Dr Dalvinder Singh Grewal Dalv email@example.com 919815366726 Fourth Journey of Guru Nanak through Punjab Guru Nanak started from Kartarpur in Punjab and visited Sind and Baluchistan; the states of present Pakistan earlier part of undivided India. The route of travel of Guru Nanak within the present Pakistan includes Saharanpur, Talwandi, Sheikhupur, Ktas Teerath, Dadan Khan, Rohtas, Bal Gudain, Jalalpur, Haranpur, Nar Singh Fuhar, Dhekdi Pattan, across Attok River, Kale Bagh, Khangarh, Peejhu, Gadag, Dera Ismail Khan, Mankera, Sangar, Manger, Deredin Pnah, Peeradal, Dera Gazi Khan (Sakhi Sarvar), Roh Des, Nagaha, Fazalpur, Meerapur, Naushehra, Rajanpur, Seetpur, Mithankot, Suhana, Sakhar, Bhakhar, Rodi, Shikarpur, Rukan, Larkana, Halani, Bulani, Ranipur, Gamat, Moragh, Jhera, Amarkot, Tanda, Alla Yar khan, Mataari, Hyderabad, Fuleli, Udyare Lal, Hyderabad, Kotli, Thatha, Hinglaj and Karachi before he boarded the ship for Saudi Arabia. Starting from Talwandi Guru Nanak went to Madar Desh Saharanpur, Sheikhupura andSharqpur Sharif. It is a city and Tehsilheadquarters of Sharaqpur Tehsil of Sheikhupura Districtin Punjab province of Pakistan. It is located at 31°27′48″N 74°6′0″E.  He gave the message of Truth, truthful living, singularity and universality of God and divine name; and attended Katas Teerath Baisakhi fair of 1576 Bikrami (1519 AD).  Gurdwara Phalli Patshahi, Katas, Distt Chakwal At Katas he attended the Vaisakhi fair. This place came to be known as Nanak Niwas. It was the abode of contemplation for larger groups of mystics, ascetics and Yogis.Katas is a very sacred place for the Hindus and Sikhs alike. The temple complex is situated in Katas village near Choa Sidanshah in the Chakwal district of Punjab in Pakistan. The site houses the Satgraha, a group of seven ancient temples, remains of a Buddhist Stupa, a few medieval temples, havelis and some recently constructed temples, scattered around a pond considered holy by Hindus.  It also holds a Gurdwara commemorating Guru Nanak’s visit. 1. Katasraj temple - Photo by Belgar, Joseph David, 1875 2. General view of Katas village with old temples in foreground, 1875; Many legends are associated with the temples. The temple complex is believed to date back to the Mahabharata era. The five Pandava brothers, heroes of the Sanskrit epic the Mahabharata, stayed here for four of the 13 years they spent in exile. The lake in the complex is believed to be filled with Shiva’s tears thus have magical powers and is supposed to be where Yudhishtra defeated the Yaksha with his wisdom, bringing his brothers back to life. Another legend involves the death of Shiva's wife Sati. The story goes that when she died he cried so much and for so long that his tears created two holy ponds - one at Pushkara in Ajmer (India) and the other at Ketaksha (Pakistan), which literally means "raining eyes" in Sanskrit. It is from this name that the word Ketas is derived. It is also mentioned that Katas and Pushkar are considered to be the two eyes of the earth where the depth of the water is beyond any measure. Yet another version of the Shiva legend involves the death of Shiva's horse Katas instead of that of Sati his consort. Some legends also state that very first Shiva Ling (Shiva-Ling) was in Kattas. Krishna himself laid the foundation of this temple and established his hand made Shivling in it. The smaller temples, built in pairs around the larger central temple, were built around 900 years or so ago, although the earliest of them dates back to the latter half of the 6th century AD.Pars Nath Jogi breathed his last here. The pilgrims bathe in the sacred pool and seek forgiveness. The Ramachamdra Mandir is situated to the east of the Hari Singh Haveli and is closed from all sides except for an entrance on the east. The Hanuman Mandir is on the western extreme of a high rectangular enclosure with entrances on the south and the north. In the fair there were numerous mystics, ascetics, yogis and mendicants. Finding them following meaningless rituals Guru Nanak addressed them through a melodious hymn:  ‘The self-willed Manmukh (mindward), in a fit of passion, abandons his home, and is ruined; then, he spies on the homes of others. He neglects his household duties. Not finding the True Guru, he is caught in the whirlpool of evil-mindedness. Wandering in foreign lands and reading