the routes to Assa Des, keeping only one route in. Only a saint was to be allowed to enter into. When they went near, Guru Nanak said, “Sheikh Farid, put your foot in.” Shiekh Farid said, “I do not dare to put my foot before you.” Baba kept the foot in; the scalp broke and the king was redeemed, The entire country fell at Guru’s feet. Baba sang a hymn in Rag Maru:

The union of the mother and father brings the body into being. The Creator inscribes upon it the inscription of its destiny. According to this inscription, gifts, light and glorious greatness are received. Joining with Maya, the spiritual consciousness is lost. O foolish mind, why are you so proud? You shall have to arise and depart when it pleases your Lord and Master. Abandon the tastes of the world, and find intuitive peace. All must abandon their worldly homes; no one remains here forever. Eat some, and save the rest, if you are destined to return to the world again. He adorns his body and dresses in silk robes. He issues all sorts of commands. Preparing his comfortable bed, he sleeps. When he falls into the hands of the Messenger of Death, what good does it do to cry out? Household affairs are whirlpools of entanglements, O Siblings of Destiny. Sin is a stone which does not float. So let the Fear of God be the boat to carry your soul across. Says Nanak: rare are those who are blessed with this Boat.(p.989-990)

The public brought bread. When they gave it to Sheikh Farid he said, “I have eaten and has some along with me as well.” The people of Assa Des said, “Which country are you the liar from. Are You from the country of Farid where he had the bread of wood? If someone gives you bread, you say I have eaten as well have some with you as well.” Sheikh Farid threw his wooden bread and said, “When the king had such a great punishment for only one lie, what will happen to me?” Baba was pleased. Disposing him off Baba said, “You have God in you but you need to have a Peer.” Sheikh Farid said, “You have said well.” Sheikh Farid and Baba took each other in arms. Baba sang a hymn in Sri Rag.

Come, my dear sisters and spiritual companions; hug me close in your embrace. Let’s join together, and tell stories of our All-powerful Husband Lord. All Virtues are in our True Lord and Master; we are utterly without virtue. O Creator Lord, all are in Your Power. I dwell upon the One Word of the Shabad. You are mine—what else do I need? Go, and ask the happy soul-brides, “By what virtuous qualities do you enjoy your Husband Lord?” “We are adorned with intuitive ease, contentment and sweet words. We meet with our Beloved, the Source of Joy, when we listen to the Word of the Guru’s Shabad.” You have so many Creative Powers, Lord; Your Bountiful Blessings are so Great. So many of Your beings and creatures praise You day and night. You have so many forms and colors, so many classes, high and low. Meeting the True One, Truth wells up. The truthful are absorbed into the True Lord. Intuitive understanding is obtained and one is welcomed with honor, through the Guru’s Word, filled with the Fear of God. O Nanak, the True King absorbs us into Himself. (p.17)

Guru Nanak stayed in Assa Des for some days. All the people in Assa Des recited ‘Guru, Guru.’ and became followers (of Guru Nanak). There is a seat in Assa Des. Baba blessed Assa Des with pleasure.”

Samundra or Siam Sunder:

Bhuyan chieftains claimed themselves to be the followers of Samuder. In Assam. the Baro-Bhuyans occupied the region west of the Kachar kingdom in the south bank of the Brahmaputra river and west of the Sutiya kingdom in the north bank. They were instrumental in defending against aggressors from Bengal, especially in defeating the remnant of Allauddin Hussain Shah's administration after 1498. They joined the Ahom king Suhungmung’s (King of Assam during Guru Nanak’s travels) expeditions against the Sutiya and the Kachari kingdoms. Pleased with their help, the Baro-Bhuyans were established as tributary feudal landlords in the north bank of Brahmaputra. In due course, members of these Bhuyans became powerful. Allauddin Hussain Shah, who ended the Khen dynasty by displacing Nilambar in 1498, extended his rule up to the Barnadi river by defeating Harup Narayan who was a descendant of Gandharva-raya, a Bhuyan from the second group established by Durlabh Narayana at Bausi (Chota raja of Bausi), among others.[5]The Baro-Bhuyans retaliated and were instrumental in ending the rule of Alauddin Hussain Shah via his son Danial. But very soon, the rise of Viswa Singha of the Koch Dynasty in Kamata destroyed their hold in Kamrup[6] and squeezed those in the Nagaon region against the Kacharis to their east. There is a mention of Samundra being the elder of Bhuyan Chief. Srimant Sankar Dev was also one of the Bhuyan Chiefs. The system of Baro-Bhuyan confederacy is a relic of the erstwhile Kamroopa Kingdom. In Bengal as in Assam, the Baro-Bhuyans are found in regions within the traditional boundaries of the Kamarupa kingdom.