scriptures, he grows weary, and his thirsty desires only increase. His perishable body does not remember the Word Divine; he only fills his belly like a beast. This is how the Sanyasi, the renunciate adopt the way of life. Through the Word Divine, he should enshrine love for the One Lord. Imbued with God’s Name, he should remain satisfied and fulfilled. A renunciate dyes his robes with saffron dye; wearing these robes, he goes out begging. Tearing his robes, he makes a patched coat, and puts the money in his wallet. From house to house he goes begging, and tries to teach the world; but his mind is blind, this way he loses his honor. He is deluded by doubt, and does not remember the Word Divine. He thus loses his life in the gamble. Without the Guru, the fire within is not quenched; and outside, the fire still burns. Without serving the Guru, there is no devotional worship. How can anyone, by himself, know the Lord? Slandering others, one lives in hell; within him is hazy darkness. Wandering to the eighty-eight sacred shrines of pilgrimage, he is ruined. How can the filth of sin be washed away? A Sanyasi sifts through the dust, and applies ashes to his body, but he is searching for the path of Maya’s wealth. Inwardly and outwardly, he does not know the One Lord; if someone tells him the Truth, he grows angry. He reads the scriptures, but tells lies; such is the intellect of one who has no guru. Without chanting the Divine Name, how can he find peace? Without the Name, how can he look good? Some sanyasis shave their heads, some keep their hair in matted tangles; some keep it in braids, while some keep silent, filled with egotistical pride. Their minds waver and wander in ten directions, without loving devotion and enlightenment of the soul. Driven mad by Maya, they abandon the Ambrosial Nectar and drink the deadly poison. Without understanding the Lord’s Command (hukam), past actions cannot be erased; hence they become beasts. A Yogi, with bowl in hand, wearing his patched coat, great desires well up in his mind. Abandoning his own wife, he is engrossed in sexual desire; his thoughts are on the wives of others. He teaches and preaches, but does not contemplate the Divine Name; he is bought and sold on the street. With poison within, he pretends to be free of doubt; he is ruined and humiliated by the Messenger of Death. He alone is a Sanyasi, who serves the True Guru, and removes his self-conceit from within. He does not ask for clothes or food; without asking, he accepts whatever he receives. He does not speak empty words; he gathers the wealth of tolerance and burns away his anger with the Divine Name. Blessed is such a householder, Sanyasi and Yogi, who focuses his consciousness on the Lord’s feet. Amidst hope, the Sanyasi remains unmoved by hope; he remains lovingly focused on the One Lord. He drinks in the sublime essence of the Lord, and so finds peace and tranquility; in the home of his own being, he remains absorbed in the deep trance of meditation. His mind does not waver; as the true follower of his Guru, he understands. He restrains it from wandering out. Following the Guru’s Teachings, he does self introspection and obtains the wealth of the Divine Name. Brahma, Vishnu and Shiva are exalted, imbued with contemplative meditation on the Divine Name. The sources of creation, speech, the heavens and the underworld, all beings and creatures, are infused with God’s Light. All comforts and liberation are found in the True Name and the vibrations of the Guru’s hymns; I have enshrined the True Name within my heart. Without the Divine Name, no one is saved: Only with the Truth, one removes the illusion and delusion and crosses over to his True destination’. (SGGS, pp. 1012-1013) Gurdwara Katas Chakwal Pakistan The scintillating hymn impregnated with deep spiritual meanings relating to the God, the Truth, Divine Name and true mediation impressed all the yogis, sanyasis, siddhas and mendicants present and they became Guru Nanak’s followers. Guru Nanak stopped them from wearing absurd dresses, begging and wandering around aimlessly and forbade worshipping graves, burial places, Hanuman, Bhairon, Shani etc. He directed them to get attached to The True Universal God through the Divine Name. They all were pleased at the guidance given by the Guru.  A Gurdwara commemorated his memory which now remains unmaintained because of non presence of a granthi, caretaker or preacher. In the absence of proper markings or sign boards it is difficult to separate one place from the other. Prehistoric tools and weapons such as axes and knives made of granite, and artifacts like terracotta bangles and pottery have been unearthed at the Katasraj site. The latter have been found to be similar to those excavated in Harappa and are yet to be dated.  A large number of bones of the limbs and vertebrae of giant animals resembling the extinct mammoth and dinosaur have been found at some sites. “An entire range of low mountains in the area appears to be fossilized, revealing to the naked eye layer upon layer of a variety of plants and soils,” says one writer.  The Katasraj temples are located 40 kilometers from Chakwal District. It takes a little effort to reach Katasraj by road - one has to go off the M2 motorway-(Islamabad-Lahore) at the Kallar Kahar interchange, then follow the road to Choa Saidan Shah for 24 km and after passing the cement factory the road passes through the temple complex, with the major temple complex and the pond on the right. A very historic Village is also located nearby known a Dulmial. It is located on a hill six kilometers from Choa Saidan Shah of Chakwal district.Local Muslims even accompany pilgrims to next town Choa Saidan Shah from where the Katas Hindu and Sikh pilgrims proceed further to India. Even today groups of Hindu pilgrims come from India to visit it regularly to worship. Though the relationship of Hindus and Sikhs with local Muslim population was very good, yet fearing outside attacks, the temple complex and the Gurdwara were abandoned by Hindus and Sikhs when they migrated to East Punjab in 1947 and no one stayed back. For decades the temple complex was in bad state. The holy pond was littered with garbage, while the murals inside the temples disappeared due to the ravages of time and the neglect of the authorities. In 2006-07, Pakistan decided to place idols of Hindu gods in the seven temples and restore them to their original state to attract visitors.  The budget allocated for the project was Rs. 51.06 million. The temple was visited by India's former deputy prime minister Lal Krishna Advani in 2005.  The government decided to import idols of Hindu gods from various monuments in India to Pakistan for the restoration. A three-member archaeological team visited India, Sri Lanka and Nepal to collect idols of Hindu gods. Building of Gurdwara also needs to be rejuvenated. The Pakistan Government is considering nominating the temple complex for World heritage site status. In 2007, it also proposed to restore the temple complex.  The temple pond has been found in 2012 to be drying up due to heavy use of ground water for industrial purposes.  Dadan Khan: From Katas Teerath Guru Nanak went to Dadan Khan . At the time a group was going to Mecca for Hajj. Mardana requested that he be permitted to go to Mecca for Hajj. Guru Nanak told him to have patience and not to be too anxious to go to Mecca immediately. He would be helped by the Guru by taking him to Mecca soon. Visiting various places within the country and outside the country is very beneficial for the fakirs. Saying this Guru Nanak moved to the direction in which the Hajjis were going. Gurdwara Pehli Patshahi at Bal Gudain, Distt Jhelum The shrine is located on a hill about 24 kilometers west of Jhelum City. The place is also called Tila Jogian. It is the mound of kanphata Yogis. When Guru Nanak reached there the local saint Bal Gudain met him with warmth. They both held discussions at the place.  He heard the hymns of Guru Nanak and became his devotee. The footprints of the Guru, which were preserved in stone at this place, have eroded now. A small darbar is there. There is a beautiful tank beside it. Nanga Sadhus had been the priests. It was here that Ranjha, the main character of Punjabi Folk story Heer Ranjha, got his ears pierced from Bal Nath Yogi and took Yog. 15 ghumaon of forest land is attached to the shrine. The place can be reached by personal transport from Jhelum or Dina without which it is difficult to return within a day. Dina is a Railway Station on Lahore-Peshawar railway line. Dina is also a bus stop on the GT road. The weather and the view on top of the hill are fascinating for the visitor. The memory of this spell binding panorama and beauty of this shrine remains with the visitor forever. , . Gurdwara Chowa Sahib at Rohtas Distt Jhelum While travelling towards Mecca Guru Nanak reached Rohtas. He arrived here from Tila Jogian. Tilla Jogian is 3 kos from Rohtas.  