Most of the researchers do not relate this episode to Assam since (a) Sheikh Farid was not alive then (b) Muslims had not entered Assam at that time hence no Muslim saint would have visited Assam.(c) There was no king by the name Samundra or Siam Sunder as mentioned in Janam Sakhis. The episode of Sheikh Farid cannot be related to Baba Farid since he belonged to 11th century. However his followers also claimed themselves the name of Shiekh Farid and it may be one such follower who met Guru Nanak[6] Since Muslims had already created their influence in the area after the invasion of western Assam by Allauddin Hussein of Gaur up to Barnadi river in 1498 is recorded in coins from the early sixteenth century, declaring Hussein as the conqueror of Kamru.[7]It showed that Islamic influence existed in the region before Guru Nanak’s visit and Sufi saints might have visited during the period. As was traditional in 15-16th century all the persons in seat after their religious leaders were later called by the names of their leaders e.g., Guru Nanak’s followers were called Nanak 1 , 2 or 3 and so on or Mahila 1, 2 or 3 and so on. Similarly followers of Sheikh Farid were also called as such. It is probable that a follower of Sheikh Farid might have visited Assam as did Guru Nanak and exchanged his philosophy. The Shloks of Baba Farid might have been used in discourses hence are being quoted as such.Dr Surinder Singh Kohli while commenting in Janam Sakhi Bhai Bala mentions: “Shiekh Braham, in the lineage of Pir Shiekh Farid of Pattan” (Patan de Pir Sheikh Farid di aulad Sheikh Braham wala Raja)[8] who is mentioned as Sheikh Farid here. Similarly successors of Samudra too might have been called as such.

Places in Assam connected to Guru Nanak’s visit

Gyani Gian Singh writes: From there (Guwahati) proceeded to Ajmeri Ganj, Karim Ganj, Syllehet etc., and reached Ghargaon near Dibrugarh; the then capital of Assam and was named as Nazira later. Having diverted Sagar Sain and others from worship of Kamakhya Devi to the Divine Name went to Bishambar Des which is situated between Brahmputra and Barni rivers. [9]According to Dr Arjan Singh Mann [10] Guru Nanak visited all the towns of lower and Upper Assam and reached Saidya from where Sri Krishanji married Rukmani (Bhishmak Nagar or Malinithan now in Arunachal Pradesh). Then he went to Parsu Ram Kund where Saint Pursu Ram after taking bath regained his sainthood after having killed leading Kshtriyas of the land with his axe. Then he trevelled through Tibet, China, Japan, Java, Sumatra, Phillipines and Manipore state through Burma. He entered India at imphal, Bishanpore, Cachar, Sylhet and Lushia Hills.[11]

Dr Surinder Singh Kohli [12] writes, “When he returned from the foreign lands in 1509, he is said to have visited Imphal, Karimganj, Sylhet (at that time in Assam, Lushai Hills, Agartala (Tripura). It was in Cachar District that the Guru met the Buddhist ruler Devloot who wanted to kill him but ultimatrely became his disciple. From Tripura, the Guru entered Chittagong district of Bangla Desh.”[12] Dr Kohli also mentions that Guru Nanak also visited Brahmpur and Suvarnpur (Sonapur) in Nowgong district. [13]

Dr Tarlochan Singh relates Sonar Gaon to Swarngram of Janamsakhi (p.164). He quotes from Giani Thakur Singh’s book ‘Gurdwara Darshan, p.33 stating that Devi Parsad Bose a Bengali became Guru Nanak’s follower at Sylhet.The place commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit is one and a kilometer from the city. He relates the event of meeting Jhanda Baddhi, Inder Sain and Sudher Sain to Chittagong Sondeep and Burma. He mentions thatr Chitta Ghatika in Janamsakhi as Chittagong; Sondeep as Swarpur and Brahmdeep as Burma.[14] Dr Tarlochan Singh states Bisiar Des to be the present Nagaland since Bisiar means ‘Nag’ a deadly snake. He also considers Dhansari desh to be the part of present Nanga land and the place where the episode of Kauda cannibal occurred was Dimapur in Naga Land. It was ruled by Cacharis during the period of Guru Nanak’s travels but later captured by Ahom King Suhangmang (1497-1539) who assumed a Hindu Name Swarg Narayan to win over the Hindu population.” [15]

Dr Dalvinder Singh Grewal writes, “Having visited Dhubri, Gwahati, Hajo and Matsyadhwaj in Assam, Guru Nanak proceeded to Tashigongdzong and Dukti (Bhutan) on his way to Lhasa. He entered Arunachal Pradesh and visited Sela and Sabrela and crossed a hill now known as Govindgarh. …… From Menchukha he travelled through Tuting-Gelling and Passighat and reached Saidya and Parsu Ram Kund. From Parsu Ram Kund[16] through Dibrugarh he reached Dhanasri Valley at Golaghat where a Gurdwara commemorates Guru Nanak’s visit. He entered Nagaland and in Dimapur area he came across Kauda cannibal. From Nagaland, Guru Nanak visited Imphal, Silchar, Brahmpur, Sonpur, Bishanpur, Ajmeriganj, Karimganj and Ghorgaon en-route to Sylhet.[17] From Silchar, Guru Nanak went to Chittagong en route to East Asian countries [18].

The episode of ‘Remain Settled’ (Vasde Raho) and ‘Be Uprooted’ (Ujad Jao) have been related to Kanganpur and Bhila or Manak Deke in Lahore district by Major Gurmukh Singh [19], Tara Singh Narotam in Sri Gur Tirath Sangreh ; Kahn Singh Nabha [20] Giani Gian Singh, 2002 (reprint), Gurdham Sangreh, Dharam Parchar Mahankosh,[21] Giani Gurdit Singh (edited), May 2005, Gurdham Didar, Dharam Parchar Committee, Sri Amritsar.[22] In Puratan Janamsakhi edited by Shamsher Singh Ashok [23] this anecdote is listed after Guru’s visit to Wanjarian Da Tandaand not as listed by Bhai Vir Singh. Both Bhila and Manak Deke do not appear either in Committes list of Sikh Gurdwaras left in Pakistan .Hence these episodes cannot be related to Kamroop or Assam without sufficient proof and further research is needed.

During this researchers stay in Assam and Arunachal from 1985 to 1987 and later visits from 1987-1992, he visited most of Assam & its adjoining states and found lot of evidence of Guru Nanak's travels to the state. This was further supplemented by his visit in November 2014 where he specifically visited areas in Assam relating to Guru Nanak’s visit

As per the details given above, having visited Kamroop, Guru Nanak came to the capital of Ahom kingdom at Gargaon-Nazira. His visit to Assa Des mentioned in Janamsakhis can be related to Assam. During the British rule, tea plantations were started in and around Nazira like the other parts of upper Assam. Nazira was the headquarters of famous Assam Tea Company. [24]
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Sibsagar and Nazira areas

Nazira is a town and a municipal board in Sivsagar district in the Indian state of Assam. It is located at 26.920N 94.730 E. It has an average elevation of 132 meters (433 feet). It is a historical town on the bank of River Dikhow in Sivasagar district in Assam. It is around 18 km from Sivasagar city, 3 km from Simaluguri Jn. and 78 km from Jorhat Airport. It is Sub-divisional Head Office of Nazira Sub-division. The HQ of ONGC, Assam Asset, a Maharatna E&P company is situated in Nazira. Nazira is surrounded by huge tea estates. The historian Sarbananda Rajkumar states that 'Nazira' is a Tai (Ahom) word: Na means Land, Zi-Inclined & Ra-Much. So, Nazira means a much inclined land.[25] However Sardar Harpal Singh in his interview mentions that it was originally Nanak zirah meaning Guru Nanak held discussions with Srimanata Sankar Dev and the King Suhungmung (1497–1539) also known as Dahingia Raja at the place. Nazira was an important place during the regime of Ahom Kingdom. Nearby Gargaon was the capital of Ahom Kingdom over a long period. [26] He also writes that once the important places of Nazira were Ganak Village and Nazirahat. Being in the vicinity of the Dikhow river and boats used to rest in this place after their long journey through the river. The Kareng Ghar a palace from the Medieval period build by King Rajeshwar Singha, a ruler of the Ahom kingdom stands as a testimony of the bygone era.[27] As of 2001 India census, [28] Nazira had a population of 12,466. Nazira is mainly inhabited by Ahoms followed by the Assamese Muslims, Brahmins, Koch, Kalitas, Deories and Kaibarta constitute the rest of the portion of the demographic chart. Besides Nazira also has a sizeable population from the tea tribes community, who were brought as labours from central India by British for Tea plantations. It has a humid subtropical monsoon climate like the rest of Assam. It has a long rainy season starting with pre-monsoon showers in the months of April, which signals the onset of spring. The real deluge starts in June, which continues up to the month of September.