After a long journey by foot in the summer Mardana felt too thirsty. He requested Guru Nanak, “Lord, in this area water is a rare commodity. Humans, animals and birds all are affected by the scarcity.” Guru Nanak dug up a place and lo! There appeared a spring of cool, clean and fresh water and small rivulets started running from it.  Water spring is called "Chowa" hence this place got the name ‘Chowa Sahib’. Even today the residents of the fort use the water of this spring. Later Slier Shah built a magnificent fort. The sacred site of Gurdwara Chowa Sahib showing its splendour outside Kabuli Darwaza (gate) of Rohtas fort is on the bank of River Ghan. Making use of the water of the spring Sher Shah Suri built the fort in 1597 after he removed Humayun from this territory and with an aim to stop attacks from Durranis he staged his army at the camp. The spring could not be brought in to the complex of the fort despite of three attempts as it sprang out of the fort every time. Now it is outside the western gate of the fort. Sardar Charat Singh made a concrete tank and a room where Sri Guru Granth Sahib was established. He allotted one village as jagir which however was disaffiliated by the British.  The Gurdwara was constructed outside Kabuli gate. The present building was constructed in 1834 on the orders of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. It is a beautiful building with River Ghan on one side and the fort on the other with forest around the remaining sides. The access to the building is from inside the fort. The shrine presents fascinating natural beauty surrounded by Ghan Nadi, fort, large trees and under growth.  Fort Rohtas is a famous historical place in Jhelum district. To reach the fort one has to travel by buses made out of army trucks. It is 6 kilometers from Dina. Maharaja Ranjit Singh assigned 27 ghumaon of land and Rs 260 to it. Fair is held on the 15th of Katak Sudi.  Through Bal Gudain, Rohtas, Jalalpur, Haranpur etc., Guru Nanak visited villages of Dhanni Pothohar and redeemed many.  He then reached the bank of Soine lake, which like Dal lake is spread in 4 kos. The area around is known as Soine on the name of the lake. Horses of this place are very famous. It has also the mines of special stones then used in firing the rifles. Guru Nanak met a Siddh at the bank of Soin who offered fruits of various countries, showed many magic tricks. The place of Siddh is considered a venerated place.  Moving out of this place he went to Nar Singh Fuhar. Nar Singh Bhagwan entered into this hill after killing Harinkashyap. The place of this entry is known as Nar Singh Fuhar. It is also called Bial locally. Water from a spring from this hill goes to Moosa Khel. It is said that any wood or bone once thrown into this water become a stone. Water is not salty. Both Hindus and Muslims worship this place. Guru Nanak gave the message of Divine Name to the priest of the temple and Muslim caretaker. From there Guru Nanak crossed River Sind at the crossing of Dhokdi and went through Kale Bagh, Khangarh, Peejhoo, gave the message of One universal God and the Divine Name to the people of Gadag, Fatehkhan etc. and entered Dera Ismail Khan area.  References  "Top Tourist spots in Pakistan", photos: timesofindia.com. 21 May 2012. Retrieved 22 May 2012.  Old ruined temple at Katas, Jhelum DistrictBritish Library  Giani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, part 1, pp.233-234. [4 Gurudwara Pehli Patshahi , Katas, Distt Chakwal - Gurudwaras in Pakistan - Gateway to Sikhism  "A CBM For The Lord", Outlook (India), 27 June 2005.  Playing peacemaker: Advani, Visiting the Katas Raj temple complex near LahoreFrontline, Volume 22 - Issue 13, Jun 18 - Jul 01, 2005.  "Pak sends message, fixes temple". 2007-03-25,. Retrieved 2007-03-2. "Drying up of Katas Raj temple pond has Pak Hindus worried", Rediff News (India), 24 April 2012 Giani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, part 1, pp. 234. Gurudwara Pehli Patshahi at Bal Gondai, Distt Jhelum - Gurudwaras in Pakistan - Gateway to Sikhism [11Ibid 12]Giani Gian Singh, Twareekh Khalsa, Guru 1, part 1, p. 235.