The burial place of Loonia Siddh at the bank of river Dikhow points to the place of Guru Nanak’s visit and having discussions with Srimanta Sankar Dev since the Guru’s followers maintained the place of Guru’s visit where ever the Guru went and Nazira was such a place of Guru’s visit. there is no Dharamsal or Gurdwara in the memory of Guru’s visit to the place, though its remains are visible.

At Nazira he met the Guru held discussions with Srimanta Sankar Dev and King Suhungmung, who became Guru's disciple. Guru Nanak visited neighbouring villages and preached True Lord's Name to them.
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S. Harpal Singh Nazira

S Harpal Singh told us that Nazira is the name changed from its earlier name Nanak Zirah which means zirah or discussion with Guru Nanak. This discussion had taken place at the temple site on the bank of Dikhow River opposite Gaushala. Guru Nanak also met the king who followed his teachings thereafter. The team was taken to a temple on the banks of Dikhow River. The temple complex appeared to be a new construction. As the team went around, we found the remains of an old temple within the temple complex and ruins of old buildings. We also found a small room at the interior which was around 1000 years’ old. It was probably in this temple that Guru Nanak and Srimant Shankar Dev would have met. It is also probable that this being the only temple in King Suhang Mung’s time, even the king would have come to the place and held discussions with the two religious luminaries as mentioned by Gyani Gian Singh.

As the team went around we found a monument on which the sign board depicted Loonya Siddh. The researcher remembered of Loonia Siddh who according to Giani Gian Singh had met Guru Nanak, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Guru Gobind Singh.
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Monument of Loonia Siddh at Nazira
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The temple and the samadh of Loonia Siddh

By the time the head priest of the temple also appeared. He told us that the interior is ancient while the outer buildings have been constructed later. He told Loonia to be a saint who meditated and looked after the temple complex around 500 years before.

Loonia Siddh

The monument (samadh) of Loonia Siddh exists in Nazira within the periphery of an old temple by the side of Dikhow river. As per the information given by S. Harpal Singh and all present there, Guru Nanak had visited Nazira and held discussions with Srimant Sankar Dev in the temple on the river Dikhow opposite Gaushala. While searching for the history of Guru Nanak’s visit to the place and Loonia Siddh’s connection with it, the researcher came across lot of evidence. Visit of Guru Nanak to Nazira is recorded in Twareekh Guru Khalsa: “After visiting Ajmeri Ganj, Karim Ganj, Sylleht etc. of Assam he reached Ghargaon a city which was then the capital and was renamed as Nazira after it was included in Sibsagar district. Meeting the King Sagar Sain and converting him from idol worship (worship of Kamakhaya) to Naam worship he went to an island between Brahmaputra and Barni rivers. [28] Giani Lal Singh Sangrur also mentions of Guru Nanak’s visit to Ghargaon. [29]

‘At Dacca in Bengal …the power of deliverance of Guru Nanak was soon acknowledged around. Smal Nath, Rewa dass, Chander Nath, Narain Dass, Sheikh Ahmed, Nathe Shah, Loonia Siddh etc the saints well known in the area came for discussions with Baba. They showed their numerous talents but finally were swayed by the flow of Gurbani. Seeing no other way out they all became followers of Baba.”[28]

Dr Surinder Singh Kohli gives an account of Loonia Siddh having met Guru Nanak at Dacca. He wrote, “The prominent among the saints who met the Guru were Loonia Siddha, Samal Nath, Rewa Das, Narain Das, Chandan Das and Shiekh Ahmed. They were highly impressed by Guru’s teachings.” [30] Earlier while visiting Burhanpur, this researcher had visited the Gurdwara on the other bank of river Tapti in memory of Guru Gobind Singh’s visit to Loonia Siddh and having meals with him. He found the record of this visit in Guru Kian Sakhian [31] as the ‘Story of visit of Guru Gobind Singh to the place of Loonia Siddh.’

‘A saint of very old age used to stay on other side of river Tapti (near Burhanpur in Madhya Pradesh). Having heard the arrival of Guru (the Tenth Guru) he walked with the help of stick to meet the Guru. He had earlier visited the Guru at Patna while the Guru was in his infancy. Madho Das Bairagi stayed with him for three years after he had left the complex of Augadh Nath Yogi (in Nasik) on his demise. This old man was called Loonia Siddh. He bowed in front of Satguru (Guru Gobind Singh) who caught him from his arm and got him seated along with him and enquired about his well being. They discussed spirituality. Baba Loonia said, “Lord! Please visit my place and purify it”. Guruji laughed and said, “O saint! Where ever great men like you are settled, the place is purified”. Loonia Siddh again requested, “Lord! That is your place as well. Please have whatever simple food I can offer. It will give me peace.” Satigur said, “Siddh Ji! I will be at your

place tomorrow morning and will have food with you.” Saying this, the Guru went to see him off up to the River bank. Next day, Satigur along with Bhai Daya Singh and other Sikhs crossed the river and went to the place of Loonia Siddh. Saint Loonia looked after Guruji caringly. Having had food at his place, the Guru returned to Burhanpur”.

Bhai Vir Singh mentioned this in Sri Kalgidhar Chamtkar [32] and in Sri Dasam Guru Chamtkar [33]. The description of event and the place of his offering of meal to Sri Guru Gobind Singh is nearly the same but the name of Siddh Loonia is given as Yogi Jeevan Das. In Kalgidhar Chamtkar [32], Yogi Jeevan Das gives the details of meeting Guru Tegh Bahadur earlier when requested by Guru Gobind Singh. He said that Guru Tegh Bahadur met him at Dhubri on the bank of Brahmaputra River. “I am the son of rich man who became a mendicant having fell in love with God. I have been roaming from place to place. I practiced Hath Yoga. I read a lot. But this did not give me peace. While roaming, I reached Dacca and met Guru’s Sikh Bulaki Das. He was waiting for Guru Tegh Bahadur with eagerness. He prepared a spacious house and high seat for him. His mother prepared a dress for Guru by spinning and weaving it herself with the hope that he will come and she will offer the dress to the Guru. In their company, I left Hath Yog and got in to meditation. I also developed eagerness to meet the Guru. They kept waiting for Him at Dacca. I guessed that the Guru will first reach Dhubri. Being impatient to meet the Guru, I reached there. Guruji came to Dacca first and redeemed his dedicated Sikhs Bulaki Das and his old mother. He also prayed about me to the Guru. I met the Guru at Dhubri and watched the Guru in the waves of Brahmaputra as I am watching you in the waters of River Tapti. The Guru blessed me with Nam Daan. My intellect was dull, mind dirty and body hard which has now changed by your reviving name in it again. I remained with Guru Tegh Bahadur in Assam till he was there and enjoyed his presence. Before leaving Assam he ordered me to move to South and do meditation in a lonely place. I enquired from the Guru as to why he was sending me to the South while he himself was going to North. The Guruji said, “Do not worry I will meet you there in a different life.” Now you have fulfilled the promise. “When did you meet him in Assam?” Guru Gobind Singh asked the Siddh. I met him in Samwat 1723 (1666 AD). It was the time when news of your birth reached Dhubri. I was present when this news was greeted with a volley of gun fire and beating of drums. All the Sikhs and army of Raja Ram Singh celebrated the event.”

Loonia Siddh might have moved to this place, probably close home and looked after the place of Guru’s visit in his last days. This researcher visited the place on Tapti in Burhanpur where Loonia Siddh offered food to Guru Gobind Singh and also visited the place at Dhubri where he met Guru Tegh Bahadur and the news of Guru Gobind Singh’s birth was received and celebrated. He recently visited the place near Nazira where Loonia Siddh was laid to rest.
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Dikhow River

There are also other monuments of the Ahom Kingdom. Siu Hung Mong (Dihingia Raja) ruled the kingdom from 1497-1539 during the time of visit of Guru Nanak. The Gargaon Palace (Kareng Ghar) started in his time was completed in 1540 when Ahom King Suklengmung (1539-1552) and it is likely that the construction of this palace might have been in progress during Guru Nanak’s time.

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Tejwant Singh and the author at Gargaon Palace

To find evidence of Guru Nanak to Sibsagar the team moved further. At Shibsagar Joysagar tank and temples were constructed by Ahom King Rudra Singha in 1697 in 318 acres in memory of his mother Sati Joymati. Rudrasagar Dole: the Shiv Temple was constructed by Ahom King Lakshmi Singha on the bank of Rudrasagar tank, known as Napukhuri. Athalsar tank next to it was dug in the reign of Joydhawaj Singha. Gaurishankar Temple and Tank were constructed in 1723, hence these could not be related to Guru Nanak.

The capital of the Ahom Kings was moved from Gargaon to Sibsagar only in 1699. This new place was made of the bricks and indigenous type of cement under the direction of King Rajeshwar Singha (1751-1769) into 7 storied, establishing it as permanent capital and military station of Ahom kings.
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Capital of Ahom kings at Sibsagar Discussion with local experts
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At Shivadole in Sibasagar: Manmeet Singh, Harpal Singh and the author

The local experts told us that capital in Sibsagar and all the complexes were shifted in around 1540 or even much after that time hence Guru Nanak’s visit to Sibsagar does not appear to have happened. They were however unanimous that Guru Nanak’s meeting Srimant Sankar Dev and king of Ahom at Gargaon-Nazira is a clear possibility. Gargaon-Guru Nanak visited the island at the confluence of Brahmputra and Branadi river. According to Twareekh Khalsa, Part I (p. 18) Gyani Gian Singh: Ghargaon name shahar de raje Sagar sain (SuhangMung) nun hor lokan samet jo kewal Kumakhia Devi de hi daass bane rahe se sacha mat dridake bishambher Des jo Brahmputra te barni nadi de vichkare hai ja pahunche.[36]. It is most likely that he visited Dhuwahat now known as Majuli along with Srimanat Sankar Deb to his place. Gyani Gian Singh writes: In the months of Chet-Vaisakh water in rivers, rivulets and springs spreads more than in Savan month water looks everywhere. Mardana got afraid understanding it to overflowing of sea but the Guru pacified him. (Chet-Vaisakh ivch othai savan nallon vadh pani nadian, nalian, sominan da vithar ke jal hi jal ho janda hai. Mardane ne samundar uchhlia samjh ke dar mania par Guru ji ne dheeraj dita. (p. 118)) [36] This indicates only towards majhuli island which is inside two divisions of the Brahmputra and water in the two months spreads so much so that it appears to be a sea.

From the island, Guru Nanak came towards Dhanasri River area and reached Golaghat on the bank of river Dhanasri. A Gurudwara at Golaghat commemorates Guru's visit to the place. From Golaghat, Guru Nanak entered Nagaland. In this area, there is a tribe which calls themselves as Nanak tribe'. They are very free minded and pay no taxes to the kin"From Nagaland, Guru Nanak visited Imphal, Silchar, Brahampur, Sonpur, Bishanpur, Ajmeri Ganj, Karimganj and Ghorgaon enroute to Sylhet”.

While at Cachar, Guru Nanak paid a visit to a Budhist Sangharam Monastry at Bhuvan Hill about 32 KM from the town of Silchar, (the centre of Cachar District). The Chief controller of that Temple, when heard about the effectiveness of the Guru's sermons, was full of jealousy. With a drawn sword in hand in order to kill Guru Nanak he rushed to the place where Guru Nanak was sitting. Guru uttered a Hymn in the vernacular of the head priest.

'Whomsoever God gives protection, nobody can kill him. Nanak says, one who envies a saint of God, he goes to hell'.

'On hearing this, the Head Priest could not strike the blow, and his mind was instantly changed from the evil design. He humbly asked for forgiveness which was granted by Guru Nanak. He was converted and he became follower of the Guru. There was a small place called Nanak Ghar, near the place but there was no temple. Only an enclosure of trees existed. There was one Mahatma looking after the place.'[8]

From Silchar Guru Nanak proceeded to Sylhet (Bangladesh) via Brahampur, Sonpur, Bishanpur, Ajmeriganj, Karimganj, Ghoragaon and Sylhet. From Sylhet, the Guru proceeded to Mymensingh and then to Chittagonj.

Conclusion

Guru Nanak visited Assam most probably in 1516-1517 AD. He entered Assam from Kamroop at Dhubri. Having visited Dhubri, kamroop, Goalpara, Gwahati Kamakhya and Hajo, he went to the capital of Ahom kingdom Gargaon/ Nazira. At Nazira he held discussions with Srimanata Sankardev and also met the king Suhungmung who was impressed by him. From Nazira, he proceeded most probably to Majhuli where Srimanta Sankar Deb lived and stayed with him for sometime. From there he went to golaghat, Kohima and other parts of Nagaland and through Meghalaya reached Bangladesh.

References

[1] Barbaruah Hiteswar Ahomar-Din or A History of Assam under the Ahoms 1981 p. 299

[2] Bhuyan Dr. S.K. Tunkhungia Buranji or A History of Assam (1681–1826) 1968 p. 199.

[3] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr 1997, Travels of Guru Nanak, Punjab University Chandigarh 3rd edition.

[4] Bhai Vir Singh, Jan 2006,Puratan Janamsakhi, Bhai Vir Singh Sahit Sadan New Delhi.

[5] Neog, M, 1980, Early History of the Vaisnava Faith and Movement in Assam, Delhi: Motilal Banarasi Dass, pp. 53-54

[6] Op Cit

[7] Gate E A, 1926,, A History of Assam, p.231

[8] Surinder Singh Kohli Dr, Travels of Guru Nanak, p.121

[9]Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa originally of 1891 AD later published by Bhasha Vibhag Punjab, Patiala, p.117-118

[10] Arjan Singh Mann, Dr 1959, Guru Tegh Bahadur and Assam Pradesh, Sikh Publishing House, New Delhi, 1st Edition, pp.92-94.

[11] Op cit

[12] Surinder Singh Kohli,Travels of Guru Nanak, p 49-50.

[13] Ibid p. 50

[14]Tarlochan Singh Dr, Jeevan Chrit Guru Nanak dev Ji, pp p. 164-166

[15] Op Cit p. 172-173

[16] Dalvinder Singh Grewal Dr, May 2002, Amazing Travels of Guru Nanak, SGPC, Sri Amritsar, 196-205, 213

[17] Op cit, p. pp.209-214

[18] Op cit, p. 216

[19] Major Gurmukh Singh, Sept 1995, Historical Sikh Shrines, Singh Bros, Amritsar, p.68,

[20] Kahn Singh Nabha, Mahankosh, p.156

[21] Gyani Gian Singh, 2002 (reprint), Gurdham Sangreh, Dharam Parchar Committee, Sri Amritsar

[22] Gyani Gurdit Singh (edited), May 2005, Gurdham Didar, Dharam Parchar Committee Sri Amritsar

[23]Puratan Janamsakhi edited by Shamsher Singh Ashok

[24] Antrobus H.A 1957, The History of The Assam Company (1839-1953),.; Privately printed by T.A. Constable Ltd, Edinburgh.

[25] Rajkumar Sarbananda, 2000, Etihase Suaura Chashata Bacharor, Page 272,First Edition December,ISBN-81-7339-308-7 Banalata, New Bazar Dibrugarh-1

[26] Op cit

[27] Antrobus H.A., 1957

[28] Census of India 2001: data from the 2001 census including cities, villages and towns (provisional.”Census

Commission of India.Archieved from the original on 2004-06-16.Retrieved 2008-11-01.

[29]Gyani Gian Singh, Twareekh Guru Khalsa originally of 1891 AD later published by Bhasha Vibhag Punjab, Patiala, p.118

[30] Gyiani Lal Singh Sangrur, 1940, Guru Khalsa Twareekh, Ludhiana, Lahore Book Shop, 3rd edition 1955, p. 70

[31] Surinder Singh Kohli, Dr., 1977, Travels of Guru Nanak, 3rd edition, Punjab University, Chandigarh, p.40

[32] Sarup Singh Koshish, 1986, Guru Kian Sakhian edited by Piara Singh Padam and Gyani Garja Singh and published by Kalam Mandir Patiala (p. 185)

[33] Bhai Vir Singh , 2004, pp. Sri Kalgidhar Chamtkar, Bhai Vir Singh Sahit Sadan, New Delhi, 335-341

[34] Bhai Vir Singh, July 2009, Sri Dasam Guru Chamtkar, Bhai Chatar Singh Jiwan Singh, Sri Amritsar, pp.597-598

[35] Rajkumar Sarbananda, 2000, Etihase Suaura Chashata Bacharor, Page 272,First Edition, December, ISBN-81-7339-308-7 Banalata, New Bazar Dibrugarh-1

[36] Gyani Gian Singh Twareekh Khalsa, Part I, p. 118.
 